Soldering, Sanding, & Polishing the Bracelet
Let's daughter, it closed, so I have stand in that area little bit. So it's kind of prepped to be cleaned. I'm just going to solving those two ends together, so I'm going tio flux that some people I get this question a lot. Is there ever too much plucks his flux like a bad thing when you use hard sought by the way? And if you have too much flux so like, if you're doing a sweat sauder where the metal is sitting on top of another piece of metal um it can if there's too much flux there it can, like kind of like those bugs on top of water, it can kind of slick and move away and, um, not be where you want it to be so that's where flux is too much other ways it's not a crime if you have too much flux just me that's really clean, so start by getting my wire up about flux melted to that clear attacking consistency while still bring the whole bracelet up temperature so I'm circling. The whole thing is, if I wasn't feeling it now I'm the place my sauder on this edge right here and point that out...
a little bit more with my slaughtering takes it'll be placed right here once I, um, that all he even lee once I see it flow I'm gonna direct my heat on this side so help pull it over to the opposite end so goes all the way through underneath so place a piece of sauder it's a fairly large area so a big piece is not a bad idea that's a good size piece there you see that now I'm gonna evenly heat this's facing away for me so I'm gonna kind of use the indicator of the heat kind of pulling through tio tell me that I've thought of this right once again the lazy susan this total over here can be useful because you can kind of turn around and see in multiple directions a little hotter hotter towards the faster the sauder will melt through the past year piece of metal will get a meal and sometimes you don't want it to happen really quickly so having a big flame may not be what you want but longer where what's going on it could be just fine so our slaughter float and could see it pop over on this side and we're good to go I'm gonna quench pickle this and then we are ready to go back over to the manual to shape it round so and basically when I had the bracelet on the mandrell like over here before like that tapping it on edge all the way around multiple times that's how you'd make it round so once the piece is both pieces have been pickled and cleans, you can file away any extra sauder you may have from before. If you haven't already, then you can start sanding. You can use your split mandrell on your flick, shopped if you want, or you can kind of resort to you're standing sticks again to just kind of sand over your edges, sand away your hammer marks. So you kind of see on this one to twenty and three twenty are you kind of go to sandpaper to get rid of file marks, as well as kind of really take away a fair amount of material? You kind of see here now, in comparison to this side there that you're starting to not see those hand remarks anymore, you can actually say on them away, um, also, you can hit the edge here, hold it up on edge is always a good motion to keeping even shaped by doing this rocking motion opposed to doing this back and forth thing that I was saying cause that's in one spot, and that can create a dividend. So if you cut a rule with it like that, when you're filing as well, a standing and you can go back and forth, this will help maintain that nice curve shape, then if and so what we did on all of these pieces is take it to a high polish. So if you're gonna do that, you need to go through all the grij. So that's, your two twenty three twenty show you that really quick. Three, twenty, four hundred and six hundred. Now we're gonna be using the same buffs as we have used in other courses that are available through creative life. Um, as well as the same compounds starting with the tripoli, which is our brown compound and then the rouge to create our polish. So let me grab cem safety glasses and place the buffs in my fleck shaft. Flagstaff is a total, like, if you're really getting into this total lifesaver, you it's not one of most expensive tools you can buy by far, but it is one of those ones that cost a little it's, not forty bucks on average. I mean, there's. Various levels, of course. Um, it's, you know, gonna cost you over one hundred dollars, but it does so much it, khun buff, the concerned it can grind. It can polish, you know, taken drill, so definitely worth investing in. So I put my tripoli buff on. They're going to use my tripoli compounds kind of loaded on there. Once again, we're just going to go back and forth here initially when you add compound cheer your buff it's gonna kind of gum up at first on your medal, but as you use it more and more and go over, those areas can see that it starts to dissipate, and you can always just grab a cloth and wipe it off. So we have a start of our mayor finish here, so that's, you kind of had the tool if you notice I have been told up right here, right on top if you're going to do in the inside, just kind of dangling like that kind of move with the curve knows I'm not going too fast with my flex shaft. You don't want to go too fast, you could easily lose control of the tool, and now you can see that we could start to get a nice finish there on the inside. Now, remember, before you move on to a different compound, you want to make sure that there's, no compound from the previous buffing job, make sure that's gone. Also, you can kind of notice here. This side is a little bit smoother than over here because I actually sand it all the way up to six hundred right here we're over here, I didn't so you can't hide those scratching marks by polishing some people think, you know, it's a whole like I can get away with not going through all the steps because it could take quite a bit of time, but you need to if you really want that nice clean finish so let's just hit this with a little rouge going to see that nice mere finish switching this out remember reaches your red one. There are many different types of tripoli, and there are many different types of rouge just to throw that out there. Um but brown, tripoli and red rouge are kind of your stables, the standard other ones some people believe can work better for different types of metals. Some people believe like oculus white, diamond there's, bobbing compound and polishing can get complex, but this is your basic polish kind of going over that area again and only polish part of it, so you can really see the difference between rouge in tripoli. Now, if you don't really want that mere finish, you know, doesn't need to be that shiny you've been stop a tripoli and you can kind of see here's the rouge and there's the tripoli you can see how much brighter that jump is and you would continue on and your entire piece to kind of create that finish and then your bracelets or done so and like I said before, the sanding, the standing, the polishing, whatever told you use for that are the same for both styles that we just did. Is there any questions? Anything more studio audience has since five u a toll? Yes, yeah, go ahead. But were you by your medal that thick of gauge? Well, some of the metal resource is, um, in the silver, you can actually buy that from it. So, like, I know that rio grande actually does sell this thickness the brass there's a local resource because some of them, when you're working with brass and copper since it's, still an industry based metal, you can actually go to, like welding supply companies and other metal supply companies that use it for like, like other industrial purposes. So rg leahy is where we actually purchased this brass wire, and some of the other jury resources do have these thinker things like I mentioned rio grande, but they they don't necessarily go super thick it's kind of it goes into a specialty item category, and there are a few other some companies that cater to jewelers that are all over the country, like a think of hoover and strong, maybe, um what's the other one medal if chris that's over in new york, they tend to have off beat stuff so you can kind of find the unique things. And, depending on, if you're really getting into it, you wanted to something even thicker than that. And you want to play with some other fund tools. You could actually pour your own inga and make a really thick piece. That's, actually, easier than you think, melting a clump of metal down and pouring it into a mold. That's already shaped with that, uh, form, which is going to get probably, like, zero gauge or something from that, like very thick. And then you can use the hammering techniques here to make it smaller. Or ruling mill, which is another big, fun, big tool to kind of make it down to the size that you want.