Well, we are on the back of the camera and let's just talk about what we see on the back the camera well the menu section well that's the whole second half this class and so we're gonna kind of pass by that button right now uh we do have an information button and if you want to go ahead and press that button on your camera you will pull up three different screens on dh I am going to actually talk mohr about the main information the quick menu screen here in a little bit but you can also see that it pulls up a uh I want to call it a horizon level as well assume just general setting information about your camera and as we get into plain images back if you want to seymour information about an image you can hit that info button in order to do that working away around the left hand side this new top button is kind of a new button does a multitude of things so first off it changes your picture styles if you shoot in raw this doesn't matter if you shoot in j peg this does matter and you can h...
ave your pictures process because when you shoot j pegs the camera since every picture through a processing which adjust the contrast the color tone, the saturation and the sharpness of the images and you can kind of dictate what style of pictures you're going to get? So for instance, we have portrait landscape monochrome, so we have all sorts of funky things in here, we have three different customizable ones that you could create yourself, so once you are in this picture mode, make ahead pressing on my camera. Once you enter there, you can hit the info button to go in and set details about that particular setting so you could take the portrait mode and you could customize it to your own own portrait mode. You could go make your own settings for this, and once again, if you shoot raw, which away a lot of people are going to shoot this camera, this doesn't matter at all, okay? Uh, and generally, I think doing this sort of stuff in camera isn't the best way of doing it. I think it's much better to shoot it straight and do it in the computer later, where you have more control over it and better visuals to see what you're doing to your image. And so for most people, I would leave this at standard, I think that's a good, safe generic setting you may need to tweak your image is a little bit, uh, if you don't want to do any tweaking with the camera, all you might want to leave it in auto all right, so that's the first of five things that this button does the second thing is, is that when you do press the button, you have the options of picture styles, multiple exposures or h d r and so you can shoot multiple exposures in these cameras in hd are, and I'm going to talk about those more in a little bit. I actually have some examples that I went out and shot shot some stuff with now the blue settings you'll notice on the back of the camera there's a bunch of buttons that aaron blew in general with canon cameras. Anything in blue has to do with playback, so most of the buttons on the left hand side are dealing with things that happened during playback. One of the things that you could do with this camera that you haven't been able to do with canon cameras previously is if you play back an image, there's our play button down their lips, there it is down there, you can hit that picture style button and you can go into a two image display you khun, then scroll through images and compare images side by side. Now you're gonna have a blue frame around one of the images. To switch which picture you're looking at the left or the right you'll hit the cue button excuse me the set button I'm sorry the set button and you can switch back and forth and then you can scroll images now you can zoom in using the magnified button and you'll be able to compare sharpness in two separate images. You could also compare sharpness in one image in different areas so there's a lot of different ways that you can go back and forth comparing two images and cropping in and viewing different sections of that image. Now this camera can also print directly from the camera, which I think is kind of ridiculous I yet to meet somebody who was actually done it with any of the candid five cameras, but if you were gonna hook the camera to a printer, you can plug it in, you'll go to this button and then you can read the ten pages in the instruction manual because I'm not going to go into that alright, completing the left hand side of the camera we have the play but we have the zoom button, so when you play back an image, you can hit the magnified button and then you will use thie main dial on your camera to zoom in and zoom out they have changed this from the previous camera and I am trying to get used to it it's frustrating because I'm used to doing it all with my right thumb, which is where it used to be on the camera and now they moved it over to the left, but they have given us some more options that we'll talk about in the menu system, but you can zoom in and then you can use the little joystick. We'll talk about the multidirectional controller joystick thing a little bit later, but you consume around and you can check sharpness areas within a photograph by zooming in. And just above that, we have the rate button. We can now rate our pictures from one to five stars, and so if you're like me, every picture you take, you spend a couple of minutes to go rate all of your images. Five stars just kidding. Um, every once in a while, you'll know that you have a really good one, that that could be a way of putting a little annotation on that particular shot and what's nice is that will that will get passed down to programs like adobe light room so that you could have your images start rated, which is, I think, a great way of organizing images once you get into the editing, but I wouldn't waste valuable time in the field doing that. And then of course we have the garbage button down at the bottom quick, easy way to get rid of images if you need to in the field and cannon has finally added a new customizable feature in the garbage button, which I really like because one of the things that I don't like about the standard set up is if I look at an image and I go out well that's garbage I hit the garbage can once and then it asked me to confirm it by dialling over and hitting another button, so I actually have to hit three buttons to confirm that I want something deleted and we can reduce that to to button presses with a custom setting in the menu that I'm going to recommend in the second half the class all right down below that we have our little speakers so when you're playing movies back that's for the sound is coming from we have a light sensor which is detecting light on the back side of the camera and I am not a big fan of this because what happens is that it's adjusting the brightness of the lcd on the back of the camera and I like a consistent brightness in my screen back here because I'm judging exposure by it when I'm using live you and so we can actually turn this off in the menu system as well, all right, we have a removable rubber I cup on this. Take it off by just kind of squeezing the sides. After a long, hard year or two of us, you might need to replace it. It's going to sell for about twenty bucks. Uh, but it is replaceable. Next up, what we have there we go. Uh, kind of hidden up in the corner around there is your diop ter. This is the focusing of your viewfinder has nothing to do with actually focusing the camera. But when you look through the viewfinder, you want to make sure that the numbers at the bottom of the screen are nice and clear. If they're not, you want to adjust the dye, opt er so that you can see those numbers nice and clear. That means you are focusing on the focusing screen is in focus. All right. We have our new live view movie switch. All right, this is adopted from the seven d camera. We have a rotating collar and a button. Normally, I would say that your camera's probably gonna have the rotating collar in the camera mode. So in that way, you are normally taking still pictures. And if you want to go into live you, you would hit the button in the back of the camera. If you want to shoot movies, you're going to rotate the collar to the red movie mode. And this really changes the way the camera operates. So let's, talk about live you and movie mode. They're related, but slightly different. So if you want to hit live you right now you can hit the button on the back of the camera. The mere is gonna pop up, and you were going to see what the camera is looking at, uh, it's, very similar. Going into the movie mode, the camera operates very similar. The difference is, is that you rotate the caller off to the side and the center, but then becomes the start and stop function for shooting video. The biggest thing that changes when you get into this mode is focusing is not the normal system. We're not using the fifty one focusing points we have yet to talk about. We have a contrast detect autofocus system on dso. In this we have three options. We have live mode, we have the face detect live mode, and we have a quick mode. All three of these modes are somewhat poor, inadequate ways of focusing, in my opinion. A fourth way of focusing is manually by just turning your lands tim manual focus and this camera is going to be used to make hollywood movies. People are going to make documentaries they're going to film with it and pretty much every major video production with this I'll go all the way every major video production with this is going to shoot with this in manual you can auto focus it's slow it very, very slow and it's not as accurate as a traditional focusing system in a camcorder we're not going to get into the wise of it I'm just going to let you know it's not great there's nothing wrong with the camera basically all dslr is have a very similar problem we have three options live mode face detect mode which looks for faces and will choose the face that is closest to the camera and then we have a quick mode which actually drops the mere back down uses the traditional focusing system that you would normally used by looking through the camera the problem is is that you can't see what's going on through the camera as it's going through this whole rigmarole of moving around and so while I don't like it I think the live mode is the best mode of the three modes and so that's where I leave my camera set if you do want to get into shooting video your camera might end up looking something like this you're going to have a whole rig system that's going to have different view finder set up you're gonna have places to mount lights and microphones you're going to need extra batteries and all sorts of stuff and so if you really want to shoot great video with this, you can shoot fantastic video, but you're going to need a few accessories probably the first accessory that would be helpful tohave because you can't hold the camera in a comfortable way is to get one of these is a kyoto z finders these self around four hundred bucks they allow you to see the find her on the back of the camera nice and clearly so that you can focus and frame and hold the camera nice and steady up to your eye then you can look at the huge collection of rigs that they have out there and there's different types of rig's different size of rigs it all depends on what you're doing shooting the camera and video does go into a whole different realm. We do have a number of menu settings for tweaking the camera for shooting video that we're going to go into, but we're not going to go into it full bar uh so I do want to have a few of the little notes on shooting video and it is shooting dot movie files, which is a pretty common file format these days, so it's going to work in a lot of different enter editor's work on a lot of people's computers just straight away the maximum final size that you record is a four gigabyte file. Now, as soon as you fill a four gigabyte file, it'll immediately start a new four gigabyte file which is very nice so that you can shoot essentially seamlessly through larger size cards. Now the camera is held to a technical limitation of twenty nine minutes, fifty nine seconds and it's not because there's a technical problem is that there's an import fee. When you get to thirty minutes, it becomes a camcorder and it's got new tariffs and it price goes up on it, so they're limiting it to twenty nine minutes and fifty nine seconds and oh, boy, here we go. All right, we're gonna have to go for it. So we're gonna have to get a little nerdy here because we're gonna get a little technical and I'm sorry, but you know there's some people who are totally into the video thing here and cannon has decided to get very technical on this when you shoot video on this, okay, you're not shooting raw, all right, you were shooting into a dot movie file, but there are a couple different ways of shooting into a dot movie file. We have two different compression rates the cannon five d mark too. I was using a great that was very similar to what's called I p b, which is a relatively small file well because we have a lot of video usage with this people want the best quality video possible they have a slightly different compression rate called all I produces a file that's about three times as large and what it's doing is it's compressing each frame individually rather than compressing groups of frame and let me check my notes here uh a four gigabyte file will a four gigabyte card excuse me we'll record about five minutes in all I ittle record sixteen minutes in I pdb so once again it's about three times as large when it gets to that and let me say that if you are using uh if you are going to be shooting in all I kind of there's going to be some questions on the internet what video moat should I shoot it if you're shooting casual video I would go with it if you were going to be using a professional editor that needs critical cut points in editing features then you're going to want to go with the all I format if you're maybe a wedding shooter and you're doing a little bit of both well it kind of depends that what level you are I would probably recommend shooting some video tests to see which one works best for your system you will eat up a lot of memory cards though when you go through that and you will need faster memory cards as well okay we'll come back to these, I have a feeling we're going to leave him out because we're gonna come back to him. All right, next up, we have resolution rates, we have full hd nineteen twenty by ten eighty we have h d, which is twelve, eighty by seven twenty, and then we have a smaller youtube size. If you want to record really small sizes, we have a number of different frame rates that you can choose not all frame rates are available, with all resolutions not going to go into all the details, but there's also pal settings and nts settings, according to what country we're in in the video system you're using and what type of tv's they're going to play back on. I can't stress this enough focus ahead of time and then make your shot and then focus for the next shot and then shoot that shot s o a lot of people manual focus ahead of time, and they're not changing focus while they're actually shooting or they're actually pulling focus and adjusting it manually, and they have to practice this to get it right in the shot. That's how the professionals do it, and once again, this is a professional still camera that's what its mane point is it's the main thing it does? And so, while you are shooting a video, you can shoot a still photograph it any time you want. So the video of me running out of the car shooting in the rain I ended up with four files, one video file, three still pictures and you can shoot those three pictures as raw or j peg whatever way you have, your camera set up is how it will shoot that picture. So that's a bit on the movie mode. We're gonna come back to that and talk more about it when we get to that section in the menu continuing our two around the back of the camera, we have an auto focus on button. Now this is doubling what the shutter release is doing. When you press halfway down, it is focusing. You can use the back button or you can use the front button. Where the back button really becomes handy is when you disengage the feature on the front button. This allows you to do back button focusing and that way, when you take a picture, your camera's not constantly refocusing, this becomes very helpful. When you are shooting a portrait, you focus on them with the back button, but then you move them off to the side. And you take a serious of shots and you don't have to keep half way down and you don't have to keep any fingers halfway down because you focused once it's locked there and so it's a feature that I recommend for intermediate and advanced level shooters it took me a while to kind of get adjusted two shooting in that manner but now that I've done it for a while I like it a lot and gotta have it on my camera next to that we have our auto exposure lot if I put my camera in the programme mode and I point it over here at this camera I get f for the thirtieth of a second but when I pointed over here I'm getting a fiftieth in a sixteenth of a second because it's different light over here than over here normally the camera is gonna adjust exposure wherever you point it if however you want to lock it in what you will do is he will press this button in and you don't have to leave it held it automatically locks in for a period of time it will eventually reset but I said I waited too long now so I'm gonna go back in the locket and over here now I'm going to come over here and shoot the picture and it locked the shutter speed and aperture that I had chosen over here over here and so if you have probably the most practical situation I can think of is if you're shooting a sunset you point the camera at the sun setting while the camera's gonna freak out there's a bright light in it and so what you do is you pointed a little away from the sun you check the minute you get the meter reading their lock it in, bring the sun back into the picture and then take the picture and so that's a more effective way of doing that type of shot this that button will not be used if you were in manual exposure it's only if you're in one of the auto exposure mounts that's the name okay, I'm thinking about the nerd glasses for this one yeah let's do it. Okay, so now we're gonna get into the focusing points and this is where it's got a lot more difficult or at least a lot more sophisticated. So uh uh we're going to dive into our cameras and we're gonna do a little menu setting change first, so just kind of follow where is it? Bring it in here, follow these the steps hit the menu button and you're gonna use the main dial dial over to auto focus we're gonna go into this more later, but I want you to go to the fourth little purple square and go down to something called select auto focus area selection mode and make sure all of your options are checked off all right, so this is the screen that you're going to get going there check all of these off one of my styles that I like setting my camera because I like having all the options on at least to start with as you get to know your camera, you can turn him off if you know you never use them. All right? So we're basically allowing our camera two use six different ways to focusing noted everyone in class get that set up ok, hopefully all right, so now we're going to go in and talk about this new sophisticated focusing system. All right, we have six different focusing systems in this camera spot single point expansion with five with nine we have a zone system, which is very similar to the nine point, and then we have all sixty one points in the auto focus system. Now, the way that you change from one system to another is we're going to start by pressing the thumb button on the back of the camera that has the little points by it, then we're going to press the em function button up by the shutter release and that is going to change us through those different modes now you will probably need to hold the camera up to your eye and change these mouths and you can cycle through and get a feel for all these mode. So let me talk about these different modes as we go through them. So first off we have spot a f this is a very, very tiny little area in the middle and we have a very similar mode, actually, where is it? I'm a I'm a step ahead of my my keynote here, all right? And so this spot a f mode is if you want a very pinpoint area in the middle. Now it is a very, very a small area and they have a slightly larger one, but it's still a single point, and so the single point is a good general purpose. One the problem with spot a f is that it is so tiny there may not be any contrast in that particular area you pointed at someone's cheek. If they have smooth skin, there may be no contrast for it to focus. Eso spot out a spot single point. Excuse me is better in most situations. In my opinion, the ones that were using larger groups on are going to be good for subjects that are moving for sports, photography and action photography. So we have a five point system where it starts with one point in the middle, and then it looks to the nearby neighboring, up, down, left and right points very similar related to that is a nine point system, which brings in a total of nine points. This is my favorite one for shooting sports now which one to choose when shooting sports depends a little bit on what sport you're shooting? What angle you're shooting, what lens you're shooting, what type of shot you're getting so I can't give you exact specifics on it, so you'll have to experiment a little bit with the five, the nine and the zone focusing zone focusing looks very similar to the nine point, but when you get off to the side's it's actually using a larger area, get over to his own there, and so zone will use up to twelve points when you activate that and you move off to the side and you'll have, I think, one, two, three, four, you have nine different areas, so basically you can put it in the middle left, right up and down, as well as combinations of all of those. And then finally we have the sixty one point area, and the way this works is you kind of start with one initial area, one initial point, and then it looks too, all sixty one where that subject may move to, and so if you really had no idea what you were doing, then the sixty one point would be uh potentially good for that because what it's going to do is it's just going to kind of choose wherever you started at and then follow it as it moves around the frame now some of these points can be adjusted so you can adjust where the starting point iss and so you're going to use that little joystick uh multi directional controller to move that point around, up, down and to the left and so that is the focusing system in this camera which they have thrown a lot in and there's gonna be a ton more that we can adjust when we get into the menu system in general if I had to simplify things non geek talk I'd go a single point for basic photography and I would use nine point for action photography customize as necessary so a lot going on in the focus area alright, we still have a lot of stuff in the back of the camera what do we have? All right, so I forget the name of this from time to time it's called the multi controller and I typically call it the joystick because it's kind of little up down left right you can go multi directional and it's a great way for selecting focusing points and it's a great way for navigating through the menu system on the camera when you want to go up down, make a change and so forth and it's also a button that you compress in two, as well as a directional control. So the little cube button below that brings up the quick menu. We're going to dive into the full menu later on in this class, and what they've done is they have taken all the most important settings, and they put it into the quick menu so that you don't have to dive rummaging through the whole menu system to find some of the most important things that you want to change. Now you can also access this screen by pressing the info button, and so if you want to leave it on for a longer period of time, you could go to the info button and then hit the cue button as well. So there's a couple different ways to access this, and that allows you to see what settings you have on your camera. I've also found this really handy when you have your camera set up on a tripod kind of high and you can't see the top lcd on the camera. Now you can see all the controls and you could go in and make any change you want by using the multidirectional controller and scrolling around and making changes in there our quick controlled ion while we've been kind of introduced to that quite a while ago on the back of the camera we have our set button any time we want to make a change. This is kind of the equivalent of the enter button on a keyboard and then new and unique to the five d mark three is thie silent touch pad and this is for people shooting video who want to control the audio recording levels without the little cliques because he's it's a very quiet but it's much quieter than in previous cameras, but it still has a little click to it, and inside were that and a little canyon is little crevice in there that's a touch pad and so you could actually control the sound recording levels by tapping that back and forth just below that collection of buttons and dials is the card light when this light is on your camera is writing information to the memory card very important not to take the memory card out of the camera at that period of time. It probably won't hurt, but I wouldn't recommend turning the camera on and off while that light is on, it just means the camera's working let it be then we have a old I'il lock now if you happen to have fumble fingers and you turn this back dial a little too freely that might be changing your aperture or your exposure compensation and some people I don't like bumping that, and so that you can lock that over. The dial's still physically turns, but it's elektronik lee not making any changes on the camera. And so you can use that. Use that switch or not, depending on how often you bump that accidentally and your your settings change on you.
John Greengo is an award-winning photographer specializing in outdoor and travel photography. Shooting for over 3 decades, John has developed an unrivaled understanding of the industry, tools, techniques and art of photography. When he's not traveling for a new shoot,
I really enjoy any John Greengo class - beside being an incredible photographer, he has the true nature of a teacher. What a combo: a fantastic photographer with a great sense of humor who can really explain complex concepts and take the fear out of all of those buttons and dials! I LOVE his 'tests' and visual challenges: the immediate results help to cement the information. I have had my Canon Mark D III for almost a year now. The time I spent experimenting with it and reading most of the manual (ok, maybe I am a nerd!) was great preparation for this class as I knew exactly the things that were confusing me. And, as usual, Mr. Greengo delivered. So glad I purchased the course so I can review it many times. Only two disappointments: unless I missed it, it wasn't made clear how to switch from one card to the other. I was in Scotland and my screen kept flashing, "card is full" - and I couldn't figure out how to switch to the other one; and I did want to fill in the copyright/name information but can't figure out how to 'type' in anything. Class is a must for a new owner of this camera.
Wonderful, wonderful instruction! I wish every instructor could be as point-on as John Greengo. I had my money's worth about a quarter of the way through the class. At the end, I called it priceless. I have had my 5D Mark iii for almost 2 years, and John taught me some extremely useful things about the camera I did not know. Even if you are an advanced shooter with considerable 5DMiii experience, you are likely to get something valuable from this course - otherwise, you are CERTAIN to get really valuable knowledge about your camera. Strongly recommended for Canon 5D Mark iii owners.
LOVE, LOVE, LOVE John's classes. Bought the 70D class for my first camera, now the 5D Mark III class, so worth it. Awesome investment!