Button Layout: Top Deck Part 2
Next up is the s mode s of course stands for shutter priority you get to choose the shutter speed and the camera will figure out the aperture. Let me do another little live demo here on this camera and you can see that the shutter speeds are controlled in the back of the camera and they're highlighted in yellow and if I said a shutter speed of let's go teo a sixtieth of a second that's a pretty normal shutter speed there we go and let's focus on our lens here in front we get a nice quality picture the camera has chosen an aperture of that four point five if I decided I would like to shut a soda speed of four thousandth of a second I go up to four thousandth of a second the f two point eight is blinking at me. What this means is the camera says my lens goes down to two point eight and that is not enough to make this a good picture and if I take a picture you can see playback this image it is a very, very dark image on so that is my cameras warning to me that the aperture is not right fo...
r it and I need to make an adjustment with it. And so if I keep adjusting this down as soon as that up to eight stops blanking is when I can shoot the picture and right there it's not blinking I could take a picture and it comes out so there's our picture properly exposed and so pay attention to those blinking shutter speeds or apertures it means that you are outside of the range that you can shoot out and that's one of the problems with the shutter priority motives that if you're not paying close attention you could go outside the range pretty easily it's very hard to go outside the range in aperture priority because there are so many different shutter speeds for the aperture or for the camera to choose from aperture priorities a very safe and simple system and in that regard okay, my favorite mode manual ok, so manual allows us to change shutter speeds and apertures on our home and now we're going to be using the light meter in the camera as well to get the light meter towards zero mark in the middle and so this for instance, would be minus two stops on the exposure remember, these are measured in third stops with major indications at a full stop. So this is one stop over exposed and for a lot of times you're gonna be at zero at least a ce faras urine missile initial shot so you're aperture control is in front your shudder controllers and back so let's go ahead and set this camera manually. I got my camera in manual you'll notice here in the back of the camera that the shutter speed and the aperture are both in yellow as well. S o we have shutter speed and aperture in yellow let's just say I wanted to shutter speed of thirtieth of a second let's just set that first a thirtieth of a second there we go now what sort of aperture do I need? Well, I could just take a look at my light meter, I can see that I'm a little over two stops exposed as I'm adjusting it downwards to zero f six point three looks good on screen take the picture and we're getting a proper exposure in that case, and so you're going to pay attention to the meter, both the graphic and then america meter in there, and that is also going to be visible in the dvf for you as well so that you can have it up to your eye when you're shooting pictures. Now, once again, the front dial and the back dial can be switched around, and so you can change which one controls the shutter speed, which one controls the aperture. You can't even control which direction the dials turn, which is something I'm going to recommend a change on which is going to make working with the exposure meter a little bit more logical and easier for some reason, I think the japanese choose a different direction on turning dials to simulate which direction the controls work in the camera. And so it's really nice that you can get in and customize all these little different features in there, and you'll be able to do that the custom menu under the button dialogue option and the dial function in and I'll show you specifically what I'm talking about as we get into that later section in the menu. Ok, still on the top of the camera, the function to button what happen to the function? One button. Why don't we start with number two? Well, to happens to be in the front one happens to be on the back that's why we got to it first. So the function to button is something that you can program to do pretty much anything you want by default. It is handling four features right now. It's handling highlight shado control, color, creator mode, magnifying and image respect and I was actually playing around my camera and I need to jump in real quickly and change something here because I changed the function of this button and I now realize that I didn't want to change the function of this button and so let me get back to normal. Because you want to get this camera, you're going to start changing things really quickly because this button is a little bit weird at first, okay there's a number of things that a little weird about this camera, so when I hit this button, I get this highlight shado control. Now first off this has zero effect on raw images and what I can do is I can start raising the highlights or lower in the highlights so I'm making the highlights brighter or I'm making them darker by going up and down if I go side to side, I can make the shadows darker or it could make the shadows brighter and so I'm changing the look of the image and so if you were shooting j pegs and they weren't quite right, you could tweak it, but this button right now is programmed to do four things and it's a little awkward and let me see if I get this straight so I got to hold the button down and turn the back dial at the same time so you can see I'm holding the button down and I turned the back dial and I could flip this from highlight shot of control, which I don't ever use two color creator and now when I hit this button I can start changing the color of the image, which is something I'd never dio let me change it again turn it off press it turned the back dial let's go to the next one magnify ok, so now when I hit this button I get the magnify and aiken zoom in and this I think is pretty cool I guess we better leave this in auto focus only hit it once twice and now when I focus I can really see if the camera is focused in the right area I hit it again back it off I can use the touch screen and aiken aiken use thie tab to move it to a different area so they put it on this camera here on the left hit the magnified button and now I can go in and see if it's sharply focused on that subject and so that magnifies kind of nice I like that one so let me see if I can change this again had it there there we go the last one is image aspect ratio which allows you to change the aspect of the image and this is something I would rarely ever do normally you're going to leave it in four by three and so if you leave it at the default setting it is a four for one option but I'm not a big fan of any of the four options and so what I did are what I recommend on that camera is reprogramming the function to button to doing isil because I also something that you want to change on a regular basis and that's a great place to have your eyes so control. So as you can see here on screen, there is like twenty five different functions that you can re program function number two to dio. Now, this is probably the easiest, most accessible button on the camera, so pick whatever you're going to use the most and kind of lock that in is what you're going to put in as your function number two. My personal choice is isil, but there's a lot of other choices that you can choose from there, so that's kind of nice having these function buttons, and we're going to see lots more of him on this camera. We talked earlier about the video record button, you'll notice that there's a little blue check box to the lower right of this what that indicates is that when you're going back in the playback mode, which is also a blue button, is that you could mark an image as a selected image. And so if you have an image that's the best of a siri's, for instance, you could note, note that in the camera, and then you will be able to use that information as you export those images, yes, just a quick question, because you're talking about the movie mode from mimi k she was wondering how you got out of the movie mode once you had selected it continued to shoot even when she took us still ok, so one of the things that we could maybe do a live demo on this one so I'm going to put the camera in the movie mode and this camera if you start recording so it's in the movie mode right now, I'm going to start recording and you can see that I'm recording down here there's a little clock running if I decide to take a picture so it just took a picture but it's still recording the movie on so what it's actually doing is it it just kind of interrupted the movie so I could take that picture and then I will stop and if I go back in the play back, we should have a movie clip, a still image and another movie clip and so it's kind of just automatically created those three from that one little set of circumstances, but if you want to get out of the movie mode, I think just turning the dia will be the quickest, easiest way to get out of there okay, over on the top left of the camera is a kind of a double button, and it very it is very, very revenue reminiscent of a film rewind crank and so do not try to rewind your film in this camera there's nothing that pulls out enables you to crank your film back in. There are two buttons the top button on the bottom button. The top button controls a number of features sequential shooting, self timer and hdr so let's talk about hdr because when you press that button as you hold it down and you turn the front dial it is designed for hdr shooters but it's also a standard bracketing mode as well and so of course I had to try out this hdr mode and so here's a standard j peg versus an hdr one in an hdr too, which is a more extreme version. Hdr if you're not familiar, stands for high dynamic range and it's trying to take multiple photographs in hdr won it shoots three photographs and in each year to it takes four photographs and it's trying to capture exposure information from all of these photographs and put them all into one shot. And so if you have a subject that has a really wide extreme latitude of exposure for bright areas too dark areas you could kind of squeeze it more in now it does have a slightly different look to it than standard photographs because it's trying to cram more total information into it now one of the other option is that you can use external software where you will get probably better results and what you want to do in that case issued a serious of individual pictures at different exposures and so this camera has a number of different settings in there you can do is many a seven stops at two stops apart in each one of them or five frames at three stops apart which really it gets the extreme examples of almost complete black and complete white in there if you just want a bracketing siri's you can use this as well but the camera has a separate different set of bracketing in another place in the camera but this is one that's pretty easy to get to and so if you are shooting something that has a wide exposure range you can try the hdr see how well it works it will be a j peg image it will not be a raw image and so the way that you'll get to that is simply by pressing that button and turning the front dial. If you hold down that button and you press the back dial you will get to the sequential shooting off options and for the most part most people are just going to leave it in the single shot mode which is just the box it has a high speed in a low speed motor drive or drive mode and those speeds are going to be nine frames per second and I believe four frames per second for the low one we also have a twelve second and a two second self timer as well as a continuous timer which allows you to use or to take several photographs after a period of ten seconds and excite you. The low speed motor drive can get up to six point five frames per second now the second button on the bottom is the auto focusing and meet a ring so when you press that button and turn the front, die a little change them eatery the camera has three main media remotes digital tsp and it took me a while to dig out the information, but he s p stands for electro selective pattern don't memorize that it's not necessary, but what it is is it's a it's a matrix broken up into three hundred twenty four areas, measuring light from highlights to shadow areas and coming up with one good average for everything. It does a fantastic job in my opinion and it's where I would leave the camera most all the time it does have kind of a traditional center waited mode, so if anyone used to camera back in the seventies and eighties, all of those cameras had center waited metering systems on it. If you didn't wanna have a highly concentrated reading of light in a small area, it does have a spot meter that works quite well and would be my second choice for a selective tool in focusing the camera's unusual I don't know of any other camera that has this but it has a highlight and shadow spot meter as well and the idea is is that you would use the spot control and pointed at something that's a highlight or shadowed area in order to meet her your scene and this is, uh very counterintuitive to most people who worked with light meters and what it is is it's a spot meter added in with exposure compensation and so the highlight meter spot highlight is a spot meter with something like a plus to exposure on the compensation and the shadow is a spot meter with about a minus two exposure compensation and so the normal spot meter you of course want to try to point that at something middle tone gray these do give you some other options I've never used him I don't really see a purpose in it in my type of photography but it's another tool there if you can find use for it give it a try if you press that uh back there the second the bottom button and the back dial you're going to change the auto focusing modes and there are five different choices in here most cameras only have three well this is kind of following through on giving you a couple extra and everything that they dio so let's talk a little bit more closely about the focusing mode on the camera the standard mode is s a f and this is where I would leave it for most general photography this stands for single, which means you focus on a subject and it locks in and it stays there so that you can recompose for different composition. The other major mode in this case is the c f and the c stands for continuous so if you have a subject that is moving and you need to track their movement this is a very good system for tracking sports action on tracking their movement forward backwards and away from you that would be my main choice now the camera also has another one that's kind of interesting in a little different than most cameras it's continuous autofocus ing with tracking and in this case what it's doing is it's looking at all the focusing points and it's trying to identify the object that is moving and as it moves it's going to try to track its movement. The problem with this mode is that it's a well they call it an intelligent mode where the camera is trying to make these decisions for you and the camera makes mistakes and it kind of jumps off of it and it's a little erratic I think this is worthy of a tri depending on what type of sports or activity you're shooting, I think potentially if you had a small child playing around in the living room this might work out pretty good to be able to track that movement as it's randomly moving around, but you probably gonna want to go to the continuous mode for most types of sports and regular action type shooting that you would do now. The other option I didn't talk about is imf, which stands for manual focus, which is a good option for anyone who likes to manually set their focus. I do this a lot when I'm on a tripod and my distances aren't changing it's just very simple to set that and be done with it. There is also an s a f single out of focus plus manual focus and what that allows me to do is that if I want to auto focus and let the camera choose I can then do what's called touch up focusing which means I can adjust manual focus a little bit if I want the key is is that I have to leave my index finger halfway down on the shutter release let the camera focus and then I can go in and adjust it if you have your camera in s a a regular single autofocus mode, you press down and you turn the focusing dial nothing will happen and so anybody who's used to manual focusing that likes to have that option I would recommend the s a f plus imf so that you could have that manual focus override and so I like that mode as my personal favorite, and then I'll use continuous autofocus for any sort of action. But for a very simple use, the s a f is a good, simple note as well, so that is the auto focus modes on the camera. Now, as you might imagine, these two buttons can be customized as well as you will see later on. When we get into the menu system, those modes are not very useful to you. You can switch him out with some other modes that maybe you find more useful continuing on the top of the camera. We have a hot shoes so that you can add on additional flash, and so the camera does not have a built in flash, but it comes with let me take off the little protectors here. Got a couple of ones here, comes with a little flash right here, and so if you want a built in flash well, that's, about as close as you're going to get it's not exactly the most powerful flash in the world, a little flip up that turns it off that turns it on. There's a little unlock switch on the side so that you can mount it on and off one of the nice things about this is it doesn't need any power because it's getting power through the back port of the camera a cz we could maybe see back here it plugs in right here and there's some other accessories I'll talk about that you can plug in there, we'll plug it in and I'm not a big fan of built in flash. I'm not a big fan of on camera flash, but if you need something small and simple, that would be a great thing. You're going to go campaign or something and lightweight is very, very important. Nice to know. So for flash, the first, the most important thing to know is flash has a very limited distance that it can travel it's going to be able to illuminate subjects that is our that are essentially directly in front of you. They're not going to reach the mountains behind you or your neighbor's house across the street. So some of the flash options that you have this is called the f l l m two sells for about fifty dollars if you lose it, but it does come with the camera, and most all cases that I've seen has a guide number of ten, which is kind of on the low side olympus makes a number of other flashes, which are not really that much more powerful, but they could be used in a wireless function. The place that it really gets interesting is when you start getting into the larger flashes, which is going to be the f l six hundred. This is going to have quite a bit more power. If you do a lot of event photography, like a wedding or corporate gig, where you're shooting a lot of pictures of people at tables and gripping grins and groups of people, then you might want something more powerful. The six hundred are is really the only twice. The olympus system doesn't have the greatest versus variety of flashes, so hopefully they'll come out with some more in between models in the future. But they the six hundred is going to be a fair bit more powerful. This six hundred just in itself, for about three hundred dollars.