Shooting with Pano Apps
Let's do a couple of, um, Panorama abs I mentioned already. Photo sent. So here, I'm gonna load up Photosynth, and I'm gonna come up here and it says tap to start. It's actually cancel and go into our settings for photo sent Now on our news feed, there is think here. Manual capture, auto capture. There is our setting. So the one thing that I would recommend is this exposure lock in the center here, and one auto saved a camera roll. Why not that exposure lock you may want to have on It depends upon what you're doing. Like I said, wherever you first shoot in this case, that'll set its exposure. And then as you move around the scene, all the spoke explosions are gonna match. That could be a challenge of something like a sunset. The problem is, since this is shooting individual shots, not a consistent Siris of shots for doing a pano, Whereas the IPhones default app can change that exposure while it's shooting in an app that shoots individual shots. Then it says Okay, this is a completely d...
ifferent exposure than this. Somehow I got a blend these over and it can get a little bit carried away, so I would recommend for the default that you can set it Is that exposure lock on here inside the settings. And that way, whatever you start off with, they will be sure to match. Your entire scene will have one basic exposure. But anyway, you gonna tap it and you're gonna notice you can do that same trick of hold this up in the upper right hand corner. And when that little circle dot comes over to 50% it automatically shoots the picture so you don't have to actually press the shutter. And this also includes when you come up here and when it hits these corners, it automatically takes the shot. Even when you're looking down and again in a very close up scenario, like we're like we have right now, um, rotating around the nodal point, setting up top here is going to be really important because for you to synchronize these things that are this close, like the computer and my notes and everything else that's going to be very difficult if you are rotating at your torso. So this idea of rotating around a particular nodal point specifically where your lenses is gonna be really important, especially for applications that shoot shot, shot, shot shot. OK, but that is Photosynth and, um done. And we would find that sitting waiting for us on our desktop. Another one is a 3 60 Pano. This is a little bit higher resolution. It works very similar to what we were just looking at here and in this case will do start and we'll do that same thing and it's doing the same thing. It's higher resolution. I found that it doesn't stitch quite as well as Photosynth, but it's higher resolution and has cuter sound effects and also a multi panelled situation here. But there is an example. You see that? How I'm getting two different ghosts and I was doing really quick. Nothing is cautious, but you see that ghosting going on not nearly as good as Photosynth. So one take your time, make sure you're in a nodal point and do it. The other alternative since we're on pano mode would be into our camera. We're just doing regular shots, and here I have to I can't rotate around that nodal point quite so well because they have to trigger it. This would be a What am I doing here? I'm now gonna be doing with the regular camera app. Now, I'm gonna go. Gonna go into this one Auto stitch, auto stitches, that one that I mentioned that allows you to do shots after the fact. So skittle the shots. It's actually quite a lot higher resolution than those previous to select. One will go into our calls photo library. I think it's not gonna like that because it's really called Recently added. So I'm gonna go through. I think it's our 1st I think this was it. So I'm gonna select all these images. Doesn't matter, is actually does a great job. No matter the number of images stitch 17 different images, extracting them, aligning them. It's going to use all now. This is in its fine. It's rough panel mode, but you can see it actually did a great job. And this is this is it's super fast mode. If you come over here to your settings and do advanced resolution 100% 18 mega pixel and the blending is best and I like that and you say, Would you like to re stitch now it's going to do all of those and take more than just literally what was two seconds. But the fact that it was able to find if you've done a lot of panel sittings at a footer shop, you'll know it'll take something like that. It'll say, I'm sorry, you know, three of those. I have no clue what you did. These were not shot in order right there. Just there's no set order toe how I shot. I shot this one, then went on either side. So, um, it's a very, very good app. And again, if you've got the money shot and you can't do it in one fell swoop, side to side and one panel, this is probably your best bet to do a checkerboard one. Shoot the individual shots, try and rotate around that nodal point, and I think it's excellent questions. Yes, wise, um, would you say that Idol stitches the best one for actually stitching them together, whereas maybe the the built in an IPhone camera would be an equivalent Quality is for is actually taking photos. They built an IPhone app. If you can do something in one panel is the best dramatically so the quality is better. The resolution is better. The fact that there will be no seems because it's not shooting. Individual shots will be better. Everything about it will be better. So if you can shoot it that very close up too far away, everything will be better. You're only limitation in that app is that you really can't do multiple rows. You can't do one and another one another one. Then use auto states to put those together. Yeah, not really gonna work because your likelihood of this vanishing point of this entire Siris in this entire Siri's out. You know what? I've never even tried it because my my brain says it won't work in any way, shape or form. But, um so if you can do it in that app, by all means, do it. I'd actually say that if you if you go What? But I need this up and down. What can I do if I need to get mawr up and down? I only want one past. I want over 40 megapixels. How am I going to do it? I'm gonna do it with something like this olo clip because it can use a fisheye or wide angle to grab a greater portion of the scene both up and down as well. A sideways. And now you've got a 43 megapixel shot that is giving you a wider range of you, a top and bottom. So, really, in terms of panels, if you have the ability to have something like a olo clip or something else, use it because it will give you the highest resolution, the highest quality shooting in one nice fluid movement, even though this is actually done a great job. You know, even look at that computer that's different square, you know, keyboard. That's pretty darn cool that, um, it did it as good as it did. Okay, all things considered close up, low light. Everything about that. That's a challenging panel. Yes, que are the Sony Lens? Could you just Sunderland's Woe use the Mac software? Remember, that's a camera, not a lens, so to speak. So that camera is sending the resulting image over here. But I'm not using the Apple software. I'm using the Sony software. If it was just a lens and it was using the Apple software, but I was thinking that same thing. Um, there's no panel feature built into that, but you could do with the Internet of things. That would be nice. What you could do. Actually, you can do it. Fine. Remember, you can do individual shots, shot, shot, shot, shot and then use auto stitch so it doesn't matter where the images came from. You can shoot with your SLR, bring it to your IPhone and use auto stitch. But if you're using your so are you probably have access to photo shop. But in terms of this, there's nothing stopping you from doing this. Each shot megapixel and stitching it together. With auto Stich, you'll be limited to a total of 18 megapixel because that's what this supports. But you certainly can't do it. There's no nothing in the world why you wouldn't be allowed to do that before I'm going to do because we just did. Pano, you gotta see this. This is you got to see this. This is telling you how to do it. So here what we're gonna do is and again, I like doing this little tossed on the table collage. So I'm gonna go like this, and basically I'm doing this scenario because I like that irregular edge. It's not really meant to do this, but that's what I like to do. Okay, really cool. So there it is on White. As I swiped from one side to the other, it's kept all those in memory. So it has all those images at its disposal, and I'm just sweeping There it is on black here it is done that way. Really cool. This is on transparency. When this saves this one, it saves it as a PNG with the transparency map. You saved this back over ascended to via email. And you have this on transparency. You can put on any background, so that is on true transparency. This is if you've been smoking something. I don't know that one, but there it is on pure black. So it actually is a wonderful AB. Absolutely love it. It's called You got to see this. So those are a few ranges of pinots way. Have a couple questions from the chat room. Absolutely a lot of people asking a lot of great questions. But before I get to those, can you just list off all the APS that we've just covered Armando Sivam just quickly because I know a lot of people were like, Wait, what was that called as we're going through the ones, the ones we've already used looking up on my desktop, you'll see the snap seed, which we haven't gotten. We haven't gotten into the enhancing APS yet. Snap seed Photoshopped Express Light Room Express The one I mentioned that photo sync up. There is what I use for sinking to the desktop pro Cameron. That lower left hand corner I use all the time we went through the adobe apse, which included shape mix brush, are the main ones we did here, as well as Premier Clip in the center There I'm color didn't do color color. I just gotta bring up because it's just to gosh darn cool color. Whatever you point at it automatically look at the top. It's giving me the color palette, including inside this room, your purple looking at my screen. It just makes a color palette of whatever you're looking at when you see something you like, you know, come up here and I go click. And now here is a color palette that I can save, or I can come up here at another one back to the camera and clicked in the lower right and there those shots and I could continue to find tune any of these elements here, and it's just absolutely fantastic. It's called color used to be called Cooler. Now it's called Color. The neat thing about all these different palates that you make. These are part of the new profile that when you're creative cloud user, anything that you make here, including that shape of that a little checker piece, all those when I get into Photoshopped, they're gonna be sitting there in my brand new Photoshopped CC 2014 library panel. So the brushes that I made that will brush that I just tweaked thes color palettes that shape, um, they're gonna be sitting in footer shop for me to use in my art projects as well as now. What? Adobe cause marketplace, which is a ton of free clip art world class clip art that is there. So I die aggress. That was cooler. There was my adobe APs and then the ones that we started on were these right here in my photography pro hdr. We did Photosynth 3 60 Pano. We did camera. Plus we did auto stitch. Those are the ones that we used so far. And once we get back, we're gonna do a video. Will do after focus will do Retouching will do black and white conversion so much stuff to still go over. Yeah, question from the chat room jacker. Who wants to know with Pro Camera A CR Should you first to turn off the IPhone HDR Or do you need to do that? I know you don't. Maybe it's a totally different piece of software. It's not. It's not going to be used. Those said it's not using the camera software. Okay, very good question. You don't have to change any. Don't worry about it. Awesome. One more, Jack, you are amazing. But, uh, I have, but I heard the but But I have a question. So you haven't answered all of this person's questions yet? Maybe you can right now that taking pictures on IPhone Mobile does not have resolution like SLR cameras for editing. And when you open a mobile image on your computer, it distorts the pixels. How do you handle that? Well, it doesn't distort the pixels from in your mobile device to your desktop it whether the camera is a mobile phone or point and shoot or DSLR that should be there in terms of distortion, which you could say, because as a default, all these cameras shooting J peg their compressed so they have the potential of having some compression artifacts I usually don't find. In most of these images, the compression artifacts are an issue where they come into plays. If you shot something that was significantly, let's say, under exposed, you pulled out MAWR information than ever should have been allowed by law. Then you're going to start seeing artifact ing because there was no tonal range there and you forced it kicking and screaming and that now you're really going to start seeing the artifact ing and you'll get mawr of that with a mobile phone because of the teeny tiny sensors that you're going to get rather than on something like your DSLR. But technically, there's no inherent distortion on it that the ratio of the pixels to each other is the same. No matter what camera is. We're all square pixels set up on a grid, so the issue is how can I minimize the distortion, the corruption, the artifacts of it on, and that's gonna be shooting as best as possible. In the correct light, you'll notice that the combining multiple images together in, you know, the maps that allow you to do that increased quality. They can actually increase the sharpness. Like I said, every time that you shoot a shot on the IPhone, it's now if it's low, light will shoot multiple shots and only save the sharpest. Or if you're shooting in challenging light, it'll do it, and they'll combine the different exposures. So all of that is increasing the quality of the image significantly. You also mentioned, like blowing something up from Mobile. Yes, What was that one more time that I'm typically going to do that inside of photo shop. In this case, if I'm preparing anything for print because you can't see a 1 to 1 representation of the pixels, I'm gonna want to open it up in some place that I can meaning my home computer. That way I can check the pixels. I could do final sharpening where I can actually see it. If we had more time, I do a little quick overview on adobe camera or light room. That's the nice thing these last four days. We've done just that in the day, dealing with photo shop in light room. So the Siri's covers a lot of photo shop in light room and adobe camera raw facts, even though today's emphasis is not on that, um, but there I'm gonna be able to interpret the image up. I mentioned an image size built into Photoshopped. There's a new algorithm called automatic that allows you to increase the size of the file very, very well. If it's got nice hard edges to begin with it, it will maintain that with a minimal amount of distortion. So up raising inside a photo shop is gonna be your main way, too. Bring the amount. The number of pixels was known as P P. I pixels per inch up to whatever your printer needs. And again, the other trick that I'd say, especially in these environments, where you have low resolution files. If you can't print on a gallery, rap or watercolor paper, if the paper or medium has texture to it, that will hide the pixel ization that's taking place when you enlarge it. So you condone easily. Blow up twice a large something on a gallery wrap, then you could on glossy stock at least twice as big. So again, the ability to go from an IPhone to say, a two foot by three foot poster, these air 20 by 30 inches. And, um, we we may. It's kind of hard with the video to see what the quality is. But those were blown up to make sure that we had 300 pixels per inch for these prints and worked out great at eight megapixels. So, yeah, the main thing is going to photo shop. That way you can check the focus, do some noise reduction again. Noise reduction in both light room and adobe camera raw is awesome to minimize any artifact ing sharpening. And then you can upright up residents at a photo shop toward of resolution. Your particular printer calls for