All right, so some of the basic things that you want to make sure that you have right is you want have a charged battery, ready to go in your camera. You have memory cards in one or both of the slots, and they have been formatted. You have set the correct image type raw j peg or both. You've gone through your menu settings, and they're set the way that you want them to be. And if it's really important, I would go in and I would shoot a test photo against away white background to see if you have any major dust that needs to be cleaned up. You can either manually clean it, or you could go through the sensor cleaning were automatically clones out the dust on their. All right. So these are the ten areas of the camera that you were going to be constantly working with, almost no matter what you were doing. Most of them deal with exposure. Some of them deal with focus. And here are my recommendations on how I would set the camera for a variety of situations. Okay, the super simple mode. You k...
now what? After watching this class, you're probably not going to use it in the super simple moat, but if you're going to hand it to your significant other who doesn't know how to work your camera here's a good way to set it up for them for just really easy use. Put it in the p mode for shutter speed and apertures. The program mode will figure that exposure stuff out. Put it in the auto sl mode. Maybe you've gone into customize how high and limit the highest I so that it will go to make sure the exposure compensation is at zero you don't want that shooting at minus three all the time. For me, uttering evaluative meter is going to be your best all around me during pattern for white balance auto does a very good job of vast majority of the time for focusing for basic photography. One shot is where the camera focuses on a subject stops there and then you khun recompose if you want for focusing points, you could leave it in all sixty one and it looks for anything to focus on within all sixty one points, it will focus at whatever is closest to you, so it may not be best in some situations, but for really basic photography it's an easy way to work with the camera and then in the drive mode. Put it in in the single drive mode would make sense that that you just get one picture when you press down on the shutter release. All right? So if you wanted to work with your camera and what I call the old school retro mode, you're going to probably be wanting to shoot it in the manual mode, you'll pick a manual shutter speed let's say one hundred twenty fifth of a second that's good for general photography for a lot of things aperture wise, let's go toe f eight maybe you're following along on their camera. We chose faa because there's a great old saying in photography f eight and be there that's how you take a good shot for I so maybe you like using try x film back on the day? Or maybe you still do I s o four hundred little bit faster gives you a little bit of that pastor edge for faster shutter speeds, not going to use exposure compensation because we're in a manual mode. Traditional cameras used center waited metering and so maybe you want to give that a try out here white balance let's, go ahead, just leave that it auto and keep things simple for focusing going to manual, you'll actually be flipping the switch on the land so there's a switch on the lands for going from auto focus to manual you don't need to worry about focusing points at that time and maybe you want to have the motor drive turned on low because you're not going to be ridiculous about shooting lots of pictures at once twelve pictures in one second so that would be a good setting for any old school shooters out there. All right, let's do some practical photography that you might want to do with this camera landscape photography so the idea here is that you're probably working off of a tripod you're going to want to have a lot of things in focus, so you're a little critical about where you focus and you don't really care about your shutter speed because your subjects are not moving in your camera is steady because it's not moving around on a tripod in these sorts of situations I would be in manual exposure the shutter speed the appropriate shutter speed is whatever it needs to be, but just for practice purposes it's probably going to be a slower shutter speed in this case will say a half second aperture wise, you're going to want to close the aperture down eleven sixteen twenty two thirty two would all be possibilities we'll say of sixteen for this one, you're definitely going to want to have the ideas so at one hundred if your subjects are not moving around and shutter speed it's not critical for me during I'm going to leave it with evaluative in with white balance, I'll leave it at auto for focusing I'm definitely going to be in the one shot modes that I could be very particular about where the camera is picking up its focus and locking on to so I'm going to choose a single point and have it lock onto that and with the drive mode a couple of options, if I have a cable release, I might be using the single if I am without a cable release, I would use the two second self timer, which is a great shortcut, and if you want a little bonus in here, you can go at on the mirror lock up mode remember, that will help you out in those slow shutter speeds around a half second and help you get even sharper pictures next up. Let's, try some portrait photography, so in this case, we're not on a tripod were a little bit more concerned about shutter speeds, not only because we're hand holding the camera, but because our subjects air moving around themselves a little bit and we're very particular about where we're focusing. I prefer to be in manual exposure for this, I prefer to have a shutter speed of one hundred twenty fifth or faster to prevent any blurted due to movement. I'm going to want to use a faster aperture depends on the lens that you have if you have a one point four f two lens, you're probably gonna want to use it in that wide open range. If you like that look, which a lot of people do, you're definitely going to want to try to keep your eyes so as low as possible because that is the best quality setting. I'm fine with the value a tip metering, I'm fine with auto white balance most of the time I'm shooting in raw and if you shoot in raw white balance doesn't really matter because you can go in and fix it later. If it does look really wacky, I would go in and change the white balance, but for the most part I just kind of leave it at auto is the default and going change it when and where necessary. One shot allows me to focus on the subject and lock on and then move off to the side for compositional reasons focusing point I'm going to choose a single point and focus on the subjects I and for the drive mode I would actually turn the continuous mode on because people often have good expressions that kind of go from good to bad and you want to be able to fire a burst when things get in the good range next up action photography so doing any sort of sports or subjects that are moving towards you or away from you once again I like to stay in manual for these sorts of things you're going to need a faster shutter speed to stop that action five hundredth is usually the minimum that you're going to want to be a thousandth is often very popular you generally don't need to go up to eight thousands of a second this is where a faster lands like a two point eight lens becomes a big advantage and so if you have a two point eight lands you probably going to want to set it there. I would ideally like to be a tie so one hundred but the reality is with the faster shutter speeds you're probably going to need to set a higher isil four hundred is just a starting point with this camera it's still quite clean as you saw upwards of sixteen hundred and beyond metering going to leave that at evaluative going to leave the white balance at auto. The focusing is probably the most important setting here changing this to a I servo so that the camera can adjust focus as the subject moved moves towards us or away from us it's going to track their movement it's very hard to track subjects movement with just a single point because they're often moving around a little bit erratically sometimes and so using a larger focusing point base is important so either five point nine points or maybe the zone would work it depends on the sports, your angle of view lenses and a lot of other issues and for the drive mode by all means you paid all that money for twelve frames a second I would use it you're able to really pick out the exact instant that you want all right, how about just getting the maximum sharpness foran image this could be for architectural photography this could be for product photography you're working off of a tripod you have a lot of control over the situation for the most part will be working in manual shutter speeds going totally depend on the light that you have available to you the aperture is going to be best in the middle of the range of that particular lands and so for many lenses that's going to be around f eight but this does vary from lens toe lens it's the middle of the apertura rage for the sharpest pictures possible you're going to want to have the lowest eyes so one hundred set not fifty but one hundred that's the native best isil on this camera metering I'm going to be fine with evaluative an auto for focusing I'm going to use the one shot mode and so I can focus and lock on to a particular thing aiken recompose if necessary I might even manually focus as well uh used the single point as well probably the one in the middle because it is just so darn accurate with its double cross type hair is good two f eight focusing and for the drive mode very much like landscape all either use the single with a cable release or I'll use the two second remote and I might just throw my camera into mere lock up too if I met one of those slower shutter speeds all right one last one this is what I call basic photography good way too in the class you don't know what your next picture is going to be how would you set your camera just for general purpose use and this is kind of a good place to leave it just in the camera bag where you don't know what your next subject's going to be so this is where I will use a little bit of automation aperture priority I don't have to worry about setting the shutter speed I'll just set a reasonably fast aperture which will give me a reasonably fast shutter speed and that's going to usually set me up pretty good for most situations I like to have my camera set at I s o one hundred which is the best quality setting and I keep a close eye on the shutter speeds and if I need a little faster shutter speed I will bump the I s o up as necessary be careful about watching that exposure compensation making sure it's at zero and I'm going to be fine once again as you see with evaluative metering and auto white balance with focusing I tend like to leave it in the one shot mode because then that allows me to refocus or to focus and lock in and move the camera around for better composition and I like using just that single point in the middle even though the camera has sixty one focusing points the one in the middle is the best and it's just very practical and easy to use and for the drive mode I generally just leave my camera in the single mode if necessary I can flip it over to continues but most of the time you just want to take one careful shot at a time and so thanks for tuning in and I can say congratulations I think you are now a one d expert if you've been tuning in and paying attention to this you mean a one d x expert yes. Uh oh, that was awesome. Yeah, that was so cool. So much stuff so much so wait, we're stuff of course when one more staff of course okay, so I know that you users are just like super intense you like john that's not enough I need to know more more john mohr ok, so here is your more listed on screen and in the pdf that you get with the download is a bunch of places where I went in to investigate and get more information and they have information in a different way so you can go toe usa cannon site and they have a whole learning center where they have a bunch of two toral's and articles about the camera. They also have a particular spot for learning about the one d x now have included all the important information in this particular class, but there is additional information here and then there is a specific set of videos about setting up the auto focus system on this camera. So if you're like, wow, I want to see everything there is to know about auto focus on this camera there's a whole bunch of videos that you can watch, and then they have a pdf that you can download that is a guidebook on how you can set this up so there's multiple learning ways. Okay, that's not enough. We got more stuff. How about a little pocket guide? Pdf that you can download as well, and then for all you great people over in europe, I found a great sight over at the european cannon site that has a bunch of autofocus information that wasn't at the u s site, or at least presented in a different way. And so all of these are great places. I believe we have links that creative live. At least. I hope we do, because these are not the easiest addresses to type in. But if you want more information about focusing and using different lenses and focusing brackets, and some of the other custom settings I have tried to do is thorough job as I can. But I realized that there's only so much we could do in this class. And so, hopefully, this will help answer any final questions you might have.
John Greengo is an award-winning photographer specializing in outdoor and travel photography. Shooting for over 3 decades, John has developed an unrivaled understanding of the industry, tools, techniques and art of photography. When he's not traveling for a new shoot,
This is a brilliant course. John explains the camera in a very detailled way. Really great. I wished to have a comparison of noise using different ISO settings and just a second later John offered that. Very good work, very helpful. Thank you for that work, John.
a Creativelive Student
If you own a Canon 1DX DSLR you should take this course. John is a master at explaining in easy to understand detail on how to get the most from this camera. I own one and John's course is the icing on the 1DX cake. I appreciate the amount of time and effort that he put into creating this course. I feel we are lucky to have someone so dedicated to create such a detailed presentation on this camera and others like it. Thank you John!
John Greengo, you are a wonderful teacher. I can't say enough on how thorough you are. I truly enjoyed viewing this video and at my own time and pace. Thank you , thank you, thank you. Looking forward to my next class.