Lesson Info
106. Black-Only Shadows
Lessons
Introduction To Adobe Photoshop
04:05 2Bridge vs. Lightroom
06:39 3Tour of Photoshop Interface
18:21 4Overview of Bridge Workspace
07:42 5Overview of Lightroom Workspace
11:21 6Lightroom Preferences - Saving Documents
08:19 7How To Use Camera Raw in Adobe Photoshop 2020
05:10 8Overview of Basic Adjustment Sliders
13:09Developing Raw Images
30:33 10Editing with the Effects and HLS Tabs
09:12 11How to Save Images
03:37 12Using the Transform Tool
04:48 13Making Selections in Adobe Photoshop 2020
06:03 14Selection Tools
05:55 15Combining Selection Tools
07:37 16Using Automated Selection Tools
17:34 17Quick Mask Mode
05:07 18Select Menu Essentials
21:28 19Using Layers in Adobe Photoshop 2020
13:00 20Align Active Layers
07:29 21Creating a New Layer
06:15 22Creating a Clipping Mask
03:02 23Using Effects on Layers
11:24 24Using Adjustment Layers
16:44 25Using the Shape Tool
04:39 26Create a Layer Mask Using the Selection Tool
04:39 27Masking Multiple Images Together
15:15 28Using Layer Masks to Remove People
10:50 29Using Layer Masks to Replace Sky
10:04 30Adding Texture to Images
09:11 31Layering to Create Realistic Depth
05:35 32Adjustment Layers in Adobe Photoshop 2020
05:29 33Optimizing Grayscale with Levels
10:59 34Adjusting Levels with a Histogram
03:37 35Understanding Curves
06:18 36Editing an Image Using Curves
18:41 37Editing with Shadows/Highlights Adjustment
07:19 38Dodge and Burn Using Quick Mask Mode
07:14 39Editing with Blending Modes
08:04 40Color Theory
05:59 41Curves for Color
16:52 42Hue and Saturation Adjustments
08:59 43Isolating Colors Using Hue/Saturation Adjustment
13:33 44Match Colors Using Numbers
16:59 45Adjusting Skin Tones
05:25 46Retouching Essentials In Adobe Camera Raw
10:52 47Retouching with the Spot Healing Brush
07:53 48Retouching with the Clone Stamp
06:51 49Retouching with the Healing Brush
04:34 50Retouching Using Multiple Retouching Tools
13:07 51Extending an Edge with Content Aware
03:42 52Clone Between Documents
13:19 53Crop Tool
10:07 54Frame Tool
02:59 55Eye Dropper and Color Sampler Tools
08:14 56Paint Brush Tools
13:33 57History Brush Tool
06:27 58Eraser and Gradient Tools
03:06 59Brush Flow and Opacity Settings
04:17 60Blur and Shape Tools
11:06 61Dissolve Mode
09:24 62Multiply Mode
15:29 63Screen Mode
14:08 64Hard Light Mode
14:54 65Hue, Saturation, and Color Modes
11:31 66Smart Filters
11:32 67High Pass Filter
13:40 68Blur Filter
05:59 69Filter Gallery
07:42 70Adaptive Wide Angle Filter
04:43 71Combing Filters and Features
04:45 72Select and Mask
20:04 73Manually Select and Mask
08:08 74Creating a Clean Background
21:19 75Changing the Background
13:34 76Smart Object Overview
08:37 77Nested Smart Objects
09:55 78Scale and Warp Smart Objects
09:08 79Replace Contents
06:55 80Raw Smart Objects
10:20 81Multiple Instances of a Smart Object
12:59 82Creating a Mockup Using Smart Objects
05:42 83Panoramas
13:15 84HDR
11:20 85Focus Stacking
04:02 86Time-lapse
11:18 87Light Painting Composite
08:05 88Remove Moire Patterns
06:11 89Remove Similar Objects At Once
09:52 90Remove Objects Across an Entire Image
05:46 91Replace a Repeating Pattern
06:50 92Clone from Multiple Areas Using the Clone Source Panel
10:27 93Remove an Object with a Complex Background
07:49 94Frequency Separation to Remove Staining and Blemishes
12:27 95Warping
11:03 96Liquify
14:02 97Puppet Warp
12:52 98Displacement Map
10:36 99Polar Coordinates
07:19 100Organize Your Layers
11:02 101Layer Styles: Bevel and Emboss
02:59 102Layer Style: Knockout Deep
12:34 103Blending Options: Blend if
13:18 104Blending Options: Colorize Black and White Image
06:27 105Layer Comps
08:30 106Black-Only Shadows
06:07 107Create a Content Aware Fill Action
08:46 108Create a Desaturate Edges Action
07:42 109Create an Antique Color Action
13:52 110Create a Contour Map Action
10:20 111Faux Sunset Action
07:20 112Photo Credit Action
05:54 113Create Sharable Actions
07:31 114Common Troubleshooting Issues Part 1
10:23 115Common Troubleshooting Issues Part 2
07:57 116Image Compatibility with Lightroom
03:29 117Scratch Disk Is Full
06:02 118Preview Thumbnail
02:10Lesson Info
Black-Only Shadows
Well, let's get crazy. Sometimes I need to prepare things to be printed on a printing press. If you're ever gonna print on a printing press, your image needs to end up in C M Y que mode seem like a stands for science. Magenta, yellow and black. Those are the colors of ink used on a printing press. And if you don't convert your image, someone that you give your file to is going to ultimately have to convert it to see him. Why K mode before it gets printed on a printing press? Because those are what the colors of in car you're going to use. Well, the features and Photoshopped don't work as well in seem like a mode in doing things like color correction. In overall adjustments are dramatically better, an RGB mode, and there's a lot of technical reasons for that. It's known as a gray balanced workspace where I seem like a is not, um, but when it comes to shadows in backgrounds like this, oftentimes it's best to print those Onley using black ink. Well, if I work and see him like a mode, that...
's easy. But what if I like working in RGB mode, and I just want somehow elements to print with only black ink. Somehow I want to control that will. Usually it have to go to see him. Why came out to control it? So let's cheat and figure out how to make this background in the shadow print with black ink. Even though we're in RGB mode just to show you what I'm talking about, I'm gonna choose the eyedropper tool in my tools panel. Click and hold on it. And there's something called the color sampler tool that two allows me to click within my picture and add a little cross there. And I had two of them, and that's gonna cause over here the info panel to have some extra read ups, and it tells me what that's made out of right now. It's made out of red, green and blue, red, green and blue. If I were to switch this, I can switch it to see him like a and it'll tell me how it would be reproduced. And you see, it's using every single color of ink I wanted to only print with black hair and kept look at this background. It wouldn't use 1% black. I want those to print with black ink only. Here's how I'm going to do it. I'm gonna take those bottom two layers those with layers that contain the shadow and the background. And I'm going to turn them into a smart object. So layer smart objects convert to smart object that makes it look as if that layers those layers have been merged together. But they just got turned into a smart object. I need to access the contents of that smart object. So I double click on the thumbnail for that layer. And if I do, they appears a separate document. Well, that's separate. Document. I'm gonna convert to see him. Why came out? And I'm not gonna merge the layers when I dio. Okay, whatever. Then I'm gonna use an advanced feature with layers. I'm going to take the top most layer. I'll go to the letters FX. I'll choose blending options, same screen where we got to knock out shallow. And we got to those blending sliders in in there. I find check boxes right here that says, What inks can we use? I'm going to say you can't use that. You can't use that you can't use that. Therefore, all you could uses this, and I'm going to do the same thing for the layer below. Letters FX Blending options in turn off Scion Magenta yellows We only use black, and the only thing is we were using a lot of those other inks previously. So the end results here are much lighter than they're supposed to be, so I'll have to darken this up. Well, these air solid color layers. That's what it looks like me of these little color swatch on the left. And if I just double click on that color swatch on the left, I can choose exactly how dark this is, and I'm just going to try to get it close to the same brightness as it was before. I'll do the same thing to the layer above double clicking on the left side, just making a little darker click. OK, so now if I look in my info panel, you see that we're working on the smart object. It thinks that the shadow area will end up printing with only black ink and same with the background area. None of the other colors in the reason why you do that seem like a mode for large areas that should look like they're black is because if magenta ink prints too heavy, this would look pink. You have sai in in prints too heavy. This is gonna look bluish yellowing prints too heavy. It's gonna look yellowish, but with only black ink, none of that can happen. So then I'll close this. It was a smart object will ask me since I've made changes, if I want to save it and I'll say yes, it saved it back into this file. And so now if I ever convert this picture to see him when I came out right now, before converting it to seem like a mode, it thinks both of those areas going to use all those different colors of ink. But after converting to see and why came out? As long as I tell it not to merge, the layers don't pasteurize. How many times can you warn me about something? Just do it. Look at those areas they're printing with only black ink. So there's a lot of things we could do with layers. I mean, we've really only scratched the surface. I've been using Futter shop for so long. There's so much you could do that I'm trying to give you a flavor for it so that you can get more excited about some of these features. So maybe you'll start experimenting with some of those check boxes that I didn't use to try to figure out what they dio. And the more you can figure out the more features and photo shop and truly understand them, the more powerful you're going to become when you're using that tool. So I tried to feed you some that I think are quite useful, but this has been advanced layers as part of a photo shop. The Complete Guide.
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Bonus Materials with Purchase
Ratings and Reviews
Noel Ice
I am an avid reader of photoshop books, and an avid watcher of photoshop tutorials. I have attended (internet) several hundred of presentations. In the course of this endeavor, I have found my own favorite photoshop websites and instructors. Creative Live is probably the bargain out there as well as among the top three internet course sites. I have to say with great enthusiasm that the best Photoshop instructor is Ben Willmore. There are many great ones, but truly, he is the best I have come across, and, as indicated above, I have watched literally 100s of tutorials on Photoshop. I have seen all of Ben's courses, I think, and among them, this one is the best by far, and that is saying a lot, because that makes this course the best course on Photoshop to be found anywhere. I am going back and watching it twice. Not only is it comprehensive, but Ben is so familiar with his subject that he is able to explain it like no other. This is crème de la crème of Photoshop classes. I have been wanting to write this review for some time because I have been so thoroughly impressed with everything about this class!
ford smith
Highly recommended if you want to take your Photoshop skills to the next level. Ben Willmore is clear, concise, and professional. He also has a good speaking voice that is not distracting but also keeps you engaged. Lastly, I would recommend that as you become more advanced, increasing the speed of the video (one of the options given on the menu)...especially if you've gone through the course once before and maybe want to watch it again. The double speed is very efficient as you become more advanced in Photoshop. Thanks for the help Ben!
a Creativelive Student
Wow. I cannot communicate the value of this course!! The true value in this course is how the instructor identifies workflows you'll need before you'll ever realize it, repeats important information without it becoming annoying, and explains the "why" behind the techniques so well that even if you forget the exact method, you can figure it out via the principles learned. Excellent value, excellent material, excellent instructor!!!