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Canon 60D Fast Start

Lesson 3 of 7

Display System


Canon 60D Fast Start

Lesson 3 of 7

Display System


Lesson Info

Display System

Okay, so let's talk about the menu system and how we get in and operate a lot of functions within the inside of the camera electronically. And so what we want to talk about first is the display system on the camera. How does the camera feed you? Information? And there are three different ways through the viewfinder, the lcd panel and in the lcd monitor let's talk first about the viewfinder display, so when you look through the camera, you're going to see a bunch of little markings in there, and the first thing to take note of is the overall frame what you see from top to bottom and left to right it is ninety five percent accurate. You are actually getting five percent mohr than you bargain for. It allows you to basically it's shooting a little bit over what you get to see, and so if you line up something perfectly on the edge of the frame, you're going to get a little bit more than that. We've talked a little bit about the focusing points in here we have nine different cross sensitive ...

points that are all good on vertical lines is horizontal lines. You can select one point or you can select all the points, and we will be doing more of that as we go along. The little circle in the middle is thie spot metering area there's, a couple metering patterns and this is the on ly one that's indicated. If you want a very precise way to read light, you can use thie spot metering area below the framing and all this other information is the led information and there is a lot of little things going on here and so let's just kind of go through these one by one from left to right, starting with the battery level just a quick indication of how good your battery is doing. You'll actually see this in a couple places in the camera, but it's nice to have it in the viewfinder the auto exposure lock button, which is that thumb button on the back right side of your camera. If you press that in, you will see that light light up we have our flash indicator. If the flash is up and ready to go we have some special modes that you can use with external flash is this one is called high speed sink. You can synchronize the shutter speed on this camera higher than the standard one to fiftieth of a second. You could get it up to a thousand or even up to eight thousandth of a second with the right flash put into the high speed sync mode, you can lock the flash exposure and as I said, the flashes powered automatically and you may find that it's not always the perfect automation it's either too powerful or not powerful enough and you can lock that in and this would end it. This would tell you that you have locked that in we have our exposure compensation, where you can adjust it manually will be doing that here in a moment. Then we have our big numbers are shutter speed information. And when you see a number here let's, just take a number like one thousand. If you see one thousand it's, not a thousand seconds, it's a fraction of a second it's one one thousandth of a second, and then when we'll have, we'll have our other important factor, which is our aperture. Next to that is our exposure levels, and this is indicating whether we are under exposed or over exposed. We have minus on the left to indicate a dark reading, and plus is on the right to indicate a bright reading, and so you will use this very, very closely if you were in manual mode. But if you are in the aperture value or the time value mode, you could do exposure compensation and look att your indicator on here to see how far you have gone in either direction, there is a mode called highlight tone priority will talk more about this later and then we have our s o speed what s so do you currently have? Set is a very important number it's something you can change very quickly and easily and it's good to know about it looking through the viewfinder so more little things that we can change that we'll talk about later is white balance correction and black and white shooting and then over on the right hand side when you look at their through there there is a number and that is the maximum burst that's how many pictures you can shoot at any given moment? For the most part the camera khun shoot a number of pictures very quickly can shoot it five frames per second but it can only shoot for so many pictures right now as I looked through the camera that number is forty two so I can shoot two forty two shots very, very quickly but my camera can handle over two hundred shots right now and then finally we have our focus confirmation this will light up when your camera achieves proper focus. You can also use this in manual exposure as a little bit of a focusing aid to let you know that you have properly focused next up let's look at the lcd panel on the top of the camera we saw this a little bit earlier but let's take a closer look at what we have in this panel over on the left hand side, which is very conveniently located right below the autofocus button is the focus mode we can change from one shot to a I focus too, eh? I serve oh, we have our drive mode. We have our highlight tone priority that we're still going to talk more about later our s o and our meeting system these are things that were going to change on a regular basis and we'll be getting in to making these changes on the camera in the camera operation section we have our shutter speeds and apertures just below that this is our total remaining shots. This is different than the number of shots that you see in the viewfinder in the viewfinder that's how many you can take in one burst? This is how many you have total remaining on the card we have another battery indicator ah bracketing mode where you khun shoot a variety of exposures light to dark, another exposure meter are white mallon's correction, flash exposure compensation and black and white some of these modes I'm kind of breezing over because we will talk more about them when we get into the menu section where we actually get to change these thes air just indicating that there really important and you probably want to know about the fact that you've set them or that you haven't set them when you're out taking pictures now, let's, talk about the main lcd on the back of the camera to get in and use this. There are a number of buttons that you will be using on a regular basis. The first button is thie cuba in which stands for quick control, and this is a button that is basically a shortcut to get into some of the most common features that you might want to change. The information button will change the information that you see displayed in the lcd and the menu button is going to get in and help and enable you to get in to change a lot of the features of the camera. When you are in any of the men use, you're going to be using the main dial up on the front of the camera or you used the quick control dial to make changes either left right up and down. You can use that, but you can also use the multidirectional controller so there's a couple different ways that you can use different dials and buttons to move around. And then when you have made the setting that you want to set, you can use the set button, pulling up different sets of information. One of the info screens that you're going to get is basically just a simple screen like this letting you know where you have your camera set at any particular time I personally don't use this a lot, but it's there if you want to see if you've made some major change on your camera, one of the coolest things on this camera is thie elektronik level and this is a display that you can pull up that lets you know if you're tilted left or tilted right and then when you get in the center it becomes a solid green line and so if you're trying to line up a horizon line, you can use that by pressing the information button to get that elektronik level let's talk about the quick control screen so I'm gonna go ahead and activate the quick control screen on my camera by pressing the cube button and there is a lot of bits of information in here. The top row is the most important information you're shooting mode your shutter speeds your aperture and your eye sl and those are the things that you really want to know on a regular basis. What are you doing the next blow that is once again this is the third time we've seen this this is your exposure meter to see if you're over or under exposed we have our drive mode and then we have the ability to go in and turn on our elektronik level next row below that is our flash exposure compensation and this is a good place to actually change this if you want. And so on my camera, I'm going to go ahead and change this to minus one and set that here's. Why I like to have it set at minus one let's talk about exposure compensation so I talked about using the flash outdoors. It's a good thing to do to fill in, uh in anyone's face with a little bit of light. The problem is, is that the automatic flash that fires the tt l or through the lands flash is too powerful and you can power down the flash at minus juan or minus two so that there's less power. Now, in this particular situation, I don't see much difference between minus one and minus two. So I think minus one is the right choice for general. Fill in flash photography, but let's look at another situation on a bright, sunny day here. The camera is firing what it thinks is the proper amount of flash. I think we can all tell that it's well over exposed on her face. And the reason is, is that the camera is trying to compensate for the dark sweater and the dark background. While the camera is trying to do it's best it just doesn't understand the situation as well as our eyes dio so we can set a minus tt l one minus two or minus three in this case I prefer minus two and so I would go in and adjust that to minus two and so in this case I'll press the cube button on the camera to get that activated I will navigate my way to that feature I'll press the set button and then I can go plus or I can go minus and just for standard I think it's pretty good to leave this at minus one so I'm gonna press set and now I have a minus one in my camera next up is picture styles and white balance picture styles will talk more about in the menu system white balance is something will also talk a little bit more about in the menu system auto lightning and custom controls these air all features that you would go in and make changes on but it's something that you might want to know that you've made those changes and that's why it's displaying this information here it might also be something that you change on a regular basis down below that is your focus mode we have our focus points and so we can also use our focus points down here as well is that thumb but so I could go in and I can select any one of the different focusing points or have all of them selected and so if you like this visual interface as opposed to just pressing the button and looking through the viewfinder this is the way to do it on the back of the camera we have arm eatery mode right down here indicates what metering mode ran we can go into that we can select from one of four different meeting moz and set our metering mode right there finally we have our image quality whether we've set to jpeg or raw images in what size of jpeg if we have that set and then down at the bottom is basically a q down there to let you know they to activate the q man you you just need to press the queue button we have another battery indicator and then we have our remaining shots total remaining shots on the card and so I think this is where I'd like to kind of draw break and so we'll go ahead and take some catch up questions at this point and then well for a live audience will be taking a little break here in a moment all right I had a question from ken chie uh on you mentioned high speed flash and here she wanted to know how that works high speed flash well one of the things that you do need is you need a cannon external flash you need one of their I think it's the five eighty e x flash or the four thirty e x to flash on dh there is a function on that flash called h or high speed and what that does is it fires the flash in multiple small bursts during a very fast shutter speed so you could use a shutter speed of, say, a five hundredth of a second or a thousandth of a second the disadvantage is that the flash is not very powerful because they're a bunch of low powered very quick flashes so it's not good for very good distance you can use it for special hi tech photography worry I was I was trying to photograph water dropping into a glass and that splash of water as it hits more water needed a really fast shutter speed I needed a lot of lights so that's one reason to you to use it another reason would be if you're trying to a tree achieve a certain shutter speed that you can't get at to fiftieth of a second you need a faster shutter speed because you want to open your lens up wider and so there is some portrait reasons why you might want ah very fast flash think annabella studios would like to know if you could go over the flash button one more time the flash button we'll flash button will pop up the flash but for changing the flash modes that is going to be in the camera in the menu system, and so we're going to be talking a little bit more about some of the different flash modes that you can change. The main thing is changing the exposure compensation for the built in flash and that's done with the quick menu in the back of the camera and navigating to the flash and under exposing or over exposing. There are some other flash functions that you can do, but we will be hitting on that more when we get into the menu section. Thank you. Question from jesus was what would be oh and think well, beginning to this, but what would be a good recommendation for cf cards for smooth movies capturing, not dropping frames? Okay, well, first off, I need to correct him it's sd cards that we use in this camera, not cf, which stands for compact flash first, so secure digital cards, which is going to be a card about this size and for shooting movies in here, you want to get a card that shoots class six will range anywhere from class one to class ten you don't need a class ten, you could certainly use one, but class six or higher on the sd cards should work fine for shooting videos as well. A shooting stills shooting videos is, for those of you interested shooting videos is slightly more intensive on the memory card and so if you don't shoot videos you can shoot a lower class a card like a class four class to card maui photo ask is there a way to remotely trigger it trigger the start stop in movie mode they shoot wedding videos with two cameras one of which is unmanned and need to restart the recording after it reaches the twelve minute limit who yes that's ah bit of an issue and one of the things that this camera is not designed for video there is nothing from cannon that can do that there may be and I don't know that there is but I would just assume that there is some aftermarket company that has found a need and it figured out a way to do it but I don't know who they are or what they do it exactly how they do it so it's it's not the way the camera's designed and nothing from canon allows you to do that okay well maybe somebody in the chat room knows yeah because of him and see if anyone knows the answer to that question from framed photography was uh can I use maybe an external strobe on high speed an external strobe no I don't believe so I think you have to have the cannon flash either physically attached or with their standard tt l cable once you get it off camera the synchronization of it won't time out and it's it's hard to get that to work there once again there may be somebody who's figured out how to do it with very high technical equipment but your standards studio strobes are not going to able to be hooked up to this camera and fired above one to fiftieth of a second you're gonna have to get that cannon flash all right should keep asking questions we have I think so okay um a couple people in the chat room including here had the three pictures that you had shown of the little girl they they said that they like the one in the middle and they don't really understand about using inbuilt flash that they think that it may be gives a fake look um if you could explain why you like flash pictures the best and I don't know if this is making sense to you and then hadiya had asked about also discussing more about flash um so as faras the aesthetic okay I think I'm actually going to jump back in the keen out here if I could do this pretty quickly is the question making sense to you john yes it does great makes perfect sense I just need to find it okay so I think they said they preferred the picture in the middle which is the one that I said I liked as well the problem with using the built in flashes that it automatically fires what it thinks it using its algorithm to figure out the correct amount of light what it thinks is the correct amount of light but it doesn't understand tonal values in human faces versus the clothing that they're wearing versus the background and so in the standard tt l shot here, the camera fired off a bunch of light thinking that it's trying to compensate for that dark background and that's somewhat darker colored shirt that she has on and so what we need to do is we need to power the flash down and so what we've done is we've powered it down one stop, which is what the tt l minus one means minus one means one stop, which means half the amount of light it's coming out of the flash now in this particular situation it doesn't help going down to minus two minus two and minus one are almost the same under these lighting conditions where you can really see the problem is in this next example obviously the camera here is firing off way too much flash and what the cameras trying to do is it's looking at that dark sweater and that dark background and it's trying to lighten it up on that dark sweater is a really dark blue sweater and it's just not going to lighten up ah and that background is pretty far back there and pretty dark and is not going to lighten up either, and so it just continues to lighten up on the face and that's, why it's caused this over exposure on the face and the same problem with the minus one. In this case, it just needs to be dialled down to minus two, and so ask anyone who who knows what they're doing that uses flash a lot, and if they used detail flash, ask him where they like to keep their flash dial to most photographers will be around minus one summer at minus two thirds, somewhere at minus is stopping a third or a minus stop in two thirds. It depends on the situation, a wide variety of situations on what you're shooting and the way you use your cameras and flashes. But for most people, I would generally leave it powered down to half power, which is tt l minus one. Thank you, john, I have another question from neil uh, who asked, is the lively lags something that could be improved by cannon later on? The firmware update lying your thoughts, um, it's possible, but unlikely not going to throw anything into the impossible category, but having seen what they can and what they can't do with firmware updates, which is something else we will talk about when we get in the milieu system that's just a limitation, the inherent ability of the camera I'm sure that there are many debates within cannon about how much to improve the video functions of the camera because at a certain point when you start improving the video components and possibilities of this camera, it starts taking away from its main point which is taking still pictures and so as long as they can make video better that's fine with me but when they start stripping away the ability of this camera to shoot still pictures that's when I'm going to become unhappy with it and right now their primary focus is on taking still pictures and doing the best video they can in addition to that and right now the problem is is that when that mere is in the up position to get the live view, they don't have their standard focusing system that they have built up on designed over the last twenty years in these cameras and so I'm sure that there will be better cameras in the future there's no doubt about that I don't know exactly how they're going to do it, but I'm sure they'll figure it out johnson would like to know uh any any chance you could give some tips on shooting the strip in vegas at night and how to avoid overexposure of the lights who that's going to be that's a tough one on in vegas over exposure of the lights? Well nighttime that night well I think the main thing is is going to be shooting test pictures, looking at the results on the back of the camera, looking at the history graham and adjusting your shutter speed aperture I s o combination until you get a proper balance, it's going to be okay that some of the lights are blown out out, that is ok, so don't think that you have to get all the lights within the tonal range of the camera because you're going to have it if you're shooting at nighttime there's going to be some things that are perfectly dark, and they're going to some things that are really, really, really bright. I know I've been to vegas, and they have some really bright lights there and it's, it's, okay and it's, just a matter of getting that balance of how overexposed and how under exposed to let the dark areas go. And so this is where you want to look at the history graham on the camera, and if you're not familiar with their history, ram, you may want to take a class in photography. I explained that in my fundamentals of digital photography, but it's a tool on the back of the camera, which allows you to see the exposure information, the pixels that you're recording, how bright they are, how dark they are, and it's it's like a lie detector it's the truth of how well you're exposing your image and it's a great tool and that sort of situation I would I set my camera on a tripod and take a couple of pictures and then look at that history ram and then just to get that history graham in the right area so that I'm capturing the most amount of data in the middle of that history graham and sew it in general you want it to be a mound in the middle but in vegas at night time it's likely to be a couple of spikes off the end of the sides and that is okay as long as those spikes air somewhat even now I'm sorry if that's not a complete answer it just dives into an area of understanding photography and hissed a grams beyond the scope of this class yeah it's a complicated question it is and a question from jesus any suggestions on shooting video about avoiding hot pixels when shooting on hi s o in low light conditions who it's you know that's kind of the same question in some ways it's getting that exposure range the camera's one of the disadvantage to these cameras to those for a new art of photography is that camera's in general not this particular camera but cameras in general cannot record super dark areas and super bright areas all at the same time and it's a contrast problem we can't handle the exposure range of superb rights and super darks and shooting video it's the same as shooting stills I don't think there's really too much difference in that in general you don't want to have too many really brought bright hot spots in an image and so you want to be very careful about overexposing the highlights in many cases it's okay to have a lot of dark areas in your photograph but be careful about having too many highlights now this of course is a very, very general rule of thumb that can be a changed and adjusted to the situation that you are shooting in so it's a little bit of experimentation in that case I would probably say changing to a manual exposure mode which is something we'll learn how to do when we get into the menu section you can change and shoot video in manual it's not great at it but it can do it uh pet cheung would like to know is there a way to change one of the presets like sports mode into another custom mode? No, that would be really nice if you could adjust the sports mode and make a couple of changes and make it your sports mode and that's what the custom menu is on this cameron on this level of camera you get one custom menu on higher in cameras you sometimes get multiple custom menus that you can put in so on this camera you have one special custom build that could be your sports mode or landscape or whatever it is that you happened to dio no, those are completely pre programmed and unchangeable. Good to know your name, I will ask, does the quick control screen as a square grid? Not only information in the left margin on ly work and viewfinder mode doesn't mean I'm not completely sure, because when we go into that way, go into the quick menu, pull up in the quick menu here and try reading that question again see if we could have, I guess it's not only the information in the left margin, I'm not sure what they mean by the left margin because there's the grid with all the information in the viewfinder mode, let me let me I have it, I have a written a little bit differently, so question version too okay version too does the quick screen function as a square grid of information? Is it only available in the viewfinder mode and not the live view on the lcd where it only comes up in the left? Okay, yeah, correct when you go into a live view on this camera, which isn't too interesting right now because I'm pointed at a black desk you can't get into the quick menu and so that is something that you would have to exit out of the live you mode to get in and make those changes on. So yeah, it's it's only available on the back lcd when you're not in the lai view cameras only got one screen how about a camera with two screens with a pickle? I think they'd be getting funky, but that would be a great way to one up the competition, right? Flip out screens like here's question from shasta does the flash compensation change the external flash exposure? Also? Well, this camera has a number of menu functions where you can control an external flash. The one we've done so far is just controlling the internal one, but there is a menu setting that we'll get to in the flash functions where you khun go into an external flash, you can change the custom functions, you can change the mode of the flash and you could change the the exposure compensation. So there is enough communication between the camera and the flash that you could do that in the camera nowadays. I don't have a flash with me, so I can't demonstrate it, but it can be done and charly jay would like to know, can you use flash with live you? He can't get his toe work together, no there's a few things that don't work in life view and so I haven't actually tried that, but it doesn't surprise me. Let me go ahead and try this, so I'm going to be in full manual. I'm gonna flip open my flash here and I'm going to try firing this flash right here and actually it did fire, so I don't know it won't work in the video mode. I know that because that's not going to do any good, but I am definitely getting flash here, let me change it to aperture priority and see if it fires it isthe let me try simple green auto mode see if that fires and it fires there wasn't in the live you were going to live, you simple green mode it is firing so I guess I was wrong and they have their cameras set up in a way that for some reason it may not be firing, I guess that's all I have to say on that, huh? Framed photography says they literally get one little white spot when shooting video on what they'd like to know if they have a problem with their camera. One little white spot literally get one little white spot when shooting video wow, I don't even know what to say on that one, huh? And, uh uh, because when you go to if they turn it to the video mode the exposure is automatic unless you have gone into the menu and I haven't showed you how to do that change it to manual it should automatically be making adjustments for lightness and darkness and I can't imagine why they're only getting one white spot I would say if they're in a black room with one white light that would be the only thing I could think of or maybe there is a problem there there may be a problem s o play around with it some more maybe talk to the people that soldier the camera and see if there's something else that's going on because I you need to have more of a direct conversation back and forth as to what's going on I don't know on that one okay thanks john I have one more question for now I think um from habit do I need to keep the uh the star button so the foot lock button in the back for the photo so I need to keep the star button for the photo or will it work for just one photo by depressing at once so I guess so I need to keep it held right it looks like the way we have this camera set up now is that you will press the button and it will lock the exposure in when you take a picture actually when you take a couple pictures and so that can be committed un activated by turning the camera off. So if I point it and get the right exposure locket in, I could take my thumb off the button recompose and take the picture in that exposure is locked in so you don't have to keep it held and it stays lit as long as it is activated in there. And so that's not just for one photo will it's kind of interesting, because if I lock it in, it stays on and I think it stays on for about six seconds. Okay, the meter goes down and so they it's activated for about six seconds. So the meter is activated for six seconds and when I lock it in its good for about six seconds and so I could take a picture. Wait six seconds. I could wait five seconds to take another picture and it's still locked in, but after six second lag, either pressing the button or the shutter release, then it goes back to normal. All right, good to know. Thank you. Another question from shasta. Can you explain the numbers of remaining images in the viewfinder and burst mode again? First mode. Okay. When the cameras takes a picture, it doesn't send it directly to the memory card it goes to a temporary ram. Memory storage and it does that because it takes too long to write it to the memory card if it did it straight to the memory card, you take one picture and you would have to wait for the next picture and then wait for the next picture so it sends pictures very quickly into this ram memory and right now on my camera I can get forty two images into this buffer this ram memory buffer and they go into the buffer and then they get stored into the memory card and so if I shoot a bunch of pictures let me put this in the sports mode right now put it in the high speed sports and make sure that I can focus on something real quick so listen to the camera fire away here we're gonna let this run for a little bit and so if I look at the buffer right now it says six and if I look at it now it says seven still at seven and so nine and so what's happening is that I've basically gone through a bunch of bullets and my supply is slowly getting replenished as the images are being start to the memory card and so if I hold the camera like this, you can see the card light is on and it is storing images to the card right now I don't want take the card out I want to don't want to take the battery out don't want to turn the camera off and so it's just a temporary memory and how much is left in that memory before it goes to the card? And so now that I've let it process it's still not done, but it is up at forty forty one and this red light's going to go off right there and so I could go shoot another burst. I'm down at thirty six thirty seven and we watched the red light. We can watch the red light turn off here and probably about five seconds, because it's there it is, just storing information to the memory cards so that's, how much temporary storage you have in the camera, and so you want to keep an eye on that if you're shooting sports because that's, how many pictures you can shoot in the next burst of pictures, my chaos do you like the bari angle screen? The heist? Very angry angle? Does he see it coming to the full pro model that's? A good question, that one? I don't know is it going to be implemented on other cameras? I do like this just because holding the camera put this around how it is on most cameras like this holding a camera like this is not a good way to hold the camera. Okay holding it like this pressed up against your forehead right here is an extra point of contact and so you have three points of contact and it helps steady the camera holding it out here it's not a stable and it actually becomes quite uncomfortable just hold the camera like this for about three minutes and you'll be dying to put the camera down it's not a comfortable position to put the camera however holding the camera down here where you can put the elbows into your body is a more comfortable position and so I could hold a camera like this for a longer period of time so I do like this angled screen for video shooting it's also nice if you're working on a tripod whether you have your tripod very low to the ground or you have very high and you turn the screen so you can view it from below and so I do like the screen the downside to this type of screen is that on the back of the camera we've lost a bunch of space where our buttons used to be and so now all of our buttons are in this very tight cluster and if you have big fingers or you have fumbling fingers you're gonna have a harder time pressing those buttons and so there is a the compromised everything in photography and that's part of the compromise of the variable angle screen in general I like it do I want it on my camera? My higher in professional camera? I don't know I'll take what they give me I guess I don't have much choice I do kind of like some of the options that it gives for some people it's going to help out quite a bit if you plan to shoot this with video, it could be really, really nice because you could have it on ah variety of devices, whether they're steady cams or booms and you can be able to see the screen from a variety of angles so if you're going to shoot video it's a great thing to have for everyone else kind of depends on your use charly jay says when you have old knees like me very angle screen is a lifesaver well, if it's going to save a life, you know it's got to be good and charlie j says, uh he shoots lots of macro was using that macros very helpful, definitely right. Another question from pain geniality once you go to the quick view screen summary of your settings while shooting in the live video in the sari in the viewfinder mode, how do you let go of that screen to save battery as and when you're no longer interested in seeing the info on all photos, you can just hit the information button a number of times the information will cycle through maybe pointed here at our subject right here and if I hit the quick screen it pulls up information and if I hit quick, it'll go through a a couple of options, but if I hit info, perhaps it needs to be you can kind of get locked in in a dead end as I can see there, so if I bring up quick and I have the focusing bracket bracket activated, I can't I can't get act out of it so it's a matter of the information button and the cube button to pull up different information or to get rid of all of it together. Yeah, if you don't have a focusing bracket activated it's hard to get rid of that so it's a matter of the info button in the queue button together claire of our ai says you need to cover the eyepiece to block light if your eyes in covering it when you shoot, that could be a problem and, er some situations it depends on which mode you're in for shooting video what's so let's, give this a try right now if I cover the eyepiece no and the reason is when I'm shooting video, the mere is locked up and it is blocking light coming in from this angle we're blocking the viewfinder is important is if you were to have your camera in say, program time value aperture value you and you set it up on a tripod. And there is a light coming into the light to through the back of the viewfinder, it's going through the prism, hitting the mir and going out down into the light meter of the camera. That could throw off your exposure. So when you're in the standard shooting mode, not live you not moving mode. You want to block the light coming in here. And so that's. Why you want to keep your eye up to it, or there are. There is a divisively comes with the camera that you can clip over this and block the light. So if you're going to shoot a self timer, I would recommend the manual mode. That way, you don't have to worry about light coming in through the back of the camera, because that can affect your exposure.

Class Description

Join John Greengo for an in-depth step-by-step tour of the Canon® EOS 60D. With a hands-on introduction to your camera's operations, detailed instructions on how all the menus work, and easy tips on how to shoot great photos with this specific camera model.


  1. Introduction
  2. Button Layout

    Get an in-depth guide to all of the features behind the buttons on your Canon® EOS 60D DSLR camera.

  3. Display System
  4. Menu System
  5. Camera Operation
  6. Lenses and Accessories
  7. Next Steps


Tom Reyes

I am so thankful with this class, truly happy with my investment and privileged with the things I've learned. John Greengo knows photography like the back of his hand. He's way of teaching is basically the reason I got hooked with CreativeLive. Detailed, professionally done and given the right amount of time. Like him I'm a visual learner. Rather searching for the best free tutorials in Youtube, this class actually saved me loads of more time to learn Photography. Looking forward for more classes. I feel very confident now in handling my camera and in doing photography itself. Cheers!

a Creativelive Student

Thanks John for such a great class! I have been studying photography on my own for over a year and purchased my Canon 60D when I began, and I can say with confidence that I finally feel like I now have what I have been missing....a foundation to build on! I am no longer afraid to put my camera into Manual and get shooting!! I have taken the "Photography Starter Kit" and just finished your course on the Canon 60D, and both were very well organized and incredibly informative. I am a very visual learner and love the way you teach. Thanks again for a great start, and I will be watching more of your classes! Thanks Creative Live!

Sharon J

John Greengo is a fantastic teacher. He speaks clearly and gets right to the point--no mumbling or rambling in his courses. John's slides are nothing short of amazing. The only feature of the 60D that I would have liked more info about is back-button focus and shutter-release options. Having said that, I suppose it would have taken too much time to delve into that topic. That wee niggle aside, I thought the course was worth every penny. I would highly recommend any of John's courses.