Update Video: Canon® 5DS/ 5DSR
Update Video: Canon® 5DS/ 5DSR
14. Update Video: Canon® 5DS/ 5DSR
Introduction & Product Overview15:14 2
Photography Basics06:47 3
Button Layout: Top Deck46:23 4
Button Layout: Back Side25:37 5
Button Layout: Other Sides11:41 6
Display System09:48 8
Autofocus Menu12:55 10
Playback Menu05:03 11
Setup Menu08:30 12
Custom Functions & My Menu13:18 13
Camera Operation21:26 14
Update Video: Canon® 5DS/ 5DSR53:41
Update Video: Canon® 5DS/ 5DSR
Hello, everyone. John here, this is a update class for those of you who owned the five gs or the five gs are now the five the mark three came out well a few years ago. Now at this point and now they brought out the new five gs are and they have it in the same body. It's got all the same buttons on it and it's got pretty much all the exact same features is a five d mark three plus a few more. And so we wanted to put this update video in with the class package so that you could update yourself a ce faras all the new features and the functions of the camera. So in this class here, what we're going to be doing is going through the new features of the five g s r on five gs, which are essentially the same, but we will talk more about so let's. Go ahead and get rolling into this class and take a look at the differences beyond just the fifty mega pixel new sensor in this camera. So first off five the mark three came out in two thousand twelve and now two thousand fifteen we have the d s and th...
e dsr with their new fifty mega pixel sensor on there. So beyond that there is a slight difference in the s and the s are in that gsr has the anti alias seen filter acts with the a stands for has been not necessarily taken off but it's been negated we're not going to get into the details of it because it has no effect on the actual operation of the camera and so they have an anti a leasing filter in there but then they correct for it enable teo which should enable you to get a little bit sharper photos wind shooting with the s r but with a potential problem of a marais problem which you might encounter and shooting for instance a fine fabric that has a very tight leave to it and so nature photographers are tending to want to go for the s are people who do a lot of work in the studio with fabrics and so forth would probably be more interested in the s now in order to handle all this massive data from a fifty mega pixel sensor the processor has been upgraded again from the five de mar victory but once again you're not going to notice much difference in the operation of the camera the maximum I s o has been restricted on these new cameras because of the very, very small pixel size greater noise at higher iso's they know that the folks who used these air probably not going to using them on really high I esso and so they have limit those two amore standard twelve thousand eight hundred more real world setting. You might say the frames per second because of all the data has been slowed down a little bit. So the amount of shots you can get any sort of burst is going to be slow down just a smidge in there from six down to five. The meeting system has been improved on it. Personally, I found the sixty three segment metering system extremely good, but now they have up to to one hundred fifty thousand pixels that it's working with so you can expect a little bit more accuracy on them eatery they have changed the output of the camera. It is less designed for people shooting video and wanting un compressed hd my output straight out of the camera. And so we do not have that option. So if you're shooting a lot of video, the new d s and s are probably not the best choices in the world for that and, uh, that's, just one of the small differences in the physical characteristics of the camera. Another little aspect is that because they wanted to have a higher speed output on the camera, they put a newport on here, which we'll talk more about in just a moment, they have taken off the headphone jack so it's impossible to monitor the sound with headphones from this camera and so once again, downsides for people shooting video. But the upside for people shooting the stills is all the more megapixels, and this is just kind of part of the price that you pay for getting all those megapixels and then the usb connection on it. They have upped it to the new three point oh standards so that if you do want to download from the camera, you're able to download those images a little bit more quickly now. When the camera first came out, it seemed like all the talk was was that it was a five day mark three with fifty mega pixel sensor, and they kind of glossed over the fact that cannon has gone in and added a lot of new features to the camera and that's what I wanted to go through and explain what they were and how to use them in this video. So that's, what we're going to spend most of our time is going through all these different features, which is really just kind of brought their camera up to the latest greatest standards that they have in any of their cameras. So let's, go through the cameras and compare it five d mark three versus the new d, s and s r so the front it's gonna look pretty much the same? They did have a stronger chassis put on it on the bottom of the camera, you can actually see their arm or screws in the bottom of it, where they've put in mohr I'm assuming stronger medals to hold it it's firm and steady when you do have it on a tripod on the top of the camera is you can physically see the layout is exactly the same. The buttons are the same there's no real difference at all. The only difference they're going to notice is that when you go into the so to make changes, the new camera will not have quite a white arrange because it's limited to twelve thousand eight hundred looking on the back side of the camera, you'll see that they once again looked the same. The buttons are all in the same the on ly riel physical difference aiken spot is in the mlle odile, you'll notice the textured pattern in the upper left of that mlle odile has changed ever so slightly. Looks like they put the mod ill from the seventy mark to on this cameron, we'll talk more about that one in just a moment now one difference you will notice is that if you cycle through the info display screens remember you compress info anytime, never does any harm, and if you do it with the new camera, there is a new option that you'll get teo and it's, the screen that you see here and what you're able to use. Your able to use thie multi controller to scroll through different sets of information. Down along the bottom, you'll see there's a scroll bar, and if you go up and down, you'll be able to see various sets of information about the image that you just took. And the nice thing is, is that you can leave it on the one that you find most useful and that's the one you're going to view on a regular basis. But if you need to change it, it's, a very, very quick and easy change away. Another changes in the quick control menu. One of the things that they've done differently on the new camera is that they have allowed you to go in and customize what is on this screen and where it's on the screen and I will be showing. You how to do that when we get into the menu system, but this is kind of cool because there was a lot of things or at least some things in the previous one I never used, and I knew it was taking up space, and I could have found something more valuable to put there. And so the new customizable quick control screen, I think, is a very nice addition, and I'll be showing you exactly how to do that. Now, in the viewfinder of this camera, they have put in an entirely new focusing screen that shows you heads up style display on it. So there is a number of bits of information that you can see as an active setting on your camera as to where it is set at or you can only look at it, or you can choose to look at it when you are changing the feature, and what this will do is normally when you're shooting with this camera, you'll be holding it up and then if you want to make a change, say with the focusing or the I s o, you would hold it down, press the button, looking at the top of the screen, will now what you could do is you can keep the camera held up to your I press the button, see the information right there. In the viewfinder make the changes with the dial without even taking the camera away from your eye and in some ways to me I have a number of cam have sl lars and I have muralists and one of the things that's nice about muralist cameras is that you take him away from your eye less often because you can do more things in the viewfinder and I think kanan is adding this in there to kind of fight that whole muralist tran and having more information and they're just makes it easier to work with, so I think this is a great edition and it's really nice because it is very customizable and I will be showing you how to customize it as well. All right over on the side of the camera, we mentioned that the ports are a little different on the camera, so the left side of the ports between the old and the new are exactly the same. They moved the hd my port up a little bit over on the right hand side and then they've added in their new did usb three point oh, terminal on the bottom. So if you are tethered to a computer, if you're just downloading straight from the camera, you're going to get the fastest output of the camera possible, but because of this they didn't have room for the mike jack or their old style usb jack and so it's a little different interface on the side of it not quite as good for the video user but much better for the studio photographer definitely all right, so what we're going to do for the rest of this little section is going to be going through the menu section of the camera going through and looking at just the differences between what's new and what do you need to understand about the d, s r and d s so first off image quality in the camera is been raised up to fifty megapixels, so the options that you see for the raw file sizes are going to be a little bit different they've also added in additional smaller j peg sizes so that you can shoot in any specific size that you want and so very minor difference that you're going to see hear and this is one area where suddenly I am starting to question about whether I should shoot large raw for everything I d'oh one of the tests that I ran I don't have examples here but I wanted to run through on this camera was with the five d mark three and the new dsr but the dsr having it set on medium raw size and in a medium raw you're getting a twenty eight megapixel image versus when he was twenty two megapixels of the five d mark three and you are getting a higher quality image from the new camera at medium raw, then you were with the older camera at large, raw and so the way that I'm thinking I'm going to be using my new camera is in medium raw for a lot of the base picked up and then when I know it's a really good shot or I need that extra megapixels, throw it into the full raw and it's kind of the turbo boost in the camera for it, but a lot of different options depending on how you shoot it once again as we go through the menu settings, the recommendations are in gray for kind of your average user, but for your hiring more advanced user and they have those in red and most of you are probably going to want to have that in raw to get advantage of those fifty mega pixels. Now, as we look down on this first page in the camera settings menu, the mere lock up is no longer there. It used to be there in the five day mark three, and it has been moved into the fourth page of the shooting menu, and we'll get to that in just a moment on the next page, we have the esso speed settings, and we've had a new auto eso control in here, and I'd like to show you just a quick little live demo on the back of my camera and so let me turn the camera over here so that you can see it and so I'm gonna hit the menu button on here and let's go over to auto or the esso speed city so the top one here we can choose auto or we can choose any of the specific settings we want we're going to leave it in auto for right now the speed range is the total range that's available to us and I would say I'd like to have the full range available to me so I will generally have the left one on fifty and the maximum on twelve thousand eight hundred that way I can get to any I s so I might need it that particular time the auto eso range will ask us you know, what's the bottom and the top end when we're sitting an auto setting on the camera so I'm going to raise up the maximum of two, sixty four hundred that's probably good enough for now and down here too ok, so what is new is the minimum shutter speed so if you have the camera set let's just say in a programme mode what shutter speed will the camera choose and use and what will be its limitations and normally it's automatically going to be set and it's going to look at the focal length of the lands and it's going to try to choose a number that is appropriate for the land, so for instance, I have a thirty thirty five millimeter lens here it's going to probably want to choose a thirtieth of a second, but I think the the camera actually doesn't like to go below a sixteenth of a second so it's going to choose a sixtieth of a second and if we need something longer than that it's going to start changing the risotto a higher setting? Well, you can tell the camera I would prefer to have let's see let me go back to manual actually, no, I want otto, I keep forgetting it's the top dial so by turning the top dial, you can tell the camera that you would prefer to have a slightly faster shutter speed by one increment, which is about one stop or two or three if you think that you're really good at hand holding the camera under low light, you could set it a little bit lower. And so if you're not shooting action particularly if you're just trying to hand hold the camera and you have an image stabilized lens and you have a very steady hand, you could easily set this at auto minus two and that will allow you to shoot with some shorter shutter speeds and so let me leave it a zero for the moment I'm going to throw the camera in program and right in here right now, you can see it's giving us a shutter speed of one thirtieth of a second, and if I go into the menu and I come down here to auto and I said, you know what, I need a faster shutter speed by two and let's see what it says now. Now it's up to one hundred twenty fifth of a second, choosing faster shutter speed, so we'll wait and we'll do it again. We'll go down to minus two and I'm guessing it's going to be down around a fifteenth of a second thirtieth of a second. So depends on where light is but a great system for anyone who wants to customize auto. I s so so it's, not just choosing what it thinks it needs, and so our top dials. It enables us to go back and forth for right now, I'm gonna leave it on zero there. Now, just in case people are wondering what is the difference between the new es and s r camera versus the older five d mark three I ran my own test and let me just show you what these look like, and in case you don't have a great view on the screen, what I found is that there is very little difference, at least under this test. Upto eso thirty, two hundred above that I think the five d mark three has an advantage over the new fifty megapixel cameras and so very similar performance up to thirty, two hundred above that mark three has an advantage. All right, getting back into the menu system next one we're going to look at is shooting menu number four we have a new feature in this camera. This was brought in with the seventy mark too. They have added in interval timer built into the camera on the previous versions of the five days you had to buy the external cable release and program it all in there. Now you can do it in camera without any cables attached to your camera, so if you want to get into this, you go into the mode you enable it notice where it says info if you hit the info button that's gonna allow you to open up the next menu screen, which allows you to set a specific number of hours, minutes and seconds between the shots and how many shots that it will go up to and sell interval longer shots time lapse is a lot of fun to do. This was done down at mount hood in oregon. I did have the camera on um motorized slider moving the camera from side to side, shooting a photo about every ten seconds or so and so diving in and let me just do a quick little demo on this, and so if we look at the back of the camera, we're going to go over a we need to get on the interval timer. And so if we enable this, we're gonna hit the info button that goes in here and you'll be able to adjust either ours minutes or seconds, and for the number of shots, I think they could have done a better job here. They have it between ninety nine one in ninety nine, and a lot of people want to do something specific or longer. If you do want to go longer, you can just leave it at unlimited and come back to the camera and turn it off whenever you want to at that point. And so those are the options in there for the time lapse. All right, let's, see what else we got in this camera. Next up is another feature they've also added in the seventy mark, too is a bulb timer. So on this camera, if you put it in the bulb mode on five d mark three, you'd have to hook up the cable release and you would lock it in or you had said it for a specific amount of time. Now you can enable any amount of time over wh one sec, one second or over into the camera so everything between one and thirty you can do in the camera without the timer unless you were looking for something very unusual, like twenty seven or twenty eight seconds, but I think this will be mainly be helpful for people who are trying to do something longer than thirty seconds, and so you can programme in a much longer time. Now, having said that you can doesn't mean it's necessarily going to be really good part of the problem with any sort of digital devices as you leave it on, the sensor heats up, and it adds a lot of noise to your images. And so I would think that images that are taken that are over five minutes in length are going to end up with a lot of noise and probably not going to be the best in most situations, so you probably want to limit how long you're leading the camera on and so fun to play around for any sort of nighttime photography. It's, nice to have this built into a camera. In fact, all cameras should have it built in all right. Another new feature is anti flicker shooting. This is great for anyone who is working under artificial lights that blink or have a flick or to them. So for instance, fluorescent lighting. A lot of times this will happen to sports photographers working in gymnasiums what's going to happen is that there'll be some sort of light that has a flickering light that we don't notice with our human eyes because it's happening fairly quickly, but our cameras air firing so fast that there catching these lights either on the peak or in the down side of the flicker, and what this camera can do is it can detect when there is flicker and it will give you a warning, which is a separate feature I'll talk about later, but this feature, if you turn this on, what it will do is it will monitor the light levels as they go up and down very quickly. And it will time your photos at the peak of these lights so that you're getting the maximum amount of light and so that they're all consistent. I know at one point I was photographing gymnastics and I was getting inconsistent lighting results, even though I was on manual is so manual shutter speed and manual aperture, and there is no logical reason until I realized it was the flickering of lights, and this can solve it by turning this feature on now. Before you just flipped this on and say, I'm going to leave it here all the time realized that this does affect the performance of the camera and how fast it can shoot in other regards and so this is one of those things that you should only use if you really need it next to that I would leave it turned off all right, so mere lockup has become even more important with fifty mega pixels when the mere goes up, there is a vibration that happens throughout the camera and I wanted to do a little example and here and I wanted to show you where this is a problem and with a tiny lens like this thirty five it's not usually a very big problem, and so I brought in in one hundred four hundred to show you what the problem is and this typically happens either when you have a tripod that isn't perfectly steady or you have a bigger lands that there's more prone to a little bit of vibration and so let me mount this up here and we're going to do a little test shot over here, and so what I'm gonna do is if we want to get on the back of the camera, I'm going to go into a live view on just for simplicity's sake, I'm going to leave the camera in program actually, no, I need to go to shutter priority mode that I don't normally use I'm going to leave it in auto sl and I'm going to dial in a relatively awkward shutter speed of a half second and I want to go in and I'm going to zoom in on this camera we're going to zoom magnify in and what I'm doing is I'm using live you to focus and I want to just get this guy guaranteed in focus right? They're so we're totally unfocused let me just get this composition set right? Okay so we are in focus let me just double check turn off the air lock up we're going to see how bad it is just on its own so normal shot here mere goes up takes the photo will take a close look and there is definitely some blurring and so this is what's being caused by the table movement and that mere going up so let's go ahead and try it in the mere lock up again we'll do a two second delay on this one and so what I'm going to do is I'm going to take the extra precaution of going for a full ten second delay. I know this is a killer in video but this is trying to eliminate every bit of movement from this table and so we have our ten second and then we're gonna smear is going to go up and let's take a look at the sharpness of this and that is the sharpest we're looking for on this and so these are the types of special precautions you need to take with a fifty make a pixel camera cause it's going to really notice any sort of movement that you have on the camera and so that is a huge difference go to the previous image without good technique and with good technique and so very important getting the right technique and this is just more options for you to work with it depending on what sort of tripod and what sort of lens you're using, what sort of wind conditions and other things that you might be working within the so if you are working from a tripod and that's when you would normally be using the mere lock up it's not going to be as effective handheld although it is possible and that's why they've put in there the one eight second in one quarter so that you could hand hold the camera and that vibration from the mere coming up would dissipate in that period of time. And so I have found this helpful at a variety of shutter speeds generally you're not going to need it at really high end shutter speeds like over five hundredth of a second, but everything from one twenty fifth of a second down to a couple of seconds is where this is going to come into play all right, next up is a new feature crop and aspect ratio and so here is where you can have the camera shoot less than a full frame of information. Now this is not something that most people are gonna want to dio they're going to want the full three by two aspect ratio, but if you know the final image is going to be different and you want to see that in the viewfinder with this new intelligent view finder too you are actually able to see that cropping information in the viewfinder when you have this set and so it's a good feature for particular situations but it's not something that most photographers they're goingto have set on most of the time. All right continuing our way through the camera in the live you shooting method we have a new options down under f method which under the five mark three was called f mode so they have a slightly different name for it now and the five mark three actually has an additional mode called the quick mode that this camera does not have and so there's a different option in here in the flexi zone f is the one I would recommend it gives you a box to focus on and you can move that box around where you think it's best in the frame for focusing the continuous auto focusing is something that I would probably leave disabled it's just something that would be constantly hunting back and forth and I think working with a single auto focus would be a better system in that live you mode now remember there is a hidden menu in this camera when you flip it over into the movie mode and hit the menu button you're able to go in there and there is a servo or a continuous focusing system for the movie mode and my guess is somebody who was very casual about their videos that they were shooting would leave this enable that way the camera will automatically focus on whatever they point their camera definitely for the more serious videographer they're going to want to manually focus their lenses so that it's exactly where they wanted and it's changing from point a to point b exactly in this style that they want so they're probably going to have this disabled and probably manually focusing as well the method once again this is called a f mode on the mark three camera and the flexi zone and gives you a nice simple box toe work with on the new cameras recording size is basically the same as the five the mark three we're going to see the same basic options here that really hasn't changed too much all right shooting five page five in the movie mode there are some new options down under the shutter button so when you are in the movie mode how do you I want the shutter button to work on two different stages on the half press do you want it to focus or not focused and when you press all the way down do you want to be able to take still photos or shoot movies? And so now you can have anything you can imagine between those options and so if you like back button focusing you might choose this option where the half press just simply activates the media ring and you're going to do the focusing with one the back buttons or by manually focusing the camera itself and this is where I think most still photographers are goingto leave their camera so that if they are shooting movies they can take a still image any time they want for somebody who is really dedicated to shooting video with this camera you might want to change the shutter release button to starting and stopping the movie recording for some people that button is a little bit easier to hit than the button on the back it's not a big deal to me but if you were shooting movies all the time I would probably go with the second group of options here having that shutter release activate starting stop the movies so new options under button function as I say most still photographers they're going to probably take the top option or maybe the second option if they prefer the back button focusing on a new feature we have is time lapse movie and this is very similar to the interval ometer that we saw earlier that day difference between the two is in the interval ometer you took a siri's of still photos that you would work with later on your own in some sort of video program to compile those into a video in this case the camera will shoot the photos and compress it and put it into a video right in the camera itself and so if you want instant gratification you want to go to the time lapse movie if you want to have all the data toe work from you want the interval ometer serious so if you're really serious about shooting time lapse this is not the one that you're probably going to want because it's going to be a little bit more limited on what you can d'oh now you know if you hit the info button you're going to be able to dive into with the specifics of how to set it up your interval interval between shots and the total number of shots here. The nice thing is is that it does a lot of math for you and it shows you how long it's going to take to film the scene and how long the final video is going to be and so it could be a nice full time lapse calculator in case you're trying to figure out how far apart the shots need to be and for how many shots to get the right length of video. But if you are looking for a quick and simple movie mode right in the camera with a ready to go video, this would be where you'd want to do it. Moving over into the auto focus collection of menu taps the first one on page three, it's no different, but they've changed the name and I don't know why it does the same basic thing that it's always done on. So it it's just got a name change that's, all folks, all right, next up on page for the auto focus is the initial f point when you jump into a servo auto focus. Now, I had to read the instruction manual about twenty times to figure out exactly what's going on here, and so this has to do with what focusing point is active when you turn on a I servo auto focus when you are in the sixty one point area auto focus and the best analogy that I can think of on this one is you have a home and you have a car. And when you get into the car, what radio station do you want to be playing? Is that the radio station that you were last listening to when you were in the car or the radio station that you were listening to when you were back in the house? It kind of depends on where you were coming from because maybe you always like it on one place when you're in that one mode and so on this one you there is a couple of different options you can leave it on the initial auto focus point selected, and this remembers your focusing point the last time you were in the sixty one point auto focus mode, so maybe when you're in sixty one point auto focus, you always have it over to the left and so that's what you could keep their if you set number one number two is a manual auto focus point setting, and it holds the focus point from wherever you just came from. And so if you were using a single point and it was over to the right it's going to stay to the right and this is important to certain people who do a lot of action photography and they switch back and forth between single and continuous in this mode in the auto mode it tries to determine what's best I haven't figured out how it does thie auto mode but if you don't do a lot of that type of switching, the automotive probably going to be just fine. Next up is a feature that has been trickled down from the one d x camera, and this is a feature where the camera is going to use additional information to track the subjects. What it's going to be doing? It is it's using an intelligent tracking and recognition system, and it uses faces and subject colors to help identify what your subject is and to stay locked on them when it is tracking. And so if you want to use this it's going to be able to track a little bit better and so, for your average weekend photographer, you might say who does weekend sports? You probably want to leave this turned on because it's probably going to be able to track the actual that better. The serious pro is probably going to want to turn this off because there's a few glitches in the system, and it doesn't track with same consistency when this has turned on, and they might notice the shooting of images slowing down a little bit. So the five frames per second might slow down to four or three frames per second because it has more information that it's trying to process through and so. That's uh, it's something that you might want to give a try if you do a lot of action photography to see if it works for you because it in the idea of it, is that it's a little bit more accurate at the cost of not getting as many shots. And so it depends on what's more important, the accuracy or the number of shots. And so, as I say, this is hard for me to give a definitive advice on where to set this. It really depends on what you are shooting, what lens you're shooting and how you like to shoot your subject, but worthy of a initial try, I would think for anyone who does this very much, jumping over into the playback menu, not too much different in here, they have their own little photo book set up where you can create albums within the camera. Send it to the canon using the cannon eos utility software, then create photo books and you can kind of do that initial gathering of images in the camera. It's not something I know of anyone that does, but it can be done in the camera next up, second page and playback weaken do cropping in the camera now. This is one of those things where we can crop and save a new image. One of the things to be aware of is that you, if you crop in image, you are never actually cropping the original image, we're gonna basically be making a duplicate and cropping that duplicate image, and so you never harmed an original image jumping over into the setup menu. Now the viewfinder display is different because we have a new type of display in here that I have mentioned before and we have new options that are available for us in the display so you can see in this menu here we haven't elektronik level, we have a grid display, and then we have something else called show hide in view finder and if we go into that one there's going to be a bunch of check boxes and these air for items that will show up in the viewfinder on top of our subject where we're framing all the time. And so my kind of default thinking here is to leave these as unchecked as possible. Now the only one that I personally recommend leaving on is the flicker one in the right hand side because that will on ly come on when it detects a flicker problem in the lighting scene that you were looking at and so normally you're not going to see anything there on ly if there is a problem but if you do like to see a constant readout right on the display of any of these particular features, just give a check mark and you will see it right in the viewfinder as you're looking through the camera and so the reason I don't like it is I don't like stuff on top of the image when I am trying to compose, focus and frame my shots and where you will see that information is right along that bottom quadrant of the focusing screen. All right, moving on next up is thie hd my frame rate, this is something that's on ly in the mark three, so we're not going to be seen that in the in the new camera page three of the setup menu, the custom quick control this is what I had mentioned earlier, it allows us to go in customised the quick menu the way we want it to appear. It has a default system that it comes with, and so if you want to go in and edit this, you would go into this start at it editing layout, and you would basically have this grid of what we have for twenty four different boxes, and we can create in place different subject heard different topics within each of these boxes here, and this is how I have my camera set up right now, all right? Or wait is this the one that it comes with? I forget it this time uh no, that doesn't look like mine but you can have something take up one box or two boxes so if some things more important you could have a larger if you want it on there but it's not that important you can kind of scrunch it down into one little box and so you have a lot of layouts and tiles that you can move around in this to customize the camera and I think it's a great option and hope to see it on all future cameras as well. All right, next up is a dumb little setting in here it's the certification logos and so the camera meets sort of certain criteria and they put the little logo's in here toe indicate that it's past or has that particular feature it's not really a big deal moving into our custom functions on the camera there is a new one called same exposure for new apertures so this would be for people who are adding a telly extender or a extension two or possibly even zooming with the variable aperture zoom lens if the camera is not able to keep the correct exposure, would you prefer it to do nothing for to change the so and for maybe your weekend photographer who's not quite as up to speed on all the changes on their camera it's probably kinda nice to let the camera go in and compensate and just bump up the s o to make sure that you're getting the correct brightness. The more serious photographer wants to be in manual control of everything, and so you're probably gonna want to turn this off. You'll end up shooting that next photo realizing, oh, too dark, because I had an extender on and I forgot to compensate with a shutter speed or some other change on the camera and then physically make that change themselves. And so, once again, telly extenders, extension tube's and possibly zoom lenses that vary with their aperture is they zoom out is where this might come into play next page in the custom settings made menu. We have a new tab and a couple items on here. This allows us to go in and select the shutter speed range that the camera will allow us to use. Now, it's most likely that you're not going to even want to touch this, but if for some reason you never wanted the camera to shoot at in a thousandth of a second, you could draw it back and just have it limited to one four thousandth of a second, and the same can be said on the opposite end of the shutter speed. And the same thing could be said for the aperture range. If you knew that you didn't want a camera being used at a particular aperture, you could limit either the top end or the bottom end of that aperture range with this, I can't think of a lot of good examples that a normal photographer would use this with, but if you were a studio photographer, you weren't shooting with the camera and other people were, and you wanted to limit the camera to standards that you had figured out worked for you, you could potentially do that next up. What do we have here? Custom controls? So one of the things I want to do is I wanted to go in a little bit deeper into the customer controls, then I did in the original five d mark three class, we're going to take a look at a few things that you can do here they've had a few minor little changes in here, and I'm gonna talk through some of those as well as some of the other features in just a little bit more depth than I did in the normal class. So one of the options on this camera that's really popular with a lot of photographers it's what's called back button focusing, and this is where the focusing is controlled by a button on the back of the camera. And not the shutter release and in order to do this you would go in to the tab for the shutter release and you would turn off the auto focusing and so this is what it would look like you would highlight just the media ring so that when you press down on the shutter release it's on ly going to meet her the scene it's not going to auto focus the auto focus on the back of the camera the on button is how you would perform you're focusing and so your shutter release would be changed from mita ring and auto focus to just meet a ring and this is how you would do it on your camera very popular featured a have for as they say a lot of the serious photographers and pros out there a couple of other areas that are very well hidden in here and I would hazard a guess that ninety nine percent of the people who own this camera don't know about this is that you can register an auto focus point and go to it instantly so let's just say that you knew you wanted to focus in the upper right hand corner of the frame well you can have it go there with just a single press of the button and so the way that you register point is you would select the point and then you would press the focusing and then the lamp button and so let me just do a little demo here live for you, and so what I'm going to do is I'm going to make sure that I have selected a single point and I am going to select the upper right hand, and normally my beep is turned off and I'm going to turn it on so this so that you can hear it. And so right now I have the upper right hand points selected, so I'm going press the button in the back and the light button and you get a little beat, I'll register it several times there, and so now I have a point up here that has been registered so that's part one let's go to part two back on the keynote, and what we can then do is register and a f start position for one of the buttons and sew, for instance, on the on button. If we want, we could go into the info detail set and tell it to start from a particular position. The home point is what is known as the registered point that we just registered or the selected point is the current point that you have activated, so let me go ahead and do this on the camera now, so I'm going to go into the well actually I'm going to do it in the quick menu here I have my custom control set I'm going to go to the on button and I'm gonna go down here tio info detail set and I am going to set this to my home point now my home point is that registered point I put up in the upper right hand side so as you see the back of the camera I'm goingto go back to the center point focusing right now and if I'm focusing its going to focus on whatever is in the center and let me just make sure my cameras and auto focus to make sure this works and so when I focus on the camera with the on button it will instantly go to the back of the camera so you could have the front button going to one place and the on button going to the back place and so if I wanted to register this to another button I could do that right there let's just do this again we're going to move the focusing point over on the top left I'm going to register that point that's my new key point you can see it blinking up there in the left hand side and when I press the on button it instantly goes to that one up there and so if you have two different focusing points that you're quickly jumping back and forth between this is one of those ways to register that focusing point as a different point and so you could have the camera programmed if you have auto focusing set to the front shutter release to go to the center point and then by pressing the a f unbutton going to that registered point that you selected that would go some place else and so it could be very interesting for sports photographers who are keeping an eye on the action but they want to be able to record something else that's in a different area focusing that they need another area where photographers air constantly jumping back and forth is lean back and forth between the one shot option and focus to the server words continuously tracking subjects. One of the options we could have is with the front button set to meet a ring set the on button for back button focusing and have this set for one shot and single point so that you're just looking at a very tiny area for subject that's not moving but you could have the ass trick buttons set for auto focusing in a servo mode and in an a f mode and in a zone a f so that you're looking at a larger area and this would be a great way to go back and forth between two very different types of subjects one button does one type of focusing one button does the other type of focusing and so the way that we would do this well, actually, let me let me go back a slide, try to get back a slight here and let's cut to the live camera and let's do this in camera so let's see if I can set my camera up and I'm going to need to go into the custom controls, which I have a short kind of my quick menu, so we'll set the front button to focus in one direction. Well said this to focus with servo and with a zone, a f and so now let's, make sure I'm in auto focus, make sure you get this set right here and so f on should set. We're going to change this to the selected point in the middle, but we're going to go to servo in the wide mode, and so you can see now when I press the on button, all nine points go on right in the middle when I press in the front to focus it's just looking in the middle, and I could instantly change to a different type of focusing system. And so this is something that is really nice if you have different types of situations that you're going back and forth between and so neat little feature tohave next up, let's go to who actually we got past this all right, so recall shooting function this allows you to press one button on the camera to change a number of functions on the camera and so this is a way for you to change any one of the options that you see up here shutter speeds apertures whole different sets of data for the way the camera's working and the scenario that I imagined for this is the professional sports photographer who is shooting action on the field and they have manual shutter speeds and manual ac picture set for their camera but they want to point the camera into the stands and they want to photograph in the stands which is a completely different lighting environment with one press of a button they can change that into a different shutter speed and aperture and then just simply by pressing that button coming back on that and so let's see if I can go in and do this one so we're going to see if we can change the ass trick button so let me go back just a step so you can see him going into the custom controls I'm gonna go down to the ass trick button and I'm going to change this over to register recalls shooting functions and if I go into info detail set I can select a very specific shutter speed so for instance let's go in and change the shutter speed to five hundredth of a second and I'm an aperture priority right now let me change this into manual. I got to jump back in there, press the buttons to past let's change to an aperture let's, just change this two f sixteen and let's just say that we want it to be a tte sixteen and we'll go down, we'll change the so and we'll just change that to thirty, two hundred. So now on the camera itself right now, I'm going to change the so to one hundred with an aperture setting of five point six. And so when I press this button on the camera, which is my register recall, you can see that it automatically goes back to thirty, two hundred and f sixteen. It could do that with any number of those features that we go in to do that. So once again you would go into the queue menu, the custom menu, go to the registered, recall, whatever, but you haven't set tio hit the info button, and then you can go through the list of all the things that you might want to set for a particular operation and have one button instantly take you to all of those functions and so it's an interesting option for anyone that needs to make very, very quick changes on their camera. And a lot of this does actually work with the five day mark three, so if you don't own one of these new cameras, take a look at your five day mark three there may be a few more options in the new camera, but it's something that is available in the mark three all right, moving back to the keynote next up, the multifunction button on the top of the camera can now be programmed to do ah, few different things in the camera. So if we look into this menu here, one of the interesting options is it khun cycle the main controls and the main controls are the white balance meet during the drive, the auto focus, the flash and the s o settings. And so by pressing those buttons, you can have a very quick access to making those changes. Now, I know what you're saying, but john there's buttons on the top of the camera that do that sort of thing. Well, this allows you to do it all with one button by simply cycling through the different options there, and I think it's one of the better options for having for programming on that button, but just realize that their arm or in new options, that you can program that but to dio finally the set button on the back of the camera that doesn't do anything on its own and so there's a couple of good options, I would go in and re program that two one would be the menu. That way you can get ahold of the menu with your right hand if you're just holding the camera with one hand or enable you to magnify your images because sometimes working at your left hand on the camera isn't quite as easy and it's nice working everything with the right hand side of your camera and we'll throw one more in there. This is a popular one for people who are changing their focusing points very quickly is the multi control or make sure that that is set to direct a f point selection so that you could just quickly change your auto focus from one point to the other. It's how I normally leave my camera on by default and let's, just take a quick look at my camera and make sure that I am in that mode right here. So I do have that set, so I have direct control, which means that I don't have to press any buttons. I can just start changing the focusing points left and right. I don't have to press this button on the back of the camera to activate that feature I can just move this around at will, and as long as I don't bump that button inadvertently very much, then it's probably worth your time to do that so that it's just as quick and as easy to change those focusing points. So those are some new features and some further insight into how to use some of the custom controls on the camera back in the regular old menu, we have a new option for adding cropping information, and this is where the images air cropped, but they're not really cropped. You have to use cannon software to get the crop out of the camera, so I don't know a lot of people that are using the software, but if you do use it, you can crop it in the camera, you can see it in the camera and then have that option for cropping it later. If you shoot raw images it's still going to give you the full rai image? Kanan has brought out some new lenses that are called sdm lenses, and they are fly by wire they have focusing that is controlled electronically. And one of the downsides to these lenses is that as you focus them, the lens elements move out away from the body and as you turn the camera body off the lens is kind of stuck and you can't manually focus it back to its retracted normal position. And so this is something that I would normally leave turned on it will automatically retract the lands back in when you turn the camera off. Finally, my menu has been expanded, and you can now have my tabs along with the information in your camera, so on candid cameras for quite some time, you've been able to choose what you want in your camera, but it's been limited to those five or six items that it could fit on the lines there. Now you can add several tabs to the issue, so you can added a menu tab to it, and then you can configure that tab by giving it a name and adding particular features onto it. And so let's, take a look on the back of my camera and show you I've already kind of set my camera up, and so I'm going to go kind of back around the back side here, and I've already set up a number of menus for my camera, so my first menu I just gave it my initials, and I put in features that I use on a regular basis. I set up another tab that's for landscape photography features that I would change doing landscape type photography, another set of another tab with a b, a group of features for doing action photography and another one for shooting video things that I would normally change there if I wanted to, I could go add a new tab to the camera and then I could configure it by giving it a name I could rename the tab and I could go in and give it a particular name I'm just gonna let it be right there, we could go in and we could select items and I could go through the full list of items in the menu to select what do I want to select in that particular tab? Not gonna worry about doing that right now and let's go back in here and then normally I'm going to leave this the last one is always kind of the organization tab, and I would usually leave this menu display set on display from my menu town so that any time I turned the camera on, it always goes to my customised menu that I have created if you wanted to, you could display on lee from my menu tab, and then whenever you hit the menu, the on ly thing you're going to see is what you have in your camera out there it's a little bit limiting because sometimes I want to check something else out in the camp, and so from my menu tab allows me to go to just my quick collection of features that I use all the time, so I highly recommend customizing that it's going to save you time from digging around and looking in the menu system for things that you were not sure where they are. So folks that'll update you on the features of the new five gs and the five g s r also included with the class. I've included a new pdf that has the full menu outline enlisting of the all the features, all the menu items in the new camera. I also have my recommendations in there, same as I did in the other class, but just updated for the new camera. And that should get you up to speed on your new camera. I'd say. Take it out there, enjoy it, because it is, I think, arguably the greatest camera out on the market today, so, thanks a lot and enjoy.
Ratings and Reviews
a Creativelive Student
I really enjoy any John Greengo class - beside being an incredible photographer, he has the true nature of a teacher. What a combo: a fantastic photographer with a great sense of humor who can really explain complex concepts and take the fear out of all of those buttons and dials! I LOVE his 'tests' and visual challenges: the immediate results help to cement the information. I have had my Canon Mark D III for almost a year now. The time I spent experimenting with it and reading most of the manual (ok, maybe I am a nerd!) was great preparation for this class as I knew exactly the things that were confusing me. And, as usual, Mr. Greengo delivered. So glad I purchased the course so I can review it many times. Only two disappointments: unless I missed it, it wasn't made clear how to switch from one card to the other. I was in Scotland and my screen kept flashing, "card is full" - and I couldn't figure out how to switch to the other one; and I did want to fill in the copyright/name information but can't figure out how to 'type' in anything. Class is a must for a new owner of this camera.
Wonderful, wonderful instruction! I wish every instructor could be as point-on as John Greengo. I had my money's worth about a quarter of the way through the class. At the end, I called it priceless. I have had my 5D Mark iii for almost 2 years, and John taught me some extremely useful things about the camera I did not know. Even if you are an advanced shooter with considerable 5DMiii experience, you are likely to get something valuable from this course - otherwise, you are CERTAIN to get really valuable knowledge about your camera. Strongly recommended for Canon 5D Mark iii owners.
LOVE, LOVE, LOVE John's classes. Bought the 70D class for my first camera, now the 5D Mark III class, so worth it. Awesome investment!