Build Your Own Tote: Custom Exteriors

Lesson 6 of 7

Darted Pocket with Magnetic Snap

 

Build Your Own Tote: Custom Exteriors

Lesson 6 of 7

Darted Pocket with Magnetic Snap

 

Lesson Info

Darted Pocket with Magnetic Snap

Ok, our next pocket we're going to work on is a darted pocket so what that means is our pocket for dimension has two darts in the corner and that just adds a little a little room for your stuff inside and we're gonna have a flap with the tab and a magnetic snap so um the flap is similar to what we just did, but we have some extra different hardware and details that we're going to add to this pocket so you'll have a template in your bonus materials for the pocket okay, so once you cut out your pocket shape we're going to cut out these dark shapes and indicate them on our fabric so I'm cutting these out now because if I had cut them out before I cut out my fabric I might have accidentally caught my fabric with these notches in and I didn't want to do that, so um cut those and then then you'll just take a pencil um and mark in here mark in each of these little triangle shapes so this just takes a little bit of fullness out of the pocket and actually adds dimension when these air sown so t...

hese the's lines are actually your stitch line you can see that I already did that to the lining peace and it just adds it doesn't look like much, but it ends up adding a nice little little shape to your pocket so we're gonna go ahead and pin our darts you're going to line up the legs of the dark and, uh put a pin there on that we're going to so to the point and do the same on this side ok, so now we have the dart sewn on the pocket and we have our lining done but before we so the lining to the outer pocket we want to place our snap so here's their magnetic snap and um there's two sides there's a side with a little dent in the side with a little bump, so you're going to put one in the flap in one on the pocket it doesn't really matter which one is where um just as long as you have to that put together. So we have this placed it's about an inch down from the top edge, not counting the seam allowance and it's centered so we'll full this to find our center and then I'm gonna mark this about an inch and a quarter down and here are the components to the snap we have washers, one for each side and then the audi and any sometimes these air pretty strong um I use bigger snaps for like the closure on the top of the bag, but for a pocket I like to use the smaller ones in there they're about a half inch in diameter so before we attach that to the pocket I am going to add just extra little piece of feasible and you're facing on the back cut this down a tiny bit was about an inch and a half square okay so I could still see my mark here and then they're gonna put my washer right on top and mark the little slits for the prongs and then we can cut those with the seam ripper and we'll put a little no frey free check stuff on here and then we're just going to push those prongs through and put the washer on the back albin those prongs in towards the center sometimes an eraser on a pencil works pretty well all right, so we have uh, one half of our snap installed and weaken so the lining to the pocket so we'll put those right sides together and pin around the edge and then you want to make sure that you line up the darts and the starts are pretty small so you can leave um you know, the access beyond the stitching there, but if you want to, you could turn that as well I'm just going to have them lay in opposite directions of each other so I'm going to have the outer one laying this way in the lining laying that way on that kind of spreads out the bulk and then I'll do the same for this side okay and then we want to leave a little bit of an opening for turning so I'm going to put two little marks at the bottom here so I remember to stop stitching and leave that open so we can turn the pocket right side out and now I'm just going to sew around this at the quarter inch inseam allowance okay so we have the lining so into the outer pocket and we just need to trim off our seem allowances at the corner and then we can turn that right side out through this opening lee left in the bottom dana is the point of this chopstick tit poke out the corner of the pocket actually I'm going tio pop out this corner again and use my pinking shears on these corners and that will help them lies more smoothly okay let's press this and then we're gonna fold in the seam allowances at the bottom ok and then we're just going to do a top stitch across the top edge of the pocket okay so before we get to the flap for this pocket I'm going to go ahead and stitch this too the front panel of the bag so in our example tote we have two pockets on the front but I'm just going to show you one right now so I have this measured from the side at one and a quarter inch down from the top edge of this lower panel and about three and a half inches in from the end so this pocket is going to be lonely for now just gonna have the one on the side and then the other pocket will be done exactly the same so let's see one and a quarter down and three three and a half over and this will very on you know depending on the size and scale of your bag okay so when we stitch this down we want to make sure pleats they're going toe are darts rather are going toe stay dimensional and not get flattened as we're just going to go really close around the actually going to eighth of an inch and then we also need to close this bottom opening between the outer pocket and the lining okay so we'll stitch that on the machine back stitching at the top um of the pocket edges all right so now we have our darted pockets sewn to the front and it's got it little dimension there for for stuff and stuff in there that needs a little press but we'll just keep going and work on the flap so the flap that we're going to make has of course the other side of the magnetic snap and then I also have this little tab that you could just do is a little piece of webbing or you could have an extra little deering hanging on there just for a little more hardware interest so that's definitely an option so I have my flat pieces already cut I have an accent fabric with peaceable fleece on the back and then they have my lining fabric with interfacing on the back so again, I'm going to put a piece of if usable fleece is just extra little uh, stabilizer on the back for where the snap is going to go. Okay, so we need to find the center and since you know so we want that on the lining piece because it's not shown from the outside it's going to be here, so sometimes I have to kind of give that a second thought, like which side gets the snap? So this flab is going to be sown in the scene, and so we know that we need in order for the snap tow line up and though this isn't so, we can already take a look and say, all right, so this is here I know that I need the center of my snap rate there, so we'll make that little mark and then do what we did with our washer and marketa spots for the slits push the prongs through what needs to be cut more a little frayed check, all right, push those through but the washer on and then bend down those prague's okay, so we'll check that looks pretty good all right, so the other thing we need to dio is make the little tab because that's going to get sewn in the edge when we construct the flab so I have some cotton webbing here it's an inch wide and then I have the rings that, um are also wouldn't an inch wide and so that's going to be my little pull tab for lifting the pocket flap so I'm going to cut a piece of webbing um about an inch and a half and then I'm just gonna laced this on here and I'm going to is exactly just together, all right, keep those together while we sandwich in between and then I'm going tio pin the sun here and then this will get sandwiched in between with the right sides together and then when we turn it right side out but the ring will be hanging down actually, I think I'm gonna machine based this to the lining first, just to make sure it stays in place when we're layering everything all right? So by machine based I just stitch this an eighth of an inch um, and that will just hold it in place until we get that seen sown, all right? So we'll just stitch these together and when we saw this, we just need to sew the curve in front part of the flap we don't need to so the top part, because that's going to be sewn in the seam between the upper and the lower panel of the bag. Now you might find when you get to all this hardware stuff, so we have the deering and the snap and everything that you might need your zipper foot to get by, but I feel like I can squeeze by, so I'm just going to see if I can, and if I if I don't have enough room to stitch, then I'll switch to the zipper foot. I just want to make sure absolutely that you're not goingto have your needle hit metal. Ok, then we'll get our pinking shears and from off thes curves, and we'll turn this and press it. All right, then we're gonna top stitch the edge of the flap now, sometimes depending on how strong the magnet is when you go over the throat plate of your machine, sometimes even the bump or just the magnet itself will grab onto that, so just keep that in mind as you're going along here seems to go okay, sometimes you can put a piece of tape on it or something to help it not stick all right, let's, check it out over here, all right, so snaps lined up, and the last thing we need to do is seem this across the top. And you can machine based at first or you can just go ahead and so it which I think since I've got my snap kind of holding it on, I'm going to just put my upper panel of the bag on here and saying which that in between and do that in one scene. All right, now we're going to sew the top panel to the bottom panel at a half inch seam allowance that did not get sewn it all, bob, and ran out bob and ran out right there. I don't know why sewing machines don't tell you they should, like beep or something. All right, scrap that again. All right. Should I say that again, it's? Just so ah, but if I say it again, I mean, it's already started. All right, now we're going to sew the top panel of the bag to the lower panel. Actually. Now have to repent. Nous thanks. All right, we're going to sew the top panel of the bag to the lower panel using a half inch seam allowance. All right, let me just give us a quick press, and then we can admire our pocket. All right. So now we have our darted pocket, complete with a flap with the magnetic snap and the little webbing and deering detail

Class Description

Don’t let your fear of zipper installation or inexperience with pocket construction and hardware closures stop you from ornamenting your tote!


Join Betz White for Build Your Own Tote: Custom Exteriors and learn tricks and techniques for getting professional-looking results. You'll learn how to:

  • Add custom details to make your bag look more polished
  • Experiment with a variety of exterior pockets
  • Work with hardware closures and zippers

Betz will give you step-by-step instructions for making a bellows pocket, a pocket with corner darts, and a pocket flap. She’ll also show you the best way to construct concealed zipper closures and add metal base feet.

If you want to advance your sewing skills and make a more polished bag, join Betz White in Build Your Own Tote:  Custom Exteriors.

Learn how to add a pop of color with two-sided handles or create a leather strap in Betz's tutorials on the CreativeLive blog 

Reviews

Chrys Elrod
 

This was an amazing class! I wish I had Betz in my sewing room with me on every project I sew. Her patterns are wonderful and easy to understand. Thank you Betz!!! I appreciate this so much....the tips and tricks you showed are sure to make my bags even more impressive! I love having the videos to watch.

Christine See
 

Most excellent course. This class explains, in detail how to add multiple different exterior pocket to take your bags up a notch. Also shows different types of closure techniques including zippers, snaps, press lock, etc. Great close up shots to see how everything is put together.

Liz Hanes
 

Thank you, thanks you and thank you! Your instructions on how to do dimensional pockets and piping were so clear and informative! I have had difficulty with both of these things in the past and now I feel that I should just go cut some fabric right now and make a tote!