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Photoshop Mastery: Ultimate Mastery

Lesson 25 of 26

New Features in CC: Camera Raw

Ben Willmore

Photoshop Mastery: Ultimate Mastery

Ben Willmore

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Lesson Info

25. New Features in CC: Camera Raw

Lesson Info

New Features in CC: Camera Raw

Let's, go and look at some of the features they've added to the normal version of camera. The version where you get it when you first double, click and open a raw file. Or you can also use thes features if you have a j peg or a tiff file by just going up to the file menu and bridge and choosing opening camera. So this is an image that I shot in russia and when I was in russia quite awhile ago mean, years ago, this is before they had the sensors and cameras that would shake themselves to get the dust off and all that kind of stuff. And I didn't bring any sensor cleaning gear because I was limited in how much bags I could bring. In fact, when I got there, they lost my bags. And so even if I had brought some, I wouldn't have noticed, you know, been ableto to use it. So I had an extremely dirty censored by the end of my russia trip, back with an old camera and changes that lens is quite a bit so let's. See what I can do about it. In here, if you just look around this I see a bunch of blobs...

in the sky so I'm gonna go up to the top here we have a bunch of tools one of the tools looks like a brush with a few blobs around it that's the spot removal tool that's been in photo shopped for quite a bit, but with it you know how you can use the square bracket keys on your keyboard to change the size of this circle and just click and let go to tell it to remove a spot in photo shop will randomly pick an area from the surroundings that it thinks would be appropriate for that particular fix. Well, there's a few things that they ended up changing because what happens is sometimes you end up clicking on an area and I don't know if I'll be able to get this to happen in this particular image. But let's say it picked a bad spot like I tried to remove the speck that's over here innit cloned from a tree or something else where it put in just blatantly wrong data well on your keyboard there is a ford slashed ski ford slash key at least on a mac is right above the little arrow keys here having a keyboard if you press that key photoshopped will choose a different area to copy from so if the very first time it chooses an area copy from it copies from blatantly wrong information like in this case, it might copy from another blob that's in the sky just hit that forward slash key again, it'll pick a new area to copy from it still doesn't look good press that key again. It'll pick another area to do that until it picks an appropriate area. I mainly use that when it suddenly seems to clone from the edge mint object or it seems to grab from trees or something else when it shouldn't have and that was hitting the, um ford slash key then other things we can do this image is got terrible dirt in it. If I get up close, can you see some blatant lines over here? It looks terrible. Well, sometimes the spots you want to get rid of our not little circles, you know? Sure, here I have a little circle here I have a little one, but other times they're going to be lines. And if that's the case with this tool in photo shop cc, you're not limited. Just clicking you can click in drag, which is new if I drag him to find an area and then photo shop will pick another area to copy from, and I can do that for these long strokes of dirt that was on my sensor and remember any time it if it picks from the wrong place just hit that ford slash key it'll pick a new place to copy from so it's not perfect when it first does it you can hit the key other things about this and I don't have it in this particular image but let's say there are some telephone lines or something else that is a straight line within your image that you need to remove I'm just going to do this little blotch over here you can I believe, click and then hold on the shift key and click somewhere else what happens when you click one spot and then shift clicks somewhere else is it draws a straight line between the area where you first clicked and the area where you shift clicked and that's maura behavior that's similar to what you would get with retouching tools once you're outside of camera and you're in the main part of photo shop so it's really nice to be able to do that when you have things like telephone lines recon click on one end hold shift and click on the opposite end and it will trace all the way across that telephone line other things we can do is if we need to get rid of these little overlays that air here if the overlays if it's little hard to see them we have a show overlay check box down here and if you just press the letter v it's the same as clicking that check box he had v it hides them hit v again it shows them so that's a nice little waited to toggle we also have a feature where if it's hard for you to tell where your camera dust specks are and believe me in this image it's not hard to tell in fact I'll be embarrassed if I turn this on and you see all the specks but there's a track box called visualize spots if I turned on it will make it much easier for you to see the spots that air in your sky you'll have a little slider here you just want to move it until you can start scene usually it's your sky and you're going to start noticing like little circular areas here. That is where it's trying to show you exactly where the spots are in your picture so I can go in and retouch them out while I'm in that view and like right there, it might have grabbed the little tip of that I can always hit the ford slashed to tell it to grab from a different area and just get those all retouched out well, I could easily see them with that visualize spots check box if you want to turn visualize spots on and off just hit the letter why on your keyboard the letter why will toggle that on and off if you forget the keyboard shortcuts for either toggle ing it on or off work train on or off the show overlays just mouse over it without clicking like hover over it and it'll give you a tool tip and on the end of the tool tip it'll remind you what the keyboard truck that is then if you want to delete some of these spots maybe you're amore too aggressive and a client came in until ji that hey, I didn't want all that stuff removed maybe it was your working in somebody's face and you're removing every little blotch that's there if you ever want to remove one of these areas that you've worked with, you can hold on the option key alton windows we'll give you a pair of scissors and you just click to delete the spots that you want to get rid of or if there was a large area where the client says I really didn't want like the forehead and this image to be so heavily retouched you can hold down that option key alton windows instead of clicking on just one or two of those spots you want to remove, just click in drag and you're going to get a rectangle and now any of the spots that touched the rectangle were turned red when you let go, you'll be deleting those particular retouching spots now in this particular image I don't want to do that because there's enough junk in this image that I want is much help as I can but it's just nice to know that you can come in there and um you know be able to dial in exactly what you need now sometimes when you are clicking you want to clone upright against the edge of an object let's just say there maybe was a spot that needed to be removed right on the edge of this this is a sculpture by the way and this is supposed to look like a swore dde but if I were to clone from right here and just let go photo shop would usually try to pick what part of the image it would clone from and it's not always going to be great area in this case it did but if I want to manually define which area it's going to use usually can hold down the command key if you hold on command than when you click you khun drag to somewhere else to say oops I didn't mean to do it that way to say I want a copy from over here but holding down the command key is what tells photoshopped don't think I wanna paint across an area instead when I hold on command think about an individual speck that I want to retouch I simply want to drag too tell it where to copy from and so those are some of the things you khun dio with the spot removal brush in photoshopped cc let's look at some other features, though that are new to fetter shop see, see one of the other features has to do with architecture so let's, look at a few different options we have here I'm gonna open an image in the camera, and this is one where I tilted my camera slightly and you notice that if you look in the right side of the photo, especially over here that you can see these verticals are not straight instead they're bowing in and just not looking good. Well, if I go to the lens correction tab, that would be the tab over here that's supposed to look like the elements that make up a lens there's a new features in there and this feature in general is called upright in its for perspective correction the later a stands for auto, so it would analyze your image and try to figure out what to use the icon of the left means disable it. So if you've tried one of these options, you don't like the end result, you could click on that in this particular image, I want only the verticals to be strained, and so over here, out of these choices do you see the one that only shows vertical lines that one is going to try to just do the verticals watch what happens when I click on it you see the vertical lines within this building now suddenly straight all he had to do is one click on that icon now if I try to click some of the other icons it might mess up on this particular image because the other icons are going to try to get the top of the building to be straight is if I shot it straight on and I'm so far off from shooting it that way that it's going to look it could possibly look weird I mainly just wanted the verticals look nice and vertical so click done let's look at a different image to see if we can try one of the other features let's brighten up this image first just so it's a little easier to see what's in it and then let's see what we can do to straighten things again I go to the lens corrections tab and one of the choices here is the one of the left which is going to try to make horizontal lines nice and level so if the base of this temple is not perfectly level one from the angle a shot of that when I click on that it's going to try to rotate it to get it to b level if I go back and shoes off you can see the difference just a slight rotation there or I can tell photo shop instead auto you know look at the image see if you can figure out what you think it needs when when I choose auto it will try to figure out exactly what it thinks it needs and I notice that it also corrected for the uprights do you see the uprights in here? Watch what happens when I turn it off you see how I was tilted up a little bit to get the top in here I was trying not to cut off the top of this tree and other things but in the process of doing so whenever you tell your camera upward you're going tohave vertical lines no longer looking vertical so I can manually choose otto I can tell it's on ly correct for the horizontal sze because my image might be rotated a little bit on ly correct for the verticals or I can say correct for both but you'll find that you might want to just start with auto and see if I was going to give you what you want if it doesn't quite dialing what you want then force it in one of the other settings just because he chose auto doesn't mean it's going to fix everything in your picture er you can further fine tune it so down here at the bottom we have a bunch of sliders we could use and in there we can do things like if I shot this at an off angle, I can try to act like I'm trying to straighten that up, and this one's not shot up all that far of an angle let's go for a different picture where it might be able to teo demo that more. I wanted to open that camera. All right? So in this image, I obviously shot this at an angle where this part of the building's further away from me, this one's closer and all of that let's see a photo shop might be able to make it look more similar to me shooting the building straight on. I'll go to my lens corrections town, and we have all these choices I'm going to see if I can force it to do all the corrections bake both horizontal and vertical straight look at that. It tried to make it look as if I shot the building straight on. It doesn't look precisely right because of perspective wouldn't be quite like that, but it's pretty crazy that it's able to figure it out and try. Now, if you find that it cuts off part of your image, there is a choice in here called scale, and if you bring this scale down, you'll be able to get it down so you can see the entire photo. You get a sense for what kind of distortion yet tried teo put in there and so if it cuts off part of the image just bring down the scale setting and then you could use the crop tool to just manually crop the image in that way you're not stuck with the way it was dealing with it and if you don't want a fully correct for everything I could always just come in here and say fine it was okay to have some of that just not as much and I can just kind of turn down that horizontal setting a bit or I can try to overcompensate for if it didn't correct enough so you do have these settings to find tune which could be rather nice you even have one for aspect ratio where a squish it one direction or the opposite because oftentimes when you correct for different kinds of lens correction even if you make vertical lines used to kind of converge go straight sometimes the building looks artificially tall it and you need to have kind of have it squish down in the choice called aspect can help you kind of squish it one direction until it looks more visually right and here's just one more image this one I think I was just a little crooked when I shot it and the verticals are just a little bit off I usually just start off with auto and see what it can do. I noticed the vertical still are not fixed so I could force it into the vertical setting that's there if it's still not good enough fine tune it with ease settings maybe I need to manually rotate the image a little bit one way or the other maybe I need to manually adjust that vertical distortion until I think it looks right and then I did to crop the image to give me a rectangular mentioned once again. So anyway, I think that's a great improvement over what was in there in the past and it's just really nice to see that they're progressing in that area that's not the only thing though that we have new and photoshopped cc if I bring a different image into wrong at the top of my screen on the left side we have that whole list of tools and all the tools are used to having it up there but there's a new one it looks kind of like two ovals overlapping each other that is the radio uh filter. And with that I can click on my image and dragged to define an area like this and then the sliders that I have over on the right will affect just those areas that I've defined I could come in here and I could bring this up or down and right now notice that it's controlling the area out outside of that circle I'll show you how to get it inside in a sec I'm just going to dark and what's outside there because I might want your attention to go into this particular area if on the other hand I hit the letter x the letter x will exchange which side is being affected so if I didn't want to work and everything it's outside the circle instead I wanted what was inside. I just hit the letter acts and it exchanges it and now maybe what I really wanted to do was brighten up that one area right here to draw your attention to it. Maybe I also wanted to make it a little bit even warmer than it wass and maybe a little bit more colorful or less colorful depending on the situation I can dial in exactly what I need there to draw your attention to it. Now when you're drawing these out, you can put more than one of these in your image so I could put one in this area that I could click and drag over here on the right side to create another one and so you can kind of spill light in various areas of your image just remember you hit the letter x to get the opposite but it's going to give you the opposite overall there and so you really have to think about it ahead of time uh other things you can do is when you're dragging those out if you hold the shift key, it will give you a circle shift means constrain if it's not a circle instead it's an oval like this one then if you move your mouse outside of it just a little bit outside you're going to find that your mouse turns into little curved arrows so you can rotate then you could find to in the angle if you want to constrain the angle if you hold shift, he'll go on lian fifteen percent increments so if you don't like that you're just moving all over the place you could hold shift to do that let's see what else we have in here hit the lead if I want to get rid of any one of those and let's see when I come in if I want a toggle the overlay so you know how when I'm clicking and drag and I can see this little overlay if I hit the letter v again toggle the overlay it's the same is clicking on the check box it's found near the lower right so if you forget the keyboard shortcut you could just use thie checkbox or if you hover over this it should remind you that over on the end there the letter v would toggle the overlay if you add one of these and you want to I have more than one let's say I have more than one people person in a photo and I want to spill a little bit of light onto each face. That's in the photograph. If I have one of these, I can duplicate them. If I want to duplicate them, I need to hold down two keys of my keyboard. The key would be option, which would usually remove one if I just clicked and command. If I have option and command held down, I could drag it. And now I have more than one of these, so I could put it on more than one face within the image if I wanted to brighten up, uh, the individual faces and all that there's a whole bunch of other stuff you can do with it. But the main thing is you can spill light on particular areas or darken particular areas, but it's in an oval shape. And once you've gotten one on, just grab these little side handles, you can resize it any size you'd like. Click on the middle and you could move it around if you want to get rid of it. Hit the delete key and it's just a matter of figuring out which images yours could really be. Useful to do it in an oval around shape in the past we had to be t either brush it in with the adjustment brush where we had a graduated filter where it was like in a straight line, but now we also have this new one, which is the radio filter and it's found at the top of the camera dialog box also photoshopped cc they've changed something where they've made it easier to work on hdr images. Now I know I had an hd our image one of the other days I don't have it in this particular folder by chance, but I'm going to go see if I can find it take me just a moment here it is in photo shop cc they've met it, so if you select multiple images, you go to the tools menu choose photo shop if you want to combine those exposures into a single photo shopped file, you can choose merge to hdr pro, which is not new, but let me show you once this is done where the new sadness she had just taken a moment he'd been do too much of hdr photography when your roundabout I do a lot of the fdr photography although I find I've been doing less and less because the it'll be came around plugin has become so much better at extracting shadow detail and bringing back highlight detail that I'm finding years ago, I would do it like all the time when about shooting and now I only do it when it's really an extreme situation. But I still do quite a good amount of it. Nice. Yeah. So anyway here's the exposures and lower left that it's combining together and it thinks at the moment that I'd like to process it right here in this dialog box. But I find I get a better looking and result if I use camera to apply this I showed you I think yesterday how to do that, which was to change this menu over to thirty pit two bit and then click okay, you could save it as a tiff file and then open it through camera. But in photo shop cc they've added a check box down here called complete toning in adobe camera and if I have that turned on, then all you do here is this button will change, whereas if I have that turned off, it just says, okay, and I get a thirty two bed file, but if I turn this on, it changes the tone in a cr I click okay, and I don't have to save out that tiff file in my hard drive and then manually reopen it through the dough, became a raw instead in just a moment came home it's doing all the work for me you know usually would take this amount of time and I would just have to be doing these process manually but now I don't have to remember all the little details of it what we end up with is in my layers panel and if you saw it there or not but it's a smart object a little spartan logic icon and it's now using the camera filter on it so I can process this image without having to go back and forth and get a bunch of weird files or just extra work so what I usually do with the raw file I'm sorry not a raw file hdr file to start with just bring shadows all the way up highlights all the way down and then adjust your exposure to get the overall look and that's just kind of a starting point uh in pretty much bringing your shadows down is going to give you I'm sorry bring your highlights and was going to give you your highlight detail bring your shadows up is going to give you your shadow detail then adjusting the exposure will give you the overall look of the image harvey had like and once you get that point you just find two in the sliders they're here like you would any raw file so if you're used to adjusting raw files it's relatively easy when you're done click okay and you're going to have this as your, uh, and result what's nice about it is if I wanted to apply more than one setting to this image, maybe I want a different setting for out in the distance where the temple is. What I should be able to do here is go to the layer menu, go to smart objects and there's, a choice called new smart object beat via copy. What new smart object via copy means is usually when you duplicate a smart object, the two layers that you end up with are identical in a change that you make toe one will affect the other, but if I choose new smart object, be a copy, this can be completely independent of the other, and if I double click on the camera filter, I could tell it to use a completely different setting here. Maybe a different white balance setting or one of the others may be different clarity or anything else, and then I'll click okay, and I could add a lair mask and then paint with black wherever I don't want this to appear, and I could get rid of it out here in the surroundings where I might not want the white balance to be that setting or those other. Choices that air there. So I can have more than one interpretation. Kind of that and masking them. So they appear in different areas so you can end up being a little more refined with their hdr.

Class Description

Part of the Complete Photoshop Mastery Bundle.

Throughout this series, we've covered many huge topics (retouching, adjustments, collage, etc.). In this final installment, we fill in the gaps between big thoughts with the more subtle concepts that are essential to taking full control of Photoshop. This is the stuff you rarely see taught, but true experts use on a daily basis. I'll start by revealing a bunch of hidden and hard to find features that you probably don't know exist because you have to type odd keyboard shortcuts or go through other loopholes to find them. I'll then show you how far you can push your adjustments before they start to lower the quality of the image. We'll do that by popping the hood in Photoshop to reveal how those adjustments may be harming the underlying integrity of your image.

I'll then show you how to manipulate Photoshop's features to get them to do things they were not designed to do. This way, you can extend Photoshop further than even the programmers envisioned. I'll also talk about many of the little features that never get covered in classes but are overly useful. Finally, we'll dive into a few geeky features that are not for the faint of heart like variables, apply image and calculations.

Whether you're still fairly new to Photoshop or you're an advanced user, there is sure to be techniques in this class you will want to add to your mental toolbox.

Software Used: Adobe Photoshop CC 14.0


RDM Photography

I have always enjoyed watching any of Mr Willmore's courses, engaging and entertaining with a gentle professionalism, with a good pace of delivery for the target audience. What I so enjoy is that the underlying theory is 'correct' with obvious care and understanding of the terms used and this speaks volumes as to the instructor's commitment. I have always learnt something from these courses and this was no exception.

Jose A De Leon

This is by far the best investment I've made. Ben is a qreat teacher. I watch repeatedly the videos over and over until the concepts become second nature. Since I bought the complete bundle, I can go back when ever I want and watch again. My Photoshop skills have improved exponentially. I'm extremely happy I made this purchase.

Lemmi Kann

I just started to get familiar with Photoshop and know the basic. After watching just first three lessons I am totaly blown away - I can see how much far I can go with editing my photos, what possibilities I have. I edited some of my photos and they look way better now! Ben Willmore is excellent lector and I encourage the beginners to buy this class too. It's easy to understand and follow if you already know what is layer and mask.