2. Photography Basics
Introduction & Product Overview15:14 2
Photography Basics06:47 3
Button Layout: Top Deck46:23 4
Button Layout: Back Side25:37 5
Button Layout: Other Sides11:41 6
Display System09:48 8
Autofocus Menu12:55 10
Playback Menu05:03 11
Setup Menu08:30 12
Custom Functions & My Menu13:18 13
Camera Operation21:26 14
Update Video: Canon® 5DS/ 5DSR53:41
We're gonna go in and do some photography basics. I know you people know shutter speeds and temperatures but there's a few out there that we need to bring up to speed. So this is a little five minute clip you might say from my class called fundamentals of digital photography this is where I do go in and explain all about shutter speeds, apertures, esos camera settings, light composition, aesthetics, etcetera, etcetera and this is a class that is downloadable from creative life for anyone who wants to learn how to operate their camera mauritz not specifically about the cannon mark three or canon cameras it's, just general photography and things that you should know about are things. The fact, like you have a digital single lens reflex camera and what's great about these cameras is that you have a very high quality lens on your camera that you get to not only see through but take pictures up and we have different lenses that are wide angle telephoto or maybe they zoom back and forth when...
you're focusing lens lens elements are moving back and forth to focus the light on the sensor and within the lens is a aperture also known as an iris that opens and closes, and this is to help let in more light or less light one of the three different ways we have a controlling light so if we take a look at it from a different angle of view you might say we could look into this lens which has an f stop range of one point forward f twenty two and a cz we closed the aperture down we're letting in less light by a factor of two actually and as we open up we're letting in twice a cz much light with each of these f stop settees and if you really want to work your camera well you should no you're f stops they should all be memorized forwards and backwards so we're open up the lens to its widest opening setting at one point four here so not only does that control the amount of light coming in the lens it controls your depth the field what's in focus and what's out of focus and so here you can see a lens shot wide open at one point for those little round red hash marks over on the side that indicates the front edge in the back edge of the focus you can see is we change the aperture down we're getting more and more depth of field it's not a huge difference from one setting to the next but it does get greater and greater until we get to f twenty two on this lens which gives us the greatest depth of field so this here the types of things that all photographers should know forwards and backwards so that's what's happening in just the lens now light finally comes into the camera body, where, under normal circumstances it hits the mere, which is bouncing the light upwards so that you can see what's going on. Now that mere is reflecting the light, and this is the reflex portion in single lens reflex. The images then focused onto the focusing screen, and I'm betting some of you might remember using older cameras like a twin lands or an old hasselblad with a waist level finder. Well, that's what's going on in your camera, but in order to see things, light is bounced up through a prism system so that you could more easily hold the camera and point the camera at your subject. Now, when you take a picture that mere needs to get up and out of the way, obviously, so light can come on back to the image sensor, and the image sensor is a huge deal in digital cameras, and we'll talk a little bit about that in a moment. But before, like gets back to that sensor, light needs to go through the shutter unit, which is a two part unit. There is a first curtain and second curtain, so the first curtain will drop away that will allow light in. For the exposure, and then the second curtain will come down and block the light off, and then the whole unit will reset back to its starting position so that you can see through the lens again. Now the shutter speed is obviously very important because that's stopping time and we get to choose what sort of time we want to stop images. That and this says a great impact on different types of photography, so very fast and very fast shutter speed. Excuse me are great for subjects that are moving very fast that we want to freeze the motion. So two thousandth of a second freezing a bird in flight ah, good cheddar speed for stopping human action like sports dancing. Things like that would be one five hundredth of a second. A more pedestrian shutter speed around one hundred twenty fifth is kind of an intermediate shutter speed, you might say, and as we start getting down into the slower shutter, speeds were likely to get blurry. There's, good blur and there is bad blur. I kind of like this blair here with slower shutter speeds with things that are moving fast and so just people walking, they're going to be blurry at an eighth of a second camera in this case is on a tripod, you can tell because the bridge is nice and sharp it's a lot of fun for landscape photographers using slow shutter speeds and water movie so half second exposure with a wave crashing over the rocks on the beach and this camera is very good under low light, so feel free to shoot your camera at nighttime under moonlight with thirty second exposures you could do some very fun type of photography with long exposures and so knowledge of your shutter speed is also very important you need to know those forwards and backwards so getting back to that sensor that is all important in the camera the full frame sensor in the five demark too is one of the largest size is that you're going to see and most cameras there's a lot of other cameras in the market and most of them are using sensors that are a little bit smaller or a lot smaller and so point and shoot cameras he was very tiny sensors the one the cameras with interchangeable lenses are typically using much larger sensors and of the three common fairly large sizes this is using the largest of them. It is based directly off of thirty five millimeter film it's the same height it's the same whip and it was very, very convenient for everyone switching from film to digital because all their lenses worked exactly as they always did. The problem with this type of sensor is that it's, somewhat expensive just causes the price of the camera to be somewhat pricey. It has a crop factor of one point o, which is another way of saying it's the same size as thirty five millimeter film. Now, in order to make less expensive cameras, other companies have made smaller sensors so they might have a crop factor of one point. Five. And even on some of cannons cameras, they have made a smaller sensor to make amore affordable camera. And so some of their other cameras have a one point, six crop factor. And they use kind of a different set of lenses that overlap to some degree. And we will talk more about lenses and how they match up with sensors when we talk about lenses in particular.
Ratings and Reviews
a Creativelive Student
I really enjoy any John Greengo class - beside being an incredible photographer, he has the true nature of a teacher. What a combo: a fantastic photographer with a great sense of humor who can really explain complex concepts and take the fear out of all of those buttons and dials! I LOVE his 'tests' and visual challenges: the immediate results help to cement the information. I have had my Canon Mark D III for almost a year now. The time I spent experimenting with it and reading most of the manual (ok, maybe I am a nerd!) was great preparation for this class as I knew exactly the things that were confusing me. And, as usual, Mr. Greengo delivered. So glad I purchased the course so I can review it many times. Only two disappointments: unless I missed it, it wasn't made clear how to switch from one card to the other. I was in Scotland and my screen kept flashing, "card is full" - and I couldn't figure out how to switch to the other one; and I did want to fill in the copyright/name information but can't figure out how to 'type' in anything. Class is a must for a new owner of this camera.
Wonderful, wonderful instruction! I wish every instructor could be as point-on as John Greengo. I had my money's worth about a quarter of the way through the class. At the end, I called it priceless. I have had my 5D Mark iii for almost 2 years, and John taught me some extremely useful things about the camera I did not know. Even if you are an advanced shooter with considerable 5DMiii experience, you are likely to get something valuable from this course - otherwise, you are CERTAIN to get really valuable knowledge about your camera. Strongly recommended for Canon 5D Mark iii owners.
LOVE, LOVE, LOVE John's classes. Bought the 70D class for my first camera, now the 5D Mark III class, so worth it. Awesome investment!