Olympus® E-M1 Fast Start

Lesson 10 of 12

Accessory Port Menu and Camera Operation

 

Olympus® E-M1 Fast Start

Lesson 10 of 12

Accessory Port Menu and Camera Operation

 

Lesson Info

Accessory Port Menu and Camera Operation

The next tab is one that you probably do not see because you have to go into the last tab in order to turn this on, which we haven't gotten to yet, and you probably don't want to do it because you're once you see what's in here, you probably are not going to need it. If you are working with the olympus pen pal system, which was their old wifi system built for cameras that don't have wifi, you could go in and set up some of the parameters for that in here, one of the options and there is you can create an album in the camera and wife, I send it through the pen pal system to the olympus website, and this is where you could set up some of the parameters about that particular feature. If you want to add on an electronic viewfinder, why would you want to add on elektronik, the finder, to a camera that already has an electronic viewfinder? I don't know, but it is possible because we have that access report in the top, and you could go in and adjust that dvf from here, and that is a very shor...

t, useless menu system that we just went through right there. So down to the set menu which is our last won the final general set up of the whole camera obviously your time and date now let me double check I was estimating the time that I would hit this point I was estimating two forty five and it's two sixteen not bad for guessing about this four months ago when I made this slide language of course what language you speak there the monitor color and temperature the temperature of brightness of the monitor you probably are not going to need to change this but if it seems to be wacky and color you could fix it the record view when you shoot a picture how quickly does it go in or how long does it show you a picture in the playback mode on on previous sl ours I liked shooting a picture and holding it so I could see what I got when I started working with the marylise cameras something fundamentally was different and that was when you look through the viewfinder that is a preview of what your final picture is going to look like. You don't need to look at the back of the camera anymore to see if the white balance came out right or the exposure came out right because you get to see that all at a time and so I found as a faster operation with the marylise cameras just to turn off that's setting at all at first you may want to leave it on kind of as a beginner user down two, three seconds but once you get used to it, just leaving it turned off next up eyes the wifi settings and this is where you can go in and set up some of the controls on the wifi your past war password connection settings as well so you can kind of take a look through this if you're going to be doing wifi operation and that menu that we were at just before the set up menu could be turned on in this next little area and in fact, if you wanted to turn off the custom menu, you could but you definitely want to leave the custom menu, which is the little years you want to leave that one turned on because I think there's a lot of things in there that you're going to want to be going in and out of on a regular basis. Finally we get to firm where and actually the day that we recorded this as I was driving to work, they updated the firm where there is new firmware available it's one point four and the camera came out it was one point oh, and they've made subsequent adjustments and improvements to the camera one point three added that zero second shock and this new one point for ads better auto focus for people using the old four thirds lenses, they've improved the stabilization in the continuous autofocus mode, and they've made some additions to what you can do with wifi remote. Apparently, you can now use art filters and the custom self timer, and you can use the zoom operation if you have one of the olympus power zoom lenses. And so everyone needs to go out and download the new firmware because it's brand new and almost no matter when you watch this it's goingto be something that you can get free from olympus now, in order to get this free firmware upgrade here's, what you need to do there are probably several different olympus sites around the world that you can go to. But here in the united states, I go to olympus america dot com, I go to their support page, and I look for their software downloads, and I need to download onto my computer this olympus digital camera update or it's, a little bit of software that you need to keep on your computer, at which point you plug your camera into your computer and start this olympus digital camera update er and it will automatically go into your camera could do have to have your camera turned on, and you didn't have to remove the memory card, which is always a little tricky, and I forget that one and in the connect camera we connect the camera to the computer and in the storage mode you need to select storage in order for this to update and then when you run this software your software will be connected directly up to your camera it'll look at what firm where is on there it will ask you about upgrading and then you can go ahead and up great and I will be upgrading my software tonight so I want to get the new stuff on there it's always good to have the latest software doesn't cost anything it's free of charge just takes I would allow about five to fifteen minutes depending on how fast year internet connection is in order for that to be done all right so let's do the operation of the camera and this is where we kind of gone through all the individual controls now what do we need to pay attention to when we go out and shoot real picture so first off what's my checklist when I go out and shoot with this camera the first thing is is I want to make sure the batteries charged it is in the camera I want to make sure that my memory card doesn't have any pictures from my last photo shoot they've been downloaded and put on the hard drive and backed up and I'm gonna go in I'm going to reform at that memory card I've kind of maybe made a quick stroll through the menus settings to make sure that I didn't have it someplace crazy the last time I was shooting, and then if I'm going to take like a big trip going to go to cuba or morocco, I'm going to make sure that my sensor is clean before I head off to the airport because I don't want to have to deal with the dirty sensor in a far off location it's much easier to deal with it at home, where I have all the right tools and accessories or access to repair shops for cleaning something now when it comes into operating the camera on a day to day basis, there's about ten regular controls that you're going to really want to know where they are and what they do and it's the ten that you see listed up here so let's, go ahead and set the camera up for a number of different vory basic and very common operations. The first one I want to do is what I call super simple operation, and actually this is more simple than I expect any of my students to use. This is the type of mode that you would put the camera in tow, hand it to somebody else to work with the p for program, it's going to set shutter speeds and apertures so you don't need to worry about those two I normally don't much care for auto isil but in a super simple operation automatically choose a nice so that will as a result choose a shutter speed fast enough so that you're not getting getting you're not going to get blur from hand holding the camera make sure your exposure compensation is at zero, so you're not getting overly bright or dark images the media ring have any set on the s p and trivia question? What is the s p stand forms and even remember I'll let you know it's electro selective pattern some fancy word that I think olympus probably came up with in the nineties on that's, the most multi make matrix teetering, teetering system that measures light in a multitude of different areas great overall system as a default, I leave my camera on auto our auto white balance excuse me and I will then change it as conditions change and so if I go in to a house and they have a lot of incandescent lamps, then I will switch it to that city, but for the most part I'll just leave it an auto until I see a change and one of the great things about these marylise cameras is that you get to see what it's going to look like before you even take the picture so you will know when to change by just looking at the image in screen focusing in single auto focus so the camera is going to focus on a subject and stop and not move until I press down on the shutter release button again focusing area all eighty one areas is going to choose whatever is closest to the camera, which in a general sense is a pretty safe way to go. You do have to be careful about subjects between the camera and the subject was it wants to focus on whatever is closest to the camera, but it's a good, quick way where the camera can look at a wide area to focus on, and for the drive mode I would just leave it in the single mode so that you take one picture with each press of the shutter. Now, as a reminder to everyone as I go through this in the hand out pdf, I have all of this outlined and explained in there as well itself. We're going too fast for you, you khun jacket, take it with you and read it out in the field. So for landscapes, you have a little bit more time. You want a lot of things in focus. I'm going to choose manual exposure, the next thing I'm gonna look at changing is my eyes, so I want to set that to the lowest setting possible to get the highest quality images. Next in my mind is I want things in focus I want depth, the field and I'm going to have to set the camera to achieve lots of depth of field which might be anywhere from half eight f thirty two depending on the lens and the condition the shutter speed will be the least important, especially if I'm using a tripod which you would hopefully be doing in your landscape work, in which case you will set whatever shutter speed is necessary according to your light meter but you're likely to be in a fairly slow shutter speed like a quarter of a second but that will depend on lighting conditions I'm going to go ahead and keep espn monitoring and auto white balance unless needs change for focusing, I'm just going to focus once and lock it in so single auto focus will work just fine and I don't want the camera to focus with all the areas I want to choose a small little area and be very precise about what I'm choosing to focus on which walk which rock which tree? What exactly do I want to be my focus point and for the drive mode a couple of options I would choose single if I was using the cable release that way I can fire the camera when and where I want exactly on the timing that I need or I'd use the two second self timer so I'm not moving the camera after I press the shutter release that gives me two seconds delay so that the vibrations will settle out there's no movement in the camera, so that is the landscape operation let's. Switch it over to a portrait scenario in this case, you're not going to be on a tripod. Most likely you're going to be a little bit more concerned about your shutter speed. You need it fast enough to stop your hand holding to the camera as well as your subjects potential movement as well. We're also often going for a very shallow depth of field. In these cases I do like working in manual exposure as well, and here kind of my first setting is to go with shallow depth of field toe, let in a lot of light with the lands and go with that very shallow depth of field. Look, I'm gonna want to choose the shutter speed probably one hundred twenty fifth of a second or faster to make sure that it stops the movement of my subject or my movement of the camera. And finally, I prefer to have the lowest isil possible, but I will bump it up if the light conditions make it necessary going to keep it in the espn metering, I'm going to keep it in the auto white balance. And for focusing I'm going to keep it in single auto focus I'm going to focus on the subject in particular I'm going to focus on their face and on their eye if possible because the eyes of the most important thing that you want to keep in focus and in order to do this I'm going to have to choose a very small area to focus on and so that small box is going to be the most valuable and for the motor drive leaving it on single and tiny my shots with their best expressions and gestures. So that is the portrait set up that I like to use next up is the action set up and I will mention right now that this camera is not the best camera in the world for shooting action of the mira lis cameras on the market today it's one of the best but when compared to the sl arthuis slr deals still do have an advantage over this so if you're heavily into shooting sports you're going to have to learn the system and work the system to its very finest to get the good results. I was out last week shooting a track and field event with this and I was getting some very nice results from it so it can do sports quite well but it's just not quite as consistent as some of the sl ours because of the focusing system that it uses in those cases I like to be in manual exposure so that I can specifically choose a fast enough shutter speed usually five hundredth of a second for faster I'm gonna want toe let in a lot of light because I am meeting a very fast shutter speed this is where having a faster f two point eight lands really pays off of course I like being at the lowest s o but the reality is with those faster shutter speeds you're probably going to need a higher s o four hundred is just the start if you're going to be shooting indoors it's probably going to be closer to thirty two and sixty four hundred the media ring at ps ps fine and the white balance at auto he is fine this is where you have a couple of choices in focusing my choice is c a f for continuous autofocus for most things I give a nod to the cf tracking mode you can give that a try and see if it works I have found it a little hard to control and direct and it kind of wants to do its own thing so it doesn't always do exactly what you expected to do and that could be really irritating when you're shooting sports and so give it a try see if it works for what you're doing it has the potential of even doing better if it can figure out exactly what's going on and for the focus area, this is where I would choose that group of nine it's very hard to keep that one small box on the a subject that is moving around in front of you and having that group of nine will give it a little bit more area in which to grab onto for the drive mode, you could use it in the continuous high or the continuous low mode, whatever you see fit for what you're shooting, and that is the action set up. All right? The final little set up for this class is going to be basic photography. This is how I would have the camera set up a lot of times in travel photography or how I might have the camera set up just at home when I'm heading out to take pictures, and I don't know what the next picture I'm going to take this, I will use a little bit of automation here aperture priority, and I will typically leave the aperture fairly wide open, maybe around f four, which will give me a reasonably fast shutter speed if I need to pull the camera out and get a quick shot. I like to leave the ice so as lowest possible, so that I am consciously aware of every time that I'm changing it and I'm always kind of resetting it back down to two hundred I hate having getting myself caught with the a too high of setting if I go out and shoot night pictures and then get up the next morning, I'll shoot a few pictures and realize center speed seem a little strange that's because you're so was still at sixty, four hundred from last night, so make sure you kind of keep that reset to two hundred on a regular basis and because we're in aperture priority, we need to pay attention to where our exposure compensation is again, we don't work with exposure compensation when we're in manual, but now we're back in aperture priority I would by default keep that set a zero and change it on as necessary basis we'll stick with espn the media ring and stick with auto on the white balance for focusing the simple one is single auto focus and for the focusing area, I do like to keep a single or small box so that I could be very precise about what I am focusing on and for the drive mode I'll just leave it in single if there's action that comes around, I will flip it over into this sequential mode, but for the most part I just leave it in the single so I think this is a good, simple basic photography section set up that I can get you ready for just about any type of thing very, very quickly so if you have stuck with this class all the way till now, I can offer my congratulations. You are now in omg e m one expert. So congratulations, everybody.

Class Description


Master the functions of the Olympus® E-M1 in this comprehensive course on this powerful SLR-mirrorless camera.

The Olympus® E-M1 is one of the most customizable, portable cameras available – ready to learn how to tailor it to your needs as a photographer? Join John Greengo for a one-day course that will guide you through the features, buttons, and menus of your camera. You’ll learn why the Olympus® E-M1’s rugged, weather-resistant design makes it a perfect choice for photographers who shoot outdoors. John will guide you through hands-on exercises that will equip you to capture stunning images in any shooting circumstances.

This advanced-intermediate course will help you capture professional-quality images.

Reviews

Hal
 

John does an excellent job of making the OMD E M1 understandable. His knowledge of the camera and relaxed style clearly and painlessly walk you through the maze of buttons, menus, and functions. He objectively points out the strengths of the camera as well as those things Olympus could of done better. His opinions of the camera are consistent with other knowledgable reviewers, and are consistent with my own (limited) experience. The manual tells you every little thing the camera CAN do. John helps you understand what is important to get the best use of the camera in most situations.

user e35335
 

Three simple words, " Thank you John " I have really enjoyed the course. The OMD EM1 is a wonderful camera, and with the clear guidance of this course I feel instantly at home with all its capabilities. Clear concise instructions delivered in a faultless manner. A joy to watch.

FerOlea
 

John is a very good teacher, and this is indeed a useful class. Class material is excellent as always. But I don't think this is his best work. He seems to be too conflicted with Olympus' menu systems and design decisions (which I admit, are a bit strange) to give the students a clear picture of the full potential of their new gear. He also fiddles/struggles with the camera a bit too much in all the live demonstrations. I would recommend this class only to absolute photography beginners and not really to people with any experience.