File Formats, Adobe Camera Raw, and Sharpening
File Formats, Adobe Camera Raw, and Sharpening
5. File Formats, Adobe Camera Raw, and Sharpening
File Formats, Adobe Camera Raw, and Sharpening
I just want very quickly talk about file formats um as how many people in here photographers I'm a designer's couple okay as a photographer you really have to file formats and photoshopped you'd worry about so when you go appeared to the file menu you click save what did you say that when you do say that or save the image was already saved? Which that's why didn't open this dialogue? Um under format the photoshopped format remembers your layers the jpeg format is what you'd give the world easy way to remember if it's for you it's for somebody's gonna work and photo shop and you want to remember layers then you pick the photos show format if it's not for you j peg that goes to the world on ly real file format as a photographer you have to worry about a designer png we'll support transparency so remember when I show you that transparent background earlier if your designer and you've got a logo or something with transparency and the png format will support that where's the jpeg format, wh...
at will it do it let's make it white if there's transparency and something and you you took it a j people just make it white because it doesn't support that but guys when it comes to file formats that's the stuff that you don't have to worry about anything else photoshopped file keeps the layers everything else when you save two j peg its going to flat in those layers together okay so if it's a photo file that you think you want make sure you save it as a psd so you can go back and edit it if you're going to send a j peg to somebody in an email or put on web that's fine and for designers same thing except you might say that png will flatten the image as well but if you're going to you're going to keep your layered photoshopped files for you to work on the png or the j pegs or what's going to go to everybody else all right uh this is a big one because true story so mom says she's like well she's like I uh I see all these adjustments and photoshopped you know how do I it's kind of confusing image image adjustments I got levels I got curves I got hugh saturation she's like you don't have to open up all these up separately I said no those air for refined task that's when you get in a photo shop you want to do something very refined if you're just going to edit an image the place where you should start off with is camera all right so if you double click a rafah which this if you look at this one any f so it's a nikon ralph format you double click a raw flour it opens up in camera if it's not a raw file if it's a photo what's open up this one if it's a photo you go to the filter menu and go to the camera all filter to different way to get in the same place okay same setting same everything but this is this is this is the way this is where you're gonna edit your photos this is where they'll start and in keeping with our theme here there's a ton of panels inside of here all I'm going to ask to start off with is just the basic power because it's going to do about eighty percent of the work um exposure exposure does just what you think it would right you overexpose the photos brighter you underexposed photos darker so it's going to make the photo greater contrast guess what it adds contrast alright highlights highlights bring down the bright parts of the photo shadows open up the deeper, darker parts of the photo whites and blacks, whites and blacks was kind of like levels remember, if you look up here, see that history ram that's up third top I don't really have any gaps, so I don't really have to worry about but if you did see a gap there that's when you can start moving your whites and moving your blacks just if you saw a little gaps on the sides there clarity, clarity is detail it's it's, kind of like contrast, but what it does is it gets into the hard to get areas like clouds, rocks, things that air gray because contract what's contrast, it takes the brights, makes brighter, takes the darks and makes him darker. Qatar clarity gets in everything in between. So you still want to contrast to let's say these rocks all right, vibrance and saturation two different ways to boost the color vibrance will boost the color, but I want to be zoomed in that far vibrance will boost is good for portrait ce because it will pretty much retain your skin tones, and it won't. It won't make your skin red and well, if you go too high, but it will start to maintain skin tones. Saturation to me is good for everything else, because saturation will boost all the colors in the photo on dh. Then, of course, you have your white balance settings up at the top. I want to make this a little bit warmer, so I had some white balance to it, okay, make the sky a little bit darker, okay, but that is camera raw. The basic panel is seriously that's, where like eighty to ninety percent of your work is going to happen at the peak e that's before p after okay tell you eighty percent of its right there in the basic panel sharpening, sharpening their next topic. So moving on to sharpening I do most of mine inside of camera raw so there's a sharpening panel inside of here and the way it works is you first I need to be at least zoomed into one hundred percent so I'm gonna make sure resumed. Just click my zoom tool and take a look down here you see the sharpening sliders amount what? Sharpening d'oh sharpening finds edges finds edges in your photo okay, so this is an edge. The amount slider once it finds it ends is how much contrast is they're going to add to that edge? The radius slider says how once I find that it how far outside so I go teo ad that sharpening too if you get you ever see those photos that have halos glowing around something that because somebody chose a radius slider that was too high and so what happens? This is a found an edge and then an expanded outside that edge and and add a halo or glow so generally I keep it on about one point four pretty much for all your digital camera images detail when details low it's just going to look for the real contrast he stuff when details hi it's going to start looking for more so as you look zoom in a little bit more for you see the change it's going to start to find mohr to sharpen the downside of that is that when you come up here to the sky, I see how it starts to get noisy and grainy that's where the masking slider comes in because masking we'll let you get pretty aggressive in these sliders and then it will hide it watch and if I hold down my option or all key, I could actually see it happening, so we'll keep the sharpening and everything else and I'll hide it from the smooth air is great for a portrait, right? We want to sharpen the details close things like that, but we don't want to sharpen the skin the skin is a smooth area so by doing that masking and I'll start to hide it. But guys, honestly that's don't overthink sharpening seriously like that's that's ninety percent of sharpening that I do, you don't have to do too much more to the photos so you could get a lot of it done right inside a camera rock all right and then when you're done with camera, you click open image and it will open the image right into photos show a big distinction is once you open that image into photo shop it's no longer a raw file right now I'm doing pixel stuff to it, so if I duplicate the layer and change it to multiply. Okay, if I g o and double click this raw file again. It doesn't have that change on it, because that's, not part of the raw file. Now morgan and photo shop and kameron photoshopped don't kind of see each other that way. So just keep in mind once you get into a photo shop. Now, when I say this, it'll be a j peg or a psd of some sort.
Ratings and Reviews
Eugenia Van Bremen
I am a beginner, but I've also watched the Adobe Basics Getting Started in Photoshop videos as well as started watching some of the Ben Wilmore videos on Creative Live (and watched a bunch of beginning videos on YouTube). So I'm just starting out, but I've still gotten a decent foundation of the most basic elements of Photoshop. Despite already watching (and taking notes of all the major & most useful details) all those videos, I still found shortcuts that weren't mentioned in any of those other videos, even the ones that covered the exact same material Matt covered (And yes, there was some things he didn't mention that other videos did; so far everything I watched gave me some new learning). I watched mostly on 1.25 or 1.5 speed since I did already have some basic learning & then slowed it down or paused to take notes when he got to some new stuff. It was definitely worth the time investment to learn about the hot key tips he has sprinkled in as well as the Camera Raw filter within Photoshop, which I haven't heard of before. My only complaint isn't about the course itself, but it's a general call-out that I've found deeply frustrating when watching Photoshop & Illustrator tutorials: As the versions are updated, a fair number of the tools change location. For instance, in the Camera Raw part, the location of the toolbar with the "visualize spots" box is totally different. It took several google searches and about 20 mins to figure out where to find that valuable box on the new set up. I really wish Creative Live with create a little compendium that updates the location of tools when a program updates. It would save a lot of headaches. But that's not Matt's fault and his class was overall fantastic. I'll definitely be watching more of them.
Great class. I wish there was more videos but okay for a beginners class. I think Matt is great. I've been following him for awhile on FB and YouTube. I was happy I got to watch him teach, great instructor.
a Creativelive Student
I have been sitting on this class for MONTHS being so intimidated by photoshop but i totally took the plunge and im so glad i did! Matt is an amazing instructor - Clear and to the point. Also entertaining! Cant wait to watch another class by matt. I learnt alot! Thanks CL :)