Fundamentals of Photography

Lesson 36 of 107

Exposure Bracketing

 

Fundamentals of Photography

Lesson 36 of 107

Exposure Bracketing

 

Lesson Info

Exposure Bracketing

Something else to think about is exposure bracketing. We talked about doing this manually before, but a lot of cameras will have an automatic option for you to shoot a variety of exposures, at different brightness levels, for a variety of reasons. It might be because you're just not sure what the right exposure is gonna be, and it's better for you to shoot a wide selection and then take it home and figure it out later, some of you though might be using HDR photography where you're combining photographs of different exposure values into one completed photograph. So, when it comes to exposure bracketing there is often a lot of different options, so I'm gonna tell you what some of these options are and then what I recommend and what I use for my photography at least. So you can shoot anywhere from two to nine exposures in these automated bracketing modes. Now you can manually bracket if you want, but automatic bracketing is kind of nice cause what happens is that when you press down on th...

e shutter release, if you're camera is in the continuous motor drive, it fires through all the shots as quickly as it can, and then stops. So it'll do all five shots for instance, just boom boom boom boom boom, and then it stops right away. And in everyone of those, it's changing everything that it needs to adjust. So it can be very quick and easy to work with. And so we have three exposures, which is kind of a traditional bracket but now, people are doing all sorts of things with their images, so you can go all the way up from five, seven all the way up to nine exposures. The exposure increment, how big a difference from one image to the next do you want? With modern digital cameras, it makes very little sense to bracket by a third of a stop. There is so little difference, you're not gonna see much difference. You can adjust modern digital images quite a bit, and so most photographers are bracketing by one to two stops between exposures. The shooting mode, you can be in program, shutter priority, aperture priority, or manual in this case. It depends on which you're doing. I tend to like aperture priority here. If you want, you can add exposure compensation on to the mix. If you're capturing three images, and you don't want the middle image at 0 EV, you can dial it up to plus one or down to minus two or wherever you want, so that you're getting that group of images either brighter or darker than necessary. And you might need to do that, depending on the situation that you're in. The drive mode can be in single or continuous, I often like it in continuous for the reason that I mentioned, is that the camera will suit to it very quickly and then just automatically stop. When I have the camera in the single mode, if I have it set up for seven exposures, I have to make sure I count one, two, three, 'cause I wanna know when I'm done. I don't want to finish at six, go on and take another picture and that's actually the seventh picture of a bracket series. Some cameras will give you the option of auto-cancel, and this depends on who you are. Are you the type of person who likes to bracket a lot? And in which case you would turn this off. If you're the type of person like me that just does bracketing once in a while, I'm gonna bracket once and then turn it off. 'Cause I don't wanna leave it on 'cause then the next five pictures I take are all gonna be of these different exposure levels. And so some cameras will offer that as an option. Some of the more advanced cameras will also give you the option of which order that you can shoot these images in. And there are some cameras that give you a really weird order, that when you look at it, once you've downloaded the images, it makes very little sense to me. I'm not gonna name brands here, but there's one of the cameras that shoots the 0 first, then it shoots the -one, and then the +one, and then the -two and then the +two, and when you see these all lined up, you kinda lose track of where you began one and end at the other. So a lot of photographers who do this on a regular basis like to change this from light to dark. 'Cause then it's very clear. When you shoot a series of five pictures, it's going darker to light, darker to light, darker to light, and it's very easy to separate them. And so the ones in the red squares are the way that I normally set my camera. three or five, I've done a few seven, if I've really needed something in a wide range. one stop EV I usually don't ever go less than that. I like aperture priority because with a bracket series of photographs, this generally only works with non-moving subjects. Because if it moves, it's gonna be in a complete different place in every single photograph and so this works for static-type shots: landscape, architecture-type shots and depth of field is usually more important in those types of images. And so aperture priority works well. I'll normally have the exposure compensation in the middle. Auto-cancel on, that's just because I don't shoot a lot of bracketing. If you are doing a lot of bracketing and you're working a, let's say you're a working real estate and you're photographing a house, and everything you shoot is a seven shot bracket series, turn that auto-cancel off so that you don't have to keep going back in and turning that feature on. Alright, so we have a lot of different modes on our camera and I wanna go through my recommendations of what I like, and what I don't like. So, when it comes to the auto modes, they're fast and they're easy, but there's no adjustments and that darn pop-up flash. If you have any of those pop-up flashes, they'll just automatically come off on you, and that's a different thing, that's a whole separate subject. I'll talk about that in light. But that can be really annoying. There's a lot of these scene modes that will give you a little bit better results than the standard auto mode because it has a better idea of what you're trying to accomplish in the photograph. And they are what I would also call good cheater modes. If you kinda want to see how the camera would set things up, put it in the sports mode, you'll find out that it uses faster shutter speeds, turns on the motor drive, it changes the focusing system, ah okay I see what it's doing. But what I've found in the scene mode is that you don't have the adjustments and in general, it never goes far enough. If I'm shooting something that I need a thousandth of a second, it's recommending twofive0th of a second, and so it never knows as much as you know, it's just got a little bit better of an idea of what you're doing. The program mode is fast and easy and you can use that shift feature to adjust the settings for your particular situation, but they either reset or don't reset and you may need to use the exposure compensation on that. Shutter priority, not one of my favorite, but it does give you an exact shutter speed, so if you know exactly the shutter speed that you wanna get, you can use that. Now, I'll freely tell you I don't like this mode but I do use it. When we were in Cuba, and we're shooting the panning cars coming down the street, the important thing on panning is getting the exact shutter speed you want, but this was changing right at morning light and the light was changing and so I said, just dial in your shutter speed everybody and let's get this shutter speed right and it was working really well in that situation and so it's not that I don't recommend it, it's just I don't recommend it a large percentage of the time. You may need exposure compensation with that of course, and you could accidentally exceed the range that your camera has on it. Aperture priority is kinda my travel mode, when I don't know what the next photo I'm gonna take is. It's fast, it's pretty safe, it's ready to go. I may need to jump in there with a little exposure compensation, but generally it's pretty good in most situations. Full manual is gonna get you exactly what you want in this specific settings in all the exposure values. It takes a little bit of set up time, takes a little bit of thinking. And so when it comes down to it, for most serious photographers, manual is the way to go if you have the time to get that set up. Aperture priority works pretty well, and from time to time, yeah, you could through your camera into program mode if you have to.

Class Description

As a photographer, you will need to master the technical basics of the camera and form an understanding of the kind of equipment you need. The Fundamentals of Digital Photography will also teach something even more important (and crucial for success) - how to bring your creative vision to fruition.

Taught by seasoned photographer John Greengo, the Fundamentals of Digital Photography places emphasis on quality visuals and experiential learning. In this course, you’ll learn:

  • How to bring together the elements of manual mode to create an evocative image: shutter speed, aperture, and image composition.
  • How to choose the right gear, and develop efficient workflow.
  • How to recognize and take advantage of beautiful natural light.

John will teach you to step back from your images and think critically about your motivations, process, and ultimate goals for your photography project. You’ll learn to analyze your vision and identify areas for growth. John will also explore the difference between the world seen by the human eye and the world seen by the camera sensor. By forming an awareness of the gap between the two, you will be able to use your equipment to its greatest potential.

Lessons

  1. Class Introduction
  2. Photographic Characteristics
  3. Camera Types
  4. Viewing System
  5. Lens System
  6. Shutter System
  7. Shutter Speed Basics
  8. Shutter Speed Effects
  9. Camera & Lens Stabilization
  10. Quiz: Shutter Speeds
  11. Camera Settings Overview
  12. Drive Mode & Buffer
  13. Camera Settings - Details
  14. Sensor Size: Basics
  15. Sensor Sizes: Compared
  16. The Sensor - Pixels
  17. Sensor Size - ISO
  18. Focal Length
  19. Angle of View
  20. Practicing Angle of View
  21. Quiz: Focal Length
  22. Fisheye Lens
  23. Tilt & Shift Lens
  24. Subject Zone
  25. Lens Speed
  26. Aperture
  27. Depth of Field (DOF)
  28. Quiz: Apertures
  29. Lens Quality
  30. Light Meter Basics
  31. Histogram
  32. Quiz: Histogram
  33. Dynamic Range
  34. Exposure Modes
  35. Sunny 16 Rule
  36. Exposure Bracketing
  37. Exposure Values
  38. Quiz: Exposure
  39. Focusing Basics
  40. Auto Focus (AF)
  41. Focus Points
  42. Focus Tracking
  43. Focusing Q&A
  44. Manual Focus
  45. Digital Focus Assistance
  46. Shutter Speeds & Depth of Field (DOF)
  47. Quiz: Depth of Field
  48. DOF Preview & Focusing Screens
  49. Lens Sharpness
  50. Camera Movement
  51. Advanced Techniques
  52. Quiz: Hyperfocal Distance
  53. Auto Focus Calibration
  54. Focus Stacking
  55. Quiz: Focus Problems
  56. Camera Accessories
  57. Lens Accessories
  58. Lens Adaptors & Cleaning
  59. Macro
  60. Flash & Lighting
  61. Tripods
  62. Cases
  63. Being a Photographer
  64. Natural Light: Direct Sunlight
  65. Natural Light: Indirect Sunlight
  66. Natural Light: Mixed
  67. Twilight: Sunrise & Sunset Light
  68. Cloud & Color Pop: Sunrise & Sunset Light
  69. Silhouette & Starburst: Sunrise & Sunset Light
  70. Golden Hour: Sunrise & Sunset Light
  71. Quiz: Lighting
  72. Light Management
  73. Flash Fundamentals
  74. Speedlights
  75. Built-In & Add-On Flash
  76. Off-Camera Flash
  77. Off-Camera Flash For Portraits
  78. Advanced Flash Techniques
  79. Editing Assessments & Goals
  80. Editing Set-Up
  81. Importing Images
  82. Organizing Your Images
  83. Culling Images
  84. Categories of Development
  85. Adjusting Exposure
  86. Remove Distractions
  87. Cropping Your Images
  88. Composition Basics
  89. Point of View
  90. Angle of View
  91. Subject Placement
  92. Framing Your Shot
  93. Foreground & Background & Scale
  94. Rule of Odds
  95. Bad Composition
  96. Multi-Shot Techniques
  97. Pixel Shift, Time Lapse, Selective Cloning & Noise Reduction
  98. Human Vision vs The Camera
  99. Visual Perception
  100. Quiz: Visual Balance
  101. Visual Drama
  102. Elements of Design
  103. Texture & Negative Space
  104. Black & White & Color
  105. The Photographic Process
  106. Working the Shot
  107. What Makes a Great Photograph?

Reviews

a Creativelive Student
 

Love love all John Greengo classes! Wish to have had him decades ago with this info, but no internet then!! John is the greatest photography teacher I have seen out there, and I watch a lot of Creative Live classes and folks on YouTube too. John is so detailed and there are a ton of ah ha moments for me and I know lots of others. I think I own 4 John Greengo classes so far and want to add this one and Travel Photography!! I just drop everything to watch John on Creative Live. I wish sometime soon he would teach a Lightroom class and his knowledge on photography post editing.!!! That would probably take a LOT OF TIME but I know John would explain it soooooo good, like he does all his Photography classes!! Thank you Creative Live for having such a wonderful instructor with John Greengo!! Make more classes John, for just love them and soak it up! There is soooo much to learn and sometimes just so overwhelming. Is there anyway you might do a Motivation class!!?? Like do this button for this day, and try this technique for a week, or post this subject for this week, etc. Motivation and inspiration, and playing around with what you teach, needed so much and would be so fun.!! Just saying??? Awaiting gadgets class now, while waiting for lunch break to be over. All the filters and gadgets, oh my. Thank you thank you for all you teach John, You are truly a wonderful wonderful instructor and I would highly recommend folks listening and buying your classes.

Eve
 

I don't think that adjectives like beautiful, fantastic or excellent can describe the course and classes with John Greengo well enough. I've just bought my first camera and I am a total amateur but I fell in love with photography while watching the classes with John. It is fun, clear, understandable, entertaining, informative and and and. He is not only a fabulous photographer but a great teacher as well. Easy to follow, clear explanations and fantastic visuals. The only disadvantage I can list here that he is sooooo good that keeps me from going out to shoot as I am just glued to the screen. :-) Don't miss it and well worth the money invested! Thank you John!

Vlad Chiriacescu
 

Wow! John is THE best teacher I have ever had the pleasure of learning from, and this is the most comprehensive, eloquent and fun course I have ever taken (online or off). If you're even / / interested in photography, take this course as soon as possible! You might find out that taking great photos requires much more work than you're willing to invest, or you might get so excited learning from John that you'll start taking your camera with you EVERYWHERE. At the very least, you'll learn the fundamental inner workings and techniques that WILL help you get a better photo. Worried about the cost? Well, I've taken courses that are twice as expensive that offer less than maybe a tenth of the value. You'll be much better off investing in this course than a new camera or a new lens. I cannot reccomend John and this course enough!