Creating the Casing & Inserting Elastic


The Vintage Pocket Skirt


Lesson Info

Creating the Casing & Inserting Elastic

We're going to create the back waistband casing first, this is the area of your skirt that doesn't have the interfacing on it, and this is where the elastic is going to end up going, so we need to make a tunnel for that elastic to fit into. I'm going to start out on the side seam of my skirt, folding my waistband along the crease that we made on the top here, and I want to put a bunch of pins in from one side seam all the way around the back to the other side seem it's a lot easier to lay this out flat on the table and put your pins in our pins aren't going to stay here, however we're going to switch them around to the front of the fabric because in a minute we're going to learn a new technique called stitching the ditch. This is how we're going to make the casing to fit are elastic, so smooth this all out and put your pins in from one side to the other, not on the part of the front waistband that's interfaced. But just from the side scene to the side seem on the back waistband, we pre...

ssed that seem allowance that we're covering up, so it points up and if for some reason you've pressed out a little bit of this fold on your waistband when you fold it over this area here should measure between one and a quarter inches and one and three eighths of an inch, so you can use your seem gauge to check that to make sure it's pretty important that it doesn't get any shorter than that. Otherwise, when we do our stitching in the next step, we're not going to catch it and we won't have a casing. So now that I've got my pins all in on the inside, I'm going to switch them to the outside. If I pinch where the pin is, I'm going to slide it out and I want a pin through the waistband and out just under the scene where the waistband is soon to this skirt. This is where we're going to be stitching this is the ditch of stitching the ditch where the seam meat it's so that's exactly where I want to put my pin because that's going to control the fabric in that area, so keep it nice and smooth. Don't move it around, just switch the pin from the inside to the outside of the fabric. Now that we've got it pinned securely, we're ready to stitch down this casing. So does so this casing down, we're going to do a technique called stitching in the ditch. This is where I put a line of stitching just along this edge of the waistband where it meets the skirt, the way I'm going to line it up on my sewing machine is I'm going to use part of my presser for it to help me keep it lined up, so I'm going to slide this underneath here I'm starting on one side seam, and I'm gonna be sewing along the back edge of my skirt. Now, my sewing machine has a hole in the center of the foot where the thread goes through and off to the back and that's exactly where the needle goes down into the fabric. So if I keep the folded edge of the waistband just to the right of that, my goal here is I want to sew on the skirt fabric, and I want to try really hard not to catch the waistband fabric it's. Okay, if you so a little bit more on this skirt side and it's, certainly. Okay, if you catch the way, spend a little bit. The stitches will be the least visible when they're on just the skirt part. So I'm going to start with the back stitch and I'm going to stitch very carefully along the whole back of the waistband and when I get to the other side here the other side saying I'm going to do another back stitch you can see the fabric feeding along just the left edge my pressure there and I'm getting close to my other side scene so I'm going to come right up to the scene there and do a back stitch and I'll sniff my threads now I've created a little tunnel for my elastic to go through in your instructions there is a chart that tells you how large a piece of elastic you're going to need for whatever size you've chosen since I'm a medium I'm going to need to cut my elastic fifteen inches so I'm going to grab my elastic and my sisters and my ruler I'll measure fifteen inches and trim it at this point oh you can still cut your elastic a little bit bigger if you like because we'll try the skirt on and adjust it if necessary so if you're worried that it might not fit you and your finish just cut an extra inch or two we'll use our budge in I'm going to clamp it on to the edge of my elastic just like this and slide my ring down so just remember this elastic is a little shorter than your casing so when she slighted in you're going to want to take a minute to pin the other edge to your skirt so it doesn't get sucked inside, so I'm gonna take my pin just pin that edge just like this. Now I can use my bodkin, I can kind of slide the fabric so it piles up on my vodka in and I'll hold on to the tip of it and slide my elastic through the casing, and I'll keep doing that until my bodkin comes out the other side seam, and this is what's going to shrink the skirt back to fit and gather it up on the elastic pull that out the other side, so they're about a nice piece of elastic sticking out both edges of my skirt. And the next step is to pin this elastic in place and stitch the front of the waist band. I'm going to remove my bodkin, and I'm gonna pull gently on this elastic, so that it's about a half an inch into the front waistband sticking out over the side seem here's my side seem right here, and I want my elastic, the end of the elastic to be about here. So I'm going to pull it just a little bit more, just like that, and then I'm gonna put a couple pins in through all the layers so that that elastic doesn't move. Same thing on the other side. Here. To make it easier for yourself, you can kind of skew tch the bulk of the fabric to the middle of the back of the skirt. So that it's, not quite as bunching on the side, seems now. I can take this side, undo my first pin there, and I'm gonna do the same exact thing. I'm gonna pull the elastic so it's about a half an inch, sticking out from that side scene there and put some pins in. Now that my elastic is secured, I can work on pending and sowing the front waistband.

Class Description

In The Vintage Pocket Skirt, Shaerie Mead gives you step-by-step instructions for making a simple, yet stylish skirt.

Shaerie, of Sew L.A., has been teaching people how to sew since 2005. In this class, she’ll show you how to make one of her most popular garments. You’ll learn about:

  • Reading and preparing the paper pattern
  • Sewing pockets and the skirt body
  • Interfacing, sewing, and attaching the waistband
  • Finishing and hemming the skirt
Even if you have never sewn before, you’ll be able to follow along. Shaerie will explain sewing basics and she’ll help you make sense of the paper patterns that are part and parcel of garment-making.

Impress people with a handmade skirt that looks complicated but is actually pretty easy to construct with tips from The Vintage Pocket Skirt with Shaerie Mead.