Picture Style Menu
Page three in the shooting menu starts off with the picture styles. We saw this in the quick menu again. We did a little demo of how you can go in to the Info Detail set and you can go in and control the specifics of how your image is being recorded on the jpeg images. So if you want to go in and give it a little boost of contrast or reduce the contrast 'cause it's easier to work with later, you can do so in here. Long exposure noise reduction deals with reducing the amount of noise during a long exposure. If you shoot a 30 second exposure, for instance, the camera will then do a second processing of that image, which takes 30 seconds. Now as somebody who enjoys nighttime photography and doing 15, 30 second exposures, I found it kind of frustrating that once you shoot a picture you can't do anything for quite a while. You gotta wait. And I'm wondering how much good does this do so I decided to put this camera through the test on its long exposure noise reduction. I'm shooting a 30 seco...
nd exposure with it turned off and then with it turned on and I went in to look at the details and I don't see any notable difference at all here. There's no significant difference between them and it's simply taking up more time doing that processing. So I'm thinking it's best to turn this off. If you wanna test it yourself, maybe it's different under the conditions that you shoot but I found that it's just not necessary to leave this turned on. On top of that, it doesn't really do anything if you're shooting raw, it's only a jpeg feature that it's affecting. High ISO speed noise reduction. So this is kind of the same thing. If you shoot at high ISOs, you're going to get more noise. That's guaranteed. Do you want the camera to go in and try to fix that problem? All right, once again only with jpegs, and so the first test is at ISO 12,800. The first option is leaving it turned off and then how much do we get it with low, standard, high and there's also a multi shot mode where if you have the camera on a tripod, the camera will shoot multiple shots in order to kind of take the best data from all the images. As far as my line of thinking goes, if you have your camera on a tripod and you have the time to shoot multi shots, you should probably just set a lower ISO and a longer shutter speed because anything that's moving is going to look different and not look good in a multi shot and so I don't think there's a lot of great purposes for multi shot. If you are shooting jpegs and you do want to try to reduce the noise in those jpegs, I could see leaving it set on standard. The high setting starts to mar the details a little bit too much. If you were not printing very large I could see going to high but I would probably think about keeping it on low or standard if you shoot in jpegs. Let's take a look at 51,200 where we'll see these effects even more clearly. You can see that the higher settings definitely do reduce the amount of noise but they are also reducing the edge detail and the sharpness that we're seeing. So there is definitely a balance. Now if you choose not to do any sharpening at all that's fine as well because there's a lot of software programs like Photoshop and Lightroom as well as ones from other manufacturers that allow you to go in and reduce noise afterwards. You can do so according to the needs of that particular photograph so you might be able to do a much better job with the right software and the knowledge on how to do it. So in this case I would probably keep it at standard or low as well just because it gets a little heavy handed on those high settings. Highlight tone priority. I mentioned this briefly in the viewfinder, the little D plus that can come on when this feature is turned on. When you're shooting jpegs what this does is it disables the use of ISO 100. It underexposes everything you're shooting and then corrects for it so that you see a proper exposure and it does so in order to protect the highlights from getting blown out. It's something that only works with jpegs. I generally don't recommend it because you can't shoot at ISO 100 anymore. If you are having a problem with your highlights getting blown out and you are having to shoot jpegs, then this would be a solution for that problem. Dust Delete Data is a way of analyzing this sensor dust that you may have on your camera. If your shooting photos and it looks like this one, it is a very dirty sensor that you have and you wanna correct for that. So what the Dust Delete Data does for you is you need to shoot a white piece of paper. The camera can then map out where all those dust specks are and then it can clone it out of the final images. Now in order to do this you do have to use the Canon software. There is additional information from Canon about how this works but you do have to use their processing software in order to get this to work.
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