Lessons
Class Introduction
17:26 2Welcome to Photography
13:08 3Camera Types Overview
02:00 4Viewing Systems
28:43 5Viewing Systems Q&A
08:45 6Lens Systems
32:06 7Shutter Systems
13:17 8Shutter Speeds
10:47Choosing a Shutter Speed
31:30 10Shutter Speeds for Handholding
08:36 11Shutter Speed Pop Quiz
09:06 12Camera Settings
25:35 13General Camera Q&A
14:38 14Sensor Sizes: The Basics
15:33 15Sensor Sizes: Compared
19:10 16Pixels
20:13 17ISO
21:13 18Sensor Q&A
13:34 19Focal Length: Overview
11:09 20Focal Length: Angle of View
15:09 21Wide Angle Lenses
08:48 22Telephoto Lenses
25:23 23Angle of View Q&A
09:29 24Fish Eye Lenses
10:39 25Tilt & Shift Lenses
23:42 26Subject Zone
17:19 27Lens Speed
09:56 28Aperture Basics
08:46 29Depth of Field
21:49 30Aperture Pop Quiz
13:23 31Lens Quality
18:30 32Photo Equipment Life Cycle
03:57 33Light Meter Basics
09:25 34Histogram
15:25 35Histogram Pop Quiz and Q&A
10:58 36Dynamic Range
06:03 37Exposure Modes
15:58 38Manual Exposure
09:38 39Sunny 16 Rule
05:54 40Exposure Bracketing
10:18 41Exposure Values
27:21 42Exposure Pop Quiz
26:43 43Focus Overview
16:15 44Focusing Systems
05:15 45Autofocus Controls
11:56 46Focus Points
07:35 47Autofocusing on Subjects
20:19 48Manual Focus
07:52 49Digital Focusing Assistance
03:40 50Focus Options: DSLR and Mirrorless
04:58 51Shutter Speeds for Sharpness and DoF
05:20 52Depth of Field Pop Quiz
12:14 53Depth of Field Camera Features
04:54 54Lens Sharpness
09:58 55Camera Movement
05:20 56Handheld and Tripod Focusing
04:32 57Advanced Techniques
07:12 58Hyperfocal Distance
06:50 59Hyperfocal Quiz and Focusing Formula
04:36 60Micro adjust and AF Fine Tune
05:34 61Focus Stacking and Post Sharpening
06:00 62Focus Problem Pop Quiz
18:07 63The Gadget Bag: Camera Accessories
25:30 64The Gadget Bag: Lens Accessories
12:46 65The Gadget Bag: Neutral Density Filter
20:43 66The Gadget Bag: Lens Hood and Teleconverters
08:55 67The Gadget Bag: Lens Adapters
05:43 68The Gadget Bag: Lens Cleaning Supplies
04:34 69The Gadget Bag: Macro Lenses and Accessories
15:57 70The Gadget Bag: Flash and Lighting
05:08 71The Gadget Bag: Tripods and Accessories
18:50 72The Gadget Bag: Custom Cases
11:20 7310 Thoughts on Being a Photographer
07:37 74Direct Sunlight
25:04 75Indirect Sunlight
18:49 76Sunrise and Sunset
18:39 77Cloud Light
14:48 78Golden Hour
09:50 79Light Pop Quiz
07:53 80Light Management
14:00 81Artificial Light
13:56 82Speedlights
16:02 83Off-Camera Flash
27:38 84Advanced Flash Techniques
09:49 85Editing Overview
08:24 86Editing Set-up
08:06 87Importing Images
16:45 88Best Use of Files and Folders
20:54 89Culling
20:56 90Develop: Fixing in Lightroom
18:13 91Develop: Treating Your Images
10:53 92Develop: Optimizing in Lightroom
14:51 93Art of Editing Q&A
06:01 94Composition Overview
06:53 95Photographic Intrusions
10:10 96Mystery and Working the Scene
16:18 97Point of View
09:11 98Better Backgrounds
16:02 99Unique Perspective
11:02 100Angle of View
15:06 101Subject Placement
41:14 102Subject Placement Q&A
05:18 103Panorama
07:39 104Multishot Techniques
13:57 105Timelapse
16:13 106Human Vision vs The Camera
20:07 107Visual Perception
08:35 108Visual Balance Test
22:56 109Visual Drama
12:25 110Elements of Design
28:57 111The Photographic Process
12:28 112Working the Shot
27:38 113The Moment
04:42 114One Hour Photo - Colby Brown
1:04:32 115One Hour Photo - John Keatley
1:03:05 116One Hour Photo - Art Wolfe
59:01 117One Hour Photo - Rocco Ancora
1:01:20 118One Hour Photo - Mike Hagen
1:01:20 119One Hour Photo - Lisa Carney
1:00:52 120One Hour Photo - Ian Shive
1:08:00 121One Hour Photo - Sandra Coan
1:10:29 122One Hour Photo - Daniel Gregory
1:06:07 123One Hour Photo - Scott Robert Lim
1:05:41Lesson Info
Camera Movement
All right lets dive into camera movement. Thinking about moving the camera in dealing with focusing. So the safe shutter speeds as we had mentioned before back in the shutter speed section is one over the focal length. So if you have a 60 millimeter lens, you're gonna want something around a 60th of a second. All right we kinda went through this. Hopefully you got it. This is just a little bit of reminder in here. But as we mentioned before, there is another factor you need to be aware of. If you are using a crop-factor camera, think of your camera as, is it a 1.5 crop? 1.6? A two-times crop camera? You gotta multiply that. So for instance, you got a 60 millimeter lens, you got 1/60 of a second, you got a 1.5 crop, which means you should actually be at 1/90 of a second to hold that steady. And this is before any stabilization. And so you gotta take the focal length of the lens, put one over it. Gettin' to be a lot of math here. I don't really like that but. Once you kinda get the first...
one figured out, it's a little bit easier to get 'em figured out going on from there. And so you do need to be concerned about the sensor size. And so if you had a 200 millimeter lens, you need 1/200 of a second. But if you're using it on one of the Olympus or Panasonic four-thirds cameras, you're gonna need 1/400 of a second. So once again, our 70-300 is probably gonna need 1/60 to 1/250, a little bit slower if you have some sort of stabilization system in it. Twenty-eight around 1/30 of a second. We're just pickin' numbers that are pretty eight, pretty close, 28 and 30 are pretty close together. And then you'll have to check your stabilization system to see how good it is with different, 'cause it changes from system to system. Now with Nikon, they will often have a little switch on their vibration reduction system for normal and active. So normal is hand-held or being on a monopod. Active means that you are standing on something that is moving like a plane, a boat or a car or something like that. What's happening is that the camera can, well the lens at least in this case, can calibrate the movements more towards human movements, which tend to be a little bit slower. Or to movements from a vehicle, which tend to be a little more high-frequency movements. And so flip that switch according to your situation. They do also have a sport mode. And so this is designed for panning on some of their high-end lenses. This is not on very many of their lenses, but it is on a few of their lenses. And if you are on a tripod, I would highly recommend turning off the vibration reduction if your camera is truly steady. The exception to this little rule right here, turning the VR off, if you had like a big 800 millimeter lens, and it was on a tripod but the wind was blowing it around just a little bit, I'd still leave the vibration on at that point. And so there's kind of a big lens exception to that turning the vibe the VR off. With Canon's IS system, many of their lenses will have one two or three in the options for the stabilizer mode. And number one is your standard, normal operation for handheld photography. Number two is a panning mode so if you're gonna be panning with your subject from side to side, it turns off the horizontal stabilizer so your movements are very directly related to the lens. So you keep your panning very very smooth. And the third option, which is only on some of their higher-end lenses, is it only activates the image stabilization during the exposure, so that when you're looking through the viewfinder, your lens is not wobbling around on you. Some people have found it disorientating or it's almost like a motion sickness that they can get because the lens is moving around differently than they are actually holding the camera system themselves. And then once again if you're on a tripod, you generally wanna turn the IS off unless you have a very big lens that is experiencing some movement to wind or something else. You need to be very aware of your camera movement versus the subject movement. What is causing the problems? Are you shaking the camera? All of us are able to hold the camera more steady or less steady than somebody else. And so that's one of the things that you wanna do those tests, the homework assignments, to see how steady you are at holding the camera. Talk about tripods real quickly. Very very helpful for many different types of photography. It would be, I think a great benefit to anyone who is new into photography to start working with a tripod, just to get used to it. It slows you down, enables you to think about things. You're gonna compose your images a little bit more carefully. And I think it's a good tool to have. Really makes you think quite a bit more about what you're doing. And it allows you to shoot photos that you're never gonna be able to shoot hand-held, because you're able to set at lower ISOs, longer shutter speeds. You look down on the street, you see some car headlights. This is probably about a four-second exposure.
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Ratings and Reviews
a Creativelive Student
Love love all John Greengo classes! Wish to have had him decades ago with this info, but no internet then!! John is the greatest photography teacher I have seen out there, and I watch a lot of Creative Live classes and folks on YouTube too. John is so detailed and there are a ton of ah ha moments for me and I know lots of others. I think I own 4 John Greengo classes so far and want to add this one and Travel Photography!! I just drop everything to watch John on Creative Live. I wish sometime soon he would teach a Lightroom class and his knowledge on photography post editing.!!! That would probably take a LOT OF TIME but I know John would explain it soooooo good, like he does all his Photography classes!! Thank you Creative Live for having such a wonderful instructor with John Greengo!! Make more classes John, for just love them and soak it up! There is soooo much to learn and sometimes just so overwhelming. Is there anyway you might do a Motivation class!!?? Like do this button for this day, and try this technique for a week, or post this subject for this week, etc. Motivation and inspiration, and playing around with what you teach, needed so much and would be so fun.!! Just saying??? Awaiting gadgets class now, while waiting for lunch break to be over. All the filters and gadgets, oh my. Thank you thank you for all you teach John, You are truly a wonderful wonderful instructor and I would highly recommend folks listening and buying your classes.
Eve
I don't think that adjectives like beautiful, fantastic or excellent can describe the course and classes with John Greengo well enough. I've just bought my first camera and I am a total amateur but I fell in love with photography while watching the classes with John. It is fun, clear, understandable, entertaining, informative and and and. He is not only a fabulous photographer but a great teacher as well. Easy to follow, clear explanations and fantastic visuals. The only disadvantage I can list here that he is sooooo good that keeps me from going out to shoot as I am just glued to the screen. :-) Don't miss it and well worth the money invested! Thank you John!
Vlad Chiriacescu
Wow! John is THE best teacher I have ever had the pleasure of learning from, and this is the most comprehensive, eloquent and fun course I have ever taken (online or off). If you're even / / interested in photography, take this course as soon as possible! You might find out that taking great photos requires much more work than you're willing to invest, or you might get so excited learning from John that you'll start taking your camera with you EVERYWHERE. At the very least, you'll learn the fundamental inner workings and techniques that WILL help you get a better photo. Worried about the cost? Well, I've taken courses that are twice as expensive that offer less than maybe a tenth of the value. You'll be much better off investing in this course than a new camera or a new lens. I cannot reccomend John and this course enough!