Applying the Armhole Binding
So we have our neckline found and I've already done one of the arm holes so we're going to use our other remaining binding on the remaining armed paul it's really, really similar to how we did the neckline with one difference the neckline has an ending point right where the zipper is and naturally comes to an end where the arm hole is a circle and we have a binding that is a strip so we have to at some point loop it around enjoying the binding to form the circle to fit the arm hole but like I described earlier I don't have this exactly size to fit the arm hole because that's a spot I find on most of my students that they need to adjust all the time toe make it a little bit bigger to accommodate your arms are making a little smaller to accommodate a little smaller arm so we're going to size this to fit we're going to start at the under armed seem and just like how we did the neck finding we're going to open up this binding and we're going to be pinning the top edge in line with the raw ...
edge of the fabric but right here I want to leave about an inch inch and a half or so extra beyond where the seam actually is you don't need a ton but if you have it to spare it's nice to leave a good inch or so I'm on a pin right at that seem first and then I'm gonna make my way around working with the circle and it's a much tighter circle then we had with the neck finding so you really just want to again work with the circle and come around and line up that edge and let the wider part of the circle fall around? So I'm just bringing it to match and letting the excess draped down come around here, I'm at my shoulder seem and just like we've been doing, you want to make sure that you're seem allowing stays in the direction you want it too, so I'm gonna pin right through that spot to ensure that it stays towards the back how I pressed in and I'm gonna come around making my way to where I started and this part is obviously what's different I need to close this loop and it's not as complicated as it may seem, so right here there's my seem and I'm going to bring this remainder of the strip right up against that seimas well and pin right there those two pins are right next to each other, but that's going to do is hold that in place so that I can actually draped the dress so it's hanging down in the seam is out facing the binding and I can see that if I stitch the binding right here it's going to be right in line with that seem on my dress so I want a pin that right in line with the edge of the fabric and where I put those pins is actually where I'm going to stitch and I'm putting the heads of the pens down so that they're facing me while I'm sewing, so hopefully you can see that clearly there's the seam and I'm pin just outside that seem I'm going to take those two pins out of the way so it's no longer pinned to the arm hole right there and this is free because I want to so right at that spot so I wanna bring my machine over and don't worry about any of this excess finding at this point and with a regular straight stitch I'm gonna line up with where that ten is do my back stitch and close the loops but those friends at this point I can now trim this extra seem alone or the extra binding away I'm gonna leave about a quarter of an inch and now when I let it go it's going to line up with my arm hole you can press this part open right now if you like, I usually finger press it, meaning I smooth this out with my finger and I find that that's adequate for this next step and I wanna pin that in place just make sure that everything on either side of it hasn't really shifted and just give those guys a little bit of a repin. So now that's a loop that's fit size to fit the arm hole that I'm using, so I haven't altered my arm hole, but like I said before, if you did, you just simply do that, so it fits whatever you've decided to alter your arm hole, too. Now, just like we did with the neckline we're going to so all the way around the circle in that first groove, I like to start in the under arms seem so that my back stitching is hidden, and if you have a machine that has an open arm like this, it's a really easy way to slide the arm hole right on there. A lot of people have, like an accessory tray. This is a good moment to take all of that off so that the circle of the arm hole just fits right over there. It's plenty big to do it. You never want to stretch your piece out to fit over the arm, but it shouldn't be a problem with this arm home, and we're gonna backstage at the beginning and just like we did with the neck finding, I'm gonna stay in that first groove. And I'm gonna keep all of this excess fabric out of the way and keep my curves smooth to the right and keep those raw edges of fabric lined up on the right hand side. Work your way around, rotating your fabric as you go wear almost at the very beginning way. We'll do our back such again, trim those threads off again, just like we did with the neck binding. We're now going to trim that seem allowance in half, down to about an eighth of an inch again, very, very carefully, because we're so close to the end, we don't want to cut through the front of our dress a little less room because we are working in this month much tighter circle at this point, but just take your time, so it should be fun make her way around to where we started and just like we did with the neck, finding, we need to press that seem that we just made so that it's nice and crisp, and the seam allowance is going towards the binding so that we can close it and roll it all to the inside, so we don't see it at all, so next we're going to go to the iron and press that, so we want to press just like we did with the neck, finding we want a press. This little bit right here always making sure that our seem allowance is going towards the binding, so as always we're going toe utilize our ham and we're going to slide that in their toe work with that curve, making sure that the binding or the seam allowances going towards the binding and I'm going to take a moment now and press this all the way around and then we're going to top stitch it just like we did with the neck finding and then press it again at the very end to make sure it's nice and flat so just like we did for the next finding, we went through all of the steps for the arm hole by name first we sewed it on, then we trimmed the seam allowance in half or down to about an eighth of an inch pressed the first full, making sure that that center crease was still intact and making sure that the seam allowance was going towards the binding and then folding all of that to the inside and top, stitching it in place for a really nice finish. As always, we want to give it all a final press making sure that we're working with the curve, so of course we have our ham under there and just like with the neck biting, it helps keep it flat and not sort of puckering out in a weird way it also sets the stitches. The heat is really good for the threat. We will make our way around to where we started after this there's. Only one step left, which is hemming that's the same on either skirt for view a or view be. I'm going to continue to demonstrate it here on view, a on it's going to be the final step to complete our dress.