MF Peaking Settings Menu
Onto page four in the shooting menu, Manual Focus Peaking Settings, and so peaking is a little something that the camera helps, will show you to help focus properly when you're manually focusing, and so you can turn this on or off, and if you do a lot of manual focusing, you'll find that this does help quite a bit in choosing what area is in focus because there's a shimmering and highlights that it shows you where you're focusing. The level of the peaking can be adjusted. It's not a huge difference and so my example here does not show the difference real well, you may have to do this test yourself between low and high as you're manually focusing. You'll see these little glimmers of highlight color and you get to choose which color it is as well and so red's pretty easy to see in some cases, but depending on your subject, you may want to choose yellow or blue and it will show you in those shimmering highlights, where your camera is focused and what adjustments you may need to make eithe...
r manually or auto focusing. Actually, excuse me, that's just for manual focusing. So that is your Manual Focus Peaking Settings. Next up is your Image Stabilization Settings, which leads into another sub-menu. And so first in here, you can turn this off or you can leave it on continuous, which is basically on, and this is using the image stabilization built into the lens. On other Canon lenses in their EF lens lineup, most, I believe all of them, that do have image stabilization actually have a switch on the side of the lens and this EFM system of lenses and cameras, it's turned on and off in the camera, and so if you were on a tripod, and you can have the camera fully locked down, that would be a good time for turning if off. For general handheld use, I would probably leave it turned on, it uses very little battery power and is not a big drain on it. If you were shooting movies, there is the digital image stabilization when shooting movies, you do not lose resolution, you will still get whatever resolution you have your camera set to, but it will crop in on the frame, so you're going to lose wide angle capabilities. So if you're trying to shoot wide angle, it may not be the best thing to use. If you're shooting telephoto handheld, it's probably a pretty good thing to use. There are two different versions of this, there's enabled and then there's enhanced. Where it crops in even more and so it does have to have a lens with IS for this to be to work right and the IS mode must be in continuous. So be aware there's just some warnings about using that system. There is any Auto Level feature in the camera where it crops in on your image and allows you to tilt the camera back and forth and it keeps the horizon level. If you're not in a big need for wide angle, this might be kind of handy for you to keep a level horizon so that it's a little less shaky in your videos and you won't be able to use this, it's available only if digital IS is disabled, so the feature that we were just talking about in the IS Settings, you can't have that on the highest setting there and this turned on. You can have it set on kind of the regular setting and have this turned on under IS Settings and so you have to be careful about which ones you have turned on and how strong they are turned on because it may or may not be available then and so, if you are trying to do a selfie video and you're walking and you don't want the camera to get too tilted, this might be a good option. The trade off there, once again, is that you're going to lose a little bit of your wide angle capability. Lens aberration correction heads into another sub-menu, which is going to fix lens issues of lenses being less than perfect and I would like to say that all lenses are perfect, but the fact is that all lenses have problems. The camera's know about them and they can fix some of those little problems and so fast lenses, like a 50mm 1.4 will often have a vignetting or a darkening of the corners. You can have the camera automatically fix that by brightening up lose pixels on the edge. Now, before we go any further, I will mention this does not do this in the RAW setting, it only does it for JPEG images. And so, some cases I do want this done, in some cases I don't. When I'm doing portrait photography, I like the natural vignetting of most lenses, in fact I add it in if it's not strong enough in other cases, and so it's a very common technique to use and so I generally think about leaving that disabled. Chromatic aberration is a color ghosting that happens when you have a bright background and a solid foreground. As the light comes around that solid subject, the light has a little bit of a ghosting problem and nobody seems to like this and so I would probably leave this on, enable it. Will only fix it on the JPEGs, but if you do shoot JPEGs, that's probably a good thing to keep that fixed. Diffraction is a loss of sharpness when you stop your lens down to small F stops like F16, 22, 32, and leaving this enabled does seem to sharpen up the image a bit without any major problems, and so I think most people are going to want to leave this enabled. Once again, fixing JPEG images, not doing anything with the RAWs. We talked about making your photos lighter and darker with exposure compensation. If you want to do it in a group of photos, all at the same time, it is Auto Exposure Bracketing, and so this camera will allow you to shoot three photos at various different bracket levels and so if you want to do it very quickly and easy, you can come in here and set it to do a one stop bracket, or something slightly different than that, depending on your needs.