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Retouching in Expert Mode

Lesson 19 from: Adobe® Photoshop® Elements for Photographers

Lesa Snider

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Lesson Info

19. Retouching in Expert Mode

Lesson Info

Retouching in Expert Mode

We're now working a folder number nine, and we're gonna use the spot healing brush to retouch a portrait as well as remove some objects in our photo. So we're gonna zoom in really far on this image to see our problem areas. So we're going to remove some of these more noticeable little blemishes on her cute little teenagers. Face here. As you can see in my layers panel, I've done this on empty layers. Some is gonna turn off the visibility of these layers underneath so you can see what's on these two layers right here. So instead of duplicating the image later layer to do this kind of portrait retouching or a small area removal, we're going to do all of that on an empty layer because that makes your file size more efficient. The more layers you add to your document that are completely filled with pixels larger, the file size is going to be so doing it this way gives you a little bit more flexibility also makes it easier to come back in and fine tune this. So let's say, for example, I rem...

oved a sacred mole. Client wants the mold back. What do you dio. Well, if you've done this on a duplicate layer is gonna be next to impossible to find the area that you need to erase in order to bring back the sacred mole. And I could talk about mold because I'm covered in him. So But if you do this kind of stuff on empty layers, it's really easy to go in and say, Oh, well, I'll grab the eraser tool on eldest Erase that patch of spot healing there, which effectively makes you be able to see the sacred mold down there on that bottom, most layer. So those are some of the reasons we're gonna do this retouching on separate layers. But it's kind of funny here. All right, so here's the what we're gonna create. So see how smooth and nice that faces. I'm gonna go down and zoom percentage just a little bit. Okay, so here's one layer of removal and here's another layer of me removal. So that's what we're gonna do. So let's delete the layers that I made for you by shift clicking to activate them, impressing the delete key again. Delete. He did delete layers was new and elements 12. That won't work in any other version. Now let's create a new layer onto which we're gonna do our spot healing. So we click the new layer icon in the layers panel there, and you can give it a quick double clicking. Call it spot healing. Or you could use the keyboard shortcut shift command in or shift control in to create any layer in. Name it right there. Now let's go grab a spot Healing and brush from our tools panel looks like a Band Aid with a little dotted circle above it. And to be honest by default, I believe the tool wants to use the math behind proximity match, which is gonna make the tool Look just outside the edges of your burst cursor. Copy those pixels, and it's gonna paste them to the area on the inside of your brush cursor, and it's gonna swish them around a little bit to blend them so that the retouch looks realistic. This content aware option right here came along. I believe in elements. 11 is either elements 10 or 11. I think it was elements 11 and to be honest with you, this one I can't tell a whole lot of difference between using content, aware mode or proximity match mode. The difference is that with continent where mod Elements looks in a larger area beyond your brush cursor, and it does that prioritization of the areas of color that it finds so it does a little bit better job, at least in my testing of making the retouch look more realistic. But you'll have to do your own experiments. But when I'm doing this at home for clients, I just leave the spot healing brush set to content aware and I don't think about it, so you might want to do the same. But that option is new and elements 11. So for using a previous version, just roll with proximity match. That's totally fine. The next thing you want to do down here in the options bar is turn on a sample all layers check box. That is what's gonna make elements. Look through the currently active layer, which is empty down to the layers underneath it, where the actual pixels live. So if you don't turn that on and you go clicking around on your document and you have an empty layer, active elements will schooI kitty in the form of a dialogue box and error. Miss Agency. And there are no pixels here. I don't know what you're trying to do. Your crazy I'm not. I've got nothing to work with. So now what you want to do is zoom into your image and we're gonna make the brush just a little bit larger. Then the area we're trying to get rid of, and again at home, you're not gonna have this green circle on your screen. That's just to help you keep track of where mine cursor is. So look at the black outline off the green circle. So if we make it about that big and do a single click and that blemishes gone Oh, if we could only do that in the real world Now, if you see a little bit of an outline around that. So if the if the retouch doesn't look realistic, you can always click the undo button or press commander control Z, and then have another go at maybe a slightly larger or smaller brush size. So it just depends on the image that you're working with and you know, your particular I so utilize those undo buttons and experiment with breast size if you need to. So for this one right here, I can go down in size Click to get rid of it. I like to use that space bar. Hold on the space bar to cruise around within a zoomed in image. I also use those left and right bracket keys to change brush size, and that just allows you to be pretty fast. Now this is another great use for the tool. Looks like we've got a little bit of plucking to do up here, ladies and gentlemen, So for that, you can either make the brush. Really tiny are You can click and drag with the brush, so this spot healing brush is really helpful for retouching portrait's. But obviously you can use it on anything. It's easiest if the thing you want to get rid of will fit within a round brush cursor. But like you just saw, you can click and drag with this tool as well. And we'll do that here in a second. There's a sacred mole what will be on? We're gonna do that in a second to remove a power line. So with your fingers on the left and right bracket keys. You can get really fast at this. But again, this is not anything that you want to tell your clients or tell the person you just took the picture of that you did, and you're not gonna want to let them watch you do it. So when I first started teaching photo shot back in 2000 I used to spend quite a bit of time with Scott Kelby partly because I was dating his brother. Handy that. Anyway, Scott had my first professional headshot because I began teaching and writing for them. They found out that I was really good at photo shop. And I'm really good writer, really good teacher. So I actually got some work out of it, which was, yea, bonus. But so he had me come into the studio to take my first professional headshot, and I never had anything like that done. And I'm Olin Mills girl, right? So I was all excited cause I could not wait to watch Scott retouched my portrait. He kicked me afternoon, literally. I was good friends with him. He would not let me watch because he he's very smart and he knows that when you let somebody watch you do this kind of stuff, then they start worrying about those things that you took out. So that's another reason why it's very, very, very, very important not to let anybody watch you do this because you'll give somebody a complex that they didn't even have. So I was very disappointed. I thought he was kidding. I was like, Come on, I always calling Scott Lee I was like, Come on, Scotland He's like I'm serious out E I didn't get to watch, but that was a good lesson. So that's how easy it is to use a spot healing brush. So here's our before, and here's our after. And if we turn off the visibility of the photographic layer there, then we can see where we did all of our retouching on that empty layer. So really super handy. Another handy reason to use the spot healing brush like that, and this is a stock image, so I hope my producers don't flip out. That we're showing Apple logo is to remove logos. If you're doing submissions for royalty free stock photography, you cannot include any logos. So if this was one of your stock shots. You need to get rid of that apple before you did that. So this is what we're gonna be able to create. So there's before there's the after, so you want to do this on an empty layer. So let's go ahead and use our shift command in or shift control in trade to creamy layer. We've got a layer naming opportunity. There will call it logo begun. Spot healing Tool is already active. Let's take a peek at the Options bar. Make sure content aware is turned on. You definitely want to have that turn on when you're removing objects. But with portrait, you might want to try proximity match. But honestly, I haven't been able to a big difference between the teeth and again and content. Where came along, I think in elements 11. So now we're gonna make our brush big enough to encompass the thing. We want to get rid of a single quick to make it go away easy, right? I mentioned that we can also click and drag with it museum Alvis image a little bit, so let's say I wanted to do something like that. So there were a lot of leaves in the foreground of this photo from camera. But if I wanted to clean it up a little bit, make those leaves a little less distracting so that your eye goes right to the dogs and I might delete a few of those. So let's create a new layer. Leaves you gone and we've already got the spot hailing tool, active continent Where is turned on sample All layers is turned on because that's the magic setting that lets you do all this on empty layer. So now we can come down here, use our bracket keys to resize our brush, and on some of these lease will click and drag others. We can increase our breast size to encompass the entire leaf, and before long you can get rid of just some of the leaves. So it's not as distracting, so great tool to have in your back pocket to clean up and fine tune images in this way. So here's our before Here's our after I'm gonna clean up the pavement. I could do that to you. For those of you who are o. C. D. I highly recommend this, so that's using the spot Healing brush. Pretty amazing, huh? The next tool we want to look at is the healing brush, and this one is good for for lessening the effects of something that's not. It's not that you'd really use the healing brush to remove something completely least, in my opinion, it's not the best tool for that. But what we can do on this particular image is lightened those bags under her eyes just a little bit. So there's the before, and there's the after both a spot healing brush and the healing brush do a little bit of blending when you're removing objects like that, so use a spot healing brush for maybe smaller areas in the healing brush for slightly larger areas. So let's go ahead and create a new empty layer onto which we're gonna do our healing. So shift command in or should control in. You can name the layer according to the area that you're fixing, or perhaps with the tool that you're using. So with the spot healing brush active good into the options bar, and that's where you can find the healing brush. Then you want to turn on sample all layers. That's gonna let you look through the currently active empty layer down below to where the pixels actually live. We can close up that options bar now for this tool. Instead of just copying and pasting pixels that are outside of the brush cursor, pacing them inside of the brush cursor like we did with the spot healing brush, You have to tell elements where you want it to grab the good pixels from for the fix. So if we're going to fix this area right here, then we would probably want to set a sample point somewhere around in here somewhere near to the area that you're fixing. So it'll match in tone and texture. So go ahead, make my brush a little bit larger with my bracket keys, and you set a sample point holding a modifier key in that option on a Mac or halt on the PC. As soon as you do that, your brush cursor changes to a little cross hair. That's when you can click to set a sample point. Now you may wonder what, Lisa, why are you clicking up here? Closer to that area you're gonna fix? Well, we've got a hair going across that spot. I don't want to duplicate that hair as you when you soon as you release your option or all key after you've said a sample point. Then, as you move your brush cursor around, you're going to see a preview of that sample point appear inside the brush. Pressure was helps you see if you did a good job of setting the sample point before you actually start painting with the tool, so just click and drag to paint with a tool. The little cross hair that's moving along is letting me know from what area the photo I'm sampling from, as I paint. Depending upon the size of the area you're trying to fix, you may need to set multiple sample points. Now we can mouse over here and do the same thing on her other eye. So in other words, maybe you can only paying a little ways. And then you have to set another sample point paint a little bit more, said another sample point, and so on and so forth. This depends on the image now. We were talking earlier about how I said in healing brush, not so great for completely removing objects you can use it to do that. But on portrait's things really start to look fake fast. And to me, this looks very, very fake. So what you can do is drop the opacity of that. And to be honest, when I'm doing this for clients are on. You know, my own portrait because you better believe I retouch my own pictures. Then I rarely used capacity more than 40% for this fix, because I just think it looks more realistic. More often than not, I'll be somewhere down around the 30% realm. So here's the before, and here isn't after. All we did was give her a couple hours more sleep. Then she actually got last night, which is nice. So I like my retouch is to look realistic and not completely fake and obviously, Photoshopped like the cover of most magazines. So let's do that one again. Real quick together. So shift commander control in to make any layer 120 words a minute. If you're curious spot, grab the spot healing brush and then mouse down to the options bar. That's where you can find the healing brush and then you want to turn on sample all layers, and this tool has been in the program for forever. Then, using a modifier key, you're going to set a sample point till elements where you want those pixels to come from. So options are all click released. The modern fire he mouse over to the area you're fixing and paint. Create another sample point mouse lemur to the area that you want to fix and paint. Because I know I'm going to reduce the opacity of this layer so very much. I don't care that I'm introducing a little bit of a repetitive skin pattern. But if there were mole or a freckle or something that I duplicated, then I would either click to set another sample point or switch to the spot Haley brush and get rid of it. But because I know I'm gonna drop the opacity to somewhere around 35% I'm not worried about it, cause I know that do put skin is not gonna show up. So just enough to give her a little bit more sleep. Now let's move on to the clone stamp tool. So if the spot healing brush does a little blending to make the retouch look real, and the healing brush does a little blending to make the retouch look real. The clone stamp tool does noble ending at all. On Monday of this week, I did a full day on using healing tools and the cloning tools and unease. E way to remember. Is that the spot hailing brush in the healing brush or in the rock band called The Blenders and the clinic Santel is in the rock band called the Copiers. Clinic staff is a straight coffee healing brush and spot healing brush, copy and blend. So let's take a look at a few images. We might want to use the clone stamp tool on. So this image I got in Santa Reading Greece when I was teaching on a cruise ship in the Mediterranean for years back. But these dad gum power lines had the nerve to get in my image. So let's take a look at how we can get rid of them. This one. We will be able to use the spot healing brush on in drag, and it will be great, this one over here because it butts up against an area I don't want to mess with which is this concrete of this free floating, freestanding door that I'm gonna have to use the clone stamp tool to fix that area because I don't want blending in that area because it will make the pixels look on mushy and blurry. So let's create a new layer on which we're gonna do our power line zapping so, commander control in we can call this one power line right just to give you an idea of where you fixed the thing. Now let's click to activate the healing brush and then use the options bar to switch back to the spot. Healing brush Said it to content aware if you have that option, make sure sample all layers is turned on. Come over to the thing you want to get rid of. Make your brush just a hair bigger. You're gonna kind of straddle the line with your brush cursor here. So you wanted to be a little bit bigger than the line itself in this click and drag and you don't even have to do it in one brushstroke. Now you see it now I don't Now let's create another new layer. We're gonna call this one's power line lift. Use your space bar trick toe, reposition the image while you're zoomed in. And let's get rid of as much as this power line is. We can using the spot healing brush, and you don't have to do it in one brushstroke like I'm doing. You can paint a little bit. Release your mouse button pain a little bit. Release your mouse button so we got rid of that power line. But we're anchors to the building. Were in all kinds of trouble down there. That's a perfect use for the clone stamp tool. In this case, we want a straight copy, so let's go ahead and make another new layer and we'll call this one. Cloning switch to the clone Stamp tool is below the healing brush their tools panel. Give it a click and again we're gonna try down to the Options Bar and turn on that sample all layers close at that panel. So it's not distracting with the clone stamp tool kind of works like the healing brush tool you need to set a sample point so we're gonna option Click are all from the PC, where you want the source point to be your the sample point released the modifier key and then mouse over to the area you want to fix and we're gonna click. That was a straight copy, and there's no blending going on now. We'll set a sample point over here and we'll come over here and try to match up that area. Try to keep that line a straight as we can and click to get rid of that. And now I'm gonna set another sample point up here in the water and copy and paste a little bit of that water over there on to that building. So before we did the cloning, here's our before, and here's our after. So use the tools for their greatest advantage. Get as much as you can done with, say, the spot healing brush. If you're doing some removal like this and then switch to the clone tool to find teen, the areas where you don't want any blending to occur that also works on Portrait's. So here we've got a portrait sample file for you, and as we turn on the visibility of these layers, you can see things changing Elysium in a little bit more, hopefully make it a little bit more obvious, so I've got a spot healing brush layer. So while I love this photographers composition of this photo, I felt that some of the snowflakes and water droplets were distracting from her face. So I just went in and removed a few of them clean it up just a little bit. Then I used the healing brush toe. Lighten the darkness underneath her eyes, so that layer set about 40%. Then I used the clone tool clone stamp tool. This and only to really examine Seacon. See what I did with it. See those hairs going across her teeth? Get rid of him with the clone stamp tool. So that's an area where I would not want any blending to occur. As I'm trying to get rid of those items, he could probably get away with the spot healing brush in this area right here. But that's about it. So we can do that one quickly together, and it gives you an idea of how you would use these tools in conjunction with each other on a portrait so we'll go ahead and delete all those layers. So let's create a new empty layer will call it spot healing. Go grab a spot healing brush. Make sure it's set to content aware. Sample all layers. Make your brush just a little bit bigger than the thing you want to get rid of. Remember that you can click and drag with it if you want. Get rid of that little water droplet right there, and a few more little spots just for fun does clean her up this little bit. We'll call that good. So there's the before, and there's the after. Now let's have another new layer healing brush Click. To activate the spot healing brush, trot down to the options bar. Choose the healing brush. Turn on sample all layers, press and hold your option or ault on the PC to set a sample point. Pain across the thing that you're trying to get rid of or reduce? Yes, something. Why am I turning my life now when you're finished, let's drop the opacity of that one to around 35 or 40. There's the before there's after. Now let's attack those teeth. Also, I'm really far in, and by pressing commander control, plus another new layer recall this hairs on teeth or clone whatever makes sense to you. Grab a clone stamp tool, trot down to the options bar, Turn on sample all layers, collapse the box, go down and brush size a bit. And now will to start setting a sample point painting a little bit, setting a sample point. This one we can paint for quite a while until we get down to that spot right there and then when he'd izumi and even more go down and brush size. This stuff is tedious, but it's important for for you all to know how to use these tools. Okay, the clone tool is great for getting rid of shines and shadows, too. If you were going to use it in that situation, I dropped the capacity of the tool itself. That way you can paint as a as a build. So, for example, these shiny areas on her teeth I could get rid of those just by copying part of the tooth that's not shiny onto that area. But if you were using it in that fashion, then I would use this opacity slider in the options bar for the tool itself to really dropped the tools power down to about 10% and that way you could try to remove the shiny area a little bit at a time as a build effect. Otherwise, it will be too much of a change. So if you drop the opacity of it when you're using it for that kind of a usage, that will work out a lot better. So now let's use our space bar to scoot over, get rid of the options, Bar said. Another sample point over here continue to pay in a way that hair close Santa was also how you perform quality head swapping great for breakup, family reunions, divorces. So when you're doing this, just be careful that you're not, you know, introducing a repeating pattern so we could spend all day with this. But we're not gonna trying to give you an idea of how to use this tool to get rid of things like that and an idea of when you would use the healing tools versus the cloning tool. So now here's our before. Here's our after so healing brushes blenders closed at tool copiers. Question. Do you mind explaining to me really quick how I would swap heads? Sure, so you would start by combining those images into the same document, and then you would create a selection of everything are you create selection of the head. Then you add a layer mask, and then you would create a new layer for cloning and set it to sample all layers. And that would allow you to fix up any areas around the severed area. Helling. Yeah, good times with that. Really good time. So let's take a look at a situation where the healing brush is Aren't gonna dio a bit of good? Let's say that I set up a photo shoot and my dad gum photographer, whomever. My art director put too many pumpkins in this picture. Supposed to have three pumpkins, not five pumpkin. And so I need to get rid of those two pumpkins over there. The spot healing and the healing brush is really aren't gonna help me because they're going to blend. So they're going to make that area look a little blurry by the time I can paint enough to get those pumpkins. So the tool to reach for in this situation is the clone tool, so I'll delete these layers. Then let's at another new layer. Pumpkin be gone. We've still got the clone stamp tool active. Take a peek in our options bar sample. All layers is turned on and all do minutes. You could see a little better, so now we just increase our birth size. Options are also click to set a sample point, and then you would merely paint the pumpkin away. This one, you'll have to set several sample points. Be careful not to introduce repeating patterns of grass here, but before too long. I'm sampling different areas to keep from repeating blades of grass, because in this one would be a little bit obvious because we're not gonna drop layer opacity. So here's our before. Here's our after. That's fine stuff. Delete people from your photos. It's always tell folks who needs a therapist when you've got Photoshopped. Good time for questions. Yes, awesome. So we have a question. Um, G Jr would like to know should spot healing or healing and cloning we done prior to sharpening and total changes. Scharping should be the last thing you do. Always, always, always, always, always. Last last, last last last thing you do. So the last thing I I do color correction first? Yeah, probably because this goes in my workflow. I usually do that. I usually crop unusually color, correct, And then I do any kind of retouching. And then creative color effects and then last is sharpening. Okay and a couple of folks wanted to know about. Do you always use the spot healing on faces in normal mode? Or would you ever change to lighten, darken or multiply? No, I don't believe that that would affect the tool in any way changing the modes for that particular tool you can try and see. But now always just leave it set to normal, because there that's just another blend mode menu, so that changes the way color on one layer in our interacts with color on another layer. And when you're healing like that, I don't want any color shifts. You know between those areas. So I'm not experimented with all the blend modes, using it on using changing the blend modes of the spot healing brush win retouching, Portrait's have not experimented with all of them, so there may be one blend mode that magically does something fantastic, but I don't I don't resort to that. Okay, this may be kind of silly, cause I know all images are different, but on average, how long does it take you to edit one image? I try to go through all that. I try not to spend more than 30 minutes. Okay, per image. That's just a goal. Sometimes it you know, I have to spend more. Sometimes it's less, but 30 minutes is like my goal because when you can get so carried away with that kind of thing, I mean, you could spend hours and days and weeks on that kind of stuff. So one thing that I do is let's pop back open the image of the little girl. Let's say I'm doing my retouching, you know, And I'm zoomed into, you know, 300%. Well, I'm gonna see all kinds of imperfections that I want to get rid of it. 300% like looking and one of those dad gum magnified mirrors which I don't recommend under any circumstance. So what I do force myself to do is zoom out to roughly the size that the image is gonna print. If this were a piece of paper, imagine. OK, if I'm gonna print this image five by seven, then it's not gonna be any bigger than that once it's printed out. So I forced myself to zoom out to roughly about the size the image is gonna print on paper and assess it there. Definitely. At the 30 minute mark, I make myself take a look. If they are, at least let's call this. Get back in the outside. So that might be a good kind of goal for you to dio Pit boy has a question. Um, what's the difference between clone and healing? When in replace mode, cleaning and healing and replace mood? I'm not sure where there. Yeah, I'm not seeing any kind of replace mode, so I'm not sure what they're talking about. We'll get clarification. You have a question back to save for the Web? Is that only for transparency? Zor. Might you use that just transparent calling for transparency? Well, safer Web is good anytime you're preparing an image for online use. So not just for transparency is the file formats that we picked in that situation. We're just for Transparency's. So if you were preparing, let's say you needed to post this on Facebook or the Web or what have you some kind of online situation then you could totally do file safer with. But you would choose J Peg from the pop up menu. And while you're in this dialog box, you can zoom in. And the magic of this particular dialog box is that it gives you a preview of the file you're about to create. So in this case, this would be a format file format change versus the original, so you can see the kind of color differences you're going to get according to the settings that you choose over here on the right hand side. So when you're saving an image as a J peg, you can control the compression level, which just means the quality. So as I trot through the different levels of quality here for the J peg file format, I'm seeing the impact of those changes atop my image right here. So the safer Web dialogue is really great to use any time you're preparing an image for online or on screen use doesn't have to be just for Web. But going into the presentation, um, email. I'm specifically thinking about building a portfolio of my photos for the woman. Then I have another option for you. And that is to use the image processor script, which, over in elements is called process multiple files. So this is how I believe you could prepare yours kind of unmasked. You're gonna have several images that you might want to do a little resize ing on, making smaller for posting on the Web and turn them into J pegs at a certain level of quality so you could choose file process multiple files. And this is a fabulous dialog box. I'm glad we're encountering it now is going to save it till the very last thing. But this way for run out of time, we've already we've already covered it. So file process. Multiple files Tell elements what folder you want to process. So navigate to where that folder lives. And then let's just running on a folder saw Click Browse. I'll go find a folder that's only got a couple of images. We use our colorized black and white images. Click choose, and then from the destination area, you tell elements where to put these changed images. Somebody click browse again and I'm just throw these on my desktop, and I'll call this 13 size and watermark test too quick. Choose if you want to rename the files, they've got some kind of a Web file naming scheme that use. You could click that check box and enter those names there. If you need to resize the images, let's say you thes air images that came off your digital camera that you've retouched, so they're really, really large. Then you could turn on resize images right there, and you would dial in the maximum with or hype. So if you want them to be a maximum of 800 pixels wide or high in height, you would type when constrain proportions. It won't let you do that. Okay, I believe, by turning off constrain proportions, this is going to do it either or so I think elements will look at the aspect ratio of the picture, and it'll just make the largest pixel dimension 800. We'll see if I'm right on that. You can change the resolution here if you want, so it doesn't make a hill of beans what you choose There, the image is going to be 800 pixels so you can post it on the web. So you really don't have to worry about that too much. Then you can turn on this check box at the bottom to tail elements. Hey, while you're at it, convert these from whatever they are out. Maybe Photoshopped documents to J. Peg and you've got all of the different J peg options here. We can choose Jay Peak, high quality meeting quality, low quality for portfolio and probably do max quality. If you're really, really, really concerned about quality, I choose paying instead of J. Peg, you're gonna get a little bit of a larger file size. But the colors you're gonna look more accurate to use a photographer. She probably more pleased with the quality so we can just choose pain, then. Look at this. Imagine the power of this. Now, of course, if you're preparing portfolio images, you will be adjusting them on an image by image basis. But look at the powerful thing we've got right there. People we can do on auto levels, adjustment and auto contrast and auto color and we can sharpen. All right, here, applying that on multiple files. So where would this be useful. Let's say you just took a vacation and you came back and you just want a bam. Apply all this, Teoh a big old folder of files and get him out the door. Maybe sharing with somebody or post them on in a photo gallery, etcetera. And that might be really super useful for you. Look what we got here yesterday. We had a question about water marking elements makes water marking so easy, far easier than it is in photo shop. So from this poppet menu here, you would choose watermark, and you can enter your copyright information the custom text that you want to use as the watermark. Using this method, you can't use an image as a watermark, say, like a logo. But this is great. So you type in the text. And just so you know, the copyright symbol is option G on a Mac or Ault G on a PC. So do include that symbol. Do you include that symbol? And you could even include the year if he wanted. I didnt really take this photo, but if I did, I could do that. And then from the position and you he control exactly where that watermark appears. So I'm gonna have it appear at the bottom left. And then you can control what fun you use for the watermark. I would choose a bold or a black font because if it's too thin, you're not amiable. See it on the image. So I I like Ariel Black, but I think that's a cross platform font. So you PC folks probably have that, too, Or Helvetica black with another good one. You can choose the size of the watermark text right here and its opacity level as well as the color. I tend to go for, like, a white ish. But let's say I had this set to black it. 50% opacity, and it would be about a 50% gray. But I'm gonna keep it something. We'll just go with Gray. What happens? Click OK, and now Elements is gonna resize those files. Change the format in mass. Which is great for doing this to a lot of files for a portfolio situation and add a watermark to them. Click OK elements does its magic, you smile smugly, is you're making the computer do all the work for you now Let's go over to our finder. Open up another folder here, and let's go take a peek at what happened. So we used resize and watermark to. So there's article watermark down there. Pretty sweet, huh? And it looks like this that did what I thought was gonna happen didn't exactly happen. And that's okay. So if I guess you need to leave that constrain proportions check box turned on in the image size dialogue or the image processor dialogue over and Photoshopped, that dialogue box is a little bit different, and you can actually do what I did. I just it over there. It will just look at the largest pixel dimension and apply what you enter if you enter the same number, both fields to that longest pixel dimension, whether it's with or high, but over an elements land that didn't exactly happen. So you would just enter whatever the dimensions you want your images to be. I would never post anything in the portfolio over 800 by pixels. That's not big in the frame. Anybody to do anything with if they want to snatch it. Cool, huh? So, again, that was the file menu process. Multiple files, and that is how you can in mass change filings resize your images, and we've all learned very important to leave Han the constrain proportions. Convert your files to what I reform at for your portfolios. Ping would work really well. It's gonna give you larger file size but higher quality. Or I would go for J. Peg Max. Then, if you are processing a slew of pictures, let's say, Gosh, you just wanna get some client photos uploaded as proof so they can just pick and see which ones they want, and then you're going to go back in and re touch those individually. Then you might do some of this. These options appear at the top, right, just to give him kind of an overall general boost of something. And then here's how you as your watermark option. G r. All Gede. Add that copyright symbol and then just determine what position and what fun and what color you want that watermark to be. Sit back in the elements, do all the work. Sip your frosty beverage, often

Class Materials

bonus material with purchase

Keynote
Practice Files
Practice Files 2
12 Workbook.pdf

Ratings and Reviews

a Creativelive Student
 

Creative Live has opened my eyes to education on-line and out of all the on-line resources I have come across, Creative Live is the best and there's never a catch. Creative Live is one company I trust 100%. They never would take adavantage of anyone. I love Creative Live.

a Creativelive Student
 

Love the class and have been thoroughly enjoying it. One question- has anyone else had issues downloading the files? It seems to only go up to folder 13 and most of day 2 is missing?

a Creativelive Student
 

Every workshop I have watched LIVE is absolutely FREE! And... there is a rebroadcast that follows that is free. It is only if you want to go back again and again and again - that there is a purchase price. The knowledge of the instructors is phenominal..... well worth the cost if you choose to buy the workshop.

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