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Image Management

Lesson 3 from: Adobe® Photoshop® Creative Cloud® Starter Kit

Ben Willmore

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Lesson Info

3. Image Management

Lesson Info

Image Management

a couple things before we get into another project. Now that we're in kind of in between projects, I want to show you first. Let's go to bridge. I have bridge visible in the right edge of my screen, so that's how I'll get to it. Click over there. Ah, a couple things we didn't cover Enbridge for. At least one is if you ever want to change the name of your files, you can easily do that within bridge. And I just want to give you a tip about doing it here. If you look in bridge, I'm gonna click on one of my files and then I'll just click on the name. And if I click on the name, it should highlight it, and it leaves the file extension unhappily did. So you're not gonna accidentally change, and I can just name this. Let's see if I want to name all the images in this folder, I can hit the tab key and the tab key will usually send me to the next picture. But the tab key and it's gonna send me to the next and so on. Now, in this particular case, I might be sorting my images by file name. And so...

the moment I'm done naming a file, it's moving because in the sorting order it would go down in an alphabetical fashion. But if I wasn't sorting that way, if instead I went to the View menu chose sort and say, I want to start this by date created or something like that, then they wouldn't be changing the order. So no activity here to say one hit tab to three. Just a nice thing to know that you could do that very quickly if you need to. When you're done, just press, return or enter or just click on a different picture. Another thing that I'd like to describe is what happens if I double click on one image to open it. And then I go back to bridge a double click on another picture to open it. And then I go back to bridge and I double click on another picture to open it. And it seems like there's only one picture open, like what's going on? Well, what's happening is at the top of my screen, you'll notice that all of these images opened as little tabs, just like you can have more than one website open in a Web browser at the time, and you see them as tabs on the top of your screen. The same thing is happening here in a photo shop, and I can click between these tabs by just clicking on the name of each tab, an old change, which image I'm viewing at the moment. And if I want to move something between documents, eso instead of dragging from bridge, let's say I already have the image open. How can I get it between these documents? Or if you want to view more than one document at the same time to compare them? How can I do that when they're stuck in these tabs? So let's talk about that. There are two different ways of getting something between two taps. If I want to get this picture over to the other, I could copy and paste it. If I go to the edit menu, though, you'll find that copy is usually grayed out because it doesn't know how much of the picture you want to copy. You need to tell it how much of the image you want to use and so copies great out doesn't know how much you want to use. Yet I can go to the select menu in select All select. All is going to put little marks on the edge of my picture here. It's known as the selection. We'll talk about those yet, and that means we're working on the entire image. So now if I go to the edit menu and choose copy, it can copy it. Then I could click on a different tab cover here. I could go to the edit menu and choose paste. And if you watch in the layers panel when I choose paste, you'll see I have another layer in there now. And so I've gotten it between those two documents. That's one method copy and paste. You know, throw away that layer by dragging it down to the bottom of the layers panel. The bottom right icon on the layers panel is a trash can. If I drag it there, I'll get rid of it. The other way I could get things between two documents is I wouldn't need a selection. I'll say, de select, Which means get rid of it. I could just use the move tool. Let's look at how it's done. I'm gonna click within this document anywhere, but I'm going to remember where I clicked. Remember, here there's a face and one of these lower lanterns that air here. I'm gonna click right in between the eyes on that face on the lantern click. And now I'm going to drag my mouse until it's on top of another tab. And when I get my mouth's on top of the other tab, As long as my mouse button was held down when I moved it over there that Tabal come to the front, then I'm not gonna let go yet. I need to move my mouse within that document so it's not still on top of the town, and I'm gonna move it until my mouse is right in between the eyes on this mask that's here. Now watch what appears right where my mouse is when I let go. You see, it's right in between the eyes and the other one, meaning it remembered where I clicked on the first image and it's moving the entire image. But it's going to align the area where I clicked with exactly where I'm letting go, and there I. Also, it created a new layer when I got it over there, so we can either copy and paste between the two documents or weaken drag and drop using the move tool. So if you have more than one image open and you want to move in between, that's one method you could use for it. I'm gonna drag this letter to the trash can at the bottom of my layers panel just because I was only using it to demonstrate that I don't actually need it in that file. But now what if I want to compare more than one image? I want to see more than one of the time here if they're stuck in town, so I can only switch between them by clicking on them. Just so you know each tab there is an X that would close the document, but I can also click on the tab in drag down in its longest. I dragged down far enough where I see some feedback, which just shows it becoming its own window. Then I can let go. It's just sitting there now. It's a floating window. I could go back up here, grab the next tab and drag it down. Now I have to floating windows or I can grab the next drag it down, and now I have three. And so then I could zoom in and zoom out on these using what's under the view menu, usually to zoom in and zoom out. One method that I just got used to have been using it for 20 years is the type command plus in command minus to zoom in and zoom out. It's the same as choosing these two choices. So command minus click on the next one command minus that's control minus and windows. And do that now. I don't remember in Windows if this has changed yet or not, but it used to be in Windows. If you did, command minus, it would actually look like this. Where the window that looks that contains the image would not change in size. I'm doing something here. Hold on a second. I'm using a keyboard shortcut that I would only use on Windows, and the Mac hasn't set to do something else. So it's launching a program or doing something else. But just so you know, if that happens on Windows, when you try to zoom in and zoom out in the window itself stays the same size instead of moving along with it, you can add the option key to that keyboard shortcut, which is what I just did to get it. To stop acting that way in that would mean leave the window the same size, but zoom in or zoom out on the file. There's also a preference in photo shops, preferences, something about zooming windows along with the image itself, where you could force it to be that way all the time. Now, when you have these a separate windows like this, you gotta be careful If you click on the title bar, where the name of the file is and you drag. If you drag one really close to another watch for feedback, it doesn't care that the image is getting near that other one. It cares with my mouse is. So if you look at the tiny little arrow that indicates my mouse when that gets over there, do you see a blue box appear around it? That means I'm about to combine those two together so that now if I expand this out a little bit, you can see their separate tabs in one window. So if you ever dragged the title bar one close to another picture, get it up near the top, you're gonna find you get a little blue box that says, Hey, you're about to combine those Now Some people absolutely cannot stand tabs. They find that the thes things combined together on them when they never want them to, and they want to be able to see their documents of separate pieces. If that's the case, here's how you can get rid of tabs altogether. If you go to the Photoshopped menu on a Macintosh in Choose Preferences. Ah, in Windows, you have to go to the edit menu because there is no Photoshopped menu to get to preferences. It's under, I believe, interface under interface. There are two check boxes you'd want to turn off. The 1st 1 is called open documents as tabs, and if that's turned off, then instead of showing up is tabs within a single window. They show up a separate documents that float just like I had a moment ago. The other thing you'd want to turn off is this other check box that's so fluently named its enable floating document window docking. What that means is, if I drag one window near another, that they combined together is to separate tabs within the same window. If you turn that off when you dragged one window near another, they'll never combine in. So if you hate tabs, you could turn off those two check boxes and then you'll never see tabs again unless you do something like go to the window menu. And there'd be some choices for working with tabs if you didn't really have to go out of your way to use them. But I got used to TAB, so I'm gonna leave those on. Just want to make sure you are aware of how to do that. If you're one of those people that can't stand tabs, the same kind of people are usually means you used an old version of photo shop. And if he used an old version of photo shop, there's one other thing that sometimes drives people nuts. And what that is is an old old versions of Federer shop. You could always see what was behind Photoshopped. You could see if bridges back there or your desktop or whatever programs were running. And now there's this gray area that is there instead, which I got completely used to, and I'm fine having there. But if you hated and you wish it was like the really old versions of photo shop, then here's how you could get back to that Look, if you go to the window menu at the very bottom of the window. Menu is a choice down here called Application Frame. If I turn that off, the dark gray that just fills the areas that don't have anything within the interface will go away and they'll see whatever this is some note application. That's what this thing started up when I type that keyboard shark it by that was assigned to something else anyway. Now I'm seeing Photoshopped. I can see my desktop. That's my desktop picture back there. I can see bridge. I can see all sorts of other things. So if you hate some of the changes they made in more recent versions of photo shop, that's how you can somewhat get back. I got used to the new stuff, so I'm gonna turn the application frame back on. I find it's great especially when teaching new people to Futter shop. If I was in a hands on classroom, half the problems I'd end up with is somebody accidentally clicked somewhere and got out of photo shop and suddenly there in the finder of On the Mac or some other program. And they are still trying to get federal shop to work, and they're not even in photo shop because they clicked on something else. But with this application frame, it's hard to get out of photo shop without doing it on purpose. All right, so now it's do another project. And let's also talk about the project. We already worked on a little bit. I'm gonna go to Bridge. I'll dio Option command. Oh, that would be all control. Oh, and Windows. That was the keyboard truck. And you remember when I saved my image and if you remember it, I saved on the desktop. So here, within bridge, I'm just going to go to my list of folders on the left side and click on desktop to see what's there. There's my file. It's called postcard. I'll just double click on it to open it. Remember, we have our gods sitting there, which was kind of our margins. If I want to hide those anytime you have something it doesn't print and doesn't show up in other programs, you can usually type command H Control H and Windows to hide. Type it again will show up again. If you wanted to manually hide those kinds of things, it would be under the View menu. Here there's a choice called Show and on the side menu you can choose exactly what it shows up in what doesn't so you could hide things like guys. But let's say that I want to use this image not just for a postcard that's five by seven inches, but I want to post this on my website. Well, this is not set up currently to be used on the website. If I take this image and I go to the file menu and I either choose save as and I say that, let's say, a J peg file format, which is a file format you used to the Internet or I choose save for Web. Either one of the two and I load this into a Web browser. It's going to look massively huge. I mean so huge that you're only gonna be able to see the upper left corner of it. I don't have a browser running right now, so I'm not gonna do that. But I'll show you what it would look like within Photoshopped. If we go to the image menu and choose image size will be able to see information about this file. When I go to image size, span this out here. It tells me we have an image that is seven inches wide, five inches tall and has a resolution of 300. 300. Simply means 300 pixels would show up in each inch, meaning their tiny, tiny, tiny pixels. You'll never be able to see them when you print them. But for the Internet, it's not looking at the width and height in pixels, and it completely totally ignores the setting called Resolution. The only thing it looks at is the width and height in pixels. Now it tells me that appear at the top. Do you see these numbers? If you think about a computer monitor like the one I'm working on right now, there's only a certain number of pixels that make up the width and height of your monitor. And if you have an image designed for printing this, these numbers here will probably so high that it would fill your entire screen. If you were to view that amount of information, it's just a lot of information. Let's see how I can figure out What will this look like on the Internet, and how can I get it to look the way I want? Size wise. So here, guys, when I go to the View menu, there is a choice called 100%. There's a keyboard shortcut for it if you use it all the time and that is command one, control one in Windows. I'm in a type command one. This is how big the image would look on the Internet. 100% view means that the little pixels that make up my picture each and every one of them are using a single pixel that makes up my screen, meaning that the to line up it, showing me if this was, ah, image that is 10 pixels wide and 20 pixels tall. It's using exactly 10 pixels of my screen in the width and 20 pixels in the height It's exactly how large it will look on the Internet, and this is too big. I wouldn't be able to see the whole thing. So here's how I figure out how to prep this for the Internet. I'm gonna zoom in or zoom out on the picture. Intelligence largest I wanted to appear in somebody's Web browser. I can do that in a few different ways. You have the zoom tool you could use, but I'm gonna do command plus and minus. Zoom in and zoom out. And I want this toe look that big in somebody's Web browser. So once I've zoomed in or out till it's the size I want it to be, what I want to do is look at the percentage that's listed at the top right here, 25% in this case. It's also listed in the bottom left corner, 25%. It's the same number, and I just want to remember it in my head. Then what I'm gonna do is take this image and go to image size in an image size. One of the things we can do is scale our picture, and we can scale it by typing in a new width, but we don't have to use inches. One of the things we could use is a percent. What I need to do right now is to get it to appear this size in a Web browser is simply type in whatever percentage is showing up on the top of the image. It's also in the bottom left corner, 25%. In this case, type it in right here. When this is set, the percent I click. OK, then the images going to suddenly look smaller. But remember, Internet View is the same is going to the view menu and choosing 100%. So let's go to that and see now if it's the size we desired. Yeah, it's exactly the size we desired. So I zoom in and zoom out of my picture. Until the size I wanted to look in a browser. I look at the percentage that shone both in the top edge of the image up where the name of the file is. It's also in the bottom left corner, and I go to image size 72% and type that in. That's going to scale it to look that size when it gets to the Internet. Then finally I go to the file menu and I don't want to choose. Save that would save over the file I already have. I could choose save as, and that would allow me to type in a new file name and choose a different file format. But if it's really going to go for the Internet, I want to choose safer. Web Safer Web will do a lot of things to your picture When I get a lot of things. Show up takes over your screen here, but it's going to combine all the layers so you don't have layers. It's going to convert your image into something called S RGB. All that means is gonna make sure the colors look the same when you get to the Internet. Uh, so it's going to take a step out. We would usually have to do, and it's gonna present me with some settings. Now there's a whole bunch of things that show up on my screen. The only thing I need to pay attention to is this menu right here means the file format I should use, and there are two general file formats they used for the Internet. I used J. Peg. If it's a photograph and I used Ping, if it's a graphic, a logo or signature or something, that doesn't look photographic. So this looks like a photo in general. So I'm gonna choose J. Peg. Then I can choose the quality in pretty much the lower the quality, the smaller the file size, but the worst. The image will look so usually medium. Or if you're picky, you can choose high and most of the other things you don't have to think about. You just hit the save button at the bottom. I'll call this postcard, and then I'll just dash web. So I remember, Why do I have this J peg here and I'll hit save. And now I've saved this out for the web. You gotta be careful, though. I scaled it down and I want to make sure that I'm very careful not to save this picture again over the original. So I'm gonna close the much by clicking on the little X up on the tablets here and when it Actually, if I want to save changes, I'm gonna say no because that means save the changes back into the original file. The one that was designed for printing. One of the thing we're gonna do with that. Let's go back to bridge. I'm actually gonna open the original file again. The tiff file? The one that was full size set it for printing. If I truly was gonna print this on a printing press, I'd actually need to do more to it. Any time you print on a printing press, if you ever have whatever your design is, go all the way out to the edge of the sheet of paper. You actually need to supply a file that's bigger than the sheet of paper. We made this a five by seven inch document and that's what the trim size would be. The actual sheet of paper they send through the printing press if it's a commercial printing job, not an inkjet printer, not some other one off thing. But if we're gonna print tens of thousands of these on a commercial printing press is they're going to use a larger sheet of paper than this. And when they're done, they're gonna trim away the excess to get it down to the trim size, which is what this is. So let's make sure we add a little bit of extra space here because what can happen is when they trim away that sheet of paper. The larger sheet, if they're trimming, is just the tiniest bit off. You'd see a white gap on the edge of the postcard where your image ended, but they didn't trim the paper exactly where they should have its off a little. So here's what I dio. I go to the image menu and we have image size, which is talking about how large the images we currently have. And then we have canvas size, which means should we add to or take away from, like crop into thean Midge to make it a different size? We'll cover that a little bit more later in the day, but for now I'm gonna choose canvas size, and here's what I'm gonna dio. It tells us we have the width of seven inches of height of five. I need to add a little bit extra so that I can set this up for pretty Notre Printing press. You have a choice of relative if you leave. That turned off. It means you need to type in the width and height you truly need. Like I could type in 7.25 here in 5.25 to make it a little bit bigger. Or, if I choose relative, it means how much do you want to add or take away? So if I type in 0. in 0.25 it's gonna add that much to whatever the width and height waas this down here means. Where should we put the original information within this new, larger document? After all, we're making it 1/4 inch larger, and I'll just say, Put it in the center. I click OK and watch what happens to damage. Look at where those guides are and you see, we just added space now. The texture that we had, we had scaled enough that it fits some of that space because it was going beyond the edge of our document. But now I need to click on the layer that contains that texture and make it even bigger to fill that little extra space. We have Type two Manti, which is the same as going to the edit menu. Remember that choice called free transform, but you're going to use it so much. Get used to command T control T and Windows, and I just need to spread that out a little bit further. And then when I load this into a page layout program or I give it to a printer, usually need to put crop marks in there to indicate where should they trim it? But you do need what's noticed. Bleed Bleed is making your document a little bit larger than it. You truly want to shoot a paper to be. It's so the printing company can print larger than they need. So when they trim away, they don't have to be absolutely precise. If they're off a little bit, there won't be a white gap, but you can talk to your print Incoming. More about those requirements if you're used to pretty, are pretty impressed

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Ratings and Reviews

Karl Donovan
 

Brilliant! Incredibly helpful. The most useful set of tutorials for beginner photoshop I've found. Plus well taught and easy to follow. Thanks heaps.

fbuser 500c136e
 

Ben is an incredible presenter. Engaging, enthusiastic, and informative, Ben had the difficult task of hold my attention for hours; and he did it effortlessly! What a great presentation! I highly recommend this one! :-)

user-b3892a
 

Thought I'd let you know, I watched several "classes" and I found yours the only one I was confident I could replicate what you have done. You provided all the steps verbally as well as visually, most presenters have gaps in their verbal instructions. Also, it was so packed with useful information, I actually got "full" before you were done. You provide a good return-on-investment in several ways. Thanks!

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