Understand & Work With Night and Moonlight
night and moonlight. So stars and moonlight Lots of cool stuff you can do here. The moon looks like the sun. Kind of cool. The moon's out, you get it, actually lights up. You do with 15 22nd exposure and actually lights up things that are around it. Get the stars. Uh, this is called whole different type of light. It's called break like. So a car was driving through, Hit the brakes and you could see that red light on all the mounds there, but it illuminates it, and then you get the Milky Way back there. Cities said he's at night. So how to capture it? Gave you a little formula here. All right, So you're formula is for stars. It's I know you guys ever shot star photos before anybody not shot star photos before. So a few of you it's actually so much easier than you think. You sit your camera to manual mode. Okay? Which means you control the shutter and the aperture. So what we want here is our bases. We want 15 to 20 seconds. Okay. So you know, you're gonna plug in 15 to 20 seconds. Why? ...
Because if you do longer the stars tend to move. All right, So if you do any longer the stars air moving and you get blurry stars in the sky. So 15 and seconds keeps your stars nice and crisp. So from there, everything else is just becomes How do we fill in the blanks to get a well exposed photo? Well, chances are we want our lowest aperture possible. Could be one of much light as we can in. So if it's f 2.8, set your camera of 2.8, whatever lowest is on the camera. So we got our 15 to 20 seconds. We got our aperture plugged in is the lowest your lens will go and from there you just raise your I s o Until you get a well exposed photo, just keep raising it, and that will get you a well exposed photo. Could be 800. Could be 1600 could be 3200. You just keep raising it. Weaken do noise reduction later. But that's that's the formula. And then as farce focusing goes, there's a lot. You'll hear a lot of different things. I just say I put it on the little infinity sign, but you have to zoom and take a picture. Zoom in on the LCD. Look at the stars. If they're blurry, move your focus. Ring in a little bit. Take another picture. Zoom in, move your focus right. Once you get it, you get it. You can leave it there, but it actually is a formula like that's that's whenever I go out shooting. That's the settings that I plug in post processing. Not too much to it. I'll generally under expose these photos a little bit because I know we have so much leeway in light room and Photoshopped toe expose a little bit. What do I get from under exposing? I get not raising my I s so quite as much. All right, so I'll take one. If I got to raise it to 3200 to get well exposed, I'll take one. But then I'll I'll knock it down to 1600 takes him under exposed photos. And that way I don't have quite as much noise in there. Okay? And I know that with our camera files these days, you can push your exposure way more than you think you can. So I'm able to avoid some of the noise and then a lot of this is just going to be white balance. A little bit of whites, blacks, but daylight, White balance. If you want to sit your camera to it before after, OK, but white balance is gonna be a big part that daylight Or tweak your blues tweaker magenta, we'll give you a nice color up in the sky.
In Landscapes and Light, Matt covers all of the different types of natural light you'll encounter while shooting landscape photography out in the field.
There isn’t much you can do to influence the light Mother Nature provides on any given day, but you can learn how to work with it. In this class, Matt will show you amazing tips for how to capture the best possible light when shooting, and he’ll discuss the best tools for post-processing and making the most out of any outdoor photo shoot.