Lessons
Class Introduction
17:26 2Welcome to Photography
13:08 3Camera Types Overview
02:00 4Viewing Systems
28:43 5Viewing Systems Q&A
08:45 6Lens Systems
32:06 7Shutter Systems
13:17 8Shutter Speeds
10:47Choosing a Shutter Speed
31:30 10Shutter Speeds for Handholding
08:36 11Shutter Speed Pop Quiz
09:06 12Camera Settings
25:35 13General Camera Q&A
14:38 14Sensor Sizes: The Basics
15:33 15Sensor Sizes: Compared
19:10 16Pixels
20:13 17ISO
21:13 18Sensor Q&A
13:34 19Focal Length: Overview
11:09 20Focal Length: Angle of View
15:09 21Wide Angle Lenses
08:48 22Telephoto Lenses
25:23 23Angle of View Q&A
09:29 24Fish Eye Lenses
10:39 25Tilt & Shift Lenses
23:42 26Subject Zone
17:19 27Lens Speed
09:56 28Aperture Basics
08:46 29Depth of Field
21:49 30Aperture Pop Quiz
13:23 31Lens Quality
18:30 32Photo Equipment Life Cycle
03:57 33Light Meter Basics
09:25 34Histogram
15:25 35Histogram Pop Quiz and Q&A
10:58 36Dynamic Range
06:03 37Exposure Modes
15:58 38Manual Exposure
09:38 39Sunny 16 Rule
05:54 40Exposure Bracketing
10:18 41Exposure Values
27:21 42Exposure Pop Quiz
26:43 43Focus Overview
16:15 44Focusing Systems
05:15 45Autofocus Controls
11:56 46Focus Points
07:35 47Autofocusing on Subjects
20:19 48Manual Focus
07:52 49Digital Focusing Assistance
03:40 50Focus Options: DSLR and Mirrorless
04:58 51Shutter Speeds for Sharpness and DoF
05:20 52Depth of Field Pop Quiz
12:14 53Depth of Field Camera Features
04:54 54Lens Sharpness
09:58 55Camera Movement
05:20 56Handheld and Tripod Focusing
04:32 57Advanced Techniques
07:12 58Hyperfocal Distance
06:50 59Hyperfocal Quiz and Focusing Formula
04:36 60Micro adjust and AF Fine Tune
05:34 61Focus Stacking and Post Sharpening
06:00 62Focus Problem Pop Quiz
18:07 63The Gadget Bag: Camera Accessories
25:30 64The Gadget Bag: Lens Accessories
12:46 65The Gadget Bag: Neutral Density Filter
20:43 66The Gadget Bag: Lens Hood and Teleconverters
08:55 67The Gadget Bag: Lens Adapters
05:43 68The Gadget Bag: Lens Cleaning Supplies
04:34 69The Gadget Bag: Macro Lenses and Accessories
15:57 70The Gadget Bag: Flash and Lighting
05:08 71The Gadget Bag: Tripods and Accessories
18:50 72The Gadget Bag: Custom Cases
11:20 7310 Thoughts on Being a Photographer
07:37 74Direct Sunlight
25:04 75Indirect Sunlight
18:49 76Sunrise and Sunset
18:39 77Cloud Light
14:48 78Golden Hour
09:50 79Light Pop Quiz
07:53 80Light Management
14:00 81Artificial Light
13:56 82Speedlights
16:02 83Off-Camera Flash
27:38 84Advanced Flash Techniques
09:49 85Editing Overview
08:24 86Editing Set-up
08:06 87Importing Images
16:45 88Best Use of Files and Folders
20:54 89Culling
20:56 90Develop: Fixing in Lightroom
18:13 91Develop: Treating Your Images
10:53 92Develop: Optimizing in Lightroom
14:51 93Art of Editing Q&A
06:01 94Composition Overview
06:53 95Photographic Intrusions
10:10 96Mystery and Working the Scene
16:18 97Point of View
09:11 98Better Backgrounds
16:02 99Unique Perspective
11:02 100Angle of View
15:06 101Subject Placement
41:14 102Subject Placement Q&A
05:18 103Panorama
07:39 104Multishot Techniques
13:57 105Timelapse
16:13 106Human Vision vs The Camera
20:07 107Visual Perception
08:35 108Visual Balance Test
22:56 109Visual Drama
12:25 110Elements of Design
28:57 111The Photographic Process
12:28 112Working the Shot
27:38 113The Moment
04:42 114One Hour Photo - Colby Brown
1:04:32 115One Hour Photo - John Keatley
1:03:05 116One Hour Photo - Art Wolfe
59:01 117One Hour Photo - Rocco Ancora
1:01:20 118One Hour Photo - Mike Hagen
1:01:20 119One Hour Photo - Lisa Carney
1:00:52 120One Hour Photo - Ian Shive
1:08:00 121One Hour Photo - Sandra Coan
1:10:29 122One Hour Photo - Daniel Gregory
1:06:07 123One Hour Photo - Scott Robert Lim
1:05:41Lesson Info
Shutter Speeds for Sharpness and DoF
So this whole section is dedicated to getting the sharpest photos possible. We've been dealing with the auto-focus, but it's time to move on to dealing with the other little things that could be causing a lack of sharpness in our photos. Now, we had a whole section where we talked about shutter speeds, but I just wanna go back and review, thinking about are you choosing a shutter speed that is appropriate for that situation. And so, if your pictures are out of focus, one of the reasons might be because you didn't choose a shutter speed that was fast enough to stop the action. And it's very easy these days, because you can check the metadata of your camera, and this is in various places, depending on the program, to see, well, what shutter speed did I actually use, or did the camera choose for me, if you were letting the camera choose it. And so we have fast shutter speeds like 500th and 1000th of a second for subjects that are moving very fast. If we wanna add in a little bit of blur, ...
like on these cyclists. Notice the spokes on the wheels, especially the one in the back with the five spokes. We're getting that little bit of blur at 125th, and maybe we want that blur. But the subjects themselves were pretty sharp, 'cause I was panning with them. Casual human movement, the number was 160th of a second. That does a good job with that. As we get blow that, we're gonna be getting blurring, depending on how fast that subject is moving. Horses galloping at full speed are gonna have a lot of blurriness to them. People moving are gonna be a little bit slower, so they might need a little bit of a slower shutter speed, like 15th of a second. And then if we wanna shoot those rivers, and waterfalls, and things like that, we might be down around one second, and if you wanna do the nighttime, really low-light stuff, you might be wanting to experiment with 30 seconds. But there, make sure you have a camera on a tripod so that the rocks, in this example, are nice and sharp and not moving around. And so, really be aware of the shutter speeds that you're choosing for those types of subjects where things are moving, because you have to have the right type of shutter speed if you're not gonna be getting that blurriness. So that's just a quick review. If you need to go back to the first section and go through the shutter speeds again, we've got a lot more information in there. Now, we already talked about depth of field, but once again, that's one of the reasons why you might be looking at a photograph going, it's not really sharp, is it might not have enough depth of field. And so, we do have a huge range of depth of field that we can choose from, from setting our aperture to the various settings, from 1.4, a really shallow depth of field, to f/22, a massive depth of field. And a lot of photographers don't end up with a 1.4 lens with their first camera and lens system, and that's one of the first lenses that I recommend, is something like a 50/1.4, or maybe the 50/1.8, which is a slightly cheaper version of it that gets you most of the effect for much less money. And so this is something that I just wanted to kinda refresh in your brain before we get to the next quiz, because that will be part of the quiz system there. Of course, we're memorizing the aperture system here. The numbers, which one gives us more depth of field, which one gives us less depth of field. This has all been covered back in the aperture section, but just a little review to remind yourself 1.4 is the big opening, but that is the shallow depth of field. Remember that depth of field is also controlled by the focal length. And so, a 50 millimeter lens is going to have a shallower depth of field than a 28 millimeter lens. So those wide angle lenses give us more depth of field, the telephotos give us less depth of field. As an example, look at the mountains in the background. They're a bit more out of focus with this 50 millimeter, even though they're both f/8. As we get focusing close up, the closer we are, the shallower the depth of field we have. And so, if you wanna have that shallow depth of field, if you can get really close to your subject, that will enhance that shallow depth of field look of the image. And so, once again, depth of field is controlled by three different settings. The first is the aperture setting. F/22 gives you more depth of field, f/1.4 gives you less depth of field. It's controlled by our focal length. The wide angle gives us more, the telephoto gives us less depth of field. With the shooting distance, if things are very far away, we're gonna get more depth of field, and if we're very close, we're gonna have very, very shallow depth of field. And so, if we have our camera set at f/ with a wide angle lens, focused at things very far away, everything is gonna be in focus. If we're at f/1.4 with a telephoto lens, focusing on something that's really, really close to us, it's gonna be super, super shallow depth of field, because all of these are maxed out. Where things get interesting and a little bit complicated is when you have a mixture of one setting here and one setting there and one setting there, which one wins out? Which one is the most powerful over the other? And that's what you need to start considering in your photographs. You've got three different parameters pulling you in different directions.
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Ratings and Reviews
a Creativelive Student
Love love all John Greengo classes! Wish to have had him decades ago with this info, but no internet then!! John is the greatest photography teacher I have seen out there, and I watch a lot of Creative Live classes and folks on YouTube too. John is so detailed and there are a ton of ah ha moments for me and I know lots of others. I think I own 4 John Greengo classes so far and want to add this one and Travel Photography!! I just drop everything to watch John on Creative Live. I wish sometime soon he would teach a Lightroom class and his knowledge on photography post editing.!!! That would probably take a LOT OF TIME but I know John would explain it soooooo good, like he does all his Photography classes!! Thank you Creative Live for having such a wonderful instructor with John Greengo!! Make more classes John, for just love them and soak it up! There is soooo much to learn and sometimes just so overwhelming. Is there anyway you might do a Motivation class!!?? Like do this button for this day, and try this technique for a week, or post this subject for this week, etc. Motivation and inspiration, and playing around with what you teach, needed so much and would be so fun.!! Just saying??? Awaiting gadgets class now, while waiting for lunch break to be over. All the filters and gadgets, oh my. Thank you thank you for all you teach John, You are truly a wonderful wonderful instructor and I would highly recommend folks listening and buying your classes.
Eve
I don't think that adjectives like beautiful, fantastic or excellent can describe the course and classes with John Greengo well enough. I've just bought my first camera and I am a total amateur but I fell in love with photography while watching the classes with John. It is fun, clear, understandable, entertaining, informative and and and. He is not only a fabulous photographer but a great teacher as well. Easy to follow, clear explanations and fantastic visuals. The only disadvantage I can list here that he is sooooo good that keeps me from going out to shoot as I am just glued to the screen. :-) Don't miss it and well worth the money invested! Thank you John!
Vlad Chiriacescu
Wow! John is THE best teacher I have ever had the pleasure of learning from, and this is the most comprehensive, eloquent and fun course I have ever taken (online or off). If you're even / / interested in photography, take this course as soon as possible! You might find out that taking great photos requires much more work than you're willing to invest, or you might get so excited learning from John that you'll start taking your camera with you EVERYWHERE. At the very least, you'll learn the fundamental inner workings and techniques that WILL help you get a better photo. Worried about the cost? Well, I've taken courses that are twice as expensive that offer less than maybe a tenth of the value. You'll be much better off investing in this course than a new camera or a new lens. I cannot reccomend John and this course enough!