All right, time to move over to the whole new section on the five d mark three, which is the new auto focus tap and in here they've started off with case situations, different situations that you are going to be focusing in and this is for continuous movement and so we're going to have a case one through what do we have five or six in here? And each of these specifies a different way that the camera is exactly focusing and you know what? I kind of feel like the cannon engineers at one point they went through all the trouble of figuring out how to make the camera work and people complained about it because it wasn't exactly they were they wanted, so they gave us all the raw ingredients and now we have to go decide how everything works in here and so let me go ahead and bring up all of these. We have six different settings in here and you can go in and you can adjust these because there are three main parameters that these air changing and we're gonna we're gonna have to go somewhat nerd...
y, we're gonna have to go very nerdy and I think we're going to have to go full circle on this one you guys ready for the full article? All right, here we go, all right, now we're ready to go, okay? So when you get into these you're going tohave tracking sensitivity and what we have here is we have the ability of the camera to track a subject and when it's on one subject how quickly does it change to a new subject because sometimes you wanted to stay on the first subject sometimes you wanted to change to the next subject normally this is going to be set it zero kind of in between maybe you want to stay on the home team or maybe you wanna change to whoever is going to win the race and so you could go in and change this one notch to the minus or to not just to the minus so this is how quickly it changes and picks up a new subject that's tracking sensitivity next up is acceleration and deceleration track all right? So let's say a subject is accelerating or decelerating now some subjects are at constant speeds all right and so in that case you would leave it at zero but let's say you're photographing let's say football, soccer, basketball where players are standing still and then all of a sudden they're running two seconds later in those cases where they're changing speed very quickly you would want to set that to maybe plus one or up to even two plus two depending on the sport that you're shooting in how you're shooting it and then we beyond tracking sensitivity which is what subject we had acceleration deceleration and now we have how quickly it switches from point to point not subjects but how quickly the camera will choose a new focusing point and so zero is a gradual get this up on screen so I can see it where is it all right so gradual autofocus switching appoint or you could do it where it switches to a new focusing point very very quickly and so you're going to need to do some testing I can't tell you how to set your camera in this case this too many parameters in here and so let's kind of go back to the main menu setting here and so we can see with different types of sports they have different type of action and you're gonna need to pick the sport that is most similar to this for the general user to start with just go with case one and see how the camera works out that's kind of the simple short term solution and I hope I don't have to go full circle on you again but I'll leave it out just in case make sure you get the right button undone there okay we'll leave that ready to go so that's the auto focus case options and all of those are customizable to the way you want to set him up alright everything in here is auto focus and first up on this one off servo first image priority so servo mode not single mode okay, so we're in the continuous miller that first image what's the priority taking a picture or making sure it's in focus this is where you get to choose it would seem that having it in focus is really important but there are certain people in news organizations that would rather have a slightly out of focus picture that got the right moment and so this is where you can kind of choose between the three options of focus priority release priority or equal priority and I think for most people I would start with equal priority the same thought process can be applied to second image priority here I would probably say that equal priority would be a good place to start within you may need to find tune this as you shoot more sports if you, uh if you're shooting sports and let's just say you shoot cricket never shot cricket but I'm sure it's got its own unique characteristics. What you might want to do is gather around all the cricket photographers who shoot the five d mark three and talk about how your cameras are set because some of you are going to experiment one way that this works great when they're I don't even know right terms to make fun out but I find out from the other photographers what they're setting and make your own changes all right next up what do we have usm lens elektronik manual focus there are a few a very few lenses from canada that have a elektronik li controlled manual focus features some of their very large telephoto lenses and a couple of their very fast lenses and this just specifies the operation of that on and normally I would leave this just turn on. We're not gonna dive into this too far because very few people have those lenses. Auto focus assist beam firing you can leave this on it's fine it's going to help focus what's going to happen is that the autofocus light on the flash is going to turn on it's gonna help you focus under low light situations. The settings I'm giving you are good general settings. I think for everyone personally, I turn this off. Uh, I just don't like lights going out and I'm more than willing to manually focus if necessary. Next up is one shot auto focus released priority all right, when we have our cameras in the one shop mode so I'm just going to shoot one shot the camera. I will not allow me to take a picture until it's in focus and so let me get this out of the movie mode and make sure my camera is in the one shop mode right now and so if I try to take a picture of the table here, it's just won't fire because it can't find the focus and for most things that's fine, because it's going to find the focus and I can shoot directly afterwards. And so I would leave this on the setting that I have here where it's focus priority needs to be in focus to shoot some people don't like it. You can change moving our way well through this autofocus tab next up lens drive when auto focus is impossible this is mainly directed at really long lands users so three hundred to eight and above your super telephoto lenses occasionally, when you're focusing in the camera can't find it, it starts searching all over and your subject goes way out of focus. S o most people, I would leave this on unless you were using super telephoto lenses and the you can experiment. I know there's a lot of bird photographers that want this turned off selectable a half point, you can go in and select less than sixty one points. If you want, you could select on ly the cross type points who when it that be fancy ah, you could select fifteen points or nine points. I would just leave it on all sixty one points. Next up is our auto focus area selection mode hey, this looks familiar remember being here? Deja vu all right, this is where we were earlier selecting they're from focus points if there are some of these modes that you know that you are never going to use you khun unchecked that box and you won't have to see it again auto focus area selection mode. Normally you would press thie some button on the back of the camera, and then you would press the m function in the front to change and cycle through the six different moz if you want to, you could use the dial right next to it to cycle through it, which is not a bad system I kind of like that, but most people kind of like the in function button because it's dedicated for that, and so I would probably leave it at the inn function orientation linked a f points this is awesome in my mind if you end up shooting sports our people for pretty much anything and you're shooting a subject, you're probably going to compose it a little differently when you should've vertically versus horizontally where the person's eye is or where the subject is in frame, the camera will remember whether it's in horizontal or vertical position so in this case, maybe I want someone over to the right hand side, so I select a right hand bracket, but now when I turn the vertical it's up high well, if I can turn this on, I can memorize one of the right hand brackets down here which is actually one of the lower brackets. So in either situation, whether it's, horizontal or vertical, I always have the same area of the camera being focused on and so this is really handy. I kind of like this, but you do have to be aware that it is switching and it's not perfect in all situations. It depends on the type of shooting that you do, but I really like this turn on next up how we select let's. See, what are we doing here? Okay, so we have sixty one focusing points and when you go all the way over to one side and you want to go way back over there, do you have to tab all the way back? We'll know you could just keep going this direction it goes, it bends time and space goes into a wormhole and you come out the other side. I should have the nerd glasses on for that and I would leave this turn on it's just the easier way to go and scroll through and find all you're focusing points very quickly. This next one goes in and allows you to select different ways that the focusing points in brackets can be seen on screen for instance, the second setting we'll show you all sixty one focusing points all the time that's a little bit cluttered in my mind the other ones will allow you to see them either before your auto focusing or as you are auto focusing and it's just very subtle nuances as to win you see the box and exactly the way the box looks and so I would normally just leave it on the top setting here I did talk to somebody the other day who was having frustrations with your new five five d mark three because when she was in the continuous mode, the cameras brackets would not light up and read when you got in focus and the camera won't do that the camera's brackets will light up and read when you're in one shot, but if you're in the continuous focusing mode, they will turn black on you but not red and so be aware that there's not as much visual information that the camera has achieved focus you find her display illumination, I would leave this on auto this is that red frame that I just talked about what'll happen is under very bright conditions the red won't come on because you can't see it very well it'll just have a black frame under lower light levels the red frame will come on and I'm fine with it some people don't like it, you can turn it off all right a f micro adjustment all right totally nerdy thing here uh the lenses that you have and the camera come tested and they meet a very very tight rigid standard of what's acceptable but occasionally a lens is still within acceptable range but it's kind of leaning one direction and a camera is leaning the other direction in the two match up and everything centres off just perfectly but sometimes they're both kind of leaning one direction and when I say leaning one direction what I mean is that it's kind of front focusing a little bit and the bodies causing it to front focus a little bit and all of a sudden you focus on the person's eye and the tip of their eyelashes and focus and not their eye and so you're having a front focus issue at that point where if you focus on their eye and their ear is in focus that's a back focus issue traditionally we'd have to send our cameras back to cannon have them fix it we have sent our camera and all of our lens is back and now they've allowed us to go in and test our cameras and fix them ourselves and so I recommend doing this especially if you have l lenses and you really want to get the sharpest critical pictures possible but it does require testing and I'm not going to go into the full test here but you need to chess test the sharpness and different distances with all your different lenses. The camera will then recognize what lenses on the camera, and it will fix that front or back focusing. But it does require a little bit of testing on that. I apologize. We don't have time to go into that. That in itself, is another two hour class.