Cutting out the Fabric
Once you've checked your fit by making a muslin going to go and cut our regular fabric out our main fabric for sewing our dress you definitely want to make sure that you pre wash your fabric in the way that you intend to care for it in the future I always pre wash a little bit warmer then I intend to actually wash it I wash all of my dresses in cold it hang them to dry but when I pre washed my fabric I wash it on warm and I put it in a hot dryer so that any shrinkage that's gonna happen is gonna happen at that time now this is mostly if I'm using cottons and linens and those kinds of fabrics so just be really sure that you've checked with the people you bought your fabric from or the content if you're using a fine silk or using wall obviously the care would be a little bit different for this dress most of the time we're going to be using cottons and linens and those kinds of logan's and it's pretty much safe to know that you can wash and dry alot of those fabrics but we want to do that...
first and then obviously give our fabric or really good press with the iron when you go to pressure fabric it's really important to stay with the length and cross grain instead of stretching the fabric out by pressing on the bias which is the stretch is part of the fabric, so we really want to make sure that we're retaining the fabric and not working it while we're pressing in after we've gotten everything pressed, we have our pattern pieces, whether they're cut out or they've been traced, we're going to put them on our fabric and cut them out. You can pin them down and use scissors, you can use weights and a rotary qatar, whatever you're comfortable with, and given that this class is not a beginner level, I'm not goingto go into a tremendous amount of detail about how to put your pattern pieces on grain. Um, but you should know that a grain line should always be parallel with your salvage, so make sure that you use your clear ruler and measure from your salvage to your grain line and make sure it's on grain. Other pattern markings you want to be really aware of the place on fold line, there are a handful of pieces that need to be placed on the fold so that when you cut it there, it opens up into a mirror image and there are a couple pieces that are going to be on the bias now the biased binding as well as the piping. Are going to be on the bias, but there are a couple of pieces that optionally could be put on the bias this is one of them it's the waistband piece and you can see here that I have a place on grand line I also have a place on bias line so the waistband and the pockets can both be put on the bias and I haven't example here of how that looks so the gingham on the way span and the pockets have both been cut on the bias, so it goes on the diagonal it's a really nice detail, especially for something like this where the print would just get lost all the way down and you can play up with the checks if you have something like a gang amar plaid or a stripe any sort of check that's a really nice detail to show off the lines of the garment you also want to take a couple other things into account. So we're going to reference our chart on the inside of our instructions and you want to make sure that you're using the layout that goes with the fabric that you're using and the view that you're making so first thing I would do is find the view so I have you a fabric forty five inches wide, but what if I'm using a sixty inch wide fabric? Well then I would go down and fine view a which is on the next page view a fabric sixty inches wide if I'm using view being I would find that which corresponds with the width of my fabric or of course I have the option of using a border print so there's a view here for view a fabric forty five inch wide border print and we talked a little bit about that in the fabric selection but a border print would be a detail that has a fabric that has a detail facing the salvage so you would be cutting this skirt that I'm wearing here a facing the salvage would be cutting across grain to take advantage of this border so that that border khun b at the bottom of the skirt so there's a separate view for cutting if you're using a border print because we need to turn the skirt pieces cross grain ah couple other things to keep in mind pattern instructions they're going to say right in the instruction section whether or not the layouts taken to account directional fabrics. So it says right on the back here on my pattern that the layouts and quantity for the yardage required takes into account directional print or a nap so what that means is that if I'm going to use this print that I used here or if I'm going to use these cute birds that I have down here on the table of course want my flowers and my birds all going up right on my entire dress, so the chart that I have on the back of my patterns that tells you the yardage required allows for all of the pieces to be going head to toe on the fabric with directional print, and you'd always want to read the pattern the same way you would read the print on the fabric, so if I'm reading this down that's the same way I would want to read my fabric because would be the upper part this would be the lower part of the peace, whether that shoulder and waste or waste and ham, so I'd want my birds going in the same direction is my print my pattern peas if I'm not using a directional fabric and I decided not, and or I should say I decide not to make my own bias finding or my piping, I can probably get away with even the last fabric than I've called for in the instructions, but it's good to know the maximum abound required so that you're you're guaranteed to have enough to make any view in any situation that you encounter. So you're going to reference your chart here and lay out all of the pieces the way that I have it here unless you could do better because you're not using a directional print, we'll let everybody out well, either wait it down and use a rotary qatar, or pin it down and caught all of them out. And then we'll move on to marking and sewing, which is next.