Lessons
Day 1
1Free Preview: Camera RAW: Exposure & Contrast
42:43 2Camera RAW Q&A
20:25 3Camera RAW: Color
23:03 4Understanding Histograms
07:57 5Camera RAW: Localized Changes
35:36 6Understanding Saturation Clipping
09:42 7Camera RAW: Noise Reduction & Lens Correction
16:34Curves
44:44 9Curves Q&A
20:46 10Keyboard Shortcuts & Adjustment Layers
24:41 11Review of Curves & Adjustment Layers
16:13 12Hue/Saturation
19:08 13Day 1 Q&A
14:27 14Day 1 Wrap-Up
03:40Day 2
15Day 2 Pre-Show Banter
13:26 16Review of Day 1 Process
38:53 17HDR
33:41 18Advanced Layer and Masking Techniques
29:29 19Using Curves with Color
39:42 20Color Correction
35:04 21Color Correction Q&A
14:30 22Example Photos with Curves and Adjustments
25:09 23BONUS: Printing Tips
03:42 24Retouching
23:27 25Advanced Retouching
19:49 26Directing the Viewer's Eye
16:43 27Day 2 Wrap-Up
01:12Day 3
28Day 3 Pre-Show Banter
10:52 29Fixing Lens Flare
14:36 30Hiding Clouds
15:47 31Color, Hue, and Saturation
08:21 32Essential Keyboard Shortcuts
13:18 33Technical Issues
15:00 34Preparing Images for the Web
18:36 35Exposure Bracketing and Photo Stacking
15:52 36Blending Modes
35:07 37Review and Q&A
05:05 38File Formats
21:12 39Brush Tools
14:34 40Transplanting Clouds
20:39 41Selective Focus
18:00 42Converting to B&W
20:03 43Color Spaces
22:03 44Thanks + Credits
03:56 45Fixing Extreme Problems
20:33 46Sharpening Images
23:41 47Day 3 Wrap-Up
04:59Lesson Info
Review and Q&A
questions in the audience. Yes, so if you knew you were going to be blending and whatnot. But let's say you didn't have your exposure quite right. Would you fix that first before you went into the lighten and darken would just fix that first? What I would do is if I knew I had. My exposure was off when I I should Ron. So these would have come in through camera. I would have opened them all, came around the same time. And then before I moved any of the sliders in camera and Seamus thumbnails down the left side, above them would be a button called Select All. I would hit that button so they're all selected. And then I would optimize the images of the exposure, looked as good as I could get it. And then only after that would I do this. And I would just have to make sure that whatever change I make affects all of the images equally. What would you do saturation at that point? Or vibrance and everything, anything that would make it look better as long as the same adjustment is applied to al...
l of those actually went and photographed a waterfall last weekend. So go home and and if you find your camera moved a little bit while you're exposing, because sometimes people either don't have. If you have that kind of tripod designed for video use or you have a tripod, that's not tall enough, and you have to use the center column thing to go up. Those aren't all that great. And so if you find there's a little bit of movement between your shots, couple suggestions is first off instead of pressing the shutter to take the pictures, ideally using cable release. But if you don't have one user self timer in on the most modern cameras, you can choose between a 12th self timer and a two second to second. Self timer to me is like a cable release. It means don't shake the camera. You hit the button two seconds later, takes one. Hit the button again. Then you could use Ottawa line layers if there was a little movement between them to get in the lineup. Merkel. I have a question from Shark DVR in Charlotte, North Carolina, who asked, What do you consider this HDR putting the sky in his HDR doing what we did in the waterfall into the mist is not HDR is any time that you extend the dynamic range of something dynamic. Range means brightness range. So doing what we did to the waterfall didn't really extend the brightness range in the image but getting the sky and did. And if I wanted to shoot it and have the sky look this way, I would use what's known as a graduated neutral density filters. That means a filter that's tinted and it slowly fades off is it goes down to clear glass. You could slide that and haven't cover up just the sky. The problem would be here where these rocks extend up in the image on the right side. Those the top of them would look dark because the neutral density filters straight across and it would get into that. But yes, putting this guy in this, you could call high dynamic range. So just quickly going back to the Yosemite or the Yes, the other one, not somebody Yellowstone image of a couple of people had asked and forgive me if you answer this Miss Maar and Garrick, can you get rid of the steam and the people. Is it possible to remove the people like by lightning and remove the scene by darkening? You could possibly, although people in that particular case are only being would only work because they're silhouetted. If they weren't silhouetted. If they were exposed in such a way, where where you could see highlights and shadows and things within them, lighten and darken mode wouldn't be of any use getting them disappear. Instead, what I would have to do is use masks. What I would do is in one layer. I would mask it. So wherever the people are, it disappears and hopefully on one of the layers below. There's a version where that area doesn't have people. The problem is, if there's a really popular spot in Yellowstone will always be a person there, meaning when one moves and other ones already there before you can take another picture. And but we can find out. Just do this real quick like these. He's lightened people. I see one guy right there. He's probably standing there the whole time. He's like the guy wanted almost shoot because he's like, ruins the whole thing. But I'll choose Undo here and you see how the people are pretty much going away, enlightened mode that, oh, sure spot, he'll him out. There's all sorts of things I can do. But the main thing is, don't expect this to be able to get rid of people on a regular basis. It might be able to get rid of silhouetted people that are surrounded by shiny stuff like water, so it's very specific to this image where it happened to be that way.
Class Materials
bonus material with purchase
Ratings and Reviews
Jim Pater
I taught Photoshop (version 5) to graphic design students at the college level. I had great fun teaching. This is the perfect course to show others how they might go about teaching a Photoshop course. Congratulations Ben, on your excellent teaching style and methods. I thought I already knew quite a bit about Photoshop but this course made me aware that there's always more that you can learn.
Ron Greathouse
This course is one of the best Creative Live Courses that you have made available to us. I have purchased at least 12 courses and this course is my personal favorite. Ben is an excellent instructor and should be teaching at the university level. He is great!