Okay, well, time to dive into the menu system and this is where a lot of excuse me where a lot of features air kind of buried in here some of the more important ones you can get in a more easily accessible place sometimes on the info screen on the back or we can program some of the buttons, but this is where a lot of features are buried in here, so what we're going to have to do is make sure cameras turned on and if you hit the menu button it's goingto take us into the menu and you'll notice that there's a bunch of symbols over on the left hand side and each of these is how we are organizing our different features. The first one is the playback menu holding all the features that deal with playback and then we have the shooting menu, the custom menu and these air just a wide grouping of little features that we can turn on and off depending on how we like to have the camera set up, we'll have a further setup menu retouch menu. This is one of the areas that we're not going to be spending ...
much time as this is an area that would be a big used to somebody who didn't own a computer we'll have a recent settings and my menu which is actually my favorite of the group and then at the very bottom he will see a question mark down there and this is a very good time if that if you want to press the question button over on the left hand side, which doubles as the white balance and protect button, it'll pull up more information about whatever setting that we're currently in and so anytime you want help figuring something out on the camera when you're in the menu system hit that question button and you're likely to get more information and hopefully it'll make it clear for you. So when you get into the menu system and the different icons on the left are activated, you'll see that they turn yellow and you can scroll up and down. You may need to go left or right on that touch pad in the back to make sure that that's active and then as you get into it, they'll turn black so we're going to start up here in the playback menu and we're basically just going to go down line by line and talk about what different things d'oh in the menu system, so first off the delete button, this is essentially a duplicate of the garbage can button right beside the play button, and if you want to go into this, delete it delete button, you can delete individual images, you can delete groups of images by date or by folder from for the most part I would leave most deleting to something you would do in the post processing in the computer. But if you want to delete images just real quickly, I would also probably just use the garbage can button it's just a little bit faster to get to it, but if you want to get to it in here you can. Next up is playback folder and if it is not listed as all on the right hand side tab to the right and select all in there in this camera when you put a memory card in it will make a d seven thousand folder on the card but let's say you have another camera, you have the older d eighty or d ninety and you have you shoot pictures with that there may be a folder on that called a d ninety and if you have all playback polder selected, you can see all the images on your card you will see and hear in a moment where we can create different folders, you could have a folder for business and a folder for personal use and have images in separate folders. And if you only wanted to view certain images, you could do that by selecting which playback folder you're going to be looking at, uh, the hide image if you want to hide an image in the playback mode but you don't want to delete it, you could do that by selecting it in here, you could select an individual image, a group of images of all images on a particular date, for instance, the display mode in here, if you want to dive into the display mode, there's a number of things that so you can check off there's boxes that you can go in and check off in general, if this is my camera, I would probably check all those boxes off because it's optional information that you can pull up if you want it. Now. One of the things that you can pull up is the highlights, and I'm gonna show you a little graphic example of what the highlights dio in a picture where you have overexposed certain pixels, the hot pixels, the blown out pixels will blink it you between white and black and it's a good indicator toe letyou know what area has gone overexposed in general it's kind of a warning that you may have a wrong exposure? There are certain types of photograph, they're very high key, and they're gonna have a lot of blown out pixels, and in that case, you don't need to worry about this, but for general picture taking it's a nice little warning that you've over exposed the image next up is thie copy image, and if you want to make a a duplicate copy of an image on the memory card you can do that and you can also copy from one card to the next image review for the most part I would leave this on this is something that you would leave on so that you could see the image after you've taken it if you're going to do something like a interval time shooting which is something we'll reach upon later on if you're trying to save battery power be another reason you could turn it off to help save battery power so you don't waste a little bit of energy after delete is just a little custom function what happens after you deleted image doesn't go back to the previous image doesn't go to the image that you were headed towards you can customize that has needed there rotate tall now as we go through these features, I will occasionally give you my recommendations especially when I think they're different than what they are set out and on this one I would make sure that you have this rotate tall turned off I'm not sure where it is on your camera but I would turn it off and that way when you take a vertical picture it'll uses much space on the back of the camera as possible it'll still rotate it actually it's controlled someplace else but it can still rotate it in the computer, which is a very handy feature but it wrote it won't rotate it on the back of the camera. After that, we have a slight show mode that we're not going to get into, but if you wanted to hook this up to a tv and have a slide show you, khun set the timing in which images you will show the same thing with prince set, we're not going to get into that in this class. If you didn't have a computer for setting this up on printing, this would select what images you want printed how you want it printed. It uses the standard gpo f print language, essentially so that it can hook up to a lot of printers directly and send them files for printing. All right, next up, we're going to go to the shooting men you see need to tap back over to the left and go down to the camera icon and then back to the right reset shooting options. If you have been playing around in your camera like you are right about to dio on, you want to reset everything back to the factory defaults? You could do it here. The storage folder we talked earlier, about which folder you were using toe look at images, this is where you can select and create unique folders, so for instance, if somebody wants you to shoot pictures for them and you want to shoot all of those images onto one folder that you could easily transfer you khun set that folder up right here and give it a name and have it designated that's where all your images are going to be put file naming your camera has standard final naming protocol that it gives on all its images if you want to go in and adjust the three letter code you could put your three letter our initials in there so that any time you're ah file comes out of your camera it's got your initials on it there are additional ways to put your name in your copyright information but this is yet another way toe add your stamp onto your photographs the role played by card in slot to you'll see and here you have the option of overflow so if you just want to continuously philip both cards fill up one and then the next back up where the information gets written to both cards simultaneously or you can select were raw images and j peg it's our shot now you can also shoot stills and movies but that is selected in a different area on the menu that we will get teo image quality this is accessible by a couple of other routes on the outside of the camera but you can get into here and change it from raw to j peg now you can also change the type of j pegs that you get and along with that we have another couple of settings that are all closely related we have the image size we talked a little bit about this before which is the number of pixels thatyou were recording if you do choose to record in j peg for matt I would generally choose the largest size so that you have the most data to work with if you're downloading to a computer you're working with a program like light room you can crop in later and get good quality results we have compression the confusing thing to me and I would love to talk to somebody very high up in the technical department at nikon is that up an image quality we have different j pegs that we can choose find normal and basic which is a compression setting but we can choose compression setting a again down here and they're both compressing it but I believe in slightly different ways now how much should you compress your images well in generally you want to leave him as un compressed as possible so that you get us much detail out of him if you shoot raw this doesn't matter this is only applying to people who are shooting j peg if you are shooting j peg I recommend large fine quality this final seventh j pick compression there is a size priority or optimal quality I would leave it at optimal quality so you get the best quality images possible next up we have neff recording and so in here we have a couple different recording types. As for the raw image we have a lossless compressed in a compressed and we're not goingto focus on this too long the pixel papers in the cloud and the crowd will be more than happy to talk about this for the next couple hours if you put it in compressed it's going to reduce the file size a little bit and make the camera operate a little bit more quickly in its shot to shot framing and how many shots you can get in the buffer I have seen test results where I have I could not see a compare a noticeable difference between these two and so if you want your camera to shoot a little bit faster I would go with compressed if you want your camera to get as much data as possible I would put it in the lossless compressed and along in there is the bit depth this is recording how many colors you are recording you have the choice of either sixteen million colors which is pretty good or two hundred sixty eight million colors even more this is kind of like the recording of lost less versus compressed if you put it into fourteen bit the camera will record as much data as possible but it will slow the camera down in its motor drive a little bit if you're shooting sports and frame to frame speed is important to you, I would set this at twelve bit if you are concerned about getting every last ounce of quality out of that image, you can put it at fourteen bit I have seen tests between the two and very small to no difference at all in what I've seen with today's software now they may come up with software in two to three years that sees more of a difference, but it is a very small difference in any case next up white balance now we have hit white balance in other places, so we don't need to talk about it too much here we do have a couple of auto modes if you go into the auto mode, you can start customizing this as well as customizing many of the other modes and there is a additional ways to get in and say I don't like the incandescent setting on it I want it to be more bloom or orange more more yellow and so it's got an infinite amount of customizing. Most people really don't need to do this if you shoot raw, you don't need to do it at all because raw records all the straight data anyway and so that's another good reason for shooting rob besides good image quality otherwise all right, so below the white balance we have set picture control this is important if you are shooting j pegs if you're shooting raw, it is not important, but this affects the color contrast saturation of your images you can go in and you can select different settings that air already set up for you or you can create your own and this is something that you really don't need to do if you're going to play around with your images on the computer because you could do it later on the computer, I think with much better results because you have much better feedback knowing that you're looking at a color corrected screen and it just it's a lot easier to work without a standard computer. Next up we have manage picture control and this is where we can go in and customize modes if you want to set a particular sort sharpening contrast brightness saturation setting for a group of images you can do this once again if you use a nice program like light room or photoshopped, you don't really need to do this at all if you want to control it all in the camorra this is where you do it auto distortion control this camera has a lot of things where it's communicating back and forth with the lens and this is one of the areas that the camera may have problems communicating with a non nikon lands in this case, this is one of the things that you might want to turn on here's. A little picture example, um, of any of a situation where I was using a very wide angle lens and there's, a little bit of distortion, you can see that the horizon line is slightly curved and it's not because thie earth is round. In this case, it is simply because the lens did not record it around, so you can correct for that, and I will just go back and forth between these two and have the camera automatically fix that distortion control. And so all lenses have some distortion. Some is just more notable, more noticeable than others. And so on this one, I would kind of hesitate to say, leaving it on to fix that within the lenses. It can be done later, but nikon knows how distorted their lenses are. Because all as I say, all lenses have some distortion, and it is a good way to kind of fix it right out of the gate and there's. Not too many people who like the distortion in their lands, and if they do, they can buy a fish islands next up color space, and in this one, I would recommend going in and changing it to adobe. Rgb dobie rgb is a wider color gamut than s rgb and if you want to submit images to magazines and so forth they prefer that you shoot in the whitest gamut of colors so that you have the largest palette to choose from and so that is one that I would change the active delighting my camera it is often I believe that's the way it is normally when you get your camera and let's take a look at an example of what is going on in active delighting what is happening in an act of delighting is it's trying to accommodate for situations where the brightness and the shadows are far apart and so in this particular situation the shadows are kind of dark if we use active delighting it's gonna lighten up what's in the shadows and let's compare the kind of before and after and in this particular case I like it on but I would hesitate turning it on all the time because some images I think look better with it off and so this is something that can be fixed later in software so I would probably leave this off or on one of the lower settings perhaps I probably win it put it on extra high unless you're in a very unusual situation, but if it was my camera I'd probably leave it off and leave it up to post software to handle it into a better talk about it next up let's see what are we going to long exposure noise reduction in high eso noise reduction these air both kind of too of the same thing we talked earlier about setting your eyes on your camera lois owes you get less noise hi s so you're going to get more noise there is built in software in the camera that can help reduce that however some cameras built in software actually make it worse it depends on the situation, the image and the noise reduction in the level that is set and so you may want to do some tests on your own to see if this is something that you want to use. There is post processing noise reduction software out there so this is something that can be done outside of the camera. It is something that I would generally leave turned off. It can also slow your camera down in your frame to frame shot speed if you have this turned on and you're under very low light conditions and it's something that you may want to turn on from time to time but once again I would do a little checking into it and testing on your own to see if it's something that's important to you next up we have our s o sensitivities and this is something that is more easily accessed by the s o button on the back of the camera but we can get in here and do it as well multiple exposures this camera can shoot two or three pictures onto the same frame essentially once again this is in lieu of photo shop you can't do this in light room and so if you want to take two pictures and take them on top of each other you can do it in this camera I would much rather work it in photo shop because I would have much much better control of it but this camera does give you that option to do it the movie setting if we go into the movie setting you have a number of movie mode in here the first office the quality size so you can go in and choose your frame rates and choose the size of recording that you're getting full hd hd or one of the smaller ones you can control the microphone you could turn the microphone off or change the sensitivity of it you can change choose the destination cardiff you have two cards in your camera you can select the second card for movies rather than the first card and then if you wantto manually control shutter speeds and apertures you can go into the manual movie settings and you can turn that on so you can select your own particular shutter speeds and apertures which if you're going to shoot a lot of videos and you're really into it I would probably keep that in the manual mode so you can make those adjustments next up is the interval timer shooting and this is a fun little feature. I'm really glad that nikon is built this into the camera on let me show you a couple of interval in a kilometer shots that I have taken. This is on lake union here in seattle. This is the duck dodge, and what I did is I took a picture about every ten seconds for about an hour and actually you're going to see here is about forty five minutes compressed down to about fifteen seconds and so it could take a large amount of time and compress it down. Take a look at another one. This is from the desert down in mexico, baja mexico. Each exposure is a thirty second exposure of the stars moving it's going to get dark here in a moment and that is the moon setting, and we'll be able to see the stars even better. And then we got one. Morris is my favorite one. This is in varanasi, india, it's, a very busy, crowded, crowded street system there and just watch some of these yellow buses coming in at the right here in just a moment trying to cross this crowded street just so many people packed on it is just hard for them to get around, and so this is about an hour compressed into once again about fifteen seconds and so you could do this all in here. I'm not going to go into exactly how you said it all, but basically you set the number of shots you set the disk, since between the shots, you can even set how many shots it takes at each interval, but it's a lot of fun and it's a great way to shoot movies in a different way with a still camera that was the interval timer shooter. Next up is the remote control mode. When you use a remote control, you can control whether ear there is a two second delay, whether it fires the shutter immediately or whether it activates the mere up mode on the camera. I think on that one I would leave it either at two or ten seconds, probably two seconds is the most common one. Next up, we're going to be going into the customs setting menu, and this is where we're going toe split things up and have a lot of different choices as we get into this and so first off, we're going to be in the a section for auto focus and let's enter into that. And we have a number of things to look at in here. The first thing is a f c priority selection when the camera is in a f c, which is the continuous focusing or kind of the sports mode of the camera, the camera will take a picture any time you press the button. It won't check to see if your subject is in focus. First it's got a what's called focus excuse me, released priority and you can change that around so that it doesn't take a picture until it is in focus. When you get into sports photography, this may become an important mode to have it turned on or off, and just the opposite is true in the s focusing mode, which is single focus. Generally, the camera will focus on one single object, and it won't fire the shutter until it's in focus and generally I wanted change these first two until you've determined that it you need to change it for what the way you work. Focus tracking with lock on this what is once again for sports photographers you, khun change exactly how the camera reassesses focusing on the focusing points, and this is something that you may need to change depending on the type of sports that you're photographing of, for instance, basketball and auto racing may have very different requirements that way. Subjects come in and out of focus in the way they get interfered with other objects that may get in your way. In general, I wouldn't change anything if you're not doing a lot of sports. If you do get into sports, you khun, look more closely into those those modes a f point illumination on this one inside the viewfinder, the focus points will automatically light up when it's dark, which I think is a fairly convenient thing. If you like him a lot, you can turn him on all the time or if you don't like things popping up in front of you, you can turn him off all the time, but for the most part I would just leave it in auto focus point wraparound. I definitely like the rap, so I would turn the rap on basically what's going on here you have all these focus points, and when you go all the way over to the right and you press right again, it flips around to the left side so it just wraps around back to the left side so you can more easily get from one spot to the other the number of focus points let's, see what we have here, you could choose either thirty nine or eleven points uh for the most part I would leave it at thirty nine points, but you may find situations that you think that's too many points for the type of subjects that you're pointed at you can customize it the built in auto focus illuminator we talked about this this little light on the front of the camera that turns on under low light conditions if you are going to be photographing maybe a speaker or you will don't want other people to see that you're about to take a picture under low light conditions you could turn this off I call this the stealth paparazzi mode so you weren't notifying everybody that you're about to take a picture next up what we have we have a live view movie a f let's see what we're options in here this is where you can control the focus mode and the auto focus area and this is more easily x j air changed in the information panel so I really when it bother changing it here back out of that and what do we have next all right so now we're going to get into the meat oring and exposure section so be one I s so sensitivity step value you khun change the settings from third toe half stop I like third stops just a little more accurate and the same thing for the exposure value steps you can change that half steps if you want sometimes there's light meters or other cameras or devices that work in half stops rather than third stops and you may want to keep this kind of synchronized with the other devices you're working with easy exposure compensation and on this one it's normally off which is where I would leave it if you have it on what it does is it normally to do exposure compensation you have to press a button and turn a dial if you turn it on you don't have to press that button you just turn the dial on it and for some people it turns just a little too easily lightning something we don't get very often here really so we're sitting in the middle of just tons of electronics way we're having a bit of a lightning storm here in seattle way don't yousa get electrical storms here yeah it's uncommon for us continuing on the center waiting area we talked about being able to customize the meter in patterns if the center waited area is something different than you want you can go in and customize it I wouldn't normally change it but you can always do this fine tune optimal exposure b five if you find that your camera is constantly over exposing or under exposing in the past would have to send the camera back to the manufacturer for have them to have them tweak the exposure in here you can tweak it yourself and so if you want to bump it up or bump it down you can go in and do that I wouldn't do it unless you know what you're doing and you know that it's consistently off in one direction. Next up, we're going into the c section for timers and auto exposure law here's where we get to customize a number of things, the first one is your shutter release button, the a l button, the auto exposure lock button you could turn that on so that when you press the button, it locks the exposure in we can also customize this button for something else so there's some other things that I think are important that may be used for doing that auto meter off delay. This is what we went in earlier today and adjusted to a longer period of time as we're getting closer to the end of class. If you want to adjust it back, you can change the time length that the meter stays on generally you want it long enough so that it's convenient to work with but doesn't waste battery power so whatever that common middle ground is for you, I think six seconds was kind of the standard and it's not a bad one to have the self timer allows you to go in and customize how how long the self timer will take before it takes a picture to five, ten, twenty seconds and then how many pictures will it take once you take a picture I found that if you do a group shot, sometimes ten seconds isn't enough. If you're a long ways from the camera, where there's a lot of people that need to get organized, and then if there are a lot of people, I'd highly recommend shooting like three or four shots that way you can avoid people blinking and looking away. You you could probably get one good one out of a bunch of them, and that way you don't have to run back to the camera to set the camera up. Next up is monitor off delay. This is basically how long you want the monitor to stay on and said it to your liking? Um if there's anything else and there you can go in and you, khun individually select different things. Playback menus, information display, image review in live you so you can customize between each one of those how long you think you think they should stay on as a factory default there pretty good to start with, but that's where you change him if need be remote on duration when you are using a remote control, how long do you want the camera to stay active if you're putting the camera in a remote location and you press down on the shutter release that's gonna wake the camera but it may not fire it unless the cameras awake and so you may want to leave the camera awake for a longer period of time if you have a remote hooked up in some situations next up were down at the blue d's which is shooting and display information all right, so here's one that I definitely like to change go into the beep and turn that thing off. Get tired of listening to people's camera come into focus and self timer bp natche s so if you want to be a little bit more quiet and left and, uh, make less of a nuisance of yourself, you can turn that off viewfinder great display we talked about the viewfinder has an optional grid that you could turn on. This is where you do that s o display and adjustment, and one of the things that I don't like about this camera is that natively, as you look through the viewfinder, it doesn't show you your s o but you can change that by going in and show I s o sensitivity and it will show you the esso sensitivity. The problem is, is that you have to choose what's most important to your s o or the number of pictures left and they're both pretty important numbers and so you can choose on it if you do have it set as standard it'll show you the number of pictures and when you press s o it will then show you the s o button and so uh it's a choice on on which one is the lesser of two evils there viewfinder warning display if you want to have those little warning indicators turned on or off like the black and white the memory card and the battery you could have that information there if you don't like it, get rid of it screen tips I would generally leave this on especially if you're new to the camera when you press the info button there's little tool tips that come up indicating what what those features do and so I would leave that turned on while you're learning the camera and maybe as you get more advanced you can turn that one off the e c l mode shooting speed this is the continuous low shooting speed and I think it is normally said it three frames per second which is pretty good but if you want to be more specific about it you want to slow it down or speed it up you could do that remember the high speed continuous is shooting at six frames a second so wherever it is that you want in there the max continuous release how many images do you want the camera to be able to shoot in one release of the camera for most people it's not a big deal with memory cards you can just keep shooting away but for some people maybe they want a little bit more of a restriction they only want to shoot two or three pictures at a time. You khun set that in here moving on to d eight file number sequence on this one I would make sure that it says on it is a continuous cycle ing system that will continually add numbers up. It starts at zero zero zero one and goes up to ten thousand but as a warning it will go back down to zero zero zero one after you've hit ten thousand and so the camera will go through ten thousand pictures and then start re numbering them and this is why I think it's good practice in software light room photoshopped etcetera to re name your files once you get him in your computer so that you don't end up with files with the same number on him information display on this one you can go in and customize the brightness of the display you can also let's see what else can you do here information display. You can also set it manually and you can also change the color of it the way the information panel on the back shows. I think the standard system is our right on it, but you can go in and customize the dark on light or light on dark option of it, the lcd illumination is the next one. And on this one you can. What happens is that if you turn it on the lcd switch around, your shutter release will activate the lcd in the back of the camera. Some people might like that some people might not like it because normally you would just press the info button to turn it on exposure delay mode. This is if you're going to be using mere lockup, it delays the shutter released by one second. It helps leave enough time for when the mere comes up to dampen out any vibrations. If you're going to shoot a lot of copy work, where it's on a copy stand, you're at a critical shutter speed where you might get me, uh, sameer vibration you could set that most people will never use this mount. And next up we have our flash warning there's an indicator in the viewfinder that'll blanket you if you need flash. If you don't like that, you can turn it off the md eleven, which is the vertical grip for this, you can indicate what type of batteries you are using in there, it needs to know for power consumption, what type of batteries being used, the battery order. There's a battery in the camera and then there's a battery in the vertical grip and you can decide which battery gets used first for whatever reason you might need not sure what that would be, but you could decide it once we get through this thes customs will take a break and go for some questions at the end of this, but well, just go ahead and finish this e section here, which is bracketing and flash so flashing speed you can select what's the maximum shutter speed or what shutter speeds you can use with flash yeah, and I would leave it at one to fiftieth of a second you could adjust it if necessary, but one two fifty is the maximum shutter speed that the camera will allow, so why not let it do it? And then in flash shutter speed, what are we doing here? Remember this in some of the automatic moz, what will the camera allowed? So if you've set your camera aperture priority and it needs the flash, will it just stay at sixty eighth of a second? Or will you allow it to go down to a slower shutter speed? And this is really going to depend on how confident you are in working with slow shutter speeds and flash if you're not sure what you're doing, I would probably leave it at a sixteenth of a second if you feel more confident that you have good control over low light and working with the flash, you might go down to a fifteenth or an eighth of a second or as much as thirty seconds depending on how you like to use your camera and then we have flash control for the built in flash the built in flash is an automatic flash it's going to figure out how much light you need and we looked at our flash exposure compensation so we can power it down if we want but in here we can actually go in and set it manually if we want, we can also do a repeating flash and we could do a commander mode where we hook this upto another flash unit which is a whole other class into itself and working with remote flashes so it's very capable. But this is how you get to it modeling flash modeling flash here something that you could turn on or off. This is option that the built in flash will fire very quickly. It looks like a strobe light going off very, very quickly and allows you to see where the shadows are going to be when the flash actually does fire and it's activated with the mere lock up but auto bracketing set you can choose what you are shooting when you do an auto bracketing, you can choose auto exposure and flash auto exposure only flash white balance bracketing or active delighting in there and so most people are going to leave this on the first option a e and flash not something most people are going to choose the bracketing order we had a question earlier about changing the bracketing order normally it'll shoot the meter setting first and then the under and then the over but you could do under metered and then over whatever your choice actually we got one more set to go through before we'll go to questions on this will go down and do the final controls on this and so first up is thie lcd illuminator switch and I think I may have misspoken on an earlier one because this is what I was thinking of when you activate this one it turns on the information screen on the back as well as the light on the top lcd panel next up is the ok button normally it will reset the focusing point to the center remember this little touch pad in the back controls the focusing in normal shooting modes by pressing the okay it gets you back to the center point you can customize how that is signed right there you can just have it highlight the active point to show you where it's at f three this is how we get teo start assigning features to our camera the function button which if you recall is this little button right up here on the lens next to the lens of the camera right where your forefinger might be, it says f n on it, and you can assign what feature goes in there and there's about nineteen different features that you can put in there of the ones that I've seen that I kind of like, I kind of like either spot metering grid or virtual horizon. I think those air three kind of neat options to set in there to reassign that button. The next is the assign preview button. The preview button is just below that kind of on the bottom of your camera, right below the lands it's, unlabeled just a plain old black button normally it's going to do depth of field preview, which is probably where I would leave it, but if you don't like that, you find something else more useful. By all means, go in and change it, and then the a l and a f l button on the back of the camera that too, can be changed, and I would leave it either as thie a f lock button or you might want to try it as thie on button so that you can focus your lens by pressing that button in the back, which gives you a different option for focusing rather than the shutter release in front. Next up, we have f six customize command dials if you don't like the way the dials turn you can reverse um if you don't like the main command in the sub command and you want to reverse them you khun switch what the dial's d'oh you can get in on the er aperture setting and you can actually change that on the aperture ring if you want to so you can customize ah lot of the way the buttons and dials work and this is just one of those areas to do that let's see what do we have next release button to use? Dia let me recall try to remember this one I gotta look at my notes on this one uh normally when you want to change one of the features on the back white balance eso or quality you would press that button, leave your finger on the button and turn a tile if you want to go in and turn this on, basically what you would do is you would press the button it would stay active you don't have to keep your finger on the button then and you would turn a dial. Most people are going to worry about this but if you do want to adjust the way those buttons work, you could do it here slot empty release this basically prevents you from taking pictures or at least thinking you're taking pictures when there's no memory card in the camera and so normally it's locked and you can't fire the shutter with no memory card in there so I would leave it where it's normally at leave it locked reverse indicators we mentioned in the viewfinder if you don't like the direction that the plus and minus buttons are on, you can reverse that here and then you can assign the features to the buttons on the md eleven vertical grips. You can customize that as well and so that takes us through the custom menu before we jump into the setup menu will go ahead and pause and see if we have some questions on all of those little features you want to see if we have some questions from dewey? Is there anybody out there that has a question? Yes, there are many I didn't say I want to hear the questions I just want enough. There are questions that there's quite a few questions I would lose twenty seven um I have a couple people were curious about your scenes from varanasi. Yes ask factor had asked, did you manually zoom out or is that a programmable setting? Very observant? Good question. No, here is one of the reasons for time lapse shooting, which goes into a whole nother area, but if you do want to shoot timelapse, a good thing to do is to shoot large j pegs because it is way overkill for hdtv, and you can start zoomed in in final cut pro and soon back, so I'd never move the lens. And I simply did that zooming afterwards, and there was more than enough resolution in final cut pro to do that. And so one reason to shoot large j pegs and the other things for shooting an interval. Ometer siri's is manual focus and manual shutter speeds and aperture said everything up manually so that nothing changes from shot to shot. Great, thank you from the audience and house comment. Yeah, I did a time lapse on this camera, and I shot it in j pegs and various shots of j pigs were different stop exposures. It was really strange what was causing that was that what were you in manual mode? Or I was in manual mode? Everything was manual that doesn't make sense. It was kind of weird, but when I shot raw, everything was perfect. Have you been able to go back to the metadata and see if your cameras it has a listed different shutter speed or different aperture? A cz faras I could tell I mean, everything looked like all the exposures were the same, and it was really strange because it was just every now and then there was is a shot that was a little brighter than the next and I had to go back and manually adjust each frame to make it look the same really so I would suggest shooting raw if you can afford to have that much yeah I've I've heard some people recommend shooting raw the problem with roz that you're going to then have to convert hundreds and hundreds of images to j peg and while I like rye images for their better quality hd tv as great as it is it is it anywhere close to what this camera can shoot on still images and so you're just not going to be able to take advantage of the wider color space or the extra pixels and so you don't need it watch out yeah that's what I experience you had that on a d seven thousand interesting okay, so something beware of thanks um new york had asked if you go from uh if you go from the thirty nine focus points down to the nine points does the focus speed increase um I in sports setting orin panning shots I think that totally depends on exactly what you're focused on and how it's working the nine points that you're using are all the really good points if you're have the thirty nine points generally what's going to happen is that you have this large area in front of you and it's using all the points to try to focus on something and basically it's going to hit the it's going to focus on the first solid object it hit so whatever's closest to you. So if something is fairly close over there on the far left hand side that's, what it's going to try to grab and those focus points are not as good as the ones in the center, and so I would think that you would might get slightly higher performance from the centre brackets, but your subject is going to have to be in the center of the frame and your baby not going to be as versatile as faras the composition of where your subject is. And so all sports are uniquely different whether you're shooting track and field or football or soccer or auto racing or birds flying or lions running just the types of movement that they have, how they fill the frame your angle of view, your lens that's why are there so many customization tze on the focusing system from brackets and how quickly it changes focusing points and so forth? You might be one of the few photographers in the room who have actually photographed alliance running. I have photographed lions laying down in the field, not running about tigers close analysis of trips to the seattle zoo don't count ah question about africa priority that you can only sink it one sixteenth of a second, not at once the fiftieth, which it should shouldn't it in africa priority and they go ahead and put this camera an aperture priority and just kind of as natural. My camera is at a sixteenth of a second right now and an aperture priority. I can change the aperture, but I can't change the center speed and it's because we have that customized setting at one sixtieth of a second the camera would like to shoot it a slower shutter speed, but that's kind of a good general I would call it don't mean to disparage anybody here, but the mom and pop mode you know they're just taking pictures of their kids, they don't want to do it fifteen second exposure because they're going to end up with a blurry picture. There could be all sorts of reasons why you do want to do a fifteen second exposure and have the flash fire off, but you kind of want to be aware that that's how your camera's set and so in this aperture priority mode let's, let me go ahead and pump the I s o up really high and see if I can get it go there. I pumped it up to sixty four hundred actually me dio thirty two hundred and I'm at one sixty eighth of a second I could get up tio I s so five thousand and now I have a flashback of two fiftieth of a second so the camera inherently wants to be in a sixteenth of a second, and we'll only jump up if it absolutely has to unless you throw it into manual unless you throw it in the manual mode and I want to do basically whatever you want, I still can't go above two fiftieth of a second for your thanks mean, yeah, because the picture would not be evenly exposed, but I could go as slow as I want as well. And so surprisingly, uh, while flash is one of the most complicated areas of photography, if you're going to use flash manual is a great mo to be it, and so I would I would recommend it cause you, khun just but it's great for all the other things too. And so this is where you can take start taking control of all the aspects of your photography. Yeah, I would. I would concur there as well. Someone who does a lot of stuff with lighting eso off camera lighting, just a s'more consistent. Yes, just a couple of questions I've seen going back and forth. I know it's probably not in the plans for today, but how would you compare the sensor in this camera to like the d three hundred s? I know there's some similarities, and I know that the d three hundred s offers cem functionality that this camera wouldn't because it's considered higher model, but do you know anything about? Well, I think you're in comparison, I'm going a little sidestep it a little bit in that this class is not a comparison class. We're not comparing how this camera compares with another camera. There are other people who are much better suited to testing and comparing cameras. This is mainly designed for people who want to learn how to use his camera, but I realized there's a lot of people out here as of today, nikon is in a very strange situation because the d three hundred s, which is the step up from this camera in some ways, has less features. It has less megapixels, there's, a number of features that are on this one that are not on the step up model because the step up model is kind of on an older camera, and I would expect them to come out with a new version of that camera with all of these benefits even better. And so it's kind of an awkward step right now, which is great for the d c seven thousand sales because a lot of people who might be stepping up are actually getting this camera, and so oh, the sensor and it is really good I haven't done a side by side comparison with the three hundred s but I would expect that there's going to be a model after the d three hundred s that is gonna have either this sensor orry slightly better sensor in it as well as being better constructed, better focus and whatever else better they want to make about it. And so for right now this is a great buy in comparison with other nikon cameras because it's the latest technology yeah agree thank you, thank you case that had asked there tons of features on the camera, obviously. And what percentage do you think you would use for ninety percent of your shooting? Okay, I'll break it down of all the features on the camera fifty percent you will never, ever, ever, ever use forty percent you will use once and ten percent you'll use on a regular basis and when we get down to the end of this, the camera operation, we're going to go through those ten percent over and over again so that everyone feels really comfortable with where all those ten features are on those camera we're going through. We're kind of in the midst of going through those things that you'll set once you know you like the meter to stay on for fifteen seconds rather than ten that's not something that you're likely to change very often and those with those ones in half of the ones that we go through in here you just don't use I used to tell people that these cameras are kind of like cable tv just because it comes with two hundred channels doesn't mean you watch all of them right? I agree the same thing we were talking about that earlier is like some people read the manual I don't read the manual I go to the manual when I I need to do something and I don't know how to do it and there's tons of features on my camera that I probably don't use I just want to say I'm really surprised you didn't say there's a slide for that because there the exciting keynote slides that air coming up oh it's with you I don't want to give it to you I don't wanna lead into what's going up to but I'm not going to happen too much that's a great question for what's coming up yes so I know we're still diving deep into the menus I believe there's a way to change the the stops from increments of a third toe half we'd actually already passed by that okay but you know just for kicks I will go ahead and do that life for the camera above on that one I believe it is in the meeting and exposure section and actually be one and b to weaken change is so sensitivities from one third to one half step and the exposure value from third a half step I know I have an older handheld light meter I know that makes me sound ancient but it works in half stops and so if I wanted my camera to be sync up with that device I might change my camera half stops I'm so used to shooting in thirds I wouldn't know what to do with myself anymore yeah trademark he had asked if you could please talk about custom white balance with great cards, etcetera custom white balance we talked about this very briefly in the white balance section, but if you're in an a lighting situation that well it's funky lighting it's just weird and the standard white balance settings don't work what you canoes you can photograph a white sheet of paper and go into the custom white mallet setting of the camera there will be instructions and I don't want to go through it all right now but it will basically a step by step procedure where you tell the camera I'm going to shoot a piece of white paper and you shoot a piece of white paper and the camera figures out what sort of color tint is on it because if it knows it's a white piece of paper it can see how the sensor is picking it up then corrects for that on future shots so you do need to be in the custom white balance mode you then need to calibrate it and so I would look into your instruction manual to find the details on it. Most people don't do this on a regular basis if you shoot in raw it's not a huge deal but if you are shooting something that needs to be very precise and color your working for a clothing manufacturer or someone who does painting and the colors have to be as accurate as possible this is a way for you to get as accurate colors as this camera can produce. Thank you. Thanks. Do you want to take more questions because there are a lot more let's take a couple more, you know way went through a lot of stuff and there's a little little thanks it's kind of kind of related have you noticed what the file sizes for the rhyme inches on that one file sizes are going to be pretty close to sixteen megabytes primitive but they do vary if you shoot a picture of a white wall it's going to be lower than it is of something that has wildly contrast ing colors and shapes and so far okay, starbucks uh, star bites would like to know what's the highest isil recommended on the seven thousand until the image looks greenie ooh that is a subjective question my general rule of thumb on all cameras and I'll throw it on this one is that the highest eso setting is garbage the one below that is garbage as well and the one below that is probably the highest one that I would think about setting on any sort of half to basis it's one of those things you always want to keep the s o s lowest possible but why does it shoot it? Twenty five thousand eight hundred as I like to say if elvis and bigfoot or stepping off the ufo and it's the only way to get the shot it's better to get that shot than a blurry one s o it's there if you need it but try to keep it as low as possible and what is the third? What is the third setting that would be that would put us it started goes up to twenty five so that's bad twelve spat so that would be about sixty four hundred you know, if you got to get the shot I have no problem studying it at sixty four hundred but at that point, you know it's got to be a really important shot. You're not shooting it for its beauty. You shooting it because you need the shot. Okay. Okay. Thanks. Don, um shasta had asked, is there a lock on the mod dial? A lock on the mood? I'll know most cameras do not have a lock there is a camera too out there that do, but this one does not so you do need to be a little bit careful about taking the camera in and out your camera back uh it can get bumped out of the mode that it's in so I've seen one or two questions I think about this and I know personally this doesn't sound like a good idea but I'm gonna ask it anyway is it true that you can't change the aperture water shooting video now changing yeah, we actually had a question here on one of our live students and so I was running it through a quick test and if you are shooting video or you're in the live you mode you cannot change the aperture however you can change the aperture before going into live you before you start shooting your video and so if you want to set a specific aperture f sixteen I said it before you go in to the live you mode and that you can select the shutter speed afterwards I'm not sure why what's going on on the electronics there's nothing wrong with the camera it's just the way it's designed but it can be controlled just particular about the way it's controlled they will take one more question and then move on so find me a good one man good one okay fine one that is a really long question but very shortened answers so I can rest while you're reading the questions okay I don't know if this is a short answer did you have a good one? Okay, I'm totally kidding what my name in the chat room and ask, is there a solution to activating video remotely using either a wireless remote or the I r a mode or even tether shooting with either lightning were nikon cannon control pro to remote activation of the video? You know I haven't played with all the other software tethered shooting, so I don't know for sure, but I don't think so about the best I can offer is that this front function button can be reprogrammed to start the recording as opposed to the back button it's just one of those things this camera's not designed to shoot video it's designed to shoot still pictures and it doesn't have all the right hook ups that someone who shoots movies wants it tohave so unless somebody in the chat room can correct me on that, I don't know of any other device that starts the recording without touching the camera and so that's that's why we have to edit things later on after the cameras stop vibrating down so we're gonna go ahead and kind of get back into the menu system here and we are at the custom settings menu, which is thie wrench icon and the first thing here is thief format memory card now whatever you head out on an important shoot it's good that you have downloaded all the information off your memory card backed it up don't all that and that you reformat your memory card before you go out and shoot this cleans up all the files, all the folders and problems that are with your card it cleans up the best I can and so it's good to reform at the card as opposed to just simply deleting all the images so reformat don't delete next up save user settings remember the custom one where the user one in the user to mode on the top mode I'll well, you can go set your camera up manually and then register things in here so what you would do there is just go set the camera as you wish it to be operated and then go to save user settings and lock in where you want those set out. If you want to reset those users settings back to the factory default, which is basically just a program out, you can go in and do that at the reset user settings the lcd brightness how bright is the viewfinder in the back? In general, I would leave this at zero, but if you are showing images under bright lights sunshine, for instance and you want the images to be seen a little bit better you could pump that up but I want it leave it at a higher rating all the time, because a lot of people are doing their exposure adjustments by simply looking at the back of the camera, clean image sensor and so on. This setting here on the double check. Basically, this is where you can clean the sensor right now, and it just does that automatic cleaning the camera is naturally set to clean it, start up and start down, which I think is fine, and you probably won't need to come to this section ever, but you could turn it on and clean it several times in a row. Or you could just turn it on and off several times in a row, and I would do the same thing. You also have mere lock mere up for cleaning. And this is if you want to be a little bit daring and take a sensor swab or other device to get in and actually clean the sensor itself. It's not something I recommend for everyone, but if you're a daring individual and you have careful, steady hands, you can clean the censor yourself. If not, you can turn it into repair facility to have them clean it video mode you can go in here and change from ntsc, too, pal depends on what video system use here in north america. We use ntsc, other parts of the world used pal this will also determine what types of shutter speeds you can or frame rates you can get in the video mode, so whether you should eat at twenty four or twenty five frames a second, and then we have an hd my control, which controls the output resolution and device control. If you have this cooked up to an hd tv, you can control the camera somewhat by the remote of the tv. If you have this activated flicker reduction when you're in the live you or them movie mode, the screen refresh rate on the back of the camera may interfere with lights. You're working so you can adjust for flicker problems for the time and date you can go in and set that as well and that's, one of the first things that you want to set on a new cameras to make sure it's set for the time zone and place that you're in. And when you travel to a new location to change that to your new location, this is not bluetooth enabled, it does not change automatically. This is something that you need to change yourself. We have the language so you can choose your own language, lots of different languages in their image comment, you can input different comments, and you can choose to whether you want them attached or not, so you could put your name in it's copyrighted this is property of things like that, you can add that information and it goes with the metadata of any image auto image rotation. This is one that you want to leave on. This is the one that will rotate the image when it comes into the computer, which is an awfully handy thing for shooting verticals and horizontal is you don't have to go in and manually change that around later. Dust off reference photo if you are in a remote area, you don't have your cleaning tools for cleaning the censor. The auto clean isn't getting it clean. You can shoot a white piece of paper at f twenty two there's instructions on the instruction manual and exactly how to do this. But basically you shoot a white piece of paper at f twenty two and the camera will then be able to detect where there is problems on your sensor with dust, and it will then try to shoot around those by basically cloning them out as you shoot. And so I would prefer not to do this if I could clean the censor myself. But it is it's an emergency situation for getting away from having dust on all your images in a remote location, and then one of my favorite ones is battery info, and this goes in and gives you very precise information. On your battery? How many pictures have you taken? How good is the battery and its current life? How good is it in its overall life? Do you need a replacement battery? Because it can't hold a charge anymore. And this is something that I would encourage you to add to your my menu, which is something that we're going to get two in just a moment. Wireless transmitter on this one. Yeah. It's great out of my camera because I don't have a wireless transmitter connected up to my camera, but there would be some controls for that if you had, I believe it's a w t four transmitter hooked up to your camera, you could get in where that would send data to a computer. Next up, we have copyright information. This is where you can actually put your copyright information. This is slightly different than comments you can have both. If you want there's a lot of different settings that you can save in your camera, you know your custom, your user setting one and user setting too well, that might take you two or three minutes to figure out everything you want. And if you want to take all the settings from this camera and save it and get excuse me if you want to save all the settings off of this camera and transferred to another camera you could do that by saving all the settings onto a memory card putting that memory card in a different camera so if you have a previous nikon camera that you have set up the way you like you can take all those settings and transfer him over here it's just basically like getting a new computer and transferring all your preference is over there's control for the gps unit in here not going to spend too much time on that the virtual horizon which is kind of a fun little feature on here and if we could get our camera off to the side on this one it's got a nice little feature and this is one of the features that you might add to your my menu which I say I'm going to talk about in a moment here because if you have a problem getting level horizons this will help you out in getting perfectly level horizons and it's just a nice little graphic that is easy to work with very intuitive in my mind but it is buried a little bit deep in the menu system in my opinion non cp you lens data this camera works with a lot of older nikon lenses that do not have the computer chips and that's the cp use and so you can program you know let's say you have an old classic fifty millimeter one point for manual lands you can program the camera toe let the camera know that it's got a fifty millimeter one point four, so that information is written to the metadata of those images, and so if you have different lenses, you can program those lenses in and have that part of it so it's great to use with older manual lenses. In that regard, occasionally, cameras will have a problem. In focusing they will have a back focus or front focus and it's it's hard to say what the problem is sometimes it's land, sometimes it's camera, but some cameras just constantly back focus or front focus on a consistent basis and on previous cameras you had to send it back to the manufacturer with your lens for a month to have them re calibrated. Well, if you're good at testing things yourself, you can get in and go in and adjusted yourself here, and you could adjusted and really small increments. So you know if you focus on ten feet and it focuses on ten feet one inch you khun back that off to where it's supposed to be? There is also a knife I card that you can put in here, and if you could, if there was one in here, this is where it would show up. Next up is firmware version. You might want to take a look at that right now. Thie camera that I have has version one point zero zero but I know from checking the website out yesterday that the current version is one point one and so they've made a few fixes in the firmware, which is the software that is running basically all the operations of the camera. And so the process is to go to nyu cons website, go to their downloads, download the current version, put it on to a memory card, put the memory card in here, and then follow the instructions here and firm in firmware version to update that software it's free, it doesn't take too long is pretty easy to dio, and so, in general, it's, good to have your camera running on the latest software, because that is going to be the lest the least buggy. Of all the options out there, the next set up, our bolo set up excuse me below set up is the retouch menu, and this is something I'm going to pass by very, very quickly on, because if you use photo shop, light room or any other program, you can do it much better, in my opinion in the computer. But if you play back an image and you hit the ok button right in the middle there it is automatically going to enter the retouch menu so any time you want to taken image and play with it. You can do it in here now, a lot of the things that you're going to be doing, as I say, you could do better in photo shop, light room or other programs in this camera. If you don't have access to the computer, you can do it straight in the camera, and in many cases it takes your image that you're about to manipulate. It makes a copy of that image and works on that copy. See thatyou're not damaging the original image and there's all sorts of fun things that you can do in here. You know, you can trim an image, you could turn it into black. And why you can change the color all sorts of filter effects that you can do with it. You can do double exposures with two existing images. You, khun resize it. One of the thing that things that's kind of nice. Number eight up here is thie neff for raw processing. If you have a raw image, you can turn it into a jpeg in case you want to be able to transfer it a little bit more quickly. And as you can see there's just a lot of things that you can do to alter an image after the fact and we got some more things even have a fisheye fake lens. You could do a miniature effect, which those certain parts of the picture out of focus and you can go into the movie mode and start editing your movie if you want. And then you could do a side by side comparison of the images that you've played with and their original image so let's move on down to the last tab, which is my menu, and when you get into here, you'll have a couple of options. If you go over to choose tab, you'll have the choice between recent settings or my menu, and if you're going to using this camera on a regular basis, I would probably select my menu. If you're not going to use the camera often, I would just go with recent settings basically what's going to happen is any time you go to this tab it's just going to go to the features that you used last, but for a regular user, goto my menu and here's where you can start adding in your favorite customized features. So I'm going to go up to add items, and I want to find that. Battery option because I want to be able to test the battery and see the battery and so I'm going to go into see if I can find it I think it was in the setup menu and let me go through this and see if I can find it there it isthe battery info and I'm going to press okay on that battery info and then press ok again and now battery info is at the top of my menu now there's something else that I would like to add into my menu that I think a lot of people should have been there if we go back to the custom setting menu excuse me, it's going to be it's going to be the setup menu and I'm gonna go to the top of the list and that is format memory card oh cannot be used in my menu. Nikon why did you do this? Shame on you, nikon. I want that in my menu that will allow me okay, I'll find something else. Ah let's see what's an important little thing that might be nice to have in there virtual horizon there we go. I like that one, so I'm going to add that to my menu and so now when I go to my menu system and I press that on ly the features that I use the most will pop up there uh, this is all going to be under my menu. And so you would add items to my menu. And so I can also rank the items. So right now I have virtual horizon and battery info. If I want battery influence, the top item I can hit. Okay. Selected. Move it up to the top of the list. Impress. Okay, so you could have as I'm not sure the limit the number that you could have in here, but it's probably good to keep it down to maybe four, five or six items. And you can order them the way you want, so that when you go into that tab of your menu, it's, just those four, five things that you use most of the time and it's a nice feature to have. And so you can add items, you can remove items, you can choose the ranking of them, and then she was, which tab? By going to my menu. So that ends are tour of the menu system, so we'll kind of taken break and see if there's any questions on other things in the menu system. There's always questions, john. Yes, yes. Always questions. Uh, just want to know if there was a grid feature, there is a grid view and you see, I'm really good at telling you if it's there but where it is is another issue let's see if I can find it in the cousin anya in the custom menu. Hoo hoo shooting display yeah, maybe the shooting display menu information? No, I failed on that one. Where is it is in the setup there is a grid mode that you can program in one of the ways you can do it. Ah, for like the function button. You can do it in there. One of the other options. If we activate the camera the above karma, I'll press the info button and I'll press the info button again and you'll notice how we can navigate through this setting here. And if I go down to the function button, I compress okay? And I can go to frame ingrid right here and press ok? And now when I press the function button now I do have to be looking through the camera like this and where's my function but in why's that not working for me uh that's always embarrassing minnie laura says it's indeed to the grand de tu let's go try that d to also I did have it right but I just didn't see it I went too fast by correct d too thank you very much thanks let's go ahead and turn that on and it's in her viewfinder now so I can't show that live here on the sea if I if I go to the live you now there's a different there's a grid for the viewfinder and then there's a grid for the live you in live you I put it in a live view, that's a terrible expression suggest it's at least it's a decent exposure, and I can activate the grid by pressing the information button and get a grid pattern in there. So just the info button in live you live, you and other modes are just different on the way certain things were turned on and off, but thank you. Thanks, john. I just wanna let you know that case. Ted said every camera should come with gringo in the box. Too many gringos that's going to be tweeted out yeah, I'm waiting to see the tweet come in now I'm watching twitter going, is somebody going to eat that question about the virtual horizon? Andi, I did miss part of that myself. So one question to come in from twitter and then somebody in room was asking something that went along with it about is it visible when looking through the viewfinder or in live you or I it is not visible through looking through the viewfinder, it's going to be on the back screen, okay? S so it's going to be either in live you there's a slightly different looking one in live you versus non live you and it it does work in vertical as wells horizontal let's look to see if it works upside down yeah, it gives you the indicator that it's correctly level their nice little device. Florence in the chat room had asked, why can't they access the retouch menu? And it says it's unavailable with their settings someone else had asked do well, do you have pictures on your card? And they said yes, they have a lot yes, it depends and it it may not be able to be the available let me take a look let me make a quick setting I'm going to change my quality setting to shoot raw for this class I've been shooting j pegs just because we're here in the class on the start, serious pictures, but if I shoot a raw image I play it back and then I hit the ok button you know, there's certain types of pictures that it doesn't want to play with when you get into the retouch menu and I thought it was the raw images, but it appears to be accepting that cps okay, so I'm not exactly sure why it's not available, but I know it's not available in some types of images it may have to do with fourteen better twelve bit images how they're stored but it has to do with the basically the types of images that are available I'm sorry I don't know that maybe we can ask many laura miller says it's always surprising what they have to say um another question from david are what do the a b a l mean and firm where version menu a and b firmware versions that's right not something that is clearly talked about and so l is the last version that was active in the camera and you can add in let's say you get version one point one you can load version one point one but you can still keep one point oh around in case nikon finds out that one point one is worse than one point oh you could always switch it back over to the b version and so you what you want to do is you want to have the current version and then the one back from that just in case they find that this one's really bad and it's going to take him a while to make a fix for that and then it shows you the last one that was in the camera you can't get to it but it and this is I have version one point zero zero two which is probably one of the ones that was in preproduction okay great thank you I'm laughing at the tweets now the every camera should come with a gringo and a black rapid in the head, what with that person like win, maybe that's a good one? Um, I have a question from gamer photo guy, is there a way to display the exposure meter in live you exposure meter in live you let's, go and give this a try here, let's set it up in live, you will hit the information button and see what sort information we can get. Actually, we are in manual exposure, and I can adjust my shutter speeds as we were talking about earlier and were simply using the screen itself so we don't have an indicator we don't have lines, dials or circles or anything that we're trying to line up. We're just basically looking at the screen to see if it's bright or dark, which is going to make it very difficult to work with in live view outside, and this is one of the reasons why a lot of people have loops that they will be looking at there's a different a number of different hoops out there, I think the recruiter and a goodman luke for some of the most popular ones so that you could magnify and look very, very closely at the frame, and so yeah, that is a bit of a limitation for shooting movies. Next question okay, I'll have someone okay, I'll keep going. They're going to argue for a little while so we'll get a break. No, nono, no arguing here. Okay? Murder had asked. I'm in manual shooting raw assigned function button to grit, our horizon. But nothing happens when I press on that button. Why? John has all the answers. Just just give it a second party thinks he will answer you on the spot. I got it. I feel like I need to know the answer before the us. I mean, you can't necessarily answer these questions in five seconds. Thank you. Two minutes. It shouldn't have anything to do with the fact that they're shooting raw. And I'm trying to figure out if there's an easy reason why that would be he let me just see if I can look through here. I haven't easy question that will come out for this just to give you you know, I just I don't know that one and we'll move on. I'm sorry. No problem. Okay, well read. I would like to know where you are. Rita would like to know. Where do you go again? For the firmware version and instructions from where version well, first off on your camera, turn my camera on if you go to the setup menu format memory card there's a long scrolling you can look the other direction, so if you go one up from the memory card it's going to go to firmware version so it's in setup menu it's at the bottom or you can loop around through the direction pressed to the right and that's your firmware version now to get the new firm where you go to nikon dot com or nikon use a dot com, you go to their doubts drivers download something like that upgrades and that they will basically steer you to the direction of new firmware for this particular camera and then it will have a long list of instructions and agreements for you to download this software it will download onto your computer relatively quickly it's a relatively small file size, you'll drag and drop that onto a memory card thatyou will plug into the camera and then go back to that firmware version and it will give you instructions on howto input it at that point. Thank you, there's a lot of other stuff to read I don't want to go through all the details on that. Yeah, one of the other chatters shared a link for us are okay, thank you we've got a link out there for people to find that information um question going back to the viewfinder can a viewfinder show both the iso in remaining exposures at the same time, I think it sounded like no it's, this one, or this one or the other. The standard setup is just to show you the remaining pictures. If you press so it will turn on and that's. Not a bad option. But some people like to see the show all the time. And that was one of the features that we went by in the menu system, that you could customise. So I'm kind of a basic question from bosu, one of the what's, the basic tests to be done upon receiving a new d seven thousand to make sure that everything works as it should. There's a slide for that way. Have a lot will actually go through that here in a moment, okay?