Live View Shooting
Page five is going to be dealing with things dealing with live view shooting. When you hit the live view button on the back of the camera, we can disable it. Some people hit it accidentally and they never want to use it, so you could turn it off here. I think it's a very handy feature for most people to use from time to time. We talked before about the AF method. If this seems familiar, it's because when we were in live view, we could turn this on and off with our quick menu button. That would give us a menu of many of the different options and we could choose the different focusing modes. The face and subject tracking, I think is very good, but for having very precise control over what you're focusing on, I prefer that small box of focusing for basic shooting in this mode. There is a touch shutter, where you can use the screen on the back of the camera to shoot photos. Let me go ahead and do a little demo here on this. I'm gonna go ahead and turn my camera on in the live view mode and...
let's zoom in a little bit over here, and I think I need a prop on this so I'm gonna move this and I'm actually gonna grab one of these cameras over here, because I want something in the foreground as well as something in the background. Let's go with a little wider angle. Here we have foreground/background, and so I can press down here to focus. Right now I have it set to focus and shoot. I'm gonna go ahead and I'm gonna change this focusing system here. I don't want the subject tracking, I just want to choose a single point. Let me change, I want to get some more information right here. Right now, I am focusing and shooting, but maybe I only want to focus, and so that is controlled right down here. There is a touch shutter that I have disabled, and so now, I can focus and now I can decide when I want to shoot a photo. You can either focus and shoot or just focus. That can be turned on and off with the touchscreen, or it can be turned on in the menu system. There is a number of touch features, we're not going into all of them, but there's a lot of them that are pretty obvious onscreen, if you just kinda keep your eyes peeled for those things. It can be controlled here or on the back of the camera. Grid display. For compositional reasons, for lining up the horizon, in the back screen of the camera, we're gonna see this about three different times because it's available in different areas, this is just on the back of the camera when you're composing things. I do like working with a number of the different grids, but normally I like to have my images clutter free. By default, I leave things turned off, I'll go in and turn them on when they're necessary. The aspect ratio. The camera's sensor is a three by two aspect ratio, and if you want to shoot with a different ratio, you can and you will see it framed up in the back of the camera. This can be really handy if you know you need a final square, this allows you to see it in camera what that final image is going to look like. Normally, you'd leave it on three by two because that's what the sensor is in itself. Exposure simulation. I have found it very helpful to leave this on "enable", which means, when you look at the back of the camera, it's trying to give you it's best guess as to what the final picture is gonna look like. It's been accurate enough that I have been basing my exposures on what I see on the back of the camera for a large number of my photos. One area where this is terrible and doesn't work, is if you are in the studio or you're using flash photography, because the lighting situation is gonna look really dark and it only gets bright when the flash fires. If you're working in the studio, you want to turn this "disable", but if you are judging it for brightness and you're using it kind of as an exposure guideline, like does this look too light or too dark, then I would leave it on "enable". There is also one where you can have it only turned on when you press the depth of field button, which can be very handy for someone who typically wants to leave it off, but wants to have access to turning it on and off pretty quickly. Final page in the shooting menu, this one's a little bit more complicated, but when you are in the live view mode, how does that first shutter work? For mode one, it uses an electronic first shutter curtain, which means there is no vibrations when you are shooting, which is fantastic for anyone working from a tripod, especially like an architectural photographer, and very much so for a macro photographer, where any sort of vibration, even the shutter moving, can be a major problem. One of the problems with mode one is that the flash does not fire, so if you're working in the studio with flash photography, you're gonna probably want to set it onto "disable". Mode one is gonna be good for most people in this case. How long does the metering stay active? Eight seconds is fine, adjust to your needs.
AFTER THIS CLASS YOU’LL BE ABLE TO:
- Leverage the new customized viewfinder and quick menu options for superior customization
- Use and understand the new 4K video recording with frame grab and Dual Pixel CMOS AF
- Use Wi-Fi with NFC and GPS for remote operation and location tagging
- Understand Canon camera features that cross over to several Canon EOS models
- Control the camera from the biggest tools to the smallest details
ABOUT JOHN’S CLASS:
The Canon® EOS 5D Mark IV is a workhorse Canon camera, hauling features from the 30-megapixel full-frame sensor to the 4K video and 7 fps burst speed. But the 5D Mark IV’s long list of features is just money wasted if you don’t actually know how to find them and put them to use. Skip the floundering through menus and join photographer John Greengo exploring the camera’s many features, from customizing the camera to understanding dual-pixel autofocus.
This class is designed for the photographers using the Canon EOS 5D Mark IV, from those just pulling it out of the box to photographers that just haven’t found all the camera’s features yet. The class can also serve as an in-depth look if you’re not yet sure if the EOS 5D Mark IV is the best Canon camera for you.
The Canon EOS 5D Mark IV is considered one of the best Canon cameras on the market -- but it's no Canon Powershot, which means a big learning curve. The latest updates bring tools that may be unfamiliar even for photographers that previously used an older Canon camera, with several firsts across the entire 5D series. The dual-pixel autofocus allows for small focus adjustments after the fact -- but only if you shoot with the right image format and work with the right software. The 5D Mark IV is the first Canon digital camera to incorporate FlexiZone Multi autofocus, a new setting inside the powerful updated dual pixel CMOS AF system. The updated viewfinder has new warning signals and custom controls. And of course, there’s that new 4K shooting.
This Canon camera class covers the camera from understanding the controls to customizing the menu.
What's packed in this Canon camera Fast Start? Learn the vital information in less time than it takes to analyze the menu -- and have more fun doing it too.
WHO THIS CLASS IS FOR:
Individuals who own or are considering purchasing the Canon EOS 5D Mark IV
ABOUT YOUR INSTRUCTOR:
John Greengo has led more than 50 classes covering the in-depth features of several different DSLR camera models and mirrorless options, including Fast Starts for Canon, Nikon, Sony, Fujifilm, and Panasonic. The award-winning photographer is one of the most celebrated CreativeLive instructors, leading classes covering a myriad of topics, including the previous Mark II and Mark III 5D cameras. Greengo has used the 5D series since the first 5D. He's led photographers through the ins and outs of advanced options like the EOS 80D and EOS 7D Mark II to entry-level Canon Rebel cameras like the Rebel T6i and T6.
Canon EOS 5D Mark IV