Lessons
Class Introduction
17:26 2Welcome to Photography
13:08 3Camera Types Overview
02:00 4Viewing Systems
28:43 5Viewing Systems Q&A
08:45 6Lens Systems
32:06 7Shutter Systems
13:17 8Shutter Speeds
10:47Choosing a Shutter Speed
31:30 10Shutter Speeds for Handholding
08:36 11Shutter Speed Pop Quiz
09:06 12Camera Settings
25:35 13General Camera Q&A
14:38 14Sensor Sizes: The Basics
15:33 15Sensor Sizes: Compared
19:10 16Pixels
20:13 17ISO
21:13 18Sensor Q&A
13:34 19Focal Length: Overview
11:09 20Focal Length: Angle of View
15:09 21Wide Angle Lenses
08:48 22Telephoto Lenses
25:23 23Angle of View Q&A
09:29 24Fish Eye Lenses
10:39 25Tilt & Shift Lenses
23:42 26Subject Zone
17:19 27Lens Speed
09:56 28Aperture Basics
08:46 29Depth of Field
21:49 30Aperture Pop Quiz
13:23 31Lens Quality
18:30 32Photo Equipment Life Cycle
03:57 33Light Meter Basics
09:25 34Histogram
15:25 35Histogram Pop Quiz and Q&A
10:58 36Dynamic Range
06:03 37Exposure Modes
15:58 38Manual Exposure
09:38 39Sunny 16 Rule
05:54 40Exposure Bracketing
10:18 41Exposure Values
27:21 42Exposure Pop Quiz
26:43 43Focus Overview
16:15 44Focusing Systems
05:15 45Autofocus Controls
11:56 46Focus Points
07:35 47Autofocusing on Subjects
20:19 48Manual Focus
07:52 49Digital Focusing Assistance
03:40 50Focus Options: DSLR and Mirrorless
04:58 51Shutter Speeds for Sharpness and DoF
05:20 52Depth of Field Pop Quiz
12:14 53Depth of Field Camera Features
04:54 54Lens Sharpness
09:58 55Camera Movement
05:20 56Handheld and Tripod Focusing
04:32 57Advanced Techniques
07:12 58Hyperfocal Distance
06:50 59Hyperfocal Quiz and Focusing Formula
04:36 60Micro adjust and AF Fine Tune
05:34 61Focus Stacking and Post Sharpening
06:00 62Focus Problem Pop Quiz
18:07 63The Gadget Bag: Camera Accessories
25:30 64The Gadget Bag: Lens Accessories
12:46 65The Gadget Bag: Neutral Density Filter
20:43 66The Gadget Bag: Lens Hood and Teleconverters
08:55 67The Gadget Bag: Lens Adapters
05:43 68The Gadget Bag: Lens Cleaning Supplies
04:34 69The Gadget Bag: Macro Lenses and Accessories
15:57 70The Gadget Bag: Flash and Lighting
05:08 71The Gadget Bag: Tripods and Accessories
18:50 72The Gadget Bag: Custom Cases
11:20 7310 Thoughts on Being a Photographer
07:37 74Direct Sunlight
25:04 75Indirect Sunlight
18:49 76Sunrise and Sunset
18:39 77Cloud Light
14:48 78Golden Hour
09:50 79Light Pop Quiz
07:53 80Light Management
14:00 81Artificial Light
13:56 82Speedlights
16:02 83Off-Camera Flash
27:38 84Advanced Flash Techniques
09:49 85Editing Overview
08:24 86Editing Set-up
08:06 87Importing Images
16:45 88Best Use of Files and Folders
20:54 89Culling
20:56 90Develop: Fixing in Lightroom
18:13 91Develop: Treating Your Images
10:53 92Develop: Optimizing in Lightroom
14:51 93Art of Editing Q&A
06:01 94Composition Overview
06:53 95Photographic Intrusions
10:10 96Mystery and Working the Scene
16:18 97Point of View
09:11 98Better Backgrounds
16:02 99Unique Perspective
11:02 100Angle of View
15:06 101Subject Placement
41:14 102Subject Placement Q&A
05:18 103Panorama
07:39 104Multishot Techniques
13:57 105Timelapse
16:13 106Human Vision vs The Camera
20:07 107Visual Perception
08:35 108Visual Balance Test
22:56 109Visual Drama
12:25 110Elements of Design
28:57 111The Photographic Process
12:28 112Working the Shot
27:38 113The Moment
04:42 114One Hour Photo - Colby Brown
1:04:32 115One Hour Photo - John Keatley
1:03:05 116One Hour Photo - Art Wolfe
59:01 117One Hour Photo - Rocco Ancora
1:01:20 118One Hour Photo - Mike Hagen
1:01:20 119One Hour Photo - Lisa Carney
1:00:52 120One Hour Photo - Ian Shive
1:08:00 121One Hour Photo - Sandra Coan
1:10:29 122One Hour Photo - Daniel Gregory
1:06:07 123One Hour Photo - Scott Robert Lim
1:05:41Lesson Info
Sunny 16 Rule
The Sunny 16 Rule, this is just kind of a good one to keep in your back pocket of little rules of thumb, things that work out really well. Alright, if you are in full sun, a bright sunny day, we know all about this here is Seattle, trust me, we are experts on sunny days here. F/16 and a shutter speed equal to your ISO, will give you a perfect exposure. F/16, and a shutter speed equal to your ISO. So let's do a little experiment. Alright, let's take a photograph here, and this is our picture that we're going to take. Let's take a look at our Aperture, Shutter Speeds, and ISO's. How do we set our camera up? Well, ISO 100, we like to get the best quality image off of our sensor. How does this rule work? Well, it's called the Sunny 16 Rule, you said f/16, and that actually works out pretty good because we want lot's of depth of field in this image anyway. And where do we set our Shutter Speed? Something close to where the ISO is. The closet number that we have in this case, is 125. Okay, b...
ecause 125 is pretty close to 100. If we step that up, we don't even need the light meter on our camera. We know that we're gonna get the right exposure. Works out well for that situation. Let's try another situation, let's make this a little trickier. Okay, it is bright sun, but I don't want f/16 on this shot. I want Shallow depth of field, I just want that Shallow depth of field look on this shot. So there's gonna be a little trick here. Alright, so let's go ahead and just set it up as normal. So normally we would want the best setting on the ISO, we'd set it to f/16 and 125. We're gonna get the right exposure, and that's fine to make kind of us getting everything in the right place. Now we're gonna do some horse trading. We're gonna be trading one setting for another. And on this particular situation, it's gonna be complicated by the fact. Now what we're gonna try to do here is Shallow depth of field. This is complicated by the fact that the camera I'm using for this situation doesn't have ISO 100. There are some cameras that have just ISO 200. And so I'm using a camera that has ISO 200. So I need to compensate for this ISO 200, and I can do that by going to a slightly faster shutter speed. Because by going to 200 it makes it brighter, by going to 250 it makes it darker, and they always balance each other out. Now, I wanna shoot this with Shallow depth of field. How do I do that? I'm gonna need to make a change in the Aperture right? So let's change the aperture from f/16, all the way down to 1.4. Now we just moved a lot of stops. Can you count those stops? Here I'll count them for you. We just moved that aperture seven stops more light alright? So which means we need to let in seven stops less light through some of the other mechanisms on our camera. Alright, so how do we do this? Well, we could go up to the shutter speed, and that's gonna take us five stops, and we are maxed out. We cannot get that shot with this system. However, this particular camera has something very unusual about it. Come on in, 16000 of a second, and 32000 of a second, now I haven't mentioned these shutter speeds before, and this is something new that we haven't been able to do before, but on at least one of the cameras I own, it has an electronic shutter. You remember when we were talking about shutters? Well, they have an electronic shutter that goes up to 32000 of a second. It does not work well for subjects that are moving, because you remember that scanning process? So, you know a bicyclist running kind of gets those oval wheels, it doesn't look quite right? But for a subject that is stationary, I can use an extraordinarily fast shutter speed, mainly for the reason that I want that really Shallow depth of field look under a very bright light situation, and so this is a Fuji X-T1, in case anyone's interested. Fuji's instituted some very high shutter speeds, as has Sony and some other manufacturers as well on their Mirrorless cameras, and so this is one of the advantages that we will see as we go to a global shutter, and not a physical shutter on front of the lens. We'll get to these extremely high shutter speeds, and so this is the trick in how this picture was taken. We have a question in class it looks like we're gonna go to. So in this example, I just wanna make sure I understand this correctly. If you have 8000 as your maximum shutter speed then 2. would probably be your maximum aperture? Well, on this particular lens 1.4 is the maximum aperture. But for, if you're using, if you have to stay at 8000-- Oh yeah, if you had 8000, and you didn't have this special camera, then you could back it off to f/2.8, because what we're trying to do is we're trying to make it two stops darker. That's two stops darker, and going from here 1.4 to 2.8 is two stops darker, so that is the, that's another solution. It doesn't get as Shallow a depth of field, and so it's a solution, yeah that-- Your maximums? Right. Okay, I never understood the Sunny 16 Rule, so this is cool. So John, just to push on that, while we've already had that question, when then, would you decide to use, change the ISO, instead of going up in shutter speed? Or, what's the, what's the difference? Well, in this particular scenario, we're, we are trying to make the picture darker, alright? And so we set higher and higher shutters, shutter speeds to make it darker. If we change the ISO, it's gonna make it brighter, which makes the situation worse. So in this case, we don't wanna touch the ISO. And I would say hang tight, we got a lot of stuff coming in for you here.
Class Materials
Free Download
Bonus Materials with Purchase
Ratings and Reviews
a Creativelive Student
Love love all John Greengo classes! Wish to have had him decades ago with this info, but no internet then!! John is the greatest photography teacher I have seen out there, and I watch a lot of Creative Live classes and folks on YouTube too. John is so detailed and there are a ton of ah ha moments for me and I know lots of others. I think I own 4 John Greengo classes so far and want to add this one and Travel Photography!! I just drop everything to watch John on Creative Live. I wish sometime soon he would teach a Lightroom class and his knowledge on photography post editing.!!! That would probably take a LOT OF TIME but I know John would explain it soooooo good, like he does all his Photography classes!! Thank you Creative Live for having such a wonderful instructor with John Greengo!! Make more classes John, for just love them and soak it up! There is soooo much to learn and sometimes just so overwhelming. Is there anyway you might do a Motivation class!!?? Like do this button for this day, and try this technique for a week, or post this subject for this week, etc. Motivation and inspiration, and playing around with what you teach, needed so much and would be so fun.!! Just saying??? Awaiting gadgets class now, while waiting for lunch break to be over. All the filters and gadgets, oh my. Thank you thank you for all you teach John, You are truly a wonderful wonderful instructor and I would highly recommend folks listening and buying your classes.
Eve
I don't think that adjectives like beautiful, fantastic or excellent can describe the course and classes with John Greengo well enough. I've just bought my first camera and I am a total amateur but I fell in love with photography while watching the classes with John. It is fun, clear, understandable, entertaining, informative and and and. He is not only a fabulous photographer but a great teacher as well. Easy to follow, clear explanations and fantastic visuals. The only disadvantage I can list here that he is sooooo good that keeps me from going out to shoot as I am just glued to the screen. :-) Don't miss it and well worth the money invested! Thank you John!
Vlad Chiriacescu
Wow! John is THE best teacher I have ever had the pleasure of learning from, and this is the most comprehensive, eloquent and fun course I have ever taken (online or off). If you're even / / interested in photography, take this course as soon as possible! You might find out that taking great photos requires much more work than you're willing to invest, or you might get so excited learning from John that you'll start taking your camera with you EVERYWHERE. At the very least, you'll learn the fundamental inner workings and techniques that WILL help you get a better photo. Worried about the cost? Well, I've taken courses that are twice as expensive that offer less than maybe a tenth of the value. You'll be much better off investing in this course than a new camera or a new lens. I cannot reccomend John and this course enough!