Beginning Soldering for Jewelry Making

Lesson 4 of 6

Soldering

 

Beginning Soldering for Jewelry Making

Lesson 4 of 6

Soldering

 

Lesson Info

Soldering

Oh my pieces air cut out all my pieces are filed along nice clean edge now I'm going to start saw during my parts together all right? So I'm going to start with my small silver piece now house ordering works is or what slaughtering is more basically is that you're attaching one piece of metal together by using sauder sort of it's not quite like welding it's a little bit more kind of there's a little bit of interweaving of the metal meaning on a microscopic level the metal actually opens up in the water kind of tooths into the metal so it is not just on the surface it may seem that way when you physically see it, but it actually kind of grips into the metal now since we're doing multiple sauder joints, we need to be aware of what type of sauder were using so sauder comes in different forms using sterling silver sauder um there's hard sauder, medium sauder and easy sauder now hard melts at the highest temperature medium is the second highest temperature and then easy is the next. Now we ...

have these three different temperatures so that you can allows you to have multiple sauder joints in the same area so that if you're working on one part of the peace it you khun saw her on it and it's attached it's fun if you add another piece in the previous joint won't fall apart because it had it was melted at a higher temperature, so make sense to everybody, so we're going to start by since we're doing a layering here, we're going to start by attaching this silver priest to the copper, then I will attach it to my bigger piece. All right? So I'm gonna be starting with hard sought because it's the highest melting temperature dh sauder who we have here I'm using wire sauder sauder also comes in sheet form um there's a little indicator bending indication that you see is a standard on top of sauder. So when you see three ben's, that means it's hard sauder when it's to ben's it's medium and then there's one ben, which I don't have sitting here now, it's easy and the reason for that is is that if you don't have the indication, it looks exactly the same. So that's why I was cut from this and opposed to the other answer, we always know what it is, so I'm going to start by cutting up some sought or no, I have a slaughtering dish here that happens to have a little debate in it for my own quick reference, I actually just put an age on one side and em on the other, so you know what's what? Because once again, once it's been cut there's no way of indicating it so I'm just using wire cutters really simple wire cutters one that have a nice little deep defeat like this or good because it can kind of catch your sauder so I'm gonna slip it in the jaws here kind taking a peek in there they don't want to make too big of pieces and I'm clipping it but notice that my fingers here that I can just drop it into my jar if you don't put your finger there they're going to go flying everywhere and you're gonna spend like fifteen minutes just trying to cut sauder so I always cut more than what you think you need now the wire sauder is sort of like concentrated orange juice meaning that this little chip here you can see these kind of two different sizes here these little chips will actually puddle out so they will just expand into a bigger puddle aa lot more than you may think so that's why the size of it is important so now we're doing sweat sauntering initially so it really um you actually need quite a bit it takes one sauntering. Yeah so when you do a tea joint type of joint that's when it's like this sweats ordering is when it's a piece of metal is directly on top of another piece of metal but joint is when they're right up against each other like that you're creating a flush surface so we're doing a sweat joint, so how small are the sauder pieces that you have that you were cutting off? So these pieces right here, it's one of those things you have to eyeball there's no particular measurement in mind, they vary in size to being probably like two millimeters in length to being three millimeters or one millimeter or half a villain eater and length and it's one of those things that you're going tohave toe train yourself visually like your eyes to actually see the difference, and once you saw, you'll see how little you need or how much we need in general because you'll see how a tiny piece turns into a fairly large puddle. Once again, the whole kind of concentrated orange juice you only a little bit we're going to get a lot from it so sauder, when you're melting your side and you have to clean create a clean surface, sauder will not flow if the medal is dirty what makes the metal dirty? Um your finger oils sharpie makes the metal dirty um, any other externals sharp like paint pin if you use it pencil um uh things like that so you can take a piece of sandpaper, just rub it over the area where you're gonna be saw during and that cleans the metal also you can drop it in the pickle and that clean is the metal and long as you're not touching where the sawyer is going to flow then you're not dirtying up that area so actually the uses fun tool right here I place my piece there then I'm going to start here with this propped up here says another type of fire brick just a little thicker going to send this piece so I'm gonna start by melting the sauder onto my silver now silver as I mentioned before has a higher has a lower melting point then copper and brass for instance so when you're seeing the red hot in silver you're actually melting it were with the copper that means it's a kneeled so that's where it's a little bit more tricky when you're heating it up because you really got to make sure that it doesn't get dirty or doesn't get too hot so other tools that you may need when you're over here so you have your clip travel dish for your sawyer you have your sauder saw during picks basically just a piece of wire that is in a little handle helps you could have pushed the sauder around and moved your battle around when you're working tweezers smell trees or to help pick things up now tio now the oxidation can happen when you are saw during as you may have remembered and so that actually makes the metal dirty so sawyer will flow where there's no gaps where the metal isn't dirty ah, gravity comes into play and also heat, so it'll follow the heat. So I'm going to keep the metal clean by using this paste flux to coat the metal and keep it clean. This prevents the oxidation that black thing that you see happened during the kneeling from happening to the middle states clean now wherever this water is going to flow, this is where you place the flux so I'm placing it here on the copper piece and placing it on my silver piece just painted on the regular paintbrush so I already have my sauder available to me right here is a rough prince that's why you always pre cut so it's ready for you, senator, torture all you have to like stop, turn it off, grab anything way are turning our torch on now working with a smaller piece smells you don't need to be a big flame that's too big of a flame so kind of a medium sized claim we're adding our oxygen now flux goes through a few steps kind of looks like a paste right now it's gonna bubble up as I heat it then it's going tio kind like a little chocolate, then it's going to go clear like glass and become slick and tacky, we see that I went through those stages I'll show you again when we go over the copper piece so with clear and tacky like that where it's not bubbling up and shifting around this is where you can add your sauder if you did it before that your soldiers gonna roll away and come out of place where you don't want it to be so now I'm in a place sauder all over the surface of my medal you can use tweezers to pick up your sauder or you could take a saw during pick pullo flux on it and pick it up that way they see now that it's attached to the slaughtering pick just on the tip in place it they're evenly dispersing the sauder it's going to bubble up a little bit when you place it on their cause the metal still hot to the flux that's all the sarin pick us reacting now because we're transferring this onto a piece that has texture on it if you have too much slaughter that's daughter could eventually melt and go into the crevices of your texture what you don't I want so what you would normally do first let's order that wasn't the case you would cover this whole piece with sauder or you had melted so that the whole piece of it is covered with sauder um because we don't want that to come into our texture I'm just placing my sauder in the center and I'm only putting a few pieces, so now they're place I'm just going toe pretend like I'm a kneeling evenly heat and melt this sauder now so does it melt is gonna puddle up and look really shiny and then spread out ray see that happening just like that? And now we have these puddles can you see the color difference there so now that's a little I could use a hair more. I really kind of wanted to be in the center, not on my edges and someone put a little bit in that gap there so it's still clean? So if the sauder are is the flux and sorry had melted off, which you can if you overheat it and the metal is dirty, then you can't melt sauder on any more, you'd have to stop pickle, get the metal clean again and then continue about your process, but since the flux hadn't burned off cause I haven't overheated it, then it will you can keep going and stop like that, not more. All right, so now we're going to bring it over here. No, I don't want this to shift on me, so I'm gonna melt the flux on my copper first now I'm using thiss tripod with the mesh, which will allow me to heat the piece from underneath when I am ready to place a piece on there as I said before sauder follows the heat and gravity so when I drop my piece on there just on tops of sauder side down face so it's touching the copper make sure it's sitting where I wanted to be he turned this around so it's facing me and you can use the saw during pick tweezers just two shifted around now the flux sometimes can get hard to prevent you from moving things when it's cool downs you could just hit it with a little heat to shift things around get that back in the center where it needs to be doesn't want to cooperate at the moment but let's just move on so you want in the center basically this edge against that other edge basically where you had a reshaped it before so I was heating from the top before now I'm gonna heat from underneath and I'm also gonna make my towards a little hotter so I'm going to add when it's already on you add gas since knows it goes orange and then you add oxygen now it's hotter this here this mesh here is considered to be a heat think and metal sweeping terms where meaning that this meshes going steal heat from your piece while you're tryingto warm it up getting in the water up to the proper temperature to melt so I might towards to be hotter so that um not only will it heat the mesh because it's going to take the heat anyway but it's going to get the heat to the piece itself so I'm just acting as if I'm a kneeling notice I'm fairly tour close to the piece itself you'll know that the sauder flowed had melted again basically when you see the piece kind of sink and you see silver along the edge or we see that happening right now especially on my side facing me you see that happens fairly quickly now I know I'm done okay to actually just flip it on your breath on heated from either side is that and so the other said, since you're wanting it to be in a particular spot when you are keeping it, you wanted the spot the piece that you want to be where it is facing use you can arrange it so would it work the other way? It can but then you're not seeing what you're doing and so um things can happen so with that cool little bit sometimes the flux can melt onto your brick onto your mesh and as it cools as I mentioned it sticks becomes hard so that's the case you control your torch back on just hit it with a little heat and then push your piece over and it will kind of unfair use itself otherwise it happens on your break could take a chunk of brick with it and it's not the end of the world that happens it'll come off in the pickle but you want to avoid it so that sat there for a second member we don't want to quench right away or make the metal warp nice little quite sis means like a white little noise means that you didn't do it too soon that's a big noise than I need a weight a little bit longer so now this is pretty dirty it's not sometimes the flux will show this kind of um it will create these various colors and you're going to really see if the saudis float or not so this is why we just kind of take it over to the pickle and drop it in there now while that's going on in a prep for my next step nominate do this from the top this time you can heat from underneath well maybe we'll hear from underneath again why not so here's my bigger piece I'm going tio sand clean it pleases on top of here ad flux again as a prep now silver actually does have copper in it so something referred to his fire scale can happen which is when the copper oxide just like the copper plating kind of rise to the surface and create a film the thing about this is it's not really attractive this is great colorization that can happen and there's no way of really controlling where or how much or how thick it is so on and this happens every time he did so to protect the silver and I didn't do this the first time, but I'm mentioning it now you khun any time you're kneeling or sauntering you, khun flux the entire piece and that's a protective wall that helps prevent that fire scale from happening. So once again the pickle is cleaning my medal for me as well as gain that oxidation off, so take it out of the pickle here, drop it into my water do any at any other cleaning I may need and we're gonna place this piece on top now we're pretty much doing the same exact process. Is there any questions? Yes are there different types of flux? There is different types of flux, so I'm using a paste flux there is other liquid flux is and they some of them are labeled to be for particular types of medals, but it really depends on what uh, what you're doing and it's a matter of preference once again, just like, you know, lubrication for your, um saw frame when you're saying so now we're basically going to do the same exact steps as we did before, so for the sake of time, I'm not going to walk through this right now, but that's essentially what I'm goingto put flux on this, I'm gonna melt amount of sauder. And as I mentioned before, since I'm doing the entire piece, I'm actually would flood the whole piece with sauder. So this, when I look at it right now, I think that whole thing would be silver in color. Once I've melted enough sauder on it, pick it up, drop it on here, and then melted on.

Class Description

Basic soldering skills open up a world of creative possibilities. Learn how to solder a silver or copper pendant for a necklace in Beginning Soldering for Jewelry Making with Bonnie Heras.

Bonnie has been making metal jewelry for more than a decade. In this class, she’ll teach you essential techniques for joining metal components together through soldering. You’ll learn:

  • Beginning sawing and texturing
  • Butt-joint and sweat-joint soldering
  • Best practices for finishing a soldered pendant

Let Bonnie show you how to add complexity and sophistication to your handmade jewelry with this informative class.

Check the bonus materials below for a complete product list of the tools and supplies you need to finish this project.

Reviews

Kendra Kiser
 

I can't wait to take the c)ass again-