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Editing Your Photos

Lesson 8 from: Apple® iPhoto® '11

Lesa Snider

Editing Your Photos

Lesson 8 from: Apple® iPhoto® '11

Lesa Snider

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Lesson Info

8. Editing Your Photos

Lesson Info

Editing Your Photos

Now, let's get into editing your photos, okay? And we're gonna have about hopefully we're going to end up with about 30 solid minutes, if not about 45 at the end of the class to take a slew of questions when I can't, I'm gonna keep motoring on right now. I want to be sure to get through at least this chunk. So I photo is an amazingly powerful image editor, as you are about to learn. So let me show you a few things that you can do, and then we'll pop into I photo and those of you here. If you've gotten the images, then you can follow along when we get into the live part, which will be fun. So a couple different ways to edit your images in I photo. And it could not be easier and more user friendly. And like we've already established in this class, you're never touching your original. You can see down here. I've clicked the edit button at the very bottom of the IPhone toolbar to go into edit mode. Editing is a moting thing. It is a work space, but it really is a most Okay, So when you go ...

into edit mode, then you get the little fun nail photo browser down at the bottom that lets you move between different photos that may be in that album or event or what have you. So you've got three different tabs at the top here in editing mode, kind of like First Up Elements has three different editing modes, you know, guided Quick and full. I Photo has three different editing workspaces. Quick fixes are for exactly that fast things that you probably need to do to slough photos that includes rotating, straightening, cropping retouching, which is fixing blemishes. Here and there, you can take out a wrinkle or two. If you want to do that, you could fix red eye. You can also let I photo apply a little magic wand to your photos in the form of the enhanced button that will let I fought to go through and do whatever it thinks it needs to do to make your photo look nice. Okay, so it usually adds a little bit of color saturation, lightens a photo a little bit. It analyzes the photo and tries to see if it can decide what that photo needs. I find it's about 50% good and bad kind of thing, so you can certainly open the photo and click the enhanced button. If it needs a little bit of adjustment, see if you like it. If it looks terrible, you can just click the undo button. It's down here at the bottom right of that panel. Or you can press command Z undo that last step so you might want to give the enhanced button a try on some of her photos. But once I show you you how wonderful the adjust pain Lena's, you probably ever won't go back to that unless you're dis completely strapped for time. So let's take a look at how some of these guys work. Let's say we need to straighten photo So I've selected a photo and clicks the edit button, and so automatically I photo magnifies it just like we double clicked it. Okay, but it gives me the photo browser at the bottom, and it gives me all of my different quick fixes on the right hand side. So if I want to do any of these things to my photo, you simply click the button and then it will expand to show you the controls that air contains. They're in for that particular fix. So in this situation, we get a very easy to use angle slider. So as soon as I click straighten I photo enlarges. The photo puts that grid on top of it, which is gonna help me line up the photo. So what you do is you drag the angle slider until the grid looks until the grid line is actually straight across What you want to straighten. So you got to find something. He's me in your further that really is supposed to be straight. Then you use the angle slider to turn that grid so that it's straight across that, uh, thing that really should be straight in your image. And then I photo is gonna look at that angle, and then it rotates your picture to the angle. Yeah, it's really easy. And when you're finished, you can just click the done button and you can see down here at the bottom you've got undue, which would, under your last step and then revert to original goes all the way back to the original of your image. No matter what the Heck you've done to it at any time today or a year from now, It really is quite amazing. So that's how easy it is to straighten your photo. It's just so intuitive, cropping, same kind of thing. Click The crop button in that area is gonna expand. You automatically get a crop box placed on top of your image with a handy rule of thirds grid. So if you didn't compose your shot using the rule of thirds in camera, they can always crop the photo here. And just like a crop option may have experienced in any other image editor, you can grab the corners of the crop box to enlarge or reduce. You can grab the sides of the crop box to make it any size you want. You can click and drag within the crop box to move it around on top of the image. So what I'm doing in this screenshot is I'm cropping out. All those people that were so rude is to get into my frame. Get out of my friend. If you know in advance that you want a coffee industry certain size, you can restrict your crop box to that size by turning on the constrain check box, and then you'll get a little pop up menu that lets you pick from some of the most frequently used sizes. So that's a good thing. If you know in advance, hang on a prettified by seven of this thing, Then you don't want to do your own kind of freehand cropping cause you might screw up the aspect ratio when you might not be able to get back to that perfect five by seven. So that's a given to be. And then, if you don't like the crop, you can click, reset and then a year from now, if you decide you want to uncross that image, you can select the image and choose Revert to Original, and it will go right back to the UN cropped version. Now the effects panel is a whole lot of fun, but it's a little bit funky to use in that the clicks you make here are cumulative, and you really don't give a new user feedback that that's happening, which is a little bit of a drag. But now you know. So what happens is you can make some read emitter rudimentary adjustments here you can lighten, darken, add contrast. You can add a golden glow to your image by clicking the warmer button. You can cool it off with blue tones by clicking cooler, and you can intensify the colors by clicking saturate button. But again they are cumulative. So the more you click those buttons, the more that certain changes gonna apply to your image. If you go too far, let's say I've added a gold tone to this picture. Let's say I've clicked the warmer button three times. Well, what if I think Oh, well, that third time was a little bit too much. Then you can just click the undo button at the bottom, right to go back one clip. And then, if you want Teoh, uh, go back to the original. Of course, you can click the revert to original buttoned down there now, the second set of icons down here. Underneath that line, they actually do give you visual feedback of the strength, if you will. From multiple clicks, you get a little number. So, for example, I've applied an antique effect to this photo, and as soon as I click the antique button, the little one comes up with an arrow so I can keep clicking it. And it will tell me how many clicks I've made, which indicates the strength of that particular change. And that was really easy to go back. Let's say I'd clicked it three times and I want to go back to what it looked like when I clicked it twice. Then you could just use the little arrows that show up on either side of that number. So that lets you quickly experiment with different strengths of that particular change. And all of these guys in the effects panel are really good, especially the color effects are good when you've got a photo that you can't get. Tau look right any other way so that can save an otherwise, you know, subpar image. Black and white is gonna create a just what you think black and white out of the image. But again, you can always get back to the color version. No problemo. A CP is gonna add a little bit of a brown tent. Antiques gonna drain a little bit of the color. Not all of it. Um, the rest of these guys are rather the Knicks row. Matt Vinje and engine blur all gonna give effects to the edges of your images. How you create a soft oven yet, and I foot on that you can't create collages. You can't blend one image to another, and I photo at all. Anything you do to a photo is pretty much an all or nothing thing, but you can if you wanted to add a nice, soft white edge to your image or nice soft black edge. And again, you can control the strength of that. And then you can also blur the edges of your photo by just clicking the edge. Blur. Button the three buttons at the bottom. I honestly don't use very much at all. If you want to fade the color of your image, you can click the fade button that will kind of start to drain the color. If you want to boost the colors, you can click the boost button. And if you want to get rid of all the effects that you've applied in this panel, you can click the none button or if you want to step out of them one by one by one, you can click the undo button at the very bottom. So myriad ways you can backtrack to a certain level with these controls, and there are a lot of fun to play with, so let's go play with them. Okay? So the first image I'm going to find is in our Portugal folder, and I want to come over here. I'm gonna use this guy right here, so I selected the photo that I want to end it. Now I'm gonna click the edit button in the photo. In largest, this is a great opportunity to pop into full screen mode. So I'm gonna do that by pressing command option if see how it just removes all the distraction from your screen. So let's go ahead and try the enhance magic wand on this one just to see what it does. So I'll go ahead and click the enhanced button. Not a huge difference. I go ahead and click the nd button so you can see the before. So it gave me a little bit more contrast, but it really didn't do a whole lot to that image. Let's take a look at straightening it real quick. If I needed to straighten it, I can click this button right here and by using the angle slider. This is actually rotating the picture. So once you get it, the grid lined up on the item that really should be straight. Then you can click done, and that that absolutely all there is to it. We wanted to crop this image. I could come in here and click the crop button. It's even showing me the original behind the crop box. See how it's rotated just a little bit. That's the UN's straighten version. So Aiken, click and drag the corner handles of this crop box anywhere I want. I can click and drag within the crop box to reposition it on the image, and right now I'm just arbitrarily changing the size of it. But if I wanted to constrain it to a certain size or aspect ratio than I could turn on the constrained button and you all saw the crop box moves, what automatically constrained what I had originally drawn to this current setting right here, which I believe. So this is telling me that I'm gonna keep it the same aspect ratio as the original. So let's say if I wanted to print if I buy seven of this. I could come down here and she's five by seven and my crop box adjusts itself a little bit more to make sure that I get exactly five by seven. So we'll just call that good. And then when I finished, I can just click the done button, and that's when the crop actually applies itself. But even still, you can always click this revert to original button to go back to the original state or undo to back up one step. Any questions on that part? It's pretty self explanatory. And is Preeti dead? Come easy? Yes, there are times where when I'd like to have a couple of copies of a single image, Maybe you've got a portrait view that, like in landscape or vice versa, or maybe a black and white does photo. Allow me the ability to make virtual copies of a single issue image and then edit those individual copies. Great question it won't make virtual coffees will actually copy your photos so you can get complicated. Okay? And where does show up? Do they show up in the same album? Yeah, if that's where you did that triggered the duplication will show up right next. Okay, so I could go back to that album and then dragged those copies and to say, Black and White Album a new album or a landscape portrait. So that's how I do that. And how do I make a copy? Is that in the edit pain that I fight is in the edit menu? Yeah. Could you show me how to make a copy? Let's see copy adjustments. That's another thing I want to be sure to mention. Photos duplicate. There go our command D Manti community. Thank you. We had folks that we're asking that on the Internet as well. That's great. Okay, so let's pretend like we couldn't color correct this image. We haven't gotten into the adjust panel yet. That's next. But let's say we couldn't get the color looking right. It's still it's kind of washed out to us. We can come over here to the effects panel, and we can do all kinds of things to it. Maybe this version of photo doesn't appeal to us, but if we added a c p a tent Teoh, it might appeal to us. Okay, so with the c p. A. It's It's an honor off. Okay, so I can click it again to turn it off black and white. It's an honor off situation as well. But when you get over to antique, see how now I've got a one over there so I can keep clicking this button to keep adding the antique effects to that photo. And again, I can use those little arrow keys to back off of it if I go too far and you can add as many of these effects on top of each other as you want. So if I decide Oh, you know, I'm really liking the way this looks. But I wondered what it would look like with a nice black vignette on around the edges so I could give that a click. And I get the same kind of strength notification down here. So if I keep adding the strength of them via the video, it starts to close in to the center of my photo, which makes it really easy to go back out if you need it to you. And if I decide I don't like any of these effects, and I can simply click the no effects button and I go back to the state of that image without any of those effects being applied. Yes, when you are doing those three math have been yet the edge blur. Can you move that around or is it just from the center out no matter what? Yeah, unfortunately, great question. There's no way to really customize where that blur originates. You know, it's all just around the edges from the sun around. Exactly. Yeah, okay. And of course, these guys up here are all Kim wanted as well. So I can go on a warm up this photo. I can keep clicking the warmer button. And if I wanted to saturate, I could do a little bit of that, too. And if I wanted to go back to the original click that button down there and I can use my photo browser down here to move to other photos. Okay, so let's go ahead and pop back into keynote here for a second. And let's talk about the powerful adjust panel. You guys aren't gonna believe this panel. You're not gonna believe how much power is in here. So here we are. We're still in edit mode, and I've clicked the adjust tab at the top right of the I photo workspace. And immediately you're gonna see a HIST a gram, which is a really a collection of tiny, tiny bar graphs representing all the different brightness levels that are found in your image. Really, tall mountains means you've got a slew of pixels and the image if that brightness range really flat prairies or no information all means that you don't have any pixels in your image or very few of them at that particular brightness range. So if you've ever spent any time in front of shopper Photoshopped elements, this will look fairly familiar to you. If you've ever ran a levels adjustment, this is exactly what this is right here here in the free I photo, which is amazing at the left part of the history. And here it looks like a range of mountains. And that's a perfectly fine way to think about it, to be honest with you, because your goal is not to have any flat prairies on the edge of your mountain range. Okay, we're going to zoom into this here in a second, But under this mountain range here, you can see that I have three sliders. The one on the left is filled of black that represents your shadows of the darkest parts and your image. The one in the middle's filled with great. It represents your mid tones, and the one on the right is filled with lightning represents your highlights. The lightest parts of your image. In your goal is toe have the shadow and the highlight slider touching the foot of your mountains. Okay, that is your goal with this so you can play with those sliders. The midterm slaughter, the one in the center, is really great for boosting the contrast in your image. You can drag it slightly to the right to add a little bit of contrast. If your images to contrast you can drag a little bit to the left of decrease. Contrast a little bit underneath. There, you're going to see some really powerful sliders called exposure, contrast and saturation exposure. Slider is exact. Same Slatter you would find in adobe camera, raw software or light room. Okay, so you can actually change the exposure of your image to make it brighter or darker, as if you had captured a lot more light when you shot that photo so you can play with that. You can add contrast with the contrast slider, and you can boost the intensity of your colors with the saturation slider. Now, technically, you're gonna want to use either the levels adjustment at the top of history Graham or these three sliders. Typically, you don't. You should not have to use both. In your own experimentation, you'll find that you enjoy using one more than the other or on an image for image basis. You may find that the levels adjustment does a better job on this image than an exposure contrast adjustment. So another handy check box turned on if you're color. Correcting people is to avoid saturating skin tones, and we're gonna look at what that looks like. If you don't turn that on here in a minute is pretty frightening. Have you ever seen anybody with hot pink skin aside from Barbie, the sliders in the second, the middle part of the adjust panel are really fantastic. Definition is gonna look for areas of fine detail, and as you drag that slider to the right's gonna add a little bit more contrast to specifically those areas, which is really nice. Highlights. If you're highlights, need darkening. Let's say you exposed for the foreground and now you're skies completely blown out. You can darken those highlights, or whichever area by dragging the highlight slider to the right shadows is exact. Same thing opposite. If you have under exposed shadows that you want to illuminate, then you can drive the shadow slider to the right. So the highlight shadow adjustment here and I photo is kind of similar to the shadow and highlight adjustment you might find in the $800 version. Photoshopped. Very, very powerful. The sharpness slider does exactly that sharpens your image. I don't have any magic numbers to give you for that one, but I will tell you that it's okay for your image to look a little bit too sharp on screen if you're going to print it, because the printing process itself is gonna soften up those pixels so it won't look as sharp when it's printed. The noise is great for reducing noise, so if you've got any kind of speckles or grain in your image, really common from shooting in low light situations or shooting at a high I s O, which is your camera's sensitivity toe light. Then you could get a lot of specially stuff in your image. This Denoix slider should be there should be the word blur in princes beside of it, cause that's exactly what it's gonna do to your image. It's gonna apply blurring filter so you have to balance and your willingness to accept the blur against your unwillingness toe. See all the noise in there. So that's a bit of a dance for you to decide on your own. And there's no right or wrong settings to any of these things. It's all subjective. You know, you're the one that took the shot. Make it look like it looks good to you. Down here at the bottom, you can change the color of light that you actually had going on when he captured the image. I like my photos look a little bit more golden. I like I'm been looking really warm, so I do this a lot on my photos and I'll take the temperature slider and drag it slightly to the right to still warm them up a little bit. Just like the sun had just come out and kissed the skin. I'm kidding. You can also tempt the light more towards magenta, which is a fancy way of saying hot pink or green. And those sliders were extremely self explanatory. You can also use the little eyedropper that's next underneath the word temperature. There, Teoh. Use that and come over and click on another part of the image to change the the color of light to kind of match that part. So that's an interesting thing to do. But this panel is so powerful, and you can really do a lot of editing. Always tell people if I photo had a teeth whitener, it would be a true killer app, cause that's really the only thing you can do with its white teeth. There is absolutely no way to do it. Then a quick question. Could you go through and change a whole batch of pictures like warm up the temperature on 100 pictures? That one yes show. We have what's called a copy adjustments menu item. So if you are color correcting a set of pictures that were shot under the same lining conditions, this would be a fabulous thing to do. Now we we've had that ability and I foot for a while, but it was only as a mini command, and I photo 11. Apple finally gave us a keyboard shortcut. Thank you, because you would select the range of pictures you would color, correct the 1st 1 then select a range of pictures. And then you have to go to the edit menu and choose copy adjustments from the 1st 1 that apply, You know, pace the adjustment, so it's a copy paste situation. But now we have a keyboard shortcut for it and I foot 11 which makes it a lot faster. So I mentioned earlier that if you're using else, go back one that you really should decide to use either levels to the history and sliders or the exposure contrast saturation slider. So I want to show you the difference between those two. The original shot is on the lift, and if you don't want to remember anything about levels of brightness or history or anything, just know that ideally, you want your shadow in your highlight slider to touch the edges of your data. I call it the edges of your mountain range. The foot of the mountains so if you see that you have a big old prairies or gaps on either side of your hissed a gram, then you definitely want to drag those two sliders in to where they touch and you can see the difference that makes I didn't do anything else to this photo. I didn't adjust the Mentone contrast or anything. I just simply drag the shadow and the highlight slider in to touch the foot of my mountains. And I I have what I believe, a vastly superior image. Now I'm gonna do the same thing using the exposure Contrast sliders. No matter what combination I used for them, I was unable to get the same results using the exposure contrast sliders than I did using the levels history. So I end up using levels. More often than not, you can figure out which method works better for you, but in my own testing, I find that using the level sliders produces a more visually pleasing image to me, and I didn't give you guys this shot to play around with. So it see if you can reproduce the look you can get from using levels by using exposure. In contrast, I was not able to and just to show you a little bit more about the highlights and shadows slider. This image on the left was the original shot, and it's it's OK. But that area underneath the arch back on the mountain there is much darker than the rest of the photo. My highlights are also blown out just a little bit, so I can fix that by just using the shadows and the highlights adjustment. So I didn't do anything else to this photo. I didn't mess with levels or anything. I simply drag both the highlights in the shadow slider to the right. So I opened up the shadows and I darkened the highlights just a little bit, which is really helpful to do on your images on this next one. Here I've changed the the color temperature of the light, so the image on the left looks more blue but more cool tones in it. And I warmed it up simply by dragging the temperature slider more towards the yellows and those sliders a real easy to figure out what they do because you're dragging a cider toward the color on the slider bar, and that's exactly what's gonna happen to your image. For those of you here shooting raw in the audience or here in her classroom, I am very excited to tell you that I found a tip that wasn't in the book at all until I reread it. So the tip is if you are shooting a role image and you hold down the option key, the exposure slider changes to recovery, which allows you to bring back some of the detail in your highlights. Now, that slider is it gonna do you a hill of beans worth a good if you're not shooting in raw format. So if you are capturing and raw, you can bring back some of the detail that you may have lost from, say, an exposure change. If you drag the exposure slider to the right, Been your highlights have a real good chance of becoming clipped. And by clipped, I mean, whatever color they were would say they were really light grey. You could be forcing them to pure white by changing your exposure by brightening the exposure when you force pixels to pure white. Ain't no detail in pure white. It's just pure way. So with raw images. After you've made an exposure adjustment, you can hold down the option key and drag that recovery slider cause the same slider changes to recovery. Drag it to the right and you can start to see some of the fine detail come back from those highlights. Okay, Doesn't work for the shadows, but it works for the highlight, So that could be a really great thing. If you are shooting in raw, you also get this fabulous little navigation panel you can see down here towards the bottom left. You have a zoom bar in the resume tool rather on your toolbar. So let's say you're in edit mode here and you need to zoom weighing into the image to see you know what kind of changes you're making. It can be difficult to figure out where you are in the image, or, if you want to move to another part of the image, to zoom in on that area without actually having a zoom out and then moving into Mackin. Well, that's what that navigation pane was for. It's got a little square on it, showing us where we are viewing in the photo right now. We can click and drag on that little illuminated square in that tiny little panel to move around on another part of the image. And that's really good to do with people photos. Definitely you can leave and see how your changes were affecting the faces while you're zoomed in like that. I mentioned earlier that you can set up my photo to use an external editor, such as but a shop or elements. Programs like that. The way you do that is by popping open I photos preferences that she's I photo preferences and click the advanced tab. Now this. A lot of things and preferences moved between the last version of my photo in this one. So if you go hunting for this thing in the general pain, which is where it used to be, you will not find it. It's now in the advanced pain, which means to me the apple is trying to move it further a little bit further out of your reach. It's a little bit of discouragement to do that, but when she clicked the advanced pain, the Second Little Poppet menu or second little item you're going to see there is the edit photos, Poppet Mini By default, it set our photos so you can give it a click and you can say open in or edit an application. And when you click application from the pop up menu, then you get the open dialog box here, and you can navigate to where that program is Now. My screen shot here is showing that I've highlighted a folder. You do need to highlight the actual application. So I should have opened the folder and clicked on the application instead. And then the any time from that point forward that you click on the edit button and I feel the toolbar that other program will launch. And like I said earlier, I photo will make a copy of the image. You're opening up a copy in the external editor. Now, if you save that file from the external editor as a flattened file as a J peg, you don't have to actually flatten your layers if you're gonna use layers to edit. If you save, it is a J peg in the same location. If you do not move it to another folder, okay, you just save. It is J pic when you get back into I photo, you will see the original and that edited version from that other programs side by side. If you move that file to a different location to save it or if you save it as a PSD, which is a layered file, you will not see it in I photo because I photo does not understand layer styles. So that's the thing that you cannot stop it from opening up a coffee in the external editor because it doesn't trust you as far as it can throw you it iss certain you're going to screw up your rituals. So that's how you said that up in preferences. Now it's popped back into I photo and let's take a look at that powerful adjust panel. Now, I'm gonna grab another file here. I'm gonna grab this one right here. Click my adjust tab and I was going to show you how that levels adjustment works. It could not be simpler. Since I've got big, flat prairies on the side of my mountains or inside of the information that was gathered at the time of capture. I'm gonna drag my shadow slider to the foot of my mountains now How close do you get to the foot of your mountains? That's a subjective call Stock when it looks good to you and you can always tweak it later. So now I'm gonna grab my highlight slider and drag it in tours where the data actually is. And that's a huge difference between the original photo and that one. And then if I wanted to boost the contrast a little bit more, I could click and drag this slider, the Midtown slider to the right. A friend wanted to decry, decrease, contrast. I can click and drag it to the left to flatten it out a little bit. So when you're finished editing a photo, you can simply move to another one using that photo browser, huh? Down there at the bottom, see what other? But I want to edit. This is a good one to show you this one, in my opinion, really great subject manner. Really crappy capture situation. So let's see how good of a job this one does on this so I can grab mine levels shadow slider, drag it in. And when you're in a situation like this, where you don't have very much data but you've got a tiny bit that again is a subjective call. I would click and drag it into where more of the data actually starts. So that's a big difference on that one, too. And I could warm up this photo a little bit by clicking and dragging the temperature slider, and I might even boost the saturation. Just a touch. So that's a huge difference from the original version of that photo to this one. So now let's take a look at a photo with actual people in it. You can use this one right here, and I'm not having a double click to get to these. So I'm just mousing over my photo browser. I'm actually using an old mining now, so I've got a squirrel pee on it feels a bit retro burn. I loved my mind emails. So if you're using a magic mouth, you can use the swiping gestures to make back and forth through this photo browser. You can also compare photos while you're in edit mode, so let me get back Teoh. No. One that makes a little sense to do that. Let's say I want to compare this photo in this photo. I can simply hold down the command key, and it will open both photos at the same time. And I can compare. The team made it to decide which one I like better and oftentimes is. If you're not seeing the photo side by side, it's difficult to make that call. Which one you like better. So now click the little X, the top of that one, and will move Teoh the photo that actually had people in it. So let's say that you were gonna color corrects this photo. But you did not have the avoid saturating skin tones on. And if you get everything set just right, will increase exposure a little bit. Increased contrast. And now I want to boost the color. So I'm gonna drag saturation slider to the right ik. But watch what happens when you turn on. Avoid saturating skin tones. It left most everything else saturated, but it took away the weird skin tone, which was really quite awful. Any questions on into you? That part is it surprising what you can dio using that just panel it really, really is. We do have some questions from the jury. That's all right, scrapper girl had asked in the adjustment edit panel. Can I talk? Go back and forth between the original panel of the original photo and the current edit. I do not believe that you can. Another question was from also from scrapper girl, I can't detect what the difference is between definition and sharpness. Can you explain the difference? Well, okay, so sharpening simply means that I photo is gonna analyze your image and it's gonna look for areas of high contrast and when it finds those areas of high contrast is gonna deemed them to be an edge of something. So in this photo and edge would definitely be the contrast between, uh, this white part and the yellow part Any areas where you've got a large difference in color, I thought was gonna think that's an edge when it finds an edge. It takes a little thin strip along that edge of pixels because straddles that edge and it takes the dark pixels and makes them a little bit darker and takes the light pixels and makes them a little bit lighter. That's what sharpening is. Definition is looking for areas of fine detail. So in this photo probably be, you know, in this filigreed kind of area, and it does sort of the same thing. It's increasing contrast, but Onley in areas of fine detail. It's not doing it to the whole photo globally. So it is going in and looking for areas of contrast, but very small areas of high contrast, and it's boosting. The contrast is a little bit in those areas, only not in the whole photo did that do All right. Okay, so now let's say that we have color corrected this photo right here and now we've got a whole slew of other photos shot under the same lining conditions. Let's take a look at how we can possibly Thanks. Now we can see how we can copy the adjustment and then apply it to other photos. So now that I've made my adjustments, I can come in here to the photos menu, and I can not find it in the photos menu because it's under the edit menu. Does that make sense? Editing. Copy the edits. Go to the edit menu, so choose, edit and cruise on down the copy adjustments. And here's your keyboard shortcut. This is the new part in I photo 11. So we'll go ahead and copy the adjustments. Now, using our photo browser here, we can use our command he to highlight all those other photos that had those same lighting conditions. And we can trot back up to the edit menu and choose paste adjustments. And immediately, all those adjustments are gonna apply to those other photos. Looks like it applied to just one, though. That's going on. So I'm gonna pop out of I'm gonna pop back into here and see Now I'm viewing just this album, so I'm gonna see if it's gonna let us do it to the whole album. It kind of didn't look like it. Apply them that perhaps it did. Okay, so you have to be in the edit mode to do that. So we'll go back into and it moves, and we'll just look at those other pictures and see if actually anything was applied to them. Yeah, it doesn't look like it. Did it pay suggest mints? Yeah, so I didn't do it. You should be able to do that, Commander shift click to select several in the butter browser and then come back up and paste the adjustments, but it looks like for whatever reason, it's only applying them to the to the one at a time. So I may have to go back and investigate that a little bit. Maybe that you can only apply them one at a time, but at least you can copy them, which is really, really great. Any more questions on the editing part? But did we have a question in the Army? Okay, Um, and just another quick question from artists. My was How does boost differ from saturate? Oh, gosh, that's a good one. Now they're probably extremely similar. I honestly don't know. I would have to look back on that. We could do that on the break. Well, we can ask people on the Internet to look that up and let us know I have a better idea. And I just asked a clarification question. Someone had asked, If you edit a photo and I photo keeps the original, is it true after you could done? How do you keep the original plus the new edited version that happens automatically? Yeah, you can always get back to the original, no matter what you do to it. Even after you click done button, like in the cropping area or the straighten area. You can always get back to that original. Now, if you want to see the original next to you the edited version, you'd have to duplicate it. Okay. You don't need to save two files. Not you can always go back to done. And it won't. It won't erase any of the changes that you've made. After any change, you made an I photo. You can always revert to the original at any time because, you know, like a light room. If you If you make changes and then go back to the original save it, all those change changes will be lost. So I thought it does not do that. You won't be able to step back through the changes, but you can get back to the original version of the photo. And then if you went back to the original, could you get all the same all the changes that you had made after that? No. I'm gonna have to redo that. Yeah, that would be the hiccup that once you revert to original your changes or gone, unless perhaps a quick undo would undo the revert to original. Okay, that might work. OK, that's a great question. No, I want to keep cruising on All right. So as you can see, editing is amazingly easy and I photo, so let's see what else we need to do here. All right, I mentioned E. I mentioned that you can play in trim movies, and that's a big deal. So let's go find the maybe, and I'm gonna achieve and set up a smart album to go find some movie says I don't want to hunt and dig around for the movie someone she's filed you smart album. In this time, I'm gonna call it cleverly movies, and I'm gonna say that the file name needs to contain dot in movie and click OK. So immediately, we're gonna have a smart album appear over here on the left hand side called Movies, and that contains all the movies that came off my camera. So now let's say I've got this may be right here of the slack key guitarists in Hawaii. So to view the movies, which is a new feature if you can even imagine that an IPhone 11 you simply double click them And if we had our sound on which we don't need Teoh way would actually be hearing these guys, uh, these guys play. So I'm gonna go ahead and posit here so this control bar is extremely handy. You can, of course, control the sound. You can use this little diamond shaped icon to control uh, what you're looking at. Which part of the letters that you're looking at Of course, you're back and forward buttons in your play buttons. But the really cool one is this little year sprocket right here. If you give that a click, you're gonna bring up a pop up window that has this new option called trim case. We're gonna go ahead and click that when I do that, I get the world's easiest film trimming interface you've ever seen in your life. It's very simple. Your footage gets surrounded by this yellow bar and high zoom in. You can see the corners of the yellow or the ends of the yellow bar. Rather have two lives. Do you think that like a handle? So to trim footage off the end of this, you can just click and hold on your mouse button in drag inward to where you want that clip to stop, and it gives you the length of the clip as you're doing that same thing on the front end of it. If I wanted the clip to start in about here, then I could do that. And if I'm all set with that, then I can click trim and that's it. Absolutely. All there is to trimming movies and I photo. It's so simple. But again, you cannot clip a scene out here in the scene out here and smash it together. It's only a straight trim off the front or back end of the video, which is really, really handy.

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