Exposing with DSLR and Mirrorless Cameras
So now we're going to walk through some of the basics of a DSLR wireless camera when you go into your menu settings, you want to select basically what resolution are you shooting and what are the frames per second resolution is you know are you shooting HD are you shooting 1920 by 10 80? Are you shooting 7 20? Are you shooting four K. You'll be able to find all these in your camera and you should be able to know pretty easily what your options are in terms of resolution for most things today you can get away with 1920 by 10 84 K. Is obviously a hot topic right now but when you're first starting off it's not necessary and it's not necessary by any means. What is important to know about is frames per second. So in the film world 23. frames per second is what is considered standard for most people it's sort of gives you that cinematic quality. It has a less digital look to it. Tv for example is actually 30 frames per second. So those are some of your two options to go between 23 98 and 29...
.97 or 30 frames per second. If you want to be shooting slow motion and do some work in post you can't shoot 60 frames per second on a lot of these cameras. But really for now we're just going to stick with 23 it's sort of the go to for most people doing narrative or commercial work unless you're doing slow mo so my camera's set at 1920 by 10 80 23.976 frames per second. Those are the first two things you want to go in and check what those are. Now when it comes to actually shooting, we get to exposure and how to expose your camera properly. There's three key things for this. There's your shutter speed, your f stop and your I. S. O. I always set my shutter at a sort of set speed more or less. And and this is really just industry standard, more or less. So for 23. frames per second, you want to double that for your shutter speed. So typically I do 1 48 but for this camera I have 1/50. Currently this allows you to have a little bit, a little very very little bit of motion blur, but not too much. You can see If I go to let's say 1 15th shutter, I'm starting to get stopped down a little bit, you can see I'm getting much more motion blur and this can be very distracting for your audience at the same time. It can give a cool effect. Sometimes you know maybe you're doing a dream sequence and you want that sort of ghostly effect. It can be really cool on the other end, let's go up to You know, 1,000th of a shutter. And this is I think for a lot of young filmmakers you go outside and you have all this light and so you bring the shutter way up because for photography you can do that. But when it comes to video, what that does is it it makes a much more sterile feeling image, it's very sharp, there's no blur whatsoever. And some people really like this look but it can feel very sterile. My recommendation is to just stick with, you know, 1/50 again, you sort of double your frames for a second. So if you're shooting 30 frames per second, you want it to be at 1/60. If you're shooting uh 60 frames per second, you want to do 1 1/20 per second. That's all for shutter speed. And so I'm at 1/50 shutter and I'm at F 1.8. What F 1 .8 means is inside the lens here you more or less have these blades and they open and close. This affects how much light is actually coming in through your lens. So 1.8 is extremely open. It's allowing a lot of light in and in return, what this does is it gives you a very shallow depth of field. The reason people Love Meer, Listen, DSLR cameras is because they give you that cinematic look, they they have, you know, your your subject nicely in focus and everything else behind it, out of focus. Now, if you stop down your f stop, what happens is you you start to lose a lot of light but more becomes in focus. So where if your F. 1.8, maybe only this plant in the front of the elephants and focus as you open up that or as you close down that f stop to a larger number more will become in focus. And this is really great for you know, tv or for sports when you don't necessarily need just this one small plane in focus. But maybe you want the entire face and focus or or maybe you're shooting something moving really fast and it's just harder to catch focus like that. So stopping down can be really good. Obviously I'm at 1/50 shutter and F. 11 now so it's much darker. So the third thing that you have to do is adjust your I. S. O. Your I. S. O. Is how sensitive to light your sensor is. How much light do you need really to expose that image? Because I've now closed down the iris. So it's letting in less light. So I have to make this the S. O. Higher. I have to make it more sensitive to light. So I'm at I also 100 now and again f. 11, shutter speed 1/50. So I'll bring the S. O. Up and you can see so I just brought it up all the way to 3200 I. S. O. For most cameras I would not recommend going over 1600 S. O. For the Sony A. Seven S. It's known for its low light capabilities and being able to really push the I. S. So you can see now compared to earlier, much more than focus. You can see that table in the background more clearly. It still has a depth to it, but you can tell what's back there. So these are really three key things when it comes to exposure, your shutter, speed, your eye, so your f stop and they all sort of it's all dance between the three of these to get a well exposed image. But you also want to decide, You know, how shallow depth of field do you want? Maybe it's not 1.8, maybe it's a four. This is Really well a lot of people shoot out so you go to four and then you realize, oh well I need more light so keep the shutter at the same thing. Bring up your S. O. Though. And this is also where lighting comes into play. Maybe you need to bring in an extra light. Maybe I need to move around so that I have more light coming from this window here. These are all important things to pay attention to. But those are the basics of getting good exposure with your DSLR meaningless camera. Yeah