Soldering the Bezel
Now sometimes these get a little bit walk, you see how it's not a very flat surface and it's not in your piece is not going to sit very flat, and so we don't want anything to shift your move when we're doing this, so I'm just going to have this sit flat here, some of flux, my base flex, my basil. Now remember, the joint was just like the ring was done in hard. All right, so this joined together into one solid piece was done in hearts on using medium to slaughter this on. Now, aiken direct my heat straight from the top lungs. I'm purposeful about it direct aiken, sauder it's not gonna affect anything else, so placing that where I wanted to be, I'm going to use medium. I already have several pieces of medium cut. They're a little on the large side, I will admit, but we'll make it work means we're using less pieces melt the flux always good to have your another tool in your hand, just in case anything shifts on you so you can quickly adjust it. So it is not quietus centers I'd like it to ...
be. Now we can add our sauder I'm gonna place this order on the inside of the joint, so this is similar to, like our bail cut referred to as a tea joint well, you're putting it right up against the edge of your joy and place it kind of north, south, east west on my piece here you could do northeast southeast and so on, so doing diagonal placement of the sauder but if you have the kind of piece is you don't need to do that these are big pieces I will more than likely I am actually guaranteeing to myself that there will be excess sauder but at least four pieces is good, so I'm just gonna hit directly from the top. There was some kind of on the outside of the basil in the vessels really thin you don't want to put your act it out, you could easily melted, so I'm kind of going on the inside that I'm him ian, I'm going on the outside than hitting the inside really quick outside and because this is kind of like a wall that heat is bouncing up, you don't need to put that much direct heat on the vessel itself it's more about getting the base hot than the rest of it and you'll see it kind of create a nice silver lining we kind of see that happened right there you'll see it kind of pull all the way through when it flows see a little bit of a gap on one spot I'm gonna add another piece I could always do that fill that gap circle in the center circle and you know you did a good job when you could see the saw her on the other side and you see it all the way around see that shyness right there I want to leave it there too long because I'll melt my piece there we are so now we could why not what's qadri make it work disorder a ring on now how you to do that is through some flux on here just to protect its a little dirty but sometimes you can get away with being slightly dirty in this order still working so I'm gonna use my third arm again and I'm going to make sure that I'm not putting the joint side down some people might be like oh why not that makes great they're all in the same spot it might actually re flow the other joint but and then your ring is popping open and then it's not attached to some things you want to on the opposite side so I'm gonna place this right here so I want this to be centered so actually let's thiss way tell me where peace this way now if you wanted to be a really good connection on your ring you can actually file a flat spot on your ring where's my lettering so by doing that we show you that really quick and that will make it so there's more surface area so I could take my ring take a flat file and I could actually purposely flattened or square out an area where that top piece is going to be attached you can see it starting to get little flat right there that will make for a better connections you could do that prep before you do this I want to make sure that it is centered this way as well as the other way if you're having trouble seeing sometimes it's good to use your lazy susan hair you can look at it from all angles so yeah, any time we're using a tool on for a reason I got a little too hot just quite yet really quick I'll do that sometimes with my tweezers so now that's fairly centered in this direction here in the other so what's melt that flux to that a little bit more toward bring itself similar to what we just did before we're gonna do a t joint we are going to use medium again the tricky great thing about medium actually is that it actually melted a different temperature every single time he did so you can actually do multiple sauntering joints right next to each other in medium knowing that the other one the previous one will not melted the same temperature so we'll take a little bit more heat so you could melt the new sauntering joint before unm elting the other one so I'm just mounting the flux focusing on the base just melting the flux primarily right now, so I can place my sauder all property's apply any time you're saw during the medal needs to be clean, there needs to be no gaps and so on menus medium again, the place it right up against my joint there and place it on the side if you want to kind of in that little crack, but if you heat properly, should we'll pull it all way through? So now I'm just going to kind of heat the base, heat the top, the ring, a little bit of an angle, heat the base, remember it's all about even he so in this project, we're kind of doing a little bit more advanced saw during kind of see it flow and move my torch the other side so I could see it pull through based on that angle was right here on this side's replaced it, and then I'll melt it again. Just you can see I could see it pull through that's a little kind of weird little wavy movement that you saw there that's, sauder flowing and now it's attached. Drop us in a pickle for a hot minute, and then we will, um, talk about finishing a little, and then we can set the stone so