Everything About Composition14:48 3
Color Theory In A New Light09:24 4
Getting To Know Lightroom19:29 5
Controlling Luminance Across A Photo28:43 6
Photoshop Controls19:52 7
Mountains Edit34:50 9
Final Notes & Editing Philosophy06:36 10
Welcome Back02:30 11
Planning A Shoot & Tips for Working with Talent05:17 12
Creating Mood Boards07:42 13
Sketching Out Your Vision05:58 14
Andrew Shoots the Truck Bed Scene12:26 15
Andrew Shoots Door and Interior Details21:46 16
Andrew Shoots the Blue Hour Snowstorm12:57 17
File Organization and Archiving05:05 18
Lightroom Panel Overview38:46 19
Edit 0120:35 20
Edit 0216:09 21
Edit 0318:45 22
So once you're done editing, you want to export your photos. I get quite a lot of questions about how to export, and I think I have like four presets I've used for the last several years. Haven't really changed them. I'll just go through them right here, and it should cover probably everything you need. Here's the photo. I'm gonna hit command-shift-E, and that's gonna open this menu. So if I'm gonna create a preset, I'm gonna choose this section. So for the location, I'm gonna come here and choose folder later, useful for presets. And we'll just create the preset from start to finish. I'm not gonna do anything about the renaming, any of that. So let's say I want to make a full-res JPEG. I'm gonna keep this the same, quality 100, sRGB. So this is one thing that will change. If I'm gonna keep it on digital, I'm gonna make it 72 pixels per inch. You can mess with this, sharpen for screen. I've never really messed with it, but I guess if it's for a screen, you could put it on standard or l...
ow or whatever you want. I just have always kept it off. And I like to remove my metadata. Don't really have a good reason behind it, but I just always have. And then from there, I'm going to hit add, I'm gonna say we'll call this one full-res JPEG. Wow. If I could freaking type. All right, we'll call this one full-res JPEG, and I'm gonna say digital and hit create. So that'll be great for if you're delivering for clients or if you're maybe editing 4k footage, having all those pixels there to work with is nice. Now let's say you wanna do print. That's gonna be a bit different. So I'm gonna come back down to this resolution tab, and I'm gonna change it to 300. And I'll keep everything else the same. So quality 100. And one thing that is, I guess, like a debate between what you wanna do for print is JPEG versus TIF. I've had a lot of issues when selecting TIF. When I tried sending TIFs off to get printed, I had to do so many reruns. And by the time my edit was good-looking in print, it looked terrible and de-contrasted on screen. I talked to my friend who did a lot of prints, and he just said, "Oh, I export them JPEG, full-res JPEG, send them off and print." And his prints look beautiful. So long-winded way of saying just export them JPEG and you probably won't have any trouble. The other thing I'm gonna change in this is sharpen for matte paper, and we'll just put it at low. And I'm going to do add, and we'll do full-res JPEG, dash print. The last one would be if I'm sharing a smaller image and it's gonna just be on a screen, it's gonna be digital. It's not gonna go to print. Very simply, I'm gonna hop in here and go to... Leave that the same, in JPEG. I've heard people will take this quality down to 90. I've always just left it at 100, and I'll come down here to resize long edge, and I'll do my pixels at 2048. And I will change this resolution back to 72 pixels per inch. Also don't enlarge. Basically what that means is that if the long edge is gonna be 2048 and your photo file is like 1920, it won't bring it up and make it nasty looking. So keep it simple. And then I'm gonna uncheck sharpen for, leave everything else the same. I'm gonna do add. I'm just gonna title this one 2048 JPEG digital. And the reason why I'm doing it on 2048 is because I think Facebook, at least the last time I checked, and it's been a while. So maybe check for yourself before you create that. Facebook had a upload of 2048 long edge for any of their images that you posted on there. Instagram's was a bit smaller. I think it was 1920 last time I checked. If you just do 2048 and upload it to Instagram, it's just gonna downsize it to 1920. You don't have to like have multiple, like 1920 exports, 2048 long-edge exports. It's just one export. Doesn't complicate anything. And there you go. So from there, I'll just select this 2048 JPEG digital, hit this batch export button, and then you'll come to this, choose your folder. I'll create a new folder called edits, and then a new folder in those edits and just do 2048. And if it was for print, I would say print. If it was full-res digital, I'd say full-res digital, but this one's 2048. You create, choose, export. And if we go into our projects folder, Eli in Montana edits 2048, there it is, crisp and clean, 2048.
Ratings and Reviews
This class is really like a good investment. It's gonna help you step by step and you can come back to it multiple times when you need to. Been watching Andrew Kearns on YouTube since 2018. Massive fan of his editing style. I wanted this class as soon as I saw the discount rate. Being a student from a different country, I probably wouldn't have been able to afford it at it's original price. This workshop goes in real depth towards the "approach" of editing a photo. I learnt a tonne of cool stuff. So many new things. Subtle yet so powerful.
Incredibly Eye Opening This workshop truly opened up a whole new world of editing techniques that I didn't fully realize existed. I'd recommend this workshop for anyone who has a basic understanding of LR and PS already and are hoping to take it to new levels. I will keep coming back to it for a long time!
Very very nice!!
Adventure & Sports