Adobe® Lightroom® CC Photo Editing: The Complete Guide


Lesson Info

Creating Finalized Files and Printing

And we're back with another day of Lightroom CC Photo Editing. Let's take a look at what we covered thus far. On day one we did an overview, just the big picture idea of what is Lightroom, how does it work behind the scenes, how to think about it, because you really need that because it works slightly differently than most other programs you work with. Then we figured out on the second day how to get all our images into Lightroom and there's a lot of options involved in doing so, so we tried to figure out what were the best options for us. Then on day three we ended up working with catalogs and folders. That means we learned what is a Lightroom catalog and should I use one of them or multiple? And folders sound simple, you're used to using them every day, but how could we pre-think it out how we used folders and use it in a way where we can keep track of the status of our images in a way where you can go back to your shot you made three years ago and tell you exactly what images are re...

ady to show the public, what images still need work and so on by doing something as simple as how you organize your folders. Then on the fourth day we started adjusting our images and we showed you how you can transform the RAW image you might've captured into something that looks dramatically better, and that's when we just got started though because there was a heck of a lot more to go. Today though what we're going to do is now we're gonna look at how we can create finalized files in print. When I talk about finalized files anything we do in Lightroom does not change the original image, if it's a JPEG or it's a RAW file, regardless, it keeps it untouched, and therefore we can experiment in Lightroom as much as we want without being concerned that we permanently changed anything. But then when we wanna share that image with someone else we need to somehow get an image that has those changes incorporated so that's what we'll learn how to do today. So let's jump over to Lightroom and see what's involved. If I wanna email and image to a friend or I just wanna copy it on to a USB drive and hand it to them I need to somehow get a file that has the changes that we've made incorporated into it. The way that's usually accomplished is you go to the File menu and there's a choice called Export. Now I rarely go to the actual choice called Export because when you get in there as you'll see in a moment it looks very complicated. So when you're in the Export dialogue we're actually gonna be creating a bunch of presets and those presets can incorporate a bunch of different settings and make it easy to export. So instead of choosing this choice called Export we'll actually be coming down here and choosing Export with Preset. When we do we're gonna have a list of various presets and when we come to this list we will be able to have this all customized because we'll learn how to create these. So if I wanna create an image that is of a particular size, in this case one that's about the size of HDTV as a JPEG file with a watermark on it, with the name of my website, all I need to do is choose this choice, the moment I let go Lightroom tells me up here that it's exporting one file, it just finished, and if I were to go and look on my desktop there should be a file sitting right here that has that image exported at the exact size I asked. It's a little hard to see because it's very small, but there's even a watermark down in the corner. So when we wanna get an image out to someone else it's gonna be very easy at the end, we're just gonna click on the image, we'll go to the File menu, choose Export with Preset, and we'll find a preset that is set up just right for our needs. But in order to be able to do it in a way that's that easy we first need to create some presets. And here's how you do that. Go to the File menu and choose Export, that's when you'll get the Export dialogue that comes up, this is a thing that looks really complicated, but you don't need to look at it very often. It's a matter of you might end up spending 30 or 45 minutes in here once and then you might never need to see it again, or it might be every six months or so you learn that you don't have a preset for a particular purpose so you pop into here to make a quick change and you don't have to look at it very often. On the right side there are all these different sections that I can collapse down, I'll collapse them all down so you can just see what the sections are called, and then we'll open each one one at a time and cover what's in there, but in the end what I usually do is I start off in the upper left, this is where you have your preexisting presets, once that are already installed. And there are some that come with Lightroom and there are some that you may create yourself and here if you right click in here you can create a new folder, so if you wanna organize them into subtopics there. But I'm gonna just go to any one of these presets that's anywhere close to what I would like to create and I'll click on it, that's gonna load in all the settings from the preset on the right side of my screen. So if I can find a preset that's anywhere close to what I want I click on it to start with so I don't have to fill out every single setting that's in here, I'm at least starting from something. Then I'm gonna look over here and let's go through this one at a time. First, the top part says export location and that just means when I export an image where should it go on your hard drive? Here are few of the choices that we have. You can have it go to a specific folder, for instance, I have a folder called Portfolio For Projector on my hard drive, and it is a folder full of images that are all the images that I could show at a moment's notice that I know are scaled down and sized for a projector, most projectors are HDTV size, 1920 by 1080 is what an HDTV is, so and those are all images that have been scaled to that size and I know I always have my portfolio ready. Well I could set it here so this particular export preset automatically adds something to that folder. So whenever I'm done with an image I just go and say file export and it'll say Portfolio For Projector and it automatically knows put it in that folder at the proper size. So that's when I might wanna use a specific folder. You can have it do the same folder as the original or here are some standardized folders. Oftentimes I have them go to my desktop because right when I'm done exporting I'm gonna be dragging them on to a USB drive or if I'm in my email program dragging them there or whatever the desktop's often a very convenient place to go. So that's what we'll use for now. Below that I have the choice of Put in Subfolder and on occasion I'll use that, I'll put it on here, and let's see what would be an example, sometimes I have one called like Time Lapse Exposures, and that's where I'm gonna have it export like if I have 500 pictures that is a time lapse of a scene I want to export the individual files so that time lapse scaled down to a particular size, I need to deliver them to somebody else. I don't want 500 images sitting RAW on my desktop. So I have it automatically create a Subfolder, it all depends on what you need that. Turn that off for now. I rarely have it add things to the catalog when it's done because I don't usually want more than one copy of a picture in my catalog, especially when there's more than one original then you could say, and for me that just kind of clutters up my catalog, I'm sure there are some workflows where you'd want to do that and you could here. Here it wants to know if it's going to create a new file, let's say it's saving it to your desktop and there happens to be another file that's already there of the exact same name, what should it do? And so it can ask what to do where it asks you do you want to replace that file or not or should it automatically overwrite a file that's already there, or choose a name for you? But it would add like a few characters on the end to make it a unique file name. So in general right now I'm having it set to save to my desktop. Below that it says file naming. If you leave this section alone it will use the original file naming that was applied, and most of the time that's what I use, but on occasion I'm going to send files to a client and I might not want them to see my original file name because maybe I don't want him to know that I'm sending him a photo from 2006 that's 10 years old, and I could come in here and just call this something like, in here these are presets, these are the same presets you get when you are importing your photos and you use a preset to rename those images or in one of the sessions I talk about renaming a group of photos after they're already in Lightroom and these are the same presets you get with that. But if I click Edit I might come in here and say, I want this to just be called Client Selects and then have it number them with a four digit number. And that means that regardless of what the original file names are when I'm done exporting these it's gonna change the file name so it's called Client Selects and then it'll number the files, one, two, three, four, five, depending on how many I'm exporting. And so I could do that and click done. But the vast majority of the time I have that turned off so I just keep the original file name. I like having the original file name even when I'm supplying images to clients because if they ever come back and say that JPEG was too small that you sent me, can you send me the full resolution version, I have to be able to somehow find that in Lightroom when they come back to me, and all they do is tell me the file name, unless I have good record keeping that can be difficult, but if I use the original file name then when I'm in Lightroom I can always search for that and very quickly find the original. Below that has an area for video and this simply means do you wanna include video files. So if you had an entire folder of images selected and you didn't realize there was a video file in there, should it skip over that video file or not. I don't do a lot with video so I rarely have to work with that area, but if you do have it include your video files here you could choose what file format is used and the quality setting. Under file settings this is where you choose the file format used for your photographs, and if I click here you can see the various settings that are available. The vast majority of the time so I'm supplying images to other people I use JPEG, but on occasion someone needs a TIFF file or even the Original, I usually have one of my presets is just called copy original to desktop because I might not know where that file is on my hard drive and if I haven't used the original format, that means if I want the original RAW file or something else I can have it put it there. Sometimes that's useful, I need to teach a class, I need that file, or I'm gonna adjust it when I'm at the client's location. Otherwise most of the time it's JPEG, on occasion it's TIFF. When you choose JPEG you'll have your quality setting over here on the right and with that this just determines how large the file will be and the quality, once you get this up to about 90 or above you're not gonna visually notice much of a difference between the original and the JPEG, once you get into the middle range you're gonna start noticing it, but you might need that for the internet where you just want a very small file. On some websites it will tell you like if you're making a banner advertisement or something similar that the file can be no larger than a certain size, but let's say you get onto a new website and they want you to update a profile picture, you know, a picture of you, and it says it cannot be above, you know, 200K in size, well this is where you can have it figure out the quality setting for you to limit it below a particular file size. Rare I need to do that, but on occasion a website will tell me that it requires a certain size no larger than. Here is something called your color space, it's a personal preference what you use here, there will be a lot of arguments about what's the right choice here, but just so you know what it means, this determines what the most vivid colors are you can have on you picture. In most average photographs of just like a person standing in the landscape the setting that's used here would not matter, the time that it would matter is when you have very vivid colors, you have the picture of an extremely vivid flower or you have a neon sign that's glowing really a vivid color, then if you use sRGB it's gonna limit the range of colors the most out of these choices. If you use AdobeRGB you can have more vivid colors in that picture. And if you use ProPhoto RGB you gotta be really careful because you can have colors that are so vivid that they're more theoretical colors because they're colors that are more vivid than anything your screen could show, anything your printer could print, or possibly anything your eye could see, but theoretically it's that vivid. I mean it can go that far. So ProPhoto is only for those people that really know what they're doing with color and they like to push the limits of all their gear. So if you wanna know what I would suggest here it really depends on how you use your photographs. If you don't print your own photographs, if instead you send them to other people like a print house that makes them for you, puts them in the mail and sends them back to you, a lot of those print places will require you to have sRGB files or will prefer them. I would ask them if they prefer sRGB or if they can handle Adobe. If you print your own images, you have a printer sitting on your desk, it's an Epson or a Canon or whatever, I would suggest AdobeRGB because AdobeRGB is gonna allow you to have more colorful colors and you'll be able to use a wider range of what your printer is capable of doing, whereas if you use sRGB you'll never be able to get what your printer is capable of as far as how vivid the colors could go. It's gonna be limited too much. Having said that don't completely stress about this choice. On most photographs you would absolutely never notice the difference, the only time you would is when you have extremely vivid colors. So if you shoot extremely vivid content all the time then you'd have to think about this more, but if you shoot let's say portraits all the time I doubt you'd ever notice a difference. For me personally I have my own printer, I mainly have this set to AdobeRGB for a lot of things and ProPhoto on occasion when I really need to push it. Having said that if you know that an image is going to be used on the internet and that's its end purpose, it's about to go to Facebook, it's about to go on your website, or it's about to go into software that is not designed for professional publishing, it's going into a database let's say then I would suggest you use a setting called sRGB. Think of sRGB as for the internet and for nonprofessional uses. It doesn't mean it can't be used for professional stuff, but if you know it's being used for a nonprofessional purpose then you probably want to be in sRGB. Let's go down, then we have Image Sizing, your original files are whatever size your camera captured, oftentimes it's way too big to just email your friend to show an image, that kind of thing, so right here I can choose Resize to Fit, if I turned that off we'll get a full size image, and I usually have a few previews or a few presets for full size JPEG, full size TIFF, just in case somebody needs the full size image, but then I will also create some resized ones, and then down here is where you type in the maximum width and height and the numbers that are in here right now are the width and height of an HDTV in case you're not familiar with those numbers and I can do this in either pixels or inches. So if you know somebody needs an eight and a half by maximum size, that kind of stuff, I might actually type in 11 by 11, all that means is whatever the widest dimension is will end up being 11 inches. It means fit within an 11 by 11 box. And over here is resolution, resolution is ignored in general when you use things online. This is used when printing and it means how small are the little specs that make your image, the pixels. If this number is too low your image might look pixelated, jaggy, when it's printed, and if it's too high you have much more information than you need and it'll just print very slowly, and any sharpening you have applied to the picture won't be very effective. So you want it to be in a okay range. For printing usually between 240 and 300, you're fine. And for onscreen that number doesn't matter, instead for onscreen you wanna be thinking over here in the width and height and pixels. Find out the width and height and pixels that somebody needs, that's what's used on screen, that number's ignored. So I'm gonna make this so it's for HDTV. Then here we have output sharpening and it wants to know should we sharpen this for our screen or for printing. Why is there a different amount of sharpening for those two things? Well what happens is when you print something it doesn't look as sharp as it looked on screen. And so you oversharpen it when you print it. Whereas on screen you see every little pixel that makes up the image and if you oversharpen it you can tell, so you don't wanna be too aggressive with sharpening for onscreen. So just choose if it's for onscreen use or print, and then is it on cheaper glossy, I'm sorry, matte paper, or more expensive glossy paper. On the right side then you can choose how much sharpening you want, and this is kind of a personal preference, standard will be good for most people, but if in general you find that your images to your taste looks a little too sharp, you can tend towards low or not sharp enough, you can get used to High, but usually there's a, you pretty much get used to the setting you like here and you use it all the time, 'cause you have a personal preference for how sharp things should be. We go down to metadata and here is where we decide if we've tagged our images with any keywords, and keywords is something we'll do in a different session, should they be included with that exported file or not. And that would be if we have the word All here, do you see the two with the word All in it? If those are chosen then your keywords will be included and if these two were chosen then your keywords would not be. Here we can watermark our images because oftentimes when I post images on social media I'll put a little watermark on 'em. It's a personal preference, some people hate watermarks, other people really like having them, and this is where you can do it. If you click on the watermark checkbox then here you get a pop up menu where you can choose from various presets. I will cover that in a few minutes once we're done with the rest of this dialogue. Then finally at the bottom there's a choice called Post-Processing which means what should it do when it's done exporting that picture. And if I go in here most of the time you have it set to do nothing, but you could have it show it in the Finder, let's say that I told it to save images into the folder called Portfolio For Projector, well when it's done it can pop open that folder for you 'cause you might not remember where it is stored in your hard drive. Or when you're done exporting it could have it open it in Photoshop or in a different application, so if you knew you were gonna export it to a certain size, to pop it open to another program you could include that right in the preset itself. You can also do some things where it would send it over to Photoshop and apply some actions to it, but most of the time that's set to do nothing. So it's not very exciting looking through all those settings, is it, there is a tremendous number of settings, it's almost mind numbing, and when you first get in Lightroom you have an image and you're like I need to give this to somebody else so I guess I gotta export it, so you head in here and then your brain just turns into mush because you're like there's too many settings in here, and that's where presets come in. You only need to look through the full set of settings once to get it to set up to approximately what you want, then on the left side is where your presets are added, you hit the add button and now you can name this collection of settings as a preset, and I'm gonna name this to remind me what size things were, that was 1920 by 1080, and what file format it was because I often vary it, and I'm trying to think of what else I need to have out of this, I'll say 1920 by 1080 JPEG to Desktop, therefore it would remind me where does it go, what file format, what size, that type of thing. And I'm gonna put it in a new folder, I'm just gonna call CL for Creative Live Presets, and I created the new folder just by going to this little folder pop up right at the top, new folder. So there it is, I hit create, and now instead of going through all those things again all I do the next time I need a different preset is I go to my list of presets, I click on this exact one, and it loads in all the settings for it, and then I just think up well what other sizes might I need to use. And I just go in here to the image sizing area and maybe that size for an HDTV is too big to email to my buddies, that's a pretty big picture, maybe I wanna do close to half that, maybe I do one that's 800 by 800 pixels with all the other settings identical. Then I just click the add button on the left side to add a new preset and I call that 800px for pixels, JPEG to Desktop. And then maybe I need a tiny one for something, maybe there are certain websites I use where you just upload the little thumbnails or that's what I send to clients possibly, if so just dial in different numbers, hit the add button, and create as many of these as you might possibly need. And therefore you don't have to look at every setting that's here, you click back on the closest preset to what you want, and then modify the settings. Now I'm actually, this will feel a little weird, I'm not gonna click Export, I'm gonna click Cancel, and you'd think that would cancel everything we just did, but it doesn't. The moment you hit the Add button to add a preset and you clicked Okay, that part's done and it can't be canceled. It's the process of exporting whatever file I currently have selected that's being canceled. So I'll do that, and now let's make sure that this works. I'm gonna select a bunch of images here, I'll go to the file menu, choose Export with Preset, and now I can see down here a folder called CL Presets and there are the two presets I just made. To use them all I do is highlight one, let go, and up here it says now we're exporting five files. And when it's done I should be able to hide Lightroom and right on my desktop right here we have five files that have been scaled to the exact dimensions that I told it to use. So once you get those presets established and set up it's really simple to get a picture out of Lightroom to somebody else, and let's say somebody comes up with a special request, I need a picture with the longest dimension to be 2600 pixels, and you're like okay fine, you come over here and you know it's not in your presets because that doesn't sound like something you'd typically use, so you simply choose Export, and you don't glance through everything here, you get to the closest preset you got, let's say this one, and all I'm gonna do is change one setting. They want it 2600, I'll just type in 2600 for both of these so the widest dimension ends up being that and now I'll click the Export button, so I'm doing kind of a one off Export based on a preset, but then I modified the settings. If that's gonna be a normal client from now on, that was a request, I would hit the add button on the left to add it as a preset. But if it's a one time use I just type in the numbers and right down here, Export button, and I'll get that one file exported very quickly. So even though the export dialogue looks real complicated you don't need to really dial into it all that deep very often. Yes. On that example you just did that where you downloaded those or exported those images, you had anchors what 10, 1920 by the width and 1080 by the height, but there was some of them there that were both horizontal and vertical. So I probably should have put in 1920 by 1920 if that was the case, but in this particular case what I was thinking of was not what the widest or tallest dimension should be, but that I want it to fit on an HDTV, and that's the limit of an HDTV. And so in that particular case it was appropriate, but if what it was is I want the widest dimension to be 1920 then the preset should've been structured differently, I should've gone in here when I chose Export and if I get to that preset if I type in 1920 by 1920 then it'll mean whatever the longest dimension is, and that means it wouldn't be good for an HDTV because a vertical image will be too tall, it'll be 1920 pixels tall when a TV is only 1080. You know what I'm talking about there? So it really depends on what the request was and that's why over here if you look at the naming, on this one I listed both the width and the height, so it was for a very specific width height, whereas this one I only listed one dimension, 800px, because that means either side, I don't know which one it'll be 'cause I have typed in 800 by 800, okay? So but it's a good thing to think about. So I end up having a bunch of presets and this list just keeps getting a bit longer as time goes on and on occasion I should go in there and clean it up because there are some that I might not use that often, but let's just look at a few of them. Here is 1920 JPEG with Best of Ben Badge, that means it's watermarked. So if I wanna put it on a website it's the size of an HDTV in general, but it's got a watermark. Here is one of the same dimensions, but it doesn't have a watermark. Here is one that says to Portfolio for Projector folder, that's where when I'm done with an image I think it's a Portfolio worthy image I choose that and it automatically files it away in that special folder where my Portfolio is, great. It's just a bunch of things to cover, here's iPad Pro, well I look up, I go to Apple's website and I say what is the width and height of my iPad Pro because I wanna prepare some images specifically for this. Well you can look that up on their website just like you can look up the resolution of any computer screen or anything else, I'll usually make a preset for that. Here is one for my desktop which might be the resolution of this particular screen I work on. All sorts of things. Here's ones with different Facebook sizes that I, those are just kind of standards that I use for Facebook, all that kind of stuff. There's my full size sharpened TIFF if somebody needs the full quality of the image, all that kind of stuff. So you probably are gonna end up with eight, 10, 12 main presets that you go to every day to get any images out, and when you need to deviate from that you just go to the File Menu, choose Export, click on the closest preset you got, and then if it was somebody that was asking for a different file format you drill in the file settings and they said they needed a TIFF, so fine, choose TIFF. And then they say they needed a certain size, type it in here, but you don't need to look through everything, base it on a preset, modify, hit Export just to get a specialty export out of there. Yes. Is there a way to copy those settings from one computer to another? That's an interesting idea and I'm certain there are, but what I have to do is look just for a moment at where that will most probably be. I'm gonna go into my preferences, this is my assumption of where it'll be. I'm going to my preferences and under preferences and it'll be a weird spot that I go to, there is this thing called End Marks, and I'm gonna click there and there's a choice called Go to End Marks Folder. This is a preset, these things called End Marks, and you need to put them in a particular location. I'm gonna go there and see if I can find the presets for exporting. Because this is where, there they are, Export Presets. So there is a place on your hard drive where they're stored and if you look at what's in this particular folder there's a whole bunch of different kinds of presets. Here are my developed presets when I'm in the developed module and I have presets, here's those Export Presets, remember we created the ones called CL Presets, and those are our two files right there. That's all it was creating and there's a bunch of other kinds of presets that are in here. I just needed to know how could I navigate to that folder and if you wanna know how to get there at least on a Macintosh this is the path. I don't wanna remember that path, I don't know about you, so I try to just think of whether there is a feature in Photoshop that sends me over to the presets folder, and this is where I could remember one. I'm sure there are multiple areas, but if you go to your preferences under Interface there is a choice called End Marks, and I know that in that menu is a choice that sends me over to the folder where End Marks are stored, and I know that's in the same location as where my Export Presets are. I'm sure there's a more efficient way of getting there, but. So then you would just copy those over to the new, yeah. Yep, you would copy that folder called Export Presets, you'd go to your other machine and you'd find this same folder and you drag 'em in there, and the next time you launch Lightroom you would find those presets there. Great, thank you. And while you're at it you might wanna grab your developed presets and other kinds of presets that are in here if you're switching machines. Okay, now let's talk about one of the settings that we found in there, if I come in and choose Export one thing that we kind of skipped over was down near the bottom of this list was a section called Watermarking. It's just a little check box, and then there's a pop up menu where you can choose between various presets. And at the bottom of this menu is a choice called Edit Watermarks, and you can find that choice that it watermarks in other parts of Lightroom as well because it's not just when you're exporting your images that you can apply a watermark. If I choose Edit Watermarks it should bring me into a little editing window. Here it shows me a sample of whatever photo I happen to have selected and then on the right side I can create my watermark. There are two kinds of watermarks we can create. One is a text watermark and the other is a graphic, meaning based on a file that you would supply. If you use a text watermark then you type in the text that you would like down here in the bottom left of your screen, so I'll type in copyright Ben Willmore, whatever you want it to say. Then we can choose how it's styled in this section. You can choose the font, the style of the font, if it's aligned, left, center, right, and what color. And if you'd like it to separate from your image so that if it's white text and it happens to be over a white background you can have a little drop shadow underneath it, this would control the exact appearance of that drop shadow. Then there's a choice blow that called watermark effects and that's where you could lower the opacity so that it doesn't completely obscure your view of the picture. And you can decide how you want it to be scaled. Do you want it to fit the width of the picture, fill the entire frame, or would you like it to be proportional to the full size of the photo, and I can decide could it go halfway across the image like that. Below that you have a choice called Inset, and that means how far from the edge of the photograph should it be, should it be moved in a little bit from the left edge, should it be moved in a little bit from the bottom edge. And right now you notice it's in the bottom left corner, well if you scroll down you control that with this choice here called anchor. Do you wanna anchor it to the upper left corner, anchor it to the center, or wherever you'd like. Then if you would like it to go down the side of the picture let's say on the right edge, you have rotation icons, I can rotate it as many times and directions as I want, and then if I anchor it to the lower right it'd just be going up the side like that, it's a personal choice of yours. So that's how you create a text watermark. When you're done creating a text watermark you can go up to the top of your screen to this menu and save that as a new preset and I can call that maybe just so you know on a Mac to get the copyright symbol you hold down the Option key and you type the letter G. On Windows I think you have to type in some numbers and I don't know. Alt 0169. Okay, Alt 0169. I don't wanna remember that. Or just find another document, copy, paste, you know? Yeah. So anyway, Option G on a Mac or Alt some number, and I'm gonna name it. So I'm just calling it what the actual text is and then I said lower right ghosted, ghosted means lightened so you can see through it. I'll click Create and now I have a preset for that. Next we could create a graphic watermark, to do a graphic watermark you just switch to this area here or if you slide up to the top there's a choice called Image Options, and this is where you can choose a file, and if you choose a file it'll automatically switch over to that. So I'll hit the choose button and I'm gonna see if I have something I could use here as a watermark, I happen to have my signature. It'll be nice for a watermark, instead of it looks like an annoying watermark that some people don't like it just looks like you signed your picture. So there's Ben's Signature, it in general needs to be a png file, png, although it might be able to work with a couple of other file formats, but I mainly use png. And now I'm gonna bring my opacity up so I can see it a little bit better, and on this particular photo it doesn't look that great because it's black and it's on a dark part of the picture, but if I rotate it enough times to get it straight and I might anchor it up near the top you can see it's just black text. If I need it to be something else I'd probably wanna have different version of this like maybe a white one or a gray one or something else. But you can see that it's my signature. You can drag this to resize it and when you drag it all it's doing is changing this slider right here, so if you watch that slider when I drag, you see that it's just changing the number? And you can drag either corner, that kind of stuff. The little circle I think represents where it's pinned to or anchored to, so it's at the lower left corner, that type of thing. And once you have that positioned the way you'd like it to, again, you come up here and you can save preset and I'll call it. When I'm done I hit the done button and now anywhere within Lightroom that I find the choice called watermark, it won't just be here when exporting, you'll also find it when printing. I can click here and I can choose between those various presets. There's one other thing in there I didn't mention, these little arrows if you're happening to wonder what they are, if I have more than one image selected right now in my Lightroom catalog, right now I think I only have one, this would allow me to switch between the images to see what that watermark looks like on the various images, but I believe hat if I come in here and click cancel I only have one image selected. Had I done that and then when I was in here if I used those, do you see, I'm just switching between the images, and therefore I can see how lousy a black signature is. Probably wanna create a file with a white signature. The reason I have that signature is when I'm printing, I like to, you know, sign my work just outside of the image with that. So you just have to spend a little bit of time to establish your export presets and create some watermarks, sometimes watermarks are not for straight up copyright purposes or signing it, sometimes you call it proof copy or something on top to let people know it's not final, that type of stuff, and create whatever you think is appropriate for your particular business. So then why don't we get into talking about printing. In most programs if you wanna print isn't there a standard keyboard shortcut for printing? Wouldn't it be Command P on a Mac? I'm assuming Control P on Windows? Well that's a standard keyboard shortcut for sending you over to the print module in Lightroom, I just typed Command P. In the print module it's somewhat similar to being in the Export dialogue where there's just a boatload of settings, and it can be somewhat overwhelming to go through all of them. But just like when we were in the Export area, we have presets, and that's what's really nice. When you're in the print area on the left side of your screen you have something called the Template Browser and that's where you're going to find some templates that come with Lightroom, and if you wanna see a preview of what these templates do there's a preview area just above that, if you expand it then hover over these without clicking and you'll see that changed to indicate what kind of layouts each one of these presets creates. So instead of going through every single setting that's on the right side of your screen you probably wanna find the preset that's closest to what you're looking for and start there, and then modify the settings to get where you really need to be. So let's talk about a few details that are in here. First, on the lower left are two buttons, Page Setup and Print Settings, on Windows there might be just one 'cause it combines these settings into one. So if I wanna choose what printer we're gonna print to I can hit Page Setup and right here I choose the printer I'm thinking of. Below that I can choose the paper size that I would like to print to, in my case I'm gonna use a letter size paper and I'm gonna make it so it's borderless. And if I want it horizontal or vertical I could set that up here as well. Click okay. Next to that is a button called Print Settings and that'll bring up what you would usually see when you're printing, like if you go to any program and print these are the settings that would usually come up, the main place you need to go to here is something called printer settings 'cause that's where you control the settings your printer will use when it's printing. And under this little area called Basic is where you can specify what kind of paper the printer thinks is loaded 'cause that can control how much of a gap it leaves to let the paper go through the printer, that kind of stuff, it can also control what ink is being used, if it's the glossy inks or the matte inks. And you can choose things like what resolution it's printed with, the higher the resolution usually the slower it's gonna print, but you might be able to see the tiniest bit more detail. And if you wanna do things like high speed printing 'cause you're in a hurry, but the quality is a little bit lower when you use that. But you set up what you'd like to use here. You click Save, so now Lightroom knows both what printer you're printing to, the size of paper you're printing to, and your printer knows the settings you wanna use when you print. Then on the right side of your screen you can set up and modify the layout. Now if the template that I have is just right it's exactly what I need, then I don't need to look at most of this stuff, and I'll collapse it down and just concentrate on the stuff at the very bottom. We can print to a printer or let's say we don't have a printer on our desk, instead I send out for my prints. Well then you can print to a JPEG file and therefore you would send that JPEG file to somebody else and they might print it for you, but it might be that you want to print it where you have six pictures on a page so you wanna set that up first before you send it off to them. You have draft mode printing if you'd like it, that'll speed up the printing process, but the quality might be a little bit lower. So most of the time I'd have that off. Down here you have print resolution and you can force it to use a particular resolution, but in general you can leave that off and let Lightroom decide because Lightroom knows the printer you're printing to, it knows the resolution on your picture, and it can handle most of that. It's only if you've read about a particular technique or if you have a particular image that is fidgety that you have to force it to a particular resolution to print properly, you could use that. Otherwise you don't need to. Down here is for sharpening and whenever you print an image it looks softer than it looked on the screen, and so here it's gonna sharpen your image to compensate for that. And you just need to let it know is it a matte or a glossy paper you're printing to and then what's your personal preference for how sharp your images are, and it is a personal preference, some people love really sharp looking images and some people think any kind of sharpening looks like it's too much, so you can start with standard and then deviate until you figure out what you like. If you have any, let's say panoramas that have a smooth gradation across the sky over a really wide distance, there is a light blue on the right side of the sky and there is a slightly deeper blue on the other side, and it takes a long way to get to there. Then you could turn on this checkbox called 16 Bit Output and it would send extra data to your printer, more shades of color to your printer to try to keep those smooth transitions smooth. If you ever notice when you print a panorama and the sky looks like it's got kind of banding to it, this is one area that might help. It doesn't always help though. It's gonna make it print slower though, it's a lot more data. Below that is Color Management and that is where Lightroom learns how to shift the colors in your picture to make the colors look right on your particular printer. That's where you can click and tell it what kind of paper and printer you're using. You're only gonna find certain choices within this list which is a really nice thing, because most people print to a very limited range of papers. If you don't find the type of paper that you print to listed then you can choose Other, and when you do this comes up, in this list all of the printing profiles that you have installed on your computer. And so if I print to this particular printer and I just started printing to a kind of paper called premium glossy, I turn on the checkbox next to that to make it appear in the list. If you still don't find the paper you print to within that that means you have not installed that profile. You'd wanna go to your printer or paper manufacturer's website and search for what's called an ICC profile for their paper, and if you installed it you can get it to show up in this list. But it's nice that you're able to limit the list, so if you only printed three kinds of paper you don't go through a really long list to begin with. So I'm printing to Premium Luster paper. There is a checkbox down here called Print Adjustment, theoretically you should never have to use it because if you have a profile that accurately describes how your printer prints on the kind of paper you're putting on and your screen has been calibrated and profiled so it's trying to precisely show you what you're getting, then what you see on your screen should look very similar to what you see on your printer. But that's not always the case because sometimes you're printing on paper where you never have a profile for it, it's just a paper you bought at a discount store and they don't make a profile for it. Or sometimes something with your printer is different than other things and it doesn't look right, so you can click on this checkbox called Print Adjustment and if you find your images look a bit dark when printed you could brighten them up with this. You will not see the image itself change, it's just the next time you print the end result will be a little brighter. Or you could boost the Contrast if you needed to, and on occasion you need to do that because like for instance I use that a lot when I'm on somebody else's machine, and they won't let me mess with the way their screen is set up to make it look more accurate, they won't let me mess with things with their printer to make it more accurate, I just need to print something, and I'm like this thing is dark and looks terrible, so I bump up that brightness really high and maybe add a little contrast and try it again, and but otherwise if you have a properly calibrated screen and an accurate printer profile you should rarely need to use that. Then at the bottom there is the button called Print, that's gonna send it off to the printer. Now so far we've used just a template, we went to the left side of our screen, we moused over these various templates and we clicked. Well let's see what happens if we choose a more complex template and let's see how we can modify those templates to get more interesting results. I'm gonna click on a more complex template and notice that it just took the same picture that I had and it put in there multiple times. That's because if I scroll up here to the top we have a choice in here called a Picture Package, that would be like when you go get your portrait made, I remember when I was a kid I went to, you know, some department store to get my picture taken, and they said, do you want a Picture Package? I'll have three five by sevens and three wallet sizes and whatever, this is your equivalent. And if you want to control what size images they would end up getting right here is an area called Cells, and here it would a two by two and a half inch image, a three by seven, a five by seven, and so on, and if you were to just click one of these you're gonna find it adds one of those to your picture package. It'll create new pages as needed and you could tell it what kind of picture package you wanna generate. If these sizes are not the sizes you'd like to offer for your picture package there's a little triangle next to each one and there is a choice called Edit. So I could, whoops, come in there and choose Edit, and now I can tell it exactly how many inches wide and tall I'd like to have my pictures to offer them. So if I put in five by three let's say, click Add, now that choice, that preset right here just changed to five by three. And if you don't like having the number that we have here you can drag these around to various pages, so there's a new page button, if I click new page and I say no, that one I want on its own page, and I want it along with this other bigger one, you can do that with that. There are other things we can set up in here. Instead of using a Picture Package let's choose a simpler one, let's go where we have a single image, this preset is for that. This choice is called Single Image / Contact Sheet. Now if I come down here to my layout let's say I just wanna print out small versions of all my pictures, so I can show here's the client, all the images that I captured. Well if I use the Single Image / Contact Sheet setting then here I have Rows and Columns, and I can tell it how many rows across would I like, and if you look in the Preview on the left side you can see I only have one image selected right now so it's only putting one image in there. I can go to the bottom of my screen, this is called the Film Strip, it's like a little mini library and I could say I wanna work on more images. So I'll just select those images and move back up here. Well that's the Film Strip. But anyway, I can choose this, after I told it the number of rows and columns that I would like I can fine tune the results. Here we have Cell Spacing which is how much space is in between the photos. And right now you'll notice that the photos are being cropped, like here this is my wife's leg sticking up with none of her body sitting there, it looks kind of odd. Well there are some settings up here, I believe it's under Image Settings, and you see that it says Zoom to Fill, so it's zooming out to fill that space. If I turn that off then it's gonna scale 'em down just to fit within it instead of fill it. There's also a choice of rotating to fit, if you turn that off none of the images would be rotated. There's another choice here called Repeat One Photo per Page and if I did that then these would all be the same photograph and if I had five photos selected I'd have five paged that'd print. And you can see that down here because I have 12 images selected it says page one of 12. But if I don't say I wanna repeat one photo per page they are all on this page. Other settings that are in here, they're pretty self-explanatory. Stroke Border means put a line around the edge. If I turn it on and click over here, this would choose the color, and this is how wide it is. Sometimes it's hard to determine why is there such a gap between these or other things and so there are guides you can turn on. If I turn on Show Guides that gives me a better sense for how things are set up. I can see how much of a margin there is on each side, I can see that where the little spacing is between my cells and I can actually see the size of the cells and sometimes that makes it easier to visualize but once you have it set up you can turn off Show Guides so that you just see the clean image. Then we have this area called Page and here is where I can put in a background color, so if I don't want a white background, instead I'd like gray or some other color, I can click here and choose any shade I'd like. I'll leave mine as white though. And you can put in an Identity Plate. An Identity Plate is something we've talked about on a different day, it's when we customize Lightroom, if you look in the upper left corner of Lightroom you see how mine name is up there, that's my identity plate. Well we can take whatever is in that particular area and overlay it. And so you can actually have more that one of those defined and if you don't remember where we went to do it there are a couple of different places you can go, but one of them is if you right click in the upper left up here where you see your identity plate you'll find the choice of Edit Identity Plate. You can create more of those. So if I look over here on my identity plate, it's turned on, there's a little triangle there and that's where I can switch between preset identity plates 'cause you can create a bunch of them. And one of them I have is my signature. I can click on that identity plate once it's on my little sample of my print here and drag it around, so if I wanna put it at the bottom centered or anything like that I can. One thing that's nice here that I wish they had when we were watermarking our image is there is a checkbox for overriding the color. That's only gonna work though when I believe it is a text based graphic where if your identity plate is usually read you can choose override color and force it to a different color. I don't believe it can do it here with a graphic. There is a checkbox to render on every image and that's where I could make it so it has my signature on top of every single one of these pictures, but there are some times you might wanna do that, if you want it to say proof only or something like that, but there are other reasons for that. If you remember earlier today we talked about watermarking, well here we could watermark all those pictures. Click on Watermark and I can come in here and say I want my best of Ben Badge, and you'd have to zoom up rather closely on these pictures to see it, but they're all, they should all now be watermarked with what I've chosen there. And then you have just various other options. So that was a choice at the top that was called Single Image / Contact Sheet and we're just defining a grid that's gonna contain those images. There is a last choice in here called custom package and there are some presets over here in the template browser that start with the word custom and if you hover over those you can get an idea for them and that's where you don't have a consistent grid, instead here we have, it's set up with three small images at the bottom, one in the middle, and it doesn't automatically populate it with your pictures. Instead you go to the bottom of your screen to the Film Strip, grab the image you wanna use and drag it up there to tell it where you'd like it to be, come back down to the bottom of your screen, grab another one, drag it where you'd like it to be and do that until you get all of these that you would like to include. I know I'm saying I'm picking the best images for a square, but, and then if you click and drag you're gonna actually move that piece, and if instead of wanting to move the piece you would like to move the picture within it you can hold down, I believe it's the Command key and the Command key would allow me, that's Control in Windows, to reposition what is inside of each one. Whereas if I don't have it held down I'll be moving each piece. But you can manually move each piece if you wanna make your own layout you can move this around as much as you want, you could hold down the Option key and drag, that would make a copy, Option is Alt in Windows, so then I could say, you know, if I want three of consistently sized images across the bottom I could just have one sitting there, hold Option, which means drag a copy, and then I know that one's the same size. Hold Option again, drag a copy, that kind of stuff, and I could make my own layout. Also on the right side you still have those Cells things, so if you want preset sizes you could have it put them in there for you just by clicking on these various buttons. Once you've modified one of these templates, maybe you've made some of these pieces overlap and such, you can save your own templates. So if you modify the settings, you love what you got, and then just hit this plus sign and here just like when we're saving other kinds of presets, you can create a new folder to put them in and you can name your template. So when I print I don't frequently think about all those settings you just saw. Instead when I wanna print I grab the image I wanna print, I type Command P to go to Print Module, and on the left side I go to the Template Browser, and hopefully I've needed to make a similar print in the past, you know, a similar kind of set up, and if so I probably gonna have a template for it. I click on my template, then I look over at my image and I think, well what would I need to change in that particular template. Maybe on this particular case it's the Image Settings, I don't want it to Zoom to Fit, so I just turn that off. I don't have to think about all the other settings, I just hit the Print button. Then let's say I have this all set up and this is how I like to print my images generically when I give them to a client. You know, like if I go take a photograph for somebody I usually give them a gift for being in my photograph and it will be one of these prints. Now here is something that's pretty cool. If I got everything dialed in the way I want it look at the top of my screen, top right, do you see where it says Create Saved Print? I'm gonna click that. And I'm gonna give this a name, I'm gonna call it eight and a half by 11, and I'm gonna call this Glossy Print, although I think it was actually Luster, Luster Print. And I'm gonna tell it to put it inside, let's not put it inside anything. And I'll include the selected photo, click create. The next time I go back to the Library Module, you know how we have collections over here on the left side and collections on what we talk about in a different session, but we're gonna have a special collection that looks like a tiny printer. And it has the name I gave it and it remembers the one image. Then if later on I decide I'm working on a different picture and maybe when I'm working on that different picture, maybe I come in here to my Portfolio and I decide well, I wanna print this one, and I wanna print this one, and I wanna print that one using the exact same layout, exact same settings. I'm just gonna drag those images down here on top of that collection, so it says now there's four of them, and if I need to print 'em all I need to do is click on the name of that and then if I type Command P I'm in the Print Module, I have all those images, then I just hit the Print button. It remembered all the settings. And so it's really nice that you can set up not only a template for how the things are laid out, but what's really nice about these little collections is they retain not only the layout of how you were printing, but they also contain the paper settings, like that was for Matte Paper, and the dimensions of the paper. So you can set up a few of these if you have standardized sizes and layouts you print why not create a few of these print collections and whatever you need to print drag your images on top of it, type Command P and hit the Print button, and they'll be ready for you, and it can really nicely streamline your workflow. So there's all sorts of things we can do in print, the only other thing I wanna mention about it is that, that choice that we had to print to a JPEG file is useful not just for printing. If you wanna upload to social media a grid of nine pictures, then upload it as one JPEG. Well Lightroom doesn't really have choices designed for that, but you can go to the Print Module, you can find probably a template or make your own that has a six up version of your picture and in the lower right where you usually choose your print settings that's where you have the choice if you wanna print to a printer go to a JPEG file. Just say you want a JPEG, hit Print, and it'll actually come out as a JPEG that you could upload unto social media or use for anything else. You could even reimport it into Lightroom if you wanted it to sit there as part of your Portfolio or something else. There's all sorts of things you can do with it. So questions in general about what's found in the print area. Yeah. Could you do that and then just drag it to Facebook to put it on a Facebook page? Yes, yeah you could, so if I had took this one to the Print Module and I found a template, I think there's some in the Lightroom Templates. Let's say this one, and I chose the images I'd like to use for it. Let's say it's this, but we probably don't want to. Zoom to Fit. And I just wanna show it in multiple images like this, however it happens to be, it's in the lower right where it's called Print Job that you're gonna find the choice called Printer, just switch it over to JPEG File, and then you can choose if you want it sharpened, what your JPEG quality is, and you could even type in Custom File Dimensions if you know that you want a particular size, and then here it says Print to File, that would create a JPEG for you, and you would be able to upload that JPEG. Yeah. A couple of things. One, wouldn't you do that just using the publish services? You can do it using publish services, but you have to then set up your username and password for Facebook and there is a too different way connection between it, some people like that, some people don't, we'll cover that in a different session though, it's just beyond what we would do here. So yeah. Also in the printing, you're talking a lot about JPEG, do you typically print JPEG or TIFF? I don't print anything, I print from Lightroom, and therefore it's printing from the original file, meaning there's no intermediate file created, there's no JPEG or TIFF involved, my original files are RAW files so you could say I'm printing the RAW, but what's happening is Lightroom is sending the printer driver whatever it needed to print, I'm printing directly from Lightroom. Yeah. But if I was going to print somewhere else and send my files in as long as I don't plan on modifying the files further I find that JPEG with a setting on 90% quality or higher usually works fine, the one instance when I might wanna use something other than JPEG is if I had a wide panorama with a sky that varied just a little bit over a really wide distance where I'd be worried about a little more banding and things, I might use a TIFF there because then I wouldn't have it simplify the image with JPEG compression, but otherwise normal landscape images and people images, JPEG at 90% plus quality usually works fine for printing. Okay. All right, we have finished one week. In one week we've one an overview of Lightroom, we've done a little bit of adjustment, we've learned how to get our images out of Lightroom. It's just a lot of the basics in Lightroom so far, haven't done any big things. Then we're gonna progress now over the next three weeks and we're gonna learn how to refine our images to a much greater extent and we're gonna start learning about how to use the specialized features that are within Lightroom. Finally, if you wanna find me on the internet and various social media sites here are some of your options and if you wanna find my main website that's, I hope you enjoyed today's session.

Welcome to CreativeLive’s comprehensive Lightroom® workshop! Join one of our best software instructors, Ben Willmore, to learn how to process and organize your images more efficiently - and have more time to spend doing the stuff that matters. In this series of lessons, you’ll learn how to:

  • Import and organize your images
  • Optimize your photos and workflow
  • Make your images searchable within the program
  • Exporting, printing, and troubleshooting

When you purchase this course you’ll gain access to both an enduring resource to build your skills and a community with which to share the fruits of your work. Ben will provide a workbook that acts as a reference guide.

Don't have Photoshop yet? Get it now so you can follow along with the course!

Software Used: Adobe Lightroom CC 2015.2 - 2015.3



  • Creative Live is a godsend and, in my opinion, Ben Willmore is one of their best instructors - if not the best. He is as natural and thoughtful a teacher as he must be a learner. He knows a lot! He is clear about what his students want and need to know, from basic to advanced concepts, and he is constantly aware that he has students watching who are of different knowledge levels. He never takes off, leaving the less experienced behind - instead he moves forward at a good pace while referring back to create mental links during the progression; good for all levels. I work with Lightroom already and so have both experience and questions about how to work more efficiently and creatively. This bootcamp is definitely helping me. I've watched others of Ben's classes, and they always help. Thank you, Ben and Creative Live.
  • Thanks again Ben, for your fabulous teaching and your ability to actually teach and not just show and tell...As other people have commented you have a gift to teach in the way that you do. I have purchased many of your courses and was not going to purchase this, thinking I have all your prior courses...alas, you are just too good!!! I had to buy it in the end and thanks again for all the goodies, so worth the money: Really looking forward to June for your Photoshop class. Once again, I have taken many of your photoshop courses but you keep adding such great info that I cannot resist...see you in June!! Keep up the fabulous work, byw, I love all the yoga poses, what fun you both have with this idea...
  • I have had the privilege of participating in this excellent class from the front row seat in the Creative Live San Francisco studios. After only a few of the 20 sessions, I quickly appreciated the many features and benefits of using LightRoom to organize and edit all of my images. If you're like me, you've had access to LR for a while, and have opened it and fumbled through the myriad of complex menus a few times, then have gone back to using Photoshop. After these classes with Ben Willmore, (and they're not even done yet), I have tackled the job of re-organizing and keywording tens of thousands of images that reside on various backup drives, many of which I've never even had time to look at. I now have a path forward to enjoying what is in my archives rather than letting them gather dust. I have made HDR images, panoramas, slide shows and Blurb books with ease based on the techniques learned in class. Throughout the class, we lobbed many questions at Ben, and every single time he knew the answer in an instant, or could give us a work-around or several ways to do what we're trying to accomplish in LR. His deep knowledge of LR (and PS) simply cannot be matched, and he's a natural trainer. The days have flown by, and after each day I can't wait to get home and start working on my images. Regardless of your type of photography - professional, avid amateur, or hobbyist - if you shoot and edit a lot of images, LR can be a huge benefit in your workflow. Even if you think you already sort of know how LR works, there is still plenty of useful info in this course that will help you to extract maximum benefit from Lightroom. For me it has been nothing short of transformative!