Canon® 60D Fast Start

Lesson 4 of 7

Menu System

 

Canon® 60D Fast Start

Lesson 4 of 7

Menu System

 

Lesson Info

Menu System

Okay, so we are ready to get going again and now we're going to get started on the menu system in the camera and this is where a lot of features air quote unquote buried in the menu system and we're gonna go through the menu system kind of one by one and we'll talk about them as we get to them so let's go ahead and get started so the menu is obviously activated by pressing the menu button on the back of the camera and when you do that there are a number of tabs or pages of information the red indicate things that are affected by the shooting mode she's made the blue are things that are gonna be handled in the playback mode of playing your image back we have yellow for set up and orange for custom functions and then the final one is a green one called my menu that you get to customize exactly the way you want it to work now one thing you have to keep in mind is where your moda dial is set if you are in the manual modes aperture value time value program things like that that is the stand...

ard menu where you have all the options available to you if however you have your camera set to one of the more simplistic automatic modes you get a basic menu and this is where they take away a bunch of functions that are extra complicated that basic photographers may not want to get involved in. So in this case, you're going to want to be maybe in the manual mode. So we get access to all those features, and then very tricky among them at cannon. They have put some features in the movie menu mode, so you have to have your camera in the movie mode to activate those certain menus, and so we will be switching back on our mode, dial a little bit to get access to all of these menus. So let's get started on the basic menu. I have my camera in manual so I can get access to all the features and let me go ahead. And I'm gonna see if I can leave my camera him centered here. Hopefully, you can see it on screen, hit the menu and let me navigate to the first thing in the menu system. And the first thing up is the quality of the images you take. So I would imagine that if you spend a lot of money on a camera like this camera, you want to take good quality images, and this is where you can control the way the file formats are written to the memory card. The first option in here on the top, which is affected by changing the main dial, is what type of raw image you want to record whether you want to record one or whether it's going to be a full size draw a medium raw or a small rock in most cases if you want the best quality you would leave it on the largest of the ross which is just plain old raw now a little bit on the difference between raw and j p raw records all the original data from the sensor it is a larger file size but it contains all the true information that your camera records and will therefore give you the best quality option of recording your images it will leave you the most leeway working later on in photoshopped light room or any other program. The j peg is a compressed and consolidated format from what the from the information that comes off the memory card and so being processed and compressed it's goingto lose some data so the j peg files will be smaller and easier tto handle because of their size but the problem is is that they have lost some information and so if you did want to shoot in j peg I would certainly want to keep it in large raw which is thie far this column to the left besides the dash that'll get you the largest quality j picks now j pegs are more common when it comes to the internet and sharing pictures with friends through email and so forth so it's understandable wanting to shoot j peg, but if you have a good program like light room, you can shoot raw in the camera and make j pegs anytime you want or in this camera you can actually shoot one of each next up in the shooting menu on the first red tab is the beep and this is something that has been on on this camera and has been aggravating me a little bit. I hate that beep on my camera I liketo have my camera a little bit quieter and so you can go in and disable that beep so it doesn't make us much noise and I would recommend doing turning the beep off to disable next up is release shutter without card and if you go into this one, I would probably move it over to disable because if you don't have a memory card in the camera, your camera won't fire the shutter then if you like playing around with your camera without the memory card, you do the opposite. But for most people they want to be sure that they are not taking pictures with no memory card in the camera, so I for that I would turn it to disable next up is your image review and that is when you take a picture, how long does that image show up and you can choose anywhere from off too as long as you want on there and the standard setting of four seconds is about right. Next up is peripheral illumination correction this is ah little bit more complicated. This is an option that you can turn on and off so let's take a look at a visual example. One of the common problems with some lenses actually all ends is when you shoot him wide open is that there is a darkening of the corners we call this vignette ing and so this camera has a peripheral illumination correction which lightens up the corners and that is a good thing on some pictures for instance, these pictures of the pyramids it does improve the quality of the sky because it's even tonality in the sky but I'm not sure that you want to turn it on all the time. For instance here in a shot like this it's a natural vignette ing of the corners looks nice. It draws the attention more towards the center of the frame which makes sense and so it's not something I would necessarily turn on unless you specifically wanted it on a particular shot. This is something that you can do later in software as well. We also have red eye reduction on there and if you want the red eye reduction we talked a little bit about that that's where you would turn it on and off and then if you go into flash control, this is where a lot of features are within the flash control. So I'm going to go in there and you can see the first setting is flash firing enable, if you want to disable the flash, you could do it here built in flash function settings. And this is where most of the functions are kind of buried in here in the menu. And we can change the flash mode if we want to manual. For the most part, I would leave it in e t t l the shutter sink. We have the option of first and second curtain, and in this case, I prefer second curtain. But it's a personal choice on liking the flash synchronized with the second curtain. And this only really matters in very slow shutter speeds. Exposure compensation. This is something that we could do in the quick manulis is kind of a hard way to get to it, but you could do it if you want to. But I would, uh, potentially leave this at minus one the e t t l meter, the type of meeting system that it uses to measure the flash. I would leave that at evaluative, and then the wireless flash function enables you to work with wireless flashes, so if you have a cannon e x flash. What you could do is you can have the built in flash triggered the remote flashes in control, how much power they put out. That's a great feature to have. Unfortunately, we don't have time to get into hooking up multiple flashes, but it's a nice system to be able to use off camera flash. Just a quick clarification question from bobby and, uh, something else too, has been getting caused at all. Focal ing vignette ing is usually caused. Well, they can be caused it all focal legs. It is more noticeable with wide angle lenses, and it is something that is most prevalent when you have your lens wide open to its maximum aperture. And so many lenses will be suffering from a little bit of vignette ing when they shoot wide open or maybe one stop down from it. So if you have a lens that goes to f two point eight, two point eight will have a little bit of it. A little bit of vignette ing as well. Left four but it's usually gone by five point six. And so it is also especially common on very fast lenses. So if you have a fifty millimeter one point four lens for instance it's probably going to have some vignette ing at one point for and in some cases it's a good thing and in some cases it's a bad thing so that's something that you can turn on and off as need be okay so the next tab in the menu system and so as we move along here we're going to go to the second tab we have another page of information the first one is exposure compensation and auto exposure bracketing exposure compensation is more easily done just what the dial on the back of the camera but you also have exposure bracketing in here and what exposure bracketing is is when you want to take a picture actually several pictures that are both underexposed overexposed so you can have a whole series of pictures ranging from light to dark and you can adjust whether you have three pictures or more pictures taken like this and you khun also adjust the increments these are full stop increments minus one minus two minus three each letting in twice a ce much or half assed much light as the image next to it and so that's an option when you're not sure about getting the correct exposure is a good option to use but if you're also into hdr photography it's a way to quickly have the camera fire through a number of shots at different exposures next up is our auto lightning optimizer and this requires another visual example as well. One of the problems with photography in general is high contrast scenes, real brights and dark shadows. In this case, the picture is suffering from the fact that the people are lost in the shadows. This camera has an auto lightning optimizer, which basically raises the brightness of the shadows. It lightens up the shadows a little bit, and so this is what it looks like with it turned on, and you can see it on and off in this case looks a little bit better with it on, but once again, like the other feature I was talking about, I don't know that you want to leave this on all the time. Some images look better when there is good, strong contrasts and the shadows are dark and the lights are light and you want that contrast. And so whether you want to turn this on or off all the time, I don't know that I would be too quick to switching it on all the time, because this is something that you can fix later on in other software programs as well. Next up in this shooting tab is our picture styles in our picture, stiles this is on ly really going to be important if you are shooting j pegs and this allows you to go in and pick how your camera how your camera's images are processed you remember when I talked about jpeg images they are processed and compressed well part of that process is figuring out how much saturation the color tone, the contrast, and in here you can select different modes it's almost like selecting film in the days when we put film in our cameras. One of the things that you can do in here is you have user to find one, two and three and you can customize any one of these standards to work the way that you wanted to see you. Khun set the sharpness, the contrast, the saturation and the color tone in there and that's by going down to the user defined ones and then pressing the info button because it says right down there on the bottom info detail set. So if I pressed the info button I can get in and select that information myself. If you shoot raw, this is not important, but if you shoot j pegs in general, I would probably leave it at standard. And if you want to play around with some of the others, that might be fun to do with certain types of photography. Next up is the white balance and white balance affects the color that you shoot and so let's talk about the options that you can shoot in here we have automatic as well as a number of other settings depending on the type of lighting that you are in now the reason this is on the camera is that your camera doesn't always know what the true color of white is it might be a little more blue or green or scion or who knows what color and it's because we have different light sources and we know we have different sources that have different mounts of power but different amount of color is really important as well and so we have daylight cloudy and shade under natural lighting conditions that are all slightly different colors and then for artificial light we have tungsten fluorescent and flash which are once again different colors and you can set the camera to that particular color that you are photographing and so if you're in your home and it's lit by tungsten lamps so the traditional light bulbs or the complex compact fluorescent light bulbs that's going to be a more orange look and so you can set your camera two tungsten and it will record whites is true white in that case now the other settings that you have in here is you have a kelvin city if you happen to know the kelvin temperature that you're working in, you could set the camera very specifically to that number you could also custom set some thing and this is where you photograph a piece of paper and calibrate and have the camera calibrate off that white piece of paper there'll be more information in your instruction manual on how to do this but know that anytime that you're in a really unusual lighting condition you could get your white balance set perfectly by photographing a white sheet of paper and then going to the custom mode and registering that image and then finally you have auto white balance where your camera does the best job that it can at figuring out which white balance to choose and this is where I leave it most of the time because first off the camera does a pretty good job in my opinion but secondly I like to shoot in raw images and in raw images white balance doesn't matter because you can fix it later without any negative effects on your image and so if you shoot in raw this is I think one of the greatest benefits besides keeping a better file is that you don't have to worry about setting the white balance if you do shoot in j peg and you're getting unusual colors go into your white balance to make a change and change it to whatever setting that you are currently in custom white balance this is where you can go in and you can manually adjust the way your camera records maybe you're tungsten lights are a little bit different than everyone else's you can adjust for that color temperature for your needs specifically once again look at the instruction manual for more detailed information on that white balance shift in bracketing these airways that you can go in and just the white balance to your needs once again it's it's kind of like the previous custom white balance, but this is where you can do a bracketing siri's of pictures taken at different settings of love white balance if you shoot raw, you'll never need to use this and then finally color space color space is very important if you're shooting jape because it needs to know how to compress all the data into what colors and so if you are going to be shooting into j peg, I would recommend changing that to adobe rgb it's a a lighter color gamut it's not really gonna matter if you shooting raw because you're collecting all the data but you might as well go ahead and change it dobie rgb and collect as much data as possible. Moving over to the third red tab we have our dust delete data and what this is all about is that if you get your camera's sensor dirty there's dust on the sensor and you cannot clean it off you don't have access to a repair shop you're on vacation perhaps you could take a photograph of a white cheap sheet of paper at f twenty two and there's instructions in your instruction manual on how to do this and you can register that image with the camera, and then your camera will understand where there is dust, and it will try to figure out how to avoid the dust by cloning over those areas. And so it's something you don't want to do unless you absolutely have to. But it's an emergency reset. We had a question from one of our students before about can you control the so auto? And here is where you khun set the maximum so that your camera will go too, and if you don't want your camera to shoot above sixteen hundred you khun set sixteen hundred is the max so that it will go to I prefer not to use auto, I s so so this is not an important feature to me personally, but if you do use auto is so this is something that you can set that limit on the top end. The fourth menu of the red shooting section first option appear is live view shooting and if you don't like to use live you, you don't want to accidentally come on, you can completely disable it by going in and disabling it. I like to use it once in a while, so I'm going to leave it enabled. Next up is the auto focus mode and we have seen this in a couple of other areas when we talked about shooting with live you and this is where you can go in and change the mode the live mode is where I leave my camera most of the time it uses a little box to the center to use contrast to focus on our subjects it's slow but it does work there is the live face mode which is the second mowed down and in that case it's trying to select ah face to focus on and if you were working with people that may work out it's not something that I do too much so you'll have to see how well it works for yourself as to whether you like that the quick mode is actually a little bit faster and focusing but it is disrupting because the mere needs to pop down so that the camera can get to its standard auto focusing system and so for myself I'm going to leave it at live mode next up is a grid display and if you would like to see a grid in the live view mode this is where you could turn it on and off and they actually have two different grids depending on how tight of mish you would like to have on your grid pattern I kind of like it so I'm going to leave it on grid one aspect ratio the normal aspect ratio for this camera is three to two, but you can shoot in different aspect ratios if you want, you can select it here for most of the time, most people are going to want to have it in three to two, which is the standard default setting because you're capturing as much information as the sensor can grab. But if you wanted to shoot a square image, you would select one by one next up exposure simulation, and in this one, I would simply leave it at enabled so that your screen on the back will act and basically replicate or duplicate. I should say as a light meter, so if your screen is dark, that means you're not letting enough light. Next up is a silent shooting mode, leaving it on mode one is fine, we're not going to get into it too much, but I well slightly affect you. If you use mere lockup, it'll slightly reduce a vibration and sow when you use mere lock up and then we have meat. Oring timer how long do you want the mita ring system to stay active right now is at sixteen seconds, which is the default and that's a fine setting, but you can adjust it if you need to from here next up, we're gonna be looking at some of the movie menu settings. So in this case, we do need to flip back on our camera back to the movie mode, so I'm going to put back to the movie mode and then press menu, and we now have different options within the menu system and let's, look at these three different tabs that are different in the video mode for the movie mode, I should say first off is get through it, movie exposure asked about shooting in manual. Yes, you can shoot your movies in manual, but you do need to go in and selected here in the menu system. The next tab down is thie auto focus mode. Now we had just set the auto focus mode, but that was for live you! This is how it works when it's in the video mode, and so there is live you and video, which are very, very closely related, but you can independently select which focus mode you choose for that, but it's the same choices as in live you oughta focus with shutter button during filming, and so do you want to be able to use your shutter button to change focus while you are shooting video? As I said before, it's best to shoot video pre focused where you're manually focused ahead of time, so that you're not changing while you're filming part of the problem is that the built in microphone will pick up the noise and it's very slow and so this is something. If you shoot a lot of video, you'll have to see if you want to set it on your camera. A f admit oring button for movies, this allows you to customize a number of buttons on the camera for use while you're shooting videos. Take a look in there, see if there's something that you change each while you shoot videos I s o speed setting increments once again, this is for shooting videos you can get in there and you can change it to one third stop or one stop. I think the standard one third stop is fine for most people highlight tone priority. We're going to talk about this more. I'll go have a visual example when we get this in the camera section, but this will help preserve highlights, but there is some drawbacks to it. I would leave it disabled for now, okay, so we're under the second video tab and the first thing here is your movie recording size and here's, where you can read, choose how many pixels are recording each individual movie nineteen twenty by ten eighty is our standard full hd twelve eighty by seven twenty is hd, and then you have two smaller modes if you want to record smaller file sizes. Now, depending on what market you have your camera in whether it's, ntsc or pal you'll have the option of either thirty frames or twenty five frames or twenty four fifty frames or sixty frames per second depending on the mod that you have set up and so later on in this camera we're going to be setting it up for ntsc which is what we have here in north america or we'll set it up for power which is common in many other parts of the world and that will affect what frame rates are available to you when you go into this mode. If you want the best quality video, I would leave it at that top setting which is nineteen twenty by ten eighty next tab down is sound recording and if you want to get in and set the sound manually, you can do that right in here you can leave it at auto, which is if you wantto which is a good spot if you want to just keep it really simple and just used the camera is a very simple camera, but if you want to be a little bit more professional about it, you couldn't go in and record it manually and change the levels of record nina's well, next up we have silent shooting and this is something that's really only for stills but it's also showing up here in the video menu so, there's, nothing you really need to change about this. And the meter in timer. Same thing is before you how long the meeting stays activated and then as well. We have a grid pattern that we have selected from the main camera section. It's just also showing up in this menu as well. Okay, so the third tab in the menu for the movie mode is we have exposure compensation. If you want to go in and lighten and darken up the picture, you can do it here. I think it's more easy to do that on the back of the camera, but you can do it here if you need to. The auto lightning optimizer, which is something we talked about lightening up the shadow areas. If you want to have that take effect in your movies, you can turn it on and off here, the picture styles, which is the same thing that we dealt with in jpeg images. Now, when you shoot movies in this, the movies are compressed. There aren't raw movies, they're basically compressed movies. And if you want to have your pictures, have a little different. Look to him. You can go in, and you can adjust the look of your images by the contrast in the saturation of of your particular image. Once again, we have access to our white balance here, and we can also customize that white balance, which is the same as we saw in the shooting modes. So now we're going to go back into the more manual mode so that we can get back to the regular playback menu, enter in and turn it on over to the first of the two blue tabs not going to spend too much time on these playback menus. I think they're mostly explanatory, but just real quickly you can go through an individually, protect images and prevent them from being erased. You can rotate images that they looked differently on the back of the screen on the back screen of the camera. You can erase images individually. I find it easier to actually just hit the garbage can button when I'm playing back, but you can go into any race mode and select images to be erased. You can erase all images on a card as well, but I would recommend reformatting the card for that. We'll see that in the setup menu in a moment, the camera can be hooked up to a printer and print images, and this is one area there's, a lot of features and there's a lot of pages in the instruction manual that I am not going to get into very few people print directly from the camera, but if you want to, you can set up the size of prince and how many prints you want to get through the print order. There are created filters that you can u's on an image after you have taken it. This is kind of in lieu of having a computer or software program like photoshopped or light room. We're not going to spend too much time on it, but you can get in and manipulate and make copies of photographs to play with one of the other things that you can do in there that kind of in lieu of having a computer or software is you khun resize an image, you can shoot a large jpeg image and you could turn it into a small j peg image. If, for instance, you're trying to get a smaller file and get it off the camera without using a computer. You can also take a raw image and you can process it and turn it into a j pig right in camera, so it takes a ramage creates a duplicate file a jpeg file actually, which isn't exactly duplicate, but it creates another file that's a jpeg so that you have a quick small file that you could take right off the memory card. The second tab in the blue playback section has the highlight alert and here I have a little visual example of what the highlight alert if it is turned on looks like what it does is it takes any pixel that has completely blown out and it turns it black and turns it back white again so it blinks it you tow let you know that those pixels are completely blown out and it's a warning to any photographer that they're losing data potentially on the overexposure side of the image. So be careful if you see this it's not necessarily a bad image if you do that but it's not good for many types of images. So it's a good warning sign to see that you are overexposed my slide, john you like that one? I wasn't can slide, clyde, you noticed it really nice. Next up is a f point display and you can leave this enabled or disabled. This is when you play back an image. Do you want it to show you what areas your camera focused on? Personally, I leave this on disabled because I want to see the image more than where it was focused, but you can turn it on and off at your discretion, the history ram I would go in and change this two rgb so that when you play an image back, let me do this on camera and see if I have an image here and I'm gonna play back and I'm gonna hit the information button and I have the red, green and blue hissed a gram showing me information that shows me that I got a pretty good exposure. I'm not overexposed, and I'm not underexposed and so that's. Just a more graphic and easy way to see that I got the right exposure so I would change history. Graham to rgb. Next up is a slide show or excuse me image jump. Sorry about that. Get that upon screen. There we go. Image jump that is when you turn the main dial. Does your pictures jump by ten by one hundred by the date by different folders by movies by stills the back dial on the your camera will go from image tio to image. So if you want to change from the first image the second image, you simply rotate the dial on the back of the camera. The dial on the top of the camera. Well, generally jump you ten images, which I think it's a good standard. But if you want to change that, you can change how that main dial works in playback mode. You can set your whole camera up to act as a slideshow, and so you can. Go into the slide show mode here once again there's a lot more information in your instruction manual on how to set it up, for which images you show how long they're shown, how the images change from one image to the next but you can do it if you want to hook it up to a tv for instance, you can actually go in and rate your images in your camera now and when you do this it will show up in light room and bridge and other programs, so if you're out on vacation and you're stuck in the airport, you got nothing to dio and you took five thousand pictures on your last trip. Well, you could go through, sit down and start raiding all your image is right there in your camera and you can write them one through five stars control over htm if you're going to hook this up to an hd tv set, you can have control through a remote control, but you have to turn it on in your camera so most people are gonna be affected by this, but if you like to hook it up to a tv, you can have the tv's remote control some features of the camera, okay, so we're gonna move on to the setup menu these air, these gold or yellow wrenches and we're going to have three different tabs in here and these are just a lot of little features, some of which you may have no need for and some of them you might change once in the entire life of your camera. And so the first one is thie auto power off. How soon do you want your camera to go to sleep for saving power and you can go in and you can adjust this to make it longer than one minute if you need it to stay awake for a longer period of time, your choice on that next up is auto rotate and I would recommend a setting change from the factory defaults here. The first option is on your camera and on your computer, so it rotates verticals when you put the camera in the vertical position, your camera senses it's in the vertical position and it will rotate those images on the back here camera as well as in your computer. The problem with that option is that it makes the image is very small when you're playing the image back on the camera, so if you turn it on the computer, it'll switch when you download it to the computer, but when you look at it on the camera it will use the full screen real estate that you have to work with so you can see your image is better so I like it on computer only next up is format this is where you can erase and re initialize the memory card in your camera. I recommend recommend reformatting your cameras memory card before you go out on any important shoot. It gets rid of all the data, so you do need to make sure that you have safely downloaded all the data off the memory card. But this deletes all the information and gets rid of all the folders. Ghost images, deleted images that you deleted images that you've had on there, and so it's something that I do regularly before I go out on any important shoot to make sure that the card is in good working order it's better to reformat than to just delete images, and so I prefer not to delete it all in the camorra and will simply reform at once I have downloaded and have backed up my images so that I know they're in two locations file numbering I would leave this on continuous. I believe this is where it comes from. The factory images will count up up to a number of ten thousand you see when your camera shoots pictures that it gives it a file name and it starts off zero zero zero one and counts up to ten thousand and then goes back to zero zero zero one. This gets to be a problem if you shoot more than ten thousand images so you will want to rename your image is once you get him into the computer, if you take more than ten thousand images, but for now, continuous allows those numbers just to keep changing. If you need to change it, you can manually reset it back down to one or you could have it auto reset every time you put in a new memory card or reformat next up this select folder, you can actually create folders in here so that you could have pictures in different groups. Perhaps you have business and personal use, and you want to keep those pictures in separate folders on the memory card you can do that here, there is an option if you have a wireless card called an ai fi card, if that is plugged into the camera, you'll get another option down here in which enables you to turn I five features on and off. We don't have a knife I card in our cameras so it's not activated in our menu system right now. The second tab with the setup menu will control the lcd brightness. This is controlling how bright the screen is on the back here camera in general, I would leave this in the middle unless you're in a very bright light situation where you're trying to play back images for people who cannot see it in the bright sunlight there you could brighten the screen up a bit, but in general you want to leave it in the middle because it is also showing you the exposure that you're getting. If you are using manual or any sort of exposure compensation next up is dating time, make sure you have your time and date set appropriately for your location as well as your language. You can choose from many different languages on you would choose that right in here, the video system here is where you want to select ntsc or pal. So here in north america, united states, for instance, we use in tsc standard in I know in many places in europe and other places around the world they use pal, and by choosing this, you're automatically choosing which video frames per second you khun shoot. So if you are shooting in ntsc, that means you're going to be shooting at thirty frames per second or twenty four frames per second, and if you're shooting in, powell is going to be slightly different. Next up is sensor cleaning. We have some options in here you can clean now we have our cameras. Auto cleaning enabled cleaning now enables our camera to clean the sensor right here and now, since you have that activated on the on and off of the camera, there's, not too many times where you'll need to go in and clean it now one option is to clean manually, and this is something that you want to be very careful about. If you want to clean it manually, it locks the mirror up, opens the shutter, exposes the sensor so that you can get in with a special swab and cleaning solution to wipe it clean. You do need to have very steady hands. You need to be sure pretty sure about what you're doing because you don't want to damage the sensor, because that is a very, very expensive option to tryto get replaced on your own lock. Rear dial talked a little bit about this earlier, but on the back your camera there is this dial that some people accidentally bump and they want to turn off so you can enable the lock on this. And so the dia will not work under normal camera modes, and you have to press the unlock to get access to it. For most people, I would leave this at disable until you find that that is a particular issue. Uh, so just leave la career dial in disable. The third and final of the tabs for the setup menu is your battery information, and so I really like this model. This one because you can get in and you can get specific information about your battery and here you can see how many times you fired the shutter. How good is the battery? How much capacity is left it's much more detailed than the other places that give you information on the battery. Next up is thie information button on the back your camera is an info button. How much information do you want to see? And if you go into this I would go ahead and check off the camera settings, the levels and the shooting functions so that you could see all of these options in there if you want to you're not going to see him all at the same time, but you will have the option of pressing the info button repeatedly to see the ones that you do want camera user settings the sea setting on arm odile is the custom setting and what we would do is we would set the camera anyway. We want let's see if we wanted to set a manual exposure. We wanted to set a thousandth of a second at aperture f ate with a particular auto focus mode a particular drive mode at a particular I s o we would then go into our menu said setting and are camera user settings and we would register those settings and so now all of those settings would be locked into the see most so that when we turned it to the sea mode it would automatically be right back where we said it thousands of a second f ate at all our other particular settings and so if there's a a certain type of photography that you do on a regular basis said in all your best favorite settings and then lock him into the custom menu next up we have copyright information if you want you can put your name on your camera that way if it gets stolen and somebody says your name's not on it, you could say yes, it iss you can actually enter your particular name and you can enter copyright information about all rights reserved or whatever way you want to title things on your photographs and so this will be attributed to the metadata in your pictures. Now if you've been playing around in your camera and you want to clear all the settings that you've done, you can go in here and clear all the settings actually let me go ahead and I'm going to clear all the settings in mind because I've been playing around in this camera and we're going to clear all the settings and so everything that we've just been going through if you don't like what you did, you can kind of reset everything back to the factory defaults right there finally we have our firmware version firmware is thie software that runs the camera and from time to time they have updates from what came installed at the factory when the camera was made. Now the current version as of the recording of this broadcast is version one point zero point eight and if yours has anything less than this point seven point six something like that you should probably go to cannon's website and get the free download to update the software in your camera now they'll be more information in your instruction manual and at the website on how to do this but in reald general terms you go two cannons website you'll look for their drivers and downloads you will download the new firmware version for this camera which will download a file on your desk top you take that file and you transfer it to the memory card on your camera so you might either plug your camera into your computer or you might take your memory card and plug it into a card reader you transfer that file onto your memory card put the memory card in here and then come back to firmware version and press set to enter in new data and you can update it for free without sending your camera into any sort of repair facility so it's an easy way to keep your cameras with the most current firmware version next up we're going to be looking at the custom functions of the camera and these are a lot of different modes that you get to adjust to the way you like the camerawork and they're broken up into different groups we have exposure image, auto focus and dr kind of combined in one and then operations and others so let's go ahead and take a look through the custom functions and if you want to set your camera this is a good time to you just as we go through this exposure level increments it's the first one and on this particular one I would leave it at the standard third stop increments I think that's perfectly fine but you can change it toe half stop if you want the same thing with theis so speed setting increments you can leave this at third stops which is where I prefer to have it at but you can change it to have stops if you need thio eso expansion the highest I s so that you can set normally on this camera is sixty four hundred but you can expand it up to twelve hundred if you have this enabled now I don't want to take pictures at twelve thousand eight hundred but I want to be able to get to it if I want to do it so I'm going to turn it on on my camera so it allows me to use that without diving into the menu system if I really need to get to it next up is bracketing auto cancel. If you're the type of person that uses bracketing, do you want it to automatically turn off or do you want it to stay on after your shooting? For most people, I would just leave this on that way things automatically reset to normal after you shot a bracketing set exposure bracketing sequence you khun set exactly what gets shot first, a normal picture or a bright picture or a dark picture, and so you can go in and you can customize the way the bracketing shoots its siri's exposure safeties shift. I would leave this as disabled what's going on here when they get too out of my camera safety shift is if you are using a mode like time value or aperture value, and you have set something that your camera cannot handle. Do you want your camera to kind of go around and fixed the little problem that you had it's something that I will generally not use but you can play with and see if it's something that you like exposure flashing speed in the a v mode? This will help direct us to what shutter speeds you can use when you are in the aperture value mode and using flash I think the standard auto setting is fine for most people. All right, custom function group number two dealing with image quality. We only have three things in here, and the first of those is long exposure noise reduction. They talk about the second one is well, hi, I s o speed noise reduction in your camera. We talked a little bit about ourselves when you shoot a lo es lo es el, you have very good totality, ease and smoothness in your tones. When you go to ojai, I s so you get this noise or grain factor? Well, the camera has a built in processing system where it will try to process this information and make it better. If you don't have any post processing software, this might be a good option to use. If you're using a program like, like light room or many other different programs out there, you can probably do this better in software on your computer. So it's not something that I'm going to turn on on my camera on, and you may want to figure out what works best for you as to whether you want to turn that on or not now highlight tone priority is something we saw back in video, but here I have a visual example for you, all right? So this image here has some very, very bright highlights. In fact, they're lost details in those highlights if we had the highlight tone priority turned on, we might get some of that detail so you can see there's a little bit more detail in the right hand photograph in those highlights. Now, once again, this is something that you could do with software, especially if you shoot with a raw image. But you can have it done in camera if you want. This is where you would turn it on. Personally, I would probably recommend leaving this as disabled because one of the disadvantages of turning this on is that you can't shoot at s o one hundred anymore. And I think that's a major disadvantage so I would leave that disabled all right. So custom function group number three dealing with auto focus and drive here we have five different things that we can adjust, and the first of those is lens drive. When autofocus is impossible, I would leave this at the standard continue search where the camera will continue to search and find for something in focus. If this is a problem, you could always switch this to stop searching a f point selection method, and this is choosing how auto focus points are selected. I think the standard setting, which is with a zero under there, which is the normal setting, is fine superimposed display. And here this is displaying autofocus information when you are taking pictures and lets you know when you select all the brackets which areas air being focused on and I think the standard on a f points turn red is going to be fine on this one. Next up is the auto focus assist beam firing and on this one I told you about the little light in the front of the camera do you want that to come on when there's not enough light to focus if europe paparazzi and you don't want anyone to notice that you have a camera try to take a picture of somebody you definitely want to turn this off it could be a little annoying in some situations if you're going to be safe photographing a speaker who's looking at this like constantly coming on you might want to turn it off it's not very powerful it's not going to reach more than a couple of meters and so if you want to keep ahh lower profile you might want to turn it off mere lockup near lock up on this camera is for enabling you to go in and lock the mere up so that you can shoot very still pictures without any mere vibration coming up during the shot you can lock it up ahead of time and this is only a problem at certain critical shutter speeds but there is a visible difference between standard operation of the camera and using mere lockup and I would say the key shutter speed is probably one eighth of a second in and around one eighth of a second give or take, probably three shutter speeds. You're likely to get some vibration movement from the mere moving the actual camera around. And so by using mere lockup, you khun gain maximum sharpness. Next up is group for general operations and a few other things. Ah, first thing in there is your auto focus. They excuse me first thing in there is your auto focus and metering buttons. This is where you can get in and customize a number of buttons on your camera. I'm not goingto get into this too long, but if you would like to customize that f on button on the back here camera, if you want to turn that auto, focus on your shutter release off, this is where you do it, and you can customize three different buttons on your cameras to work exactly as the way you want it to work. Next up, the set button on the back here camera when you're in the normal shooting mode, it really doesn't do anything, and if you want to go in and have it, do something in particular, well, you khun, assign that here and customized that button. The dial direction, in my opinion, the dial direction on canon cameras is reverse of what they seem to be. When you look at the exposure dial and you push the dial this direction, the indicator goes the other direction, and so I like to go in here, and I like to go reverse direction on for anyone who uses an icons that switching over that's, the direction nikon uses, but I like reversing the directions of the dials. It makes things a little bit more intuitive for me when I'm working on the camera. Next up is the focusing screen. Somebody wrote in with a question about a scratch. Folks is focusing screen, and I was confusing this with a different camera and this camera, you can change the focusing screen, and so they can go buy a new focusing three. So I apologize for that miss information. I was confused and made a mistake. We have very bright lights here, and I get confused and you even schooled in the purse jokingly, you know, a lot of cameras, john hardy now, and so in this camera you can change the focusing screen. It is kind of buried in there and it's not really easy to change, but you can buy a replacement or a different focusing screen. The reason they have this is that the cameras focussing screen that it hasn't it is not really good for manual focusing and if you want to get in and change that yourself you can change that ad image verification data kanan has some software some verification software that can prove that the image you took was taken without any manipulation at a particular time so if you want you can add this but you do need to have the software that goes along with us for this to really be important all right undermine menu let's go to my menu in here, which is that final green setting and in here actually I've already gone in and played a little bit with mine me just clear my camera up here just for a moment so under my menu settings in here, you will have the potential for setting some I fi settings if you have a knife I card in here, but for most people just going into my menu settings will open up another sub menu and this is where I recommend going in and choosing the few things that we have just talked about for the last hour or so and picking which are your favorite things and registering them to my menus what I'm going to do in my camera right here is I'm going to register a few features that I think are really good to register to my menu and I'm going to get this long list of all the features that the camera could dio and I can add those in if I want, I'll see what I want a lot of features in here format is something I do on a regular basis. I start a new shooting session and I want to reform I met reformat my memory card, so I'm going to add that in I'm going to look through here. What else do we have? Battery information is also something I like to have access to to get good information about how good my battery is and then let's see what else do we want to do in here? Lots of different options there's mir lockup I oak occasionally use mere lock up to get the sharpest pictures possible, so I'm gonna lock that in now when I hit menu, I'm going to go back and I'm going to display from my menu. I'm going to change that to enable that way whenever I press the menu button it's going to start at the green, my menu and the things it's going to show or the things that I just selected format battery info and mere lockup. Now one of the options I have is I can sort through these items, I don't want format to be the first item I wanted to be the third item I can go to sort and I can take for matt and I can move it down to the third item and then press the menu and so now when it shows up format is thie third option that I have to choose from so I would recommend that you go in and select what do you have about five or six of your favorite settings? Lock him in there enable things from my menu that way, whenever you hit the menu button, you're just going to go to the few things that you use most of the time, I think there's a real handy feature, and I have it activated on my camera, for sure. So this is the end of the menu section. S o we're going to start looking for questions from our live audience to see questions about the menu, and this is pretty much everything about the camera we have discussed at this point. Uh, so a lot of those features that we've been delaying have been addressed here in the menu system, but I'm sure there's additional questions on little bits of features that we have gotten into as always so let's uh, let's go, you want teo zio, right? Okay, go ahead. So shasta just asked how many my menu items can you add? I believe six is the total number of items that you can add, you can add less, but not more and could you maybe would like to know if you could again talk about what the a f assist being firing a facist beam firing is this light right here on the front and it will come on in shine under low light conditions and the thing is is that it's not very powerful and so if you turn it off it's really not a big deal I would probably turn it off on this camera just because if the camera is a hard time focusing I would probably switch over to manual focus and manually focus rather than trying to send the auto focus back and forth back and forth trying to focus shining a light in my subjects eyes so it's just a tiny built in flashlight if nothing else r s v p had asked earlier what's I fi if I cz like a wifi wireless transmitting card so rather than storing data to the card itself it'll transmit it to a nearby computer g two had asked earlier with regard to exposure bracketing how do we get images with five different exposure settings as opposed to thaw three using a five fifty d r sixty right? Well, you know, I believe that I may have done a visual example that could apply if you wanted to set it at different areas and so I believe you are limited let me go check this out real quick to just three images yes you are just set to three images but that's what it would look like because you could do a set of three images that are one stop apart and you could do him two stops apart and five stops apart to get those more extreme bright or dark images so you could only shoot three at a time okay and and habit had asked if you could uh ask again how you can do that where to do it set it up to do that the auto shoot of the three photos okay it's in the second tab of the shooting menu and it's at the very top called expose oh expo comp a b and so you'd press set to go in there you turn the top main dial to choose how wide a very you want to go and so here we are doing one stop exposures there's two stops and there's three stops if we go into an aperture valium oh because I was in manual let's see if we can change this and now we can use the back dial to shift these pictures so if we wanted to take six pictures we could do a three stop brackett all on the underside and then three stop brackett all on the plus side and so there's a lot of versatility on where you had set that up and then you would know it set by the three little marks in the exposure area and so when we take a picture it's going to take three pictures of different shutter speeds to get different brightness is on those pictures lot had asked if auto rotate only works for shooting stills auto rotate well movies on this they're going to be rather difficult in vertical uh and I haven't tried that I have no interest I've always alright I've actually dreamed of filming a vertical movie about like climbing el capitan and you know it being a special theater with a you know, vertical screen but it's just very difficult to shoot vertical video uh so I haven't played with that but go ahead have some fun that could be interesting like a good dream um hum, it had asked you said twelve minutes at full resolution with regard to video does it change at smaller resolution if you go all the way down to the smallest resolution which I believe is six forty by four eighty you could get double the amount of time check your instruction manual for exact specifications, but that was my best recollection lindy's lindy's had asked, can you print from from raw files using something besides raw image processing or resize? Well, you could print a raw image from the camera just using the print function in the camera so you don't need to change it to a j peg to print it yeah but you can use you can't really send raw files off teo well, I think what's going to happen it's it's gonna process it and make its own print file that it sends out, but you don't need to go in ahead of time and change it to a smaller j peg file. You could I haven't gone into the print function because I have a computer I know kind of fancy in that regard, but I would much rather use my computer to size my images and get him ready to print than to print directly from the camera. It's it's an option that they build in there, but very few people use so that then color cracked and or is it boosting the color somehow? It's it's sizing it? Okay? And who knows what it's doing everything else? What would it print had dollar color? Well, you could potentially go in taken image, turn it into a j peg and then you could process it in the camera. I mean, this is photoshopped in the camera and you could go boost the color and saturation and tweak it a little bit. So there's a lot of options that you can do in there, it's just that you're you got very limited tools that you're working with here versus a computer and something like photoshopped or any basic photo editing program maybe we can have a class on that or we could make our little video later. I don't have a computer doing everything with your camera um I'll be had asked if you can show an example of creative filters created filters I'm not really going to get into him they are options that you can go in and change the look of a photograph after you've taken it, this is once again the substitute for photo shop or any photo program it's got some kind of weird ones in there let me see if I can go in actually I'll just go in in show where is this creative filters look att let's look at some of the options in there um, lips pressed the right button, working on help I've been shooting and raw and it will only work with j peg images right now so let's see if I can get this to work right still here we can change from grainy black and white soft focus toy camera effect a miniature effect and I tell you what, I'm going to take a picture of kenna and susan right here and we're going to turn him into a miniature okay, so I was talking you were talking, but that's fine it's still cute, okay, so we're gonna play that image back actually, we're going to go into the creative filters there's our image I gotta press the set but we can choose with a grainy black and white a soft focus the toy camera effect we're gonna go with the miniature effect and we're going to press set and we're going to select which area the image that we wanted focus and we want their eyes and focus of course and it's going to throw everything else mohr out of focus and we're going to set that we're going to save that as a new file and there's our new image gave us a new file number and so let's go back and forth between the original image and here you can see this area in the bottom of the screen hopefully you can see me on this camera is nice and sharp and we go to the new toy camera effect it's darker and fuzzier it doesn't it doesn't make him look miniature so it didn't completely work in this case but it it is a creative filter that you can use on the camera once again it's something that you could do much more easily I think in photo shop but hey it's right here in your camera and if you want to do it in there it does it I just want to point out the griffin in the chat room says that for for shooting video and vertical the cannon software included with the camera will rotate the video for you really okay yeah just want to throw the advent of interesting thank you there's an answer for everyone's questions yes there's some conversation going on around the file naming and the prefixes and etcetera were talking about that s o malley photos question is is it possible to change the file name in prefix on the images say if I shoot a wedding with two sixty gs and I want to know which images came from which camera when I'm sorting through them in post who know there is it there is with they're one d mark something siri's eso there one d s mark three for instance won the mark for you can go in and you can change the naming on the files but here you can with a program like light room though you can pull up essentially the serial number of the camera that shot the picture and you can separate it in that way and so that's a good programs because you're going to light room you can separate those images and put him in different folders um do to it also asked when when when you for meant the card why does the image number change even when the file numbering is continuous thie image say that again when we form at the card why does the image number change even when the file numbering is continuous? Okay file number is continuous so if you take one hundred pictures and you reformat the memory card. The next picture that you take will be one hundred and one so it's continuous it remembers the last number that it recorded and then it continues from there and so that's a good system to have because of every time you reformatted the card you would start off taking picture zero zero zero one in your computer system will be filled with pictures with zero zero zero one and that could cause a problem having too many files with the same number on it and so continuous is better because you're less likely to have duplicate numbers thank you, clady, seventy nine, asked what do you see in one toe, one mode in the viewfinder? I think this is when we're talking about the framing yeah framing yeah it'll block it off in the lcd display let me see if I can find that mode so the aspect ratio I think it's what they're talking about let's go ahead and change this two one two one so in this mode when I looked through the viewfinder it looks exactly the same as normal there's nothing to indicate that anything has changed, but if I go to the live you mode, we can see a couple of crop bars on the left and on the right indicating what a square images I can see outside of that area as well but I'm not going to be recording that, so when I shoot a picture I'm only going to get what's in the middle of that frame and so I end up with a square image so you gotta be real careful about shooting those images because you got to be really sure that's what you want? Um john does some clarification for tara cobra um jess, can you explain how the spot meeting area function works? Not not how to turn it on, but what the cameras actually doing right? And so the spot metering is me during a very specific area in the center of the frame, and, um, I'm not sure if camera behind me can really catch what's going on on the screen here, but I'm pointed at one of our lights here and depending on how close that light is to the center of the frame is changing how much our shutter speeds and raptures are changing. Let me go to go ahead and change this too spot metering uh oh, not available during live you this could be a new thing I have may not have realized that so let's change this to spot metering, then go back into live you and see if it oh, so I just learned something you can't use spot majoring in life you so I can't show you what it's going to sorry about that even john gringo learned something new is in his own class wow and no one no one asked that question you can you use spot metering in live you know you can't but spot metering in evaluative metering if you think about the whole frame that you get it's using I forget how many points I think sixty three different points measuring light how light and dark everything is in its comparing and contrasting those lights and dark areas and so if you have one thing that's kind of bright and yellowish up in the corner and maybe the sun it's going to take that into account that it's not up taking up the whole frame and it's likely the sun and it's just one point when you have the spot meter activated it's just looking at what's in the center of the frame if you point that centre at the sun it's going to cause your meter to go very much toe one end indicating that you need to adjust shutter speed and aperture to get the exposure set on that properly spot meter is a is a very very a sharp edged tool you might say you need to be very careful about using it and so in general I would leave it in evaluative especially as you're beginning but a spot meter tool can be very very handy for determining correct exposure you can point it for instance at a cheek of ah portrait of portrait session to get the light coming off of that particular cheek and you can adjust your sutter speeds and apertures to make sure that that skin tone comes out properly that way your camera's not looking at either very dark, very light clothing that that could be worn and could be misleading the meter reading so it's a way to get a very accurate reading but you need to be very careful about where you pointed out write a question from um claire of r a was is it better to crop your image on your computer than to use the alternate aspect ratios in the camera? Yes, I think it's much better to crop it on the computer I think a program like light room and I'm sorry if I sound like I'm working for adobe or something trying to sell this program not I just use it and it's a really nice program when you shoot in raw you can create as many different versions a sze yu want of a particular image if you think it would look good in panorama as well as the way you shot it and you think it would look good as a square you can create multiple copies without ever damaging the original and that's the best system no matter what program you use is that you have an original image that you have not damaged and that you can create as many versions of that little versions that are a little bit different, as you want, with any change you want to it, whether it's, cropping, color or anything else, and so that would be a better system, I think, then cropping in camera, doctor blind had asked the geo tag option in the menu. There is no geo tech option menu in this in this camera on what that is, because I have no idea if you want to hook up a gps system to record where you were when you took certain pictures, it is possible to do. But none of the features and functions of this camera really help that along. There are devices that you could hook up a gps unit to the remote. When you take a picture, it sends a signal to the gps unit that it took a picture you would need to download two different sets of data and then piece them together. Teo indicate that this picture was taken and you must have been here because this is when it recorded the picture being taken. So you have to have the clocks synchronized in here, as well as the gps unit. For a lot of people like myself, it's just too much stuff to deal with to make it very easy someday we'll probably have gps units. In our cameras that are recording all that information very easily without any extra bulk er gadgets attached to the camera but right now there's there are some cameras out there that you can add attachments to a little bit more easily it's not something that cannon has put in this camera cnn is in antarctica no, I'm more of a maps a compass type guy myself but that would be a good place to use something like that is a quote that you have a mountain compass is kind of guy that would be a good on any continent that would be a good place yeah yeah if you want to record you know, particular shots were taken and there's a lot information on the internet you know, tagging exactly where to go to get this particular arch with the sun setting in this position. Ok, thank you. So I had a question from latte out and he says I was wondering if you can shoot stills or video with a pc connection see the lcd on the laptop screen and it continued like using capture and x two of nikon but with this camera it is very useful when shooting hdr well, I haven't tried it yet, but I would believe that you could hook this camera up to the computer, put it in the live you mode and have that connected up basically threw the hd mic cable showing you the performance of the camera might be kind of slow, whether that's, auto focus or downloading the images, because it's not just sending it to the memory card, but it's it's sending it through the usb port to the computer. It might take a few seconds for the computer to capture that, but I know light room has a live capture mode that you can use, and there is some other software that you can do that with, and so it can be done. But it's kind of slow, okay, and pj frank had asked earlier topic of j peg and raw, um, is there really any advantage of j peg to raw, other than size? So would there be a reason why you would be shooting j peg it's, just that j picks other than size it's, just that it's really common? And so if you're going to sand your friend and email them a picture that you took, you probably don't want to send him a raw image because they may not have the computer in the software to read it. So you want to shoot raw on my pink, but you'll convert to j peg for those types of things that you send out, and so a lot of people shoot j pegs because they're kind of scared about raw but it's something that if you want to get the best quality, image out your camera, it's something that you should investigate and experiment with. And trikes. I think you'll like it.

Class Description


Join John Greengo for an in-depth step-by-step tour of the Canon® EOS 60D. With a hands-on introduction to your camera's operations, detailed instructions on how all the menus work, and easy tips on how to shoot great photos with this specific camera model.

Lessons

  1. Introduction
  2. Button Layout

    Get an in-depth guide to all of the features behind the buttons on your Canon® EOS 60D DSLR camera.

  3. Display System
  4. Menu System
  5. Camera Operation
  6. Lenses and Accessories
  7. Next Steps

Reviews

Tom Reyes
 

I am so thankful with this class, truly happy with my investment and privileged with the things I've learned. John Greengo knows photography like the back of his hand. He's way of teaching is basically the reason I got hooked with CreativeLive. Detailed, professionally done and given the right amount of time. Like him I'm a visual learner. Rather searching for the best free tutorials in Youtube, this class actually saved me loads of more time to learn Photography. Looking forward for more classes. I feel very confident now in handling my camera and in doing photography itself. Cheers!

a Creativelive Student
 

Thanks John for such a great class! I have been studying photography on my own for over a year and purchased my Canon 60D when I began, and I can say with confidence that I finally feel like I now have what I have been missing....a foundation to build on! I am no longer afraid to put my camera into Manual and get shooting!! I have taken the "Photography Starter Kit" and just finished your course on the Canon 60D, and both were very well organized and incredibly informative. I am a very visual learner and love the way you teach. Thanks again for a great start, and I will be watching more of your classes! Thanks Creative Live!

Sharon J
 

John Greengo is a fantastic teacher. He speaks clearly and gets right to the point--no mumbling or rambling in his courses. John's slides are nothing short of amazing. The only feature of the 60D that I would have liked more info about is back-button focus and shutter-release options. Having said that, I suppose it would have taken too much time to delve into that topic. That wee niggle aside, I thought the course was worth every penny. I would highly recommend any of John's courses.