Alright so, I had questions as to whether I should include Photo Basic. It's something I have in all of my Fast Art classes, and so we're gonna breeze through this a little bit more quickly. If you know your camera pretty well and you've been in photography for a while, feel free to skip to the next section; we're just gonna cover a few very basic things about cameras here. So this is a single lens reflex camera, which means we have a single lens on the camera. We have different lenses, wide angle lenses, telephoto lenses and in each of the lenses is an aperture unit that you can open and close to control the amount of light coming in the camera. There are lenses that go all the way down to 1. in aperture from Cannon but 1.4 to is a pretty common range that you'll see. 22 allows in the least amount of light and 1.4 is gonna allow in the most amount of light on a lens like this. So beyond controlling the amount of light coming in the lens, it also controls the dept of field. So if you ...
set an aperture of 1.4, you are gonna get relatively shallow depth of field. You can see those red hash marks over on the right hand side indicating the front edge and the back edge of focus. As you stop your aperture down, you get more depth of field. It's not a huge difference from one setting to the next, but it does eventually grow and become pretty significant difference between one end of the spectrum and the other end of the spectrum. So here at f/22 we're getting a lot of depth of field. As light come in, we get to the reflex portion in single lens reflex, which is the mirror and devices with mirrors are often called reflex devices. It bounces the light up to the focusing screen and from there it bounces the light up through a prism system so that you can easily see what your lens is pointed at. When it's time to take a photo, you press the shutter release, the mirror needs to get up and out of the way so that light can get back to the image sensor. But, before it gets there it needs to get past the shutter unit, which has two parts, it's a 1st Curtain and a 2nd Curtain. The 1st curtain is blocking the shutter, or blocking the sensor, excuse me. It opens up, lets light in to the sensor, that's your exposure, and then the 2nd curtain comes in and blocks it off and then the whole thing resets when the mirror comes down. And it uses this system so that each pixel is exposed for exactly the same amount of time. So the shutter unit itself is another way of controlling the amount of light coming in the camera and we have a variety of shutter speeds, from one-eight thousandth of a second down to 30 seconds. And these can be used for either controlling the amount of light, or stopping the action of subjects that are moving, or stopping the movement of you holding the camera. One of the most important things about any camera on the market is the size of the sensor in the camera because that has a great deal to do with the image quality, and how it works, and what size it is, and what sort of lenses and other accessories are gonna work on it. The Cannon 1DX Mark II uses what is commonly known as a full frame sensor, it's the same size as a piece of 35 millimeter film. So for all those photographers that were around during the switchover from film to digital, it was much more convenient just to be able to get all your old lenses and put them on your new digital camera and have them working exactly the same. Other manufacturers and other cameras throughout the Cannon lineup will use smaller size sensors. Oftentimes with special lenses designed especially for those small size lenses and you want to be careful about which lenses you select for this camera; because those smaller ones will not work on the camera. So that's just a few basics. If you want to know more about that sort of stuff, I do have a class called Fundamentals of Photography. It's a five day lecture series with about 24, 27 hours of information on it and so you can check that out at CreativeLive.