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Finishing Hair on All Models

Lesson 21 from: Working with Hair and Makeup

Simona Janek, Sue Bryce

Finishing Hair on All Models

Lesson 21 from: Working with Hair and Makeup

Simona Janek, Sue Bryce

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Lesson Info

21. Finishing Hair on All Models

Lesson Info

Finishing Hair on All Models

We're just getting the girls jewish before so stats um shooting them so this was tongue with the medium tall and I'm just going to grow my petal brush and just bring the coast together I find that a little bit too separated so I'm just going to pull them out and we know that there's some extensions in he that hold really well so I'm not afraid to really put a brush through it and you are a wears a head back he so just do that so I feel like we need a little bit more hair through there and a little bit through there a swell so I'm gonna bring the hair from the back and bring it forward um when you've got extensions airwaves in sometimes a little bit hard to go through and tease underneath so you just have to um tease the top if you can and then just sort of with your fingers at the roots because you know you really can't get in any other way way so you can see that synthetic k some quite shiny as well doesn't usually need a lot of product um because it doesn't seem to dry out and you ca...

n um teaser as well if you need to like when it's smooth and it tends to clump what I'll find when I'm working with you here you'll sort of get it to a point you think you are like that and then it'll sort of re clump into the original way that you've curled it. I'm so you just need to keep separating it and keep sort of working along the side with the photographer and keep it happening. So I think that's all I would do at this point because we don't have a fringe to really maneuver around the forehead, but just try and bring the hair around the face and then, you know, civil sort of shifted backwards and forwards as she needs when she's shooting. Thank you to our and I'm gonna have hannah. I just love how you say the word fringe. Thank everybody out there. Bangs of you missed that earlier. Uh, it's. So cute trying remember banks, but friends just comes out. Let us know in whatever part of the world that you're in. How do you say banks? There are other ways to with a loud critical friend. Yeah, I think it's morning, this terminal four and tom, you well, so we speak same language. Yeah. Okay, so we've got hannah. He who had? Her here tongue with that referee, round technique and way, ended up using two different size tongues, but mostly it's, the smaller one, and then just random here. And there is the bigger tongue. As sarah was doing it, she found that the smaller tongue just actually gave her a better curl. So that's, you know, you just have to work it as you as you going through the here and just see what's happening. So I'm not gonna run a brush through these. Just yet what I started doing is I just want to see what the hair's gonna how its gonna behave for me usually start off with my fingers with nothing I've got nothing on no product on my hands and I just want to create a little bit of want to separate the curls created a little bit of volumes through he and just see where it's gonna go and normally I would have a mirror in front so I can actually see what I'm doing okay, so I want a little bit of powder just in hee and I'm gonna tease through this area I'm gonna do that now before I start pulling it out sometimes when you pull it out too much, you end up with a little bit too much freeze so before I do that I'm just going to section off here and just a little bit of that coming because she's got a bit of a colicky so that he's gonna keep sort of flattening out separating and I usually don't go too far back I start my back homing about their due one section two, maybe three and then don't usually go any further down sorry, were you able to say that clearly on camera for a reason why you don't go all the way? Um I'm s I wantto create lots of lots of volume, then I usually don't need it in the back but I do go around to the sides. A little bit of swell cell sort of come down to bat. He and then through there as well. But it really depends on client client okay, so straight away. She's got a lot more volumes through here, and I want to keep that text history. He quite organic. So I'm not gonna teach through the through these. Because then I'm going to smooth it out so I'm gonna end up with a lot more straight straightness through from the root to about he and I don't want that I want to keep this sort of natural movement happening so I just section of flicked my sections around get product in there and then just mess arjun with my fingers this side I want to pull out this side a little more through that bottom part here you can see where it's bean tom tighter and where it's lusa but amongst all that here that doesn't really you know you want that because not everyone's got perfect bring words all around their head ends do sometimes get tangled as you do they say you just have to attend to use my fingers as soon as I put a common that separates a little bit too much so I've taken some of the hear these pieces that I would normally throw back because I'm not that texture through the front like this is where I want a little bit of product sometimes I go through five pulled it out too much I'll go through and return some of the pieces um I'll see if I have to do that with him so this is just seal the ends which doesn't really give it hold on is um not too glossy and I'm just pulling through there with my fingers so at this point what I would do is probably start off with this hair and maybe halfway through the shoot I would actually brush it out just get get more but start off with something like this you know you know you know more casual outfit and then sort of brush it out um I wouldn't rush it out straight off just in case I know that this harewood sort of spring back um but just to give me a different look and just so I can manipulate the hair a little bit more give a bit more volume and then maybe you know peanut in if we need to be using any accessories but yeah this this I think this looks really natural and it looks like they're here would look on a perfectly human day where the girl you know happens exactly as you wanted to if you ever use power like you get more volume out of it um I don't tend to can usually get into the roots of this synthetic care and because this ditched on um there's almost no point I intend to use it in the part where they've got their normal here and sometimes if I'm finding it's not holding what dustin through the ends just doesn't work with yeah it's use hairspray more in synthetic care because it's easier to rush out without having to wash the pieces okay thank you and now we've got someone down christa so tiffany only got as far as blow drying so this is curly here stretched out and I feel like it needs a little bit of product in there it's not a smooth as I would like it to be something a little bit of sylvie and threw it she's blow dried all of it but she's sectioned it off freddy for what I'm sorry what's the name of the product again that you're putting in gold seal the ends it some passing around repair arrest this moving kind of serum but it's not oily and it just gets absorbed into the here and in one uses on all hepatitis its pacific looking really really coarse hair might not be as effective um you know like you might need something stronger on really curly here uh but just just you can already see just by smoothing without pulling it through it's it's actually magic has done quite a lot yeah but it's not way down but where does one buy this product just your local supply okay so we're gonna different lead some setting lotion on and I'm gonna start sear off and she's gonna tongue in the background while I demonstrate more taking tommy techniques rushing through and actually we need a small section pass me another clip that purple one so that section is just a little bit too big to get through and she's left me some girls there that's okay because it's up to me so what we're going to do is the hairs although one likes in the front and I don't want to be too curly but I want a little bit more movement through the bottom so I might get you to do the medium tongue on the bottom section and I don't think you need to set it waken just but really kind of pull through it a little bit just to smooth it out even more for me let's just see how that cole looks when I pull it out okay so that looks quite curly but I know that when I pull my finger through that that's just gonna be a really beautiful, soft way. So maybe do the whole head with this and then come back to me. Oh, job back tio, when we around the front and we might do a mixture okay, just yet. So up to about he, I think, just do the medium and give me, um, going that way and going that I give me two different directions. Okay, okay, you go, take this. Thank you. And actually, I'm gonna need two asians. Uh, leave it if you could put her in the middle of split. Ok, thank you. All right, so now I'm going to do a demo on, uh, student kira, come up on his feet. What I want to show you some. You know, I've sort of been randomly talking that way and that way but I just want to do a few different sections um and then pull them out and show you have a cool behaves when you've got um sorry static when you've got um help moves if you directed that way or the opposite way or directing it downwards so I'm gonna section off she's got beautiful sick here that's quite fine she has lots of here um but each individual here is fine so maybe we'll start off with this much yeah, that might help thank you. Okay, so this section here I want to show you when I direct the hair up in a tongue of under and then I pull it out what movement that creates for the wave when you start to rush it out and then with destruction here I'm gonna roll it away from her face because she's got this lots of weight in the france so if I was to stall here for a shoot um I would give her movement so I've got some here going forward but that top section I don't want to be in her face the whole time so we're directed outwards but we'll start here just grab setting lotion and some clips so when I got here like this and I'm going to set it I used quite a lot I went to hear with it quite a bit but you mean here like this you mean really fine on its one length and it feels feels fine feels like it's not gonna have the best hold uh star death quite a bit yes do you want to turn um after the camera I don't know what I'm not getting past me the other one smooth so my piece that I did is a lot smoother and this isthe kind of still keeping the froth so what I did is I put quite a bit of tension on the hair they're clamped a tongue on and then I'm already twisting it and that's moving it and I'm twisting the hair with it following the time so my tongue's going in turning under and I'm twisting the hair around and that's smooth is it for me and then I pull it through and what I do is just very slightly open that spring just I'm not ripping here out of my client's head when that comes out that's a lot smoother yeah so it's you're not starting off with enough tension ok and I think you're not pulling through enough there when I did that I did get a little kink you were asking about kings before but no one's gonna see that on there that doesn't matter only because I can't get in that close to him when you happy it's a lot easier to pull up and you avoid that so let's see how this is sort of standing to drive thru and it's sticking brushed through cos medium sized chance so I'm taking sections what an inch I think into wide and I'm gonna pull the hair up to get lift off the ritz get this as close as possible and then twisted around and I'm staying quite close to her head and pulling through pull through I want the end smooth in this as well so I pulled the end and now it's underneath that spring I just keep twisting it till the end slides in and then I plant down on it so it doesn't keep springing out and then you can twist back there might hand you the tongue in between to put it down now so then I take my face see it's all stiffened like cardboard because of the setting lotion and then I flip it in and I pull it out because that's gonna help me with the volume at the roots so always comes through each section and again twisting through if anyone wants to have a go free because it's it's yeah it's just practice that's all ladies it's not hard and I put a lot of things in my mouth thank you because I'm above the ear I'm staying a little bit away just so I don't have done enough burning my client have done that before my pulling when I'm oh no it's not you're comfortable tension you can yank away fine you have uh hear this much here you learn not to be tender headed but you see I'm the opposite because I have short hair nothing ever gets done to my head so when I get it cut off like uh so you can do this quite fast so this is what I call a sit so when you said that traditionally the beasties rollers for this um and you know sit under one of those great big things but that takes too long so this this is the direction of your girl you're lifting up from the root he just a little bit that lifting up from the root here and the hairs twisting under so they've only forced to let it out that's the girl and I wanna wind up back in my fingers under there and then wandered around two fingers because it happened you dropped the here and it'll stretches out and then just clipping with one of these little butterfly clips way mark and um it can around the front I just make sure I don't grab the very lithe direction that just like that effect then roll after your girls because I've painted in such a way like when I do my own here and I do it it's like hap hazard trying to shove that back there yeah but that's you on yourself I think that you don't have the excess that I've got standing over a client so always in the same way from underneath of the coal so I'm not really keeping that that front too much okay let me just do another section here and then we'll go to the other side and I'll show you doing it forward you can also do this with the dhd which again is the straightening ithe brand what I find twist the with straightening I'm um doesn't slide through is easily when I put this much setting lotion in that's why I choose to use the tongs hot curling I'm okay so get close to the route twist my hair around but I keep the peace of here flat like a ribbon and keep bringing it around so all I'm doing here is guiding it around and feeding it in so you see that's my section and then I pin through here so I'm not grabbing it right there kind of there if you've got really sick here or the hair's not curling that easily just smaller sections last one I'm gonna smooth things you could do what what do you say to people when they ask if the but I am a curling iron will that do damage to the hair um yes they do if you see them every day and um you know I have dry here and if you color your hair as well they will but something what you still uh for one time only it's fine exactly so we're gonna grab this section here a little later okay so this section I'm going to roll forward um and if you ever if your client ever wants that beautiful hollywood kind of sit you know the fifties sixties beautiful glamour here this is how you do it you roll it forward then you've got all the girls coming back forward and you can mold them I'm gonna take my sections a little bit more um vertical round then horizontal so question so I came to and I said okay I have a client and I want the hollywood look how would how would you best describe it would be the best way to say I can't say I want the hollywood look right I call it the detail fontes does their hair like that it's that sort of um beautiful bride doubt pinup girl soft girl yeah so now I'm gonna put my tongue down wait I can't go up pointing it down and I'm doing the same thing but wrapping it this way but I'm rolling forward here so it's the same technique the way the hair goes through the tongue is just a different direction again emitting any questions while I'm doing this for tony or anything related to hear because it's a little bit tedious to watch one by one actually how much time do you hold the hair when you crawl it um well let's count it I sort of what I do is I touched the outside it's sort of needs to hit right through so that's why if your section is too big you have to hold it for too long um you know to get to get the heat to come through on the outside here a swell twenty seconds I suppose aboutthe here right now is because it gets heavy and a bottom right yeah so I don't want the cult of cool in a dropped um dropped way so it doesn't straighten out we want to keep in a cz much curl it's possible so her hair you're using just one if I'm gonna do that sort of brushed out soft wave I usually just use one size so the different ones were just for that type if I'm trying to create a natural curly hair look I will usually use different size tom I just think it looks more natural not so uniform with the sizes but depending on let's say she had shorter layers around her face like the front layer is quite long but if she had you know a layer to there I would use the biggest size tongue because I don't want it to be too curly unless I really wanted that that movement which looks beautiful I love that hair but you can't really blow it with a fan that's it's kind of a sit molded you know you have it there for one shot in and if you want to mess it up and change it up then you do it looks different again almost two more and then we'll do that so few this makes the ends you know quite cold and quite soft um with your blow dried you here this morning yeah so cure blood drive her here this morning if I wanted it to be a bit loosen a bit more fun and not so glam I would probably leave the end out a little bit and then just run my fingers through it will just be more of a funkier lusa cool simona whenever I uh whenever I was creating the make up room in our studio I was considering doing a swivel chair. I didn't know anything about what's necessary in terms of efficiency but that's what I was going for her being on just a folding chair and you being a lot higher. Do you find that a silver chair is not really necessary? Is just a perk or, um if you tied for room it's good if you don't have much space to walk around your client than swiveling them around can be quicker or if you get power points to faraway um but this is fine in your studio is that what you have you have a trouble I've got a stole it swivels um which is a little bit annoying cause iran keeps kind of swiveling in it when I'm doing makeup it doesn't go however low enough for here because I need to be able to stand over my client so I can do this if they're too high I'm you know I can't do my job properly um so for here actually like a really low store or low chair okay so what I might do is pull out this side and then I'll show you running the hair away this is nice and cool now and sometimes you get courting their hair out when I first pulled them out sometimes they get a little bit tangled into each other so I sort of get my direction I see how you get movement coming into the face so if I was doing a much bigger section you get more here so you get more of the movement coming from here but the girls doing just turn your head slightly that way girls doing that whereas when you roll it away we'll say it was quite different so you've got this movement happening in the girl and that's what you get when you just roll it straight under um if I wanted it more movement from the top smaller tongue on the top players and then you can just more hey ed to it more it's all going to move the same way together so it won't be all random you can actually get it to move the same way all together and of course I would put teasing in there as well just to get a lot more left you need to invest in the powder apparently didn't know about it today okay so if I was doing here is here for a shoot I would then take this section probably rolling back and this guy would do off her face otherwise I think we'll just have to much hanging forward just setting lotion are you going there sarah they happening for you the coast there's a lot of here here it's it's coming I'm getting better again I just sprayed my setting lotion through and I really full it through their hair and give it a good rush out because I'm not gonna pin this just gonna tongue it and take it back we're gonna start with the bottom section so it towards the back I want a little bit more curl on the longer pieces so this time I'm going down still but I'm running away and then I rolled back all the way to the head again open it up a little pull through so cure has got a lot of here but it's very fine that kind of fear that when you shooting keeps kind of getting messy but it's heavy at the same time a swell time your favorite client and then there's the other kind of hair where it just keeps tangling on itself no matter what you do it always just tangles and locks and put your fingers in and you know all the girls just keep tangling together so if I can't keep brushing out try and use the end of my tail comb and just sort of pull out that way some not pulling the curls out if I can get a brushing then I'm not worried about pulling out on girls I do but if I'm worried about making it'll flat then I just try and use the end of my tail comb and kind of go through it that way a little bit more roll away from the face these I'm going to do this and then just do that again hear any questions from the internet one question we we have the what to tell our clients when they ask about things are being damaged so question wass about teasing does that damage here at all no you can brush it out right yeah that's fine so when I'm on top that very top player like he usually go up and over because I want a little bit off that lift or you can just use the patter if they really don't want that coming in they're here because you saw in the last demonstration last session that actually did a really good job for here that was quite flat so that's always a uneasy option just to reiterate a question from a darla sharp photo doesn't matter how you section off the hair or what section you begin with do the girls need to be uniform in each section or in rose for this it needs to be pretty uniform and I think it's easier to keep your sections clean because otherwise you'll get into a big mess west eclipse thank you okay so I'm just gonna breakfast into to set up two sections halfway through sarah or nowhere near nowhere near know anything that's okay come and hope you have a fantastic good do you wanna do you wanna spin her around and show yeah sure just let me get this one because it's it's like I'm really smoothing out the hair yet so yeah it's quite a drastic but I'm so excited to see the before and after now so well that calls for me before on the brush through it's just gonna go to the side hopefully have done enough here to actually really show you get much more of this turns slightly that way so you get a lot more here coming in forward so again I've just done a little section but if you've got a ll the head you just get so much more movement coming into the faso for someone who's got quite you know that some people have thick hair or he but three years starts to seem um also a lot of the times when people don't have the thickest here around the front and they're always where they were where they're here parted in one direction sometimes you get kind of a sin a section through you so a lot of the times are flick they're here and actually part of the opposite way because it'll give me more lift their heads train to go that way so it sits really flat so when I flip it all of a sudden you know I'm getting this great volume at the roots and if they've got the lengths to go the other way and the cut goes the other way then instantly I have more here in the face I've got more lift and I've got more here to play with around their face just back home that little yeah that looks right at me with a two least you've got some here so this is where you can really mall the here to come back into the face looks great haven't seen it but I felt reading and then you can just brush out and bring those girls together so if you've got more of that you end up with that beautiful long hollywood glamorous here love that it's um and lots of teasing at the roots because it's it's always got you know a bit of which he and then allowed that girl give it that room to sort of come forward and start sculpting into the cheeks that's beautiful and then if you've got short pieces in the fringe that's when you can start to sculpt of around the faces well it's that's not the easiest here to do and not everybody's here khun will actually do that as well um you need you know quite good here and quite a bit of it um and hear that holds but it's uh yeah it's a fun one to practice something to aim for question if you weren't talking to us how long was it in average I said her here in half an hour okay um and then the pulling out if it was for a shoot with um with sue, I'll pull it out, rush it through, just do some teasing. It probably takes fifteen minutes to finish up the most. Yeah, so see how that's given me forward but then I've actually got it opening up around her eye and it's also giving me some with that uhm soo likes through here and a little bit of openness on face way. Go ahead and just put a little bit of volume in there. I have a question. Do you always go in the opposite direction of what your client already have, like saying she has straight here? Do you mean no worry? No. Don't always. I asked them, I get, um, guided by the client. You know, some people really want curly here, but they can't do it themselves, and others are totally happy with, you know, straight here, and they've gotta cut that really suits it. So, you know, that's what we discussed and, um, you know, well, they say, just do whatever you like. What do you think? So then I said, I think you're here. We'll look amazing with a really stuff brushed out way. Well, you know, um quite a tight girl so I sort of give us some options and discuss it yeah and then it when I do it once it's all finished if they're not all that happy with it I'll change it I'll relax it more orders tongue a few more pieces around the front it's kind of a working progress here as early as you can you do it in a big way for is pretty much like you have to do the time oh, no you know you don't have to that's not gonna end up being all that time yeah that's gonna be kind of a yeah sometimes yeah, with that that does throw tom schedule about teo was my questions. Yeah, it does. Cos for blood right now there is working on our girls would you maybe just stick to the front knowing that the outcome is clearly going to be gorgeous but time constraint. Why that's what I did say when we started joke is that maybe in the back I would just use the tongue to create my sent me liz I know I would still get that or sometimes I take my time blow drying around the front here line because that's what I want, you know, wanted to see it that way and I want this not to be fuzzy, but then I have a really big brush and just really quickly blow dry out the back, okay, um and then goes through instead it okay so way probably would just very lightly haste hairspray that maybe even a little bit of a glass ray probably wouldn't put the paddles through this girl until the end of the shoot if I was finding that was dropping or I really wanted to do something different with it and scrunch it back up more um because she has fine here and also it pattern really locks it up it's great for the roots but for the ends I wouldn't be eager to start off with that hair at all so simone al and I have been asking dina and numerous photography and said is it do you spray the girls with hair spray as you set them to know that twice this setting much looking can use hers but if you don't have setting lotion and you've got klein with dry clean here and you know you're going to do a set or talking what I do is just grab ahold of hairspray spread in the hair but then brush it through and if it's too wet actually grab the hair dryer and sort of driving create sort of a build up of product in the hair and then start tony but some hair sprays tend to be a little flaky if you use too much of them and don't always brush out that well so you just need to find one that you can work with setting motions you avoid all that complication because you saw that actually brushed out easily and the calls were quite crunchy and now I can manipulate them quite well and I can bring them back here and it doesn't feel steven drive sir if you over spray the hair and you start blowing you've got these huge sections of here blowing and it doesn't look so good what's really nice about when we found the hair is that it's sort of like smaller pieces and it's it's soft and we generally use it just to um lifted away from the face just to get a little bit more of an opening around the face rather than a big hoo here I've got fan on my head how much more simple is the process if a client insists on straight here I'm sure it's quite a bit simple but there's probably not volume or is there still a little probably add a little bit just even though it's straight hair and sleek looking here I think it always looks better with a little bit of volume there um and through the crown here so I'll still go ahead and teasing and maybe use the powder but just keep it sleek and keep the end sleep so keeping kind of neat and with straight here generally we don't blow because it doesn't look that good I think you need a little bit of kink in a bit of movement in the head to phantom really good yeah and depending on what banks like this you could blow really nicely but if there's a solid bang that's and really that's kind of the defining point of their hairstyle then you don't send that would have been mine probably maybe if we brought you here around the front way might blow thes sections here but they're not your friends because doesn't look doesn't write any other questions take a look at your questions from our bm had been um do you ever tease each section before during the doing curling no because then I can't get into the root and I've already taken by teasing you actually taking some of these long strands and sort of pushing them down into here and shortening it so now I don't always do it after thank you how are you going I know what I'm doing very much yeah fabulous so the coast he you know they sort of look tight at this point but once we run a bit of well product through and I think I'll use the styling cream to sort of mess this out as well they're just going to be big waves yeah they'll just hold really well that's a good kind of like going different directions you're going different directions especially around the front is just gonna give you a bit more variety like what you know if you go back then when you found that you put away going this way you do need some gonna create a bit of play around with faces well see that and I'm not I'm keeping this part for help um just keep going yes thank you this's pretty much what I do over and over I just adapted to you know the client's face the client's here texture and it's always just a working progress that's um you know I think it's being confident with your hot tools knowing your directions and having in your mind what you want to achieve thie end result um and it's only hey can always definite down and start again if you're learning that's fine you know that's that's perfectly fine that's great and and again for people who uh maybe weren't here yesterday how long is that that you allow for hair and makeup when you're working with general it's an hour um but if you do get a client with this kind of here well there's no not much way around making it super fast but still making it beautiful so you know those shortcuts you khun take like I'm not doing the back fully but it does extend out so you know an hour and a half to two hours sometimes yeah but generally it's within that hour and fifteen minutes you can get a person down definitely especially after practice practice you do get faster

Class Materials

bonus material

Hair and Makeup Keynote Morning Slides Part 1
Hair and Makeup Keynote Morning Slides Part 2
Hair and Makeup Keynote Afternoon Slides

Ratings and Reviews

a Creativelive Student
 

This is a great course, Simona is very good explaining the techniques. The only thing I really wish was the video could zoom in when she is talking about different makeup brushes. It's a bit too broad for me that has little knowledge of the appropriate makeup tools and brands, a list of good makeup brands for concealers and even a good starter/ essential eye shadows kit would have been very nice. The class is great, just need more material on how to put together your own kit to support it. Thanks CL and Simona, as always very nice, I'm glad I bought the course!

a Creativelive Student
 

I love this course and came to it because I saw Sue's Glamour Photography course. I learned so much. The BIGGEST missing piece from this course is a handout that lists Simona's kit contents! There was a hair product that I wanted so bad, but had to stop the video ten times to try to see what it was! So a list of Simona's must haves would have really rounded out this course nicely. I was so happy to see a photo of her key brushes in the slides, so I can fill in my kit with what is essential. I loved the self esteem discussion at the end, because I find Sue Bryce just so compelling and inspiring. Beautiful. Just a few picky things to make the next one even better...I would have liked the camera on the face of the subject more during Simona's demos because it seemed to show Simona talking (which is nice) but then I couldn't see the make up process. The demo with Ms. Lobdell, was great, except the side of her face that Simona was doing her makeup on was the furthest from the camera. BTW, her make up was so pretty.. Thank you so much for this wonderful series! Hope you keep having them!

Student Work

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