Shooting Menu: Page 6 & Secret Menu
All right, getting towards the end but don't get too excited, there's a lot more to go folks. All right, silent live view shooting. This gets a little bit technical, I can say in most cases you're gonna wanna be in mode one, the camera uses an electronic shutter release as the first shutter curtain which means that you're gonna have really no movement at all when the mirror is in up and you're shooting photos. It's great for telephoto and macro photography because there is no movement within the camera at all. The main downside to shooting in one is that the flash will not fire, so if you are doing any sort of flash photography you're gonna have to disable this feature. In general, most people are gonna be good on mode one and that'll come into effect when you're shooting in live view from a tripod. All right, when you press down on the shutter release, how long do you want the camera to stay active in its metering system and so eight seconds is pretty normal. If you wanna do it longer...
, you're gonna get less battery life but it may be more convenient so this is really a personal choice for you to make. Okay, we're time to go into the secret menus of the camera and so in order to get into the secret menus, you have to dial your camera from the live view mode to the movie mode and then press the menu button. You cannot get to it through normally just pressing the menu and then when you get in here, shooting menu number four and number five are gonna have some new features that you did not see when we just went through those sections here in the class. So first up is the Movie Servo AF and we had talked about this a little bit earlier. Do you want the camera to constantly focus when you are recording? Now, mom and pop who are shooting video just for a little bit of fun and they're not doing any fancy editing with it and it's just kinda for their own personal use and they're not gonna do any basic cuts with it, you might wanna have this turned on so that it's always looking for something to focus on. But for the person who's a little bit more discerning about what they want in focus, this is something that's gonna be very annoying to have the camera changing focus on them and it's something that they're gonna wanna specifically choose before the shot even begins. So they'll probably wanna have it on disable. The AF method has the three different focusing modes that we've talked about a couple times before, the face and tracking mode, the large zone, or the smaller box zone. I prefer the smaller box zone so I can be very precise about where my camera is focused at. This is probably the most important one, I don't know why they didn't put this first but this one should be first on the list. This is the movie recording quality, so what sort of resolution and frame rate do you wanna record on and so we have the choice between our movie files and our mp4 files and we have multiple different frame rates. I think kinda for your standard user, you're gonna want FHD which is your full high definition video, normal video runs at 30 frames a second. I know a lot of the video gurus like to run at 60 frames a second and they like that look or they wanna slow it down to 30 frames and that's what some of those gurus are gonna wanna use with it but for just general video, the FHD at 30 frames a second will be very good. Digital zoom is not something that I'm a big fan of but it can work on this camera if you do want a little extra reach, the camera will use a different part of the sensor in order to reach out there. Now this is something you would only implement if you really need a lot of extra telephoto but it does not lower image quality so that's one of the nice things and so it's something that you can specially use when you need a more telephoto reach when shooting video. You can go in and control the sound recording, either manually or you could turn it off if you're gonna be using an external control on it and so it depends on how you are recording your sound as to whether you need to use this or not. All right, the next modes I will mention might be grayed out and let me just show you on my camera real quickly 'cause I think we have the time and so let me make sure I'm in the movie mode, let me go to movies and I'm gonna change my AF method to the face tracking mode and you'll notice that these bottom two items that we're about to talk about are now grayed out and that is because I have the AF method in face tracking. If I go down to Flexi zone it's still grayed out and I do have to go down to this single box focusing and now they light up so I can get in here and start making changes. So, let's go back to the keynote and talk about what these changes are and what they're doing. And so the first one, Movie Servo AF speed is how fast the camera focuses, now you might think well I want the camera to focus as fast as possible, well that doesn't always look good when you're recording video and so you can adjust the speed according to what you think looks good. Right now, it's probably pretty good to begin within it's setting but if you wanna tweak it, you can go in and tweak it. Now there is another one setting in here called When Active. For instance, you could have the camera focus really fast when you're not shooting just for your convenience of setting up the shot but then it would slow down to a slower mode when it's actually shooting the video. So if you shoot a lot of video, you're probably gonna wanna go in and adjust these and tweak these to your own settings. If you're just doing some casual shooting, it's probably not the biggest adjustment that you need to worry about. Next up is a somewhat related item, well actually in here, one of the things to know is that the Movie Servo speed will work a little bit better with those STM lenses. They are a little bit smoother focusing, it's a smooth transition focus for video and so there are special lenses, they're typically lower end lenses but they have special motors designed for focusing with movies. Next up is Movie Servo AF tracking sensitivity and so for subjects that are moving, do you want it to stay locked on to that subject or do you want it to jump to a new subject that has just come into the focusing area? This is really gonna depend on what type of subjects you shoot and how you frame up your compositions. So definitely just starting off, zero is a good place but if you find that it jumps a little too quickly to new subjects or not quickly enough, you can adjust that in the settings right here. All right, metering timing, we already talked about this but we see it again here when we're in the video functions. Same thing with grid display, do we wanna see a grid when the camera is turned into the video mode? The shutter release button can be adjusted and so depending on whether we're pressing halfway down or all the way down, it controls whether the camera is going to focus or whether it's going to start shooting video and so some people who shoot a lot of video, would prefer to use that button because they're able to get a steadier push on the camera where the camera is not moving around as much and so most people are just gonna be fine leaving it in the auto focus mode but if you shoot a lot of video, you're gonna probably wanna choose that right hand option where it starts filming with a full press of the shutter release. There's a few things that I will confess, I don't understand, I know what this mode does I just don't understand why it's on the camera. This is a, oh I forget what the program, what's the video program that shoots like four second videos? This is a program where it forces you to shoot short videos of a particular time, you can choose how long, I think it's like two, four, eight seconds and every time you shoot a video, it automatically stops after four seconds and that's what all your videos are. I think this might be more popular in Japan, my guess is you're gonna wanna leave this disabled. All right, time-lapse movie, hey didn't we talk about this before? Well, sort of. This time-lapse movie is slightly different, we saw an intervalometer earlier and what that was used for was for taking individual still photographs. This does take still photographs but it compresses and puts 'em all into a video file right in the camera ready to go and so if you want an intervalometer, if you want a time-lapse shot and you want all the individual shots, you'll want the other mode, the intervalometer mode. If you just want a video file, a finished product in camera ready to go then this is the one you want but this'll be harder to go back and edit those individual frames if you're doing it. So this is kinda a matter of convenience and it does some nice math for you, that it will tell you how long your final video is and so it's a great time-lapse calculator. If you wanna figure out how many shots over how many intervals will yield how much video. You can have a remote control, enable and disable the video functions on it so you can start and stop recording if you want from a remote, if you have that remote control.