Front Edging of The Cardigan
all right. We're so close to being done with our card again. I'm super excited. We've made all of our pieces. We've seen them together. And now we need to work on giving a nice, clean finish edging around the neck so you can see on my big finished one how I've done in edging all the way up accommodating for R V neck curve. All right, so I'm gonna be showing you on our wee baby version. So we're gonna be working a really firm edging all the way down and around the side. I'm gonna start up up here at the top just because I'm working on what would be the left side. If I were working on the opposite side, I would start at the bottom. But that's just because the right side is facing. And that's what I want for this. All right, so I'm gonna find a nice, stable place to insert the hook, and I'm gonna pull the yarn through to join it Chain one, and I'm gonna single crush A in that exact same spot. Now we're again. We're dealing with Rose here, not stitches. So you're not gonna have always a cl...
ear space to work in. So you just need to use that intuition again a little bit. And when I say that it doesn't mean that you have Teoh automatically know you may have to actually work a few stitches, and if you see it bunching or pulling, you know that you have to add more or take away some. So what you want to do is you want a single cruciate evenly down the entire side of the sweater. So I'm going to do that now. I'm working down the neckline, but when I get to the corner and the corner will be where that shaping started for the neck, which is right around here to accommodate for that curve, we need to give it a little easy. We've been talking a lot about these lately, and to do that you want to work three single crow shays in that one corner stitch, and what that does is that creates a nice round edge without it pulling. Otherwise it would it would actually bunch up your corner, and it would never lay flat, and it would probably make your eye twitch from unsightly nous. And then you're from there on your just gonna single Cochet all the way down the peace. That's the only time in the whole piece that you'll ever have to do more than one single Cochet per stitch because that's our only shaping area that is not attached to another piece. And I'm kind of just jamming my hook honestly through the post of some of the stitches. And it will be a little bit different for each place because we're working with the whole stitch pattern that had different stitches at different times, you know, sometimes will be a really clear area. Sometimes you kind of have to just wing it. Keep going. You can see how nice and clean that's really looking. That really finishes it off. Because we worked with this relatively Lacey stitch. It really needs to have some stabilization so that it doesn't look messy because you're edges aren't at all, even at this point. Okay, almost there. Hooray! You can see sometimes it's not party. You just kind of have to jam your hook in. I just want to give you permission to do that. If you're unsure, just try it. The worst that can happen is it doesn't work and you have to pull it out a little bit. It's no big deal. Okay, so I've got my last stitch. So that's one row, but we want to have two rows of this single crush A So we've established we've done the hard part which was trying to figure out where to get all our hook in to create the stitches. So now it's the easy part. We just needed single Cochet in every single Cochet. So we chain one, we're gonna single Christian. That same stitches it as the last one because we don't count the single Cochet is a stitch or the Chain one Rather as a stitch, we're gonna work through both loops of the single crush A from the row below all the way up side. Okay, we're going all the way at the site, and we're actually we're working on the wrong side of the fabric right now. But again, single crush A is actually one of the stitches. That is pretty reversible. So you don't need to do anything special. So we want to go until we get to that next shaping, just like we did on when we're on the way out down, and so we need to still create that ease that was there before. So I think I'm there now. So I'm at that three single crush A in the one space from the row below. So what I want to do now is I want to work the three single Koshis, but I want to do it in the center of those stitches. So actually had one more toe work. So this is that center once I'm gonna work 123 in that centre one, and then continue to the end of the row, which is your regular single crushes. Okay, thank no one wanted it. So another little trick were on the last stitch of the second round. And what you'll notice is so here's my back piece. I'm not gonna have you doing edging at all of the back piece. I really like the delicate nature of the scallops Stitch how it is right there. But you'll notice that you've created sort of a different height from these two rows. So instead of doing the last stitch or after, rather you do a last ditch, I recommend just doing a slip stitch from the road that you're already on over. Just sort of right across that shoulder slip stitch just to sort of join it. So it doesn't seem like there's a big ladder of height difference. Probably wouldn't notice it even if you didn't do it. But that's just a little tip that I like to do. It just adds a nice, smooth finish to it. Okay, then you're fasten it off and you would weave in ends. And he would repeat the entire process for the opposite side again, leaving the stitches of the back neck on work so that you have that nice scallop back. And that is actually all there is to it to the entire sweater. But now we just have to talk about pulling it all together. All right, we'll do that next.