Shooting Menu Page 1
Let's go head and get started. At the top of the system, which is gonna be in the shooting menu, page one. First item up is image quality. If this seems familiar, it is because we talked about it in a previous section under the quick menu where we also had access to changing image quality, and so, the more serious photographer is gonna wanna set it to RAW. You will need software to look and work with your images, whether it's from Cannon, Adobe, or someone else, or you can shoot .jpeg, and if you're gonna shoot .jpeg, you either wanna shoot in large, fine quality .jpeg, or if you know that you need something smaller, you know that you're gonna be posting a small image online, you'd never need it for anything more than that, you could shoot a medium or small size, either to have it ready right out of camera, or to save up a little bit of storage space. But as you see here and in the recommended settings .pdf handout, I will be issuing my recommendations as to what I think would be a bet...
ter setup than the way the camera naturally comes. I'll be making my general recommendation for your typical user in gray, and sometimes they'll be an advanced one in red. So, sometimes, I'm not really sure as to, it kinda depends on how you wanna set your camera up. A little bit more manual control, a little bit more automatic control, or different types of settings there, so be aware that those are my settings. Image review, when you take a photo, do you want to see the image on the back of the camera? If so, for how long? For most people, two seconds is gonna be fine. You can adjust it according to your needs. If you wanna save battery life, you can turn it off. So, if you have forgotten to put a memory card in your camera, do you want to be able to fire the shutter release? And so for most people, I would say turn this off. This is a good way just to make sure that you know for sure that you do not have a memory card in your camera. Who would wanna leave it enabled? If you worked in a camera store, and you wanted to show people how the camera sounded like, and what it felt like when the shutter fired without putting a memory card in, that would be a perfect reason for it. Lens aberration correction. So this is the first of many different features that we're gonna talk about that affect only .jpeg images. So if you shoot RAW, you don't need to worry about going in here and adjusting anything, but there's a good chance that we're all gonna shoot .jpeg at sometime, so it's probably better to get it set right now and not worry about it later on. So, this controls with different lenses, it reads the specific lens and it controls a number of the image quality factors imperfections with lenses, and I'm sorry. Did I just offend some people there? Lenses are not perfect. All lenses have slight flaws. They're not huge flaws, but they're slight flaws. For instance, peripheral illumination correction deals with darkening of the corners, vignetting effect. And this happens on a lot of faster lenses, like that 50 millimeter 1.8. I like it. It's a great lens, but it has a little bit of vignetting when you shoot at 1.8. If you turn this on, it will correct for that. It'll basically brighten up those pixels, but the fact of the matter is, is a lot of serious photographers like that vignetting effect, and so they leave it turned off on their cameras. Next up is chromatic aberration correction. So chromatic stands for color, aberration is a ghosting, and when you have a light background in front of a solid subject, sometimes the light is kinda wraps around that subject. Doesn't come out quite right. Doesn't hit the sensor quite right, and you get these colors, whether they be kind of greenish or reddish around these subjects, and this is the chromatic aberrations. And the camera knows how bad each lens' chromatic aberration is, and can fix it. And to date, I haven't met anybody that likes chromatic aberration, and so this is something that would be wise to turn on and let the camera fix that sort of problem, at least in the .jpeg images. Distortion correction is something that might be something you encounter with wide angle lenses, so as an example, this image is slightly distorted. Can you see that horizon line? Yep, it's a little distorted. Let's correct it, alright? So the camera will know how much distortion each lens has, and can automatically correct it for the .jpeg images in there. Now, if you really like distortion, I highly recommend a fisheye lens. For all the other cases, I think most people will probably want to correct for that distortion correction in this case. Diffraction correction. When you take a lens and you stop it down to f/22, for great depth of field, let's say, in a photograph like this, you have things in the foreground, and things in the background that you want in focus. When you stop it down to f/22, it's not really sharp because of diffraction, so the camera can automatically sharpen and kind of correct for that in the .jpeg images, and it seems to do a pretty good job, and so this is something that I feel comfortable recommending leaving turned on. I'm not sure who would want to leave it turned off, but I think most people will be happy leaving that turned on, and these are the types of things that you can just leave set for the rest of the time that you own the camera. It's highly unlikely that you'll need to come back and change it on any sort of regular basis. Next up is lens electronic manual focus, and so, on many of the lenses, you cannot manually focus until it's actually in manual focus, and what this enables you to do, is it allows you to automatically focus, and then allows you to grab the focus ring and manually focus. And, so this is gonna be a highly limited selection of lenses, and so, it's gonna be the STM lenses, like these 18-135 I have on my camera now. It's also gonna work on some of the really big, white lenses that have an electronic fly-by-wire focusing system, but those are much less likely to get mounted on this caliber of camera.