Shooting Menu Page 2
Second page in the shooting menu, exposure compensation and audio exposure bracketing, and either you can do exposure compensation by turning the dial, I believe it's the back dial back and forth to do under or over exposure, and kind of a long way to get in here and do that but you can also do exposure bracketing, and I believe this is done by turning the front dial on the camera, and so what you're doing here is you're setting the camera to shoot up a series of photos, lighter, normal, and darker, or vice versa, and so that way you can quickly shoot trough a series of photos at different exposures. Flash control. All right so if you are using the built in flash or you're using an add-on flash this is where you can go in and control the mode and operation of the camera. And this is one of the first, what I would call rabbit holes in the menu system, and so it's one item that's gonna lead to another set of menus, and that's gonna lead to another set of menus. So just be prepared for di...
ving deep into the flash system here. So when you dive into dive control the first thing is controlling the flash firing, normally if you don't want the flash you would just push it down and not have it fire it, but if you want it to leave it left up perhaps because it was in some sort of housing or mounted someplace and you don't have access to it you could disable it electronically from the menu system, unlikely that it's necessary. You could change the way that the E-TTL metering system works in the camera, the evaluative should good for most people under most situations, but if it's not working for you there is an alternate method called average. The flash sync speed. What shutter speed do you want the camera to fire when it's firing the flash. If you set it to auto it may use a very long shutter speed and you'll have to be very steady holding the camera and that would not be appropriate in certain action situations or where there's lots of movement. But it could be very cool depending on the type of effect your trying to get from it. So they do have an option of 1/60 to 1/200 sec which is I would consider kind of normal regular shutter speeds that are not extremely long or short. You also have one where it's just fixed at it's maximum shutter speed which is 1/200 sec. And so I like the auto option for most situations, but you may need to change it out to one of the other options if it's not appropriate for the type of action that you're shooting. For using exclusively with the built-in flash here is our next sub-menu within a menu, so we're gonna dive in and talk specifically about the built-in flash. And so you can have it firing normal firing or you could also have it a wireless system. And I apologize, I am not gonna go into a full dissertation on how to use this camera with remote flashes. There is extra Canon flashes that you can get, you can get them to trigger remotely and there is a number of connections that you can do between them because you can fire them in group, and you can control the power ratio between them, it's a bit more complex than we wanna get to in this class, but it is available for those of you who are interested. For the built in flash we do have our flash mode the camera wants to use evaluative-through the lens metering system, and this is where it's measuring multiple parts of the frame comparing the ambient light in the flashlight, and it does a darn good job, and so that's just what it's using. The shutter synchronization you can synchronize it with the 1st curtain or 2nd curtain. The camera comes set standard to 1st curtain, and for a lot of moving subjects it's the 2nd curtain that works very well. And so you'll need to play around with that a little bit to see which works best for the types of action that you're shooting. Exposure compensation, we talked about this before in the quick menu and I recommended turning this down a little bit so that the flash is not firing at full power. So a lot of photographers like a setting of -2/3, 1 stop, or maybe -1/3 or somewhere in that range just to power the flash back a little bit. I think of it as spice on your food, you want a little bit, but not too much, and the same with flash, power it down a little bit for a more pleasing look. All right continuing on the regular flash controls, if you hook up one of the externals flashes to the camera there's gonna be a lot of controls on the flash, then you can control those flash functions directly through the menu system of your camera. It communicates with your camera, you could do it on the flash or you could do it in the camera. And it's gonna depend on which flash you hook up, and some of those flashes have custom functions and you can go in and control those and see what those are a little bit more clearly on the back of your camera. So if you do have one of those external flashes put it on and these last two modes will then activate. So that is the flash control menu. Next up is red-eye reduction, and so the camera fires multiple stroboscopic disco-esc flash when it's firing in order to reduce red-eye, and what it does is it fires a bright flash into the pupils of your subjects eyes and that causes the pupils to constrict and get smaller, which will reduce red-eye, but it's got two aspect to it that I don't like. Number one is, delays the timing of the shutter release, and secondly it shines a bright light in your subject's eyes and that's both distracting and disturbing. And so what happens when your shooting kids sometimes is you'll fire this strobe light at them, they will think that's the photograph and then they'll be off onto the next thing, and you'll miss the timing of the shot. I will rather turn this off, get a little bit of red-eye, and fix that in another software program after the fact, because it is incredibly easy to fix red-eye in programs like Lightroom and Photoshop and so forth, it's very, very easy to do it. There's a number of programs out there that'll automatically fix it as well. And so if it's more important to get the shot in my opinion in this case, which is why I'm recommending disabling that feature. The camera means is for stills, changing the ISO speed. Now there is actually an ISO button on the top of the camera this is just another way to dive into it. ISO 100 is the native sensitivity, you will bump the ISO up when you need faster shutter speeds. There is an option of setting the camera to Auto ISO, and if you set it to Auto ISO, this allows you to set a maximum ISO limit for your camera. So if you found your camera unacceptable in image quality at 12800 ISO, you can give it a max setting of 6400, and the ISO would move up and down according to the needs of the light in the camera, and it would stop at 6400. And so if you know you want to limit it you can do so here, and this will only come into play when you are using Auto USO. Auto Lighting Optimizer. We talked about this before, this was in the quick menu, this is only gonna affect JPEG images, and what it's trying to do here is it's trying to lighten up the shadows, and prevent the highlights from becoming too bright. For photographs of people, I would say that would be a good time to have it turned on. When you're doing more graphic images, landscape images, you may want to turn it off. And so when you're shooting in the raw image it's of course gonna be shooting with it off because it doesn't apply to the raw image. And all of this is something that you can work with after the fact, once you shoot a JPEG whatever the camera does in camera you could probably do after the fact as well, it's nothing doing magical, but it is doing it for you right then and there in the camera, so if you know that's the one, the look you want, you can set it up for that situation.
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