Menu Functions: Set Up
it is time to dive into the set up men. You were getting into the nitty gritty details here, and the first thing we have is selecting folder. If you only have one memory card, you can create different folders and select these different folders for storing your images. Perhaps you have business images in one and personal images and the others. It's a way for you to organize without a computer next up file numbering the file numbering system that the camera gives you is not always the most logical, and so sometimes you can read said it if you need to. It does have limitations, cause it will count up to 10,000 and then reset, which is not bad for a starting bit. But if you wanted to reset it at any particular time, that is one of your first options. If you wanted to manually reset it, you can do so here. And so that way we can we can do that. And Reese, reorder those numbers next up file name. The name is kind of this awkward letter code that it gives it, and if you don't like that letter...
code, you can go in and you can change it to a preset favorite. You can actually keep two of them saved in the camera. There you could use your letters, your company initials or something like that, a short word, and that could begin out the file name of each of the photos that you take. Auto rotate is kind of a nice feature for those of you who shoot a lot of verticals and want to check them out as large as you can on the back of the camera. In this case, what it does is it doesn't rotate vertical images, and you just have to simply rotate the camera. But the advantages is that it's on a much larger screen, and you could see your subject more clearly. Formatting. The card is something that you should do on a regular basis. I do it each time I'm going out on a new shoot. I want to have as much space available, and I want to make sure that my camera is communicating with the card in a proper way and by reformatting the card. That's something that you would do when you get a brand new card, and it's a good healthy thing to do for the card. It'll help it maintain it for the longest lifespan. Now you do also have the option off a low level format. Now, both a format and a low level format will delete your images, but a low level format will apparently take off a bit more information that's going on in the background. And so, if you could do that, it does take a little bit longer to do that low level format onto the second page in the set up men, you We haven't ICO mode, and this is where the camera will power down very quickly. After two seconds, the LCD will dim in brightness, and this will boost your shots from around 350 shots to 430 shots. So that's about now getting close to 2025% battery life. And so if you don't need to be actively looking at that screen all the time, this is one way of conserving power. Next up is a little subsection on power saving. So first off the display the general display that you have on the camera, How quickly do you want it to turn off. Normally, it's at one minute you can set it two different times according to your battery needs. How quickly do you want the camera to not only just have the display off, but actually power down and go into its sleep mode, and so you can adjust according to your needs? Of course, the battery power is always the trade off here with convenience. How quickly do you want the viewfinder to turn off? So each one of these, depending on how use the camera, you get to customize it the way you think it's most appropriate. The display brightness can be adjusted. Normally, I would leave this right in the middle. But sometimes, if you're trying to show people photographs on your camera under really bright sunlight, you need to bump the brightness up. If you're working out doing astro photography, you might want to tone the brightness of this down so it doesn't destroy your night vision. So this is controlling both the electronic viewfinder and the LCD on the back of the camera. If the color shifts or you don't like the color, you can adjust it in here. This is probably something that you won't need to do. But this is controlling both the IV, E f and the LCD Date and time is something that's kind of convenient toe have on the metadata of the photos that you shoot. So make sure that you get this correct language for the manual, the menu throughout the camera pretty obvious setting here on the Page three in the set up video system. This will depend a little bit on what region in what country you are in. Here in North America. We have the NTSC system, but Europe and a lot of other places in the world is on the PAL system, and that's going to depend on which shutter speeds you're gonna be using for the video. In most cases, the touch control on the back of the camera can be set to standard, which is usually fine for most people but can also be sent are set to sensitive, or you can completely disable it if you want to. The camera will beep in a number of cases, most notably when your camera is focussed on a subject, and that is kind of fun at first, when you are first learning the camera and you could hear that audio confirmation, but it can be annoying to subjects and other photographers and other people in the environment, and so it's not really necessary. The camera does give you some pretty good visual indicators when the camera is focusing inside. So if you want to go a little bit more stealthy, you can turn that off. Battery information gives you specific battery information as to how good the battery is and how many shots you've taken on it and how much charges left on. And so the recharge performance will generally start off with three green squares and then, as you use the battery for perhaps a year or so, then it will go down to two green squares squares and then, after several uses years of use, it might go down to one red square, which means there's not much life in it. But it doesn't mean you can't use the battery. I have a number of older cannon batteries because they have had this same style battery for close to 10 years. Now I have a number of batteries that have one red square, and I'm still using them. Still, squeeze in a little bit more life out of it. Sensor cleaning All right, Keeping the sensor clean is very important. The camera has some automated and manual options in here, and so the auto cleaning is nice, because whenever you turn the camera off, it sends Thesis Ensor through a little bit of automatic sensor cleaning and knocks off any easy to reach dust. And so that system works quite well. If you want to clean it right now. Well, you could just turn the camera off where you could go into the mode here and have it do it as well. There is also the option for manually cleaning, and you remember the center will close, and so you have to put it into a manual cleaning mode on. You will need a fairly charged up battery. You can't do it on a nearly empty battery to do it. It will open up the shutter, and then we'll expose the sensor so that you can take a rocket blower and blow air in there knocking off dust. If something doesn't want to come off, sometimes things are a little sticky and they get stuck on there. Then you'll need something to sweep it off. Probably the easiest system that I've found is this lens pan sensor clear to allows you to take the cap, the pen off and just kind of swipe across the sensor just like this little graphic right here and swipe off those little dust specks off to the edge of the frame and get that sensor nice and clean. Next up is HTM I resolution. If you're gonna be hooking up to an external monitor, what sort of resolution? Normally, the auto setting will figure out what the TV is and what the resolution is. But if you want to set it to 10 80 you can do so. There is an option for doing HDR output. And so if you have a TV that has this HDR feature, you can do that and the video will look a little bit better in that regard. It's not super common right now, but it is something that you might have and look into. If you do want to connect the camera up to a TV, so we're moving on to page four in the set up men, you shooting info display, and this is gonna allow us to adjust and customize this screen display in the camera. So the screen info setting allows us to go in and check and uncheck the boxes that we do or don't want. And so, if you remember pressing the info button that cycles through all the different options of what we can see in there, if you don't like one of those options, you can uncheck the box here so that you don't have to look at that every time you're scrolling past it. The in for viewfinder information. Toggle. So this is for the viewfinder, the electronic viewfinder that you look at with your eye. There's a different set of options here, not as many options. But if you don't like one of those, you can uncheck that box. This is one of the best ones. I love this being able to switch to a vertical display. So if you shoot vertically and you want to be able to read your settings a little bit more easily, you can turn this on. The main reason for not using it is if you are shooting straight up or straight down has a hard time figuring out the orientation in that particular case, the grid display on this will give you a little grid overlay on your subject for compositional reasons for alignment. Reasons for making sure your horizons level where the buildings are straight up and down. It could be handy in some situations. Normally, it's not something you want to have turned on, but it's handy from time to time. The hissed a gram display will have a number of little options, depending on what size and color you want it to be so you can choose a brightness, hissed a gram or a RGB. I like the RG because it gives you a little bit more information visually, a little bit more dynamic and easy to read. And then you can have different sizes of display. I like something that's large and easy to see, but I really hate things that are covering up the composition that you're looking at. And so I prefer the small one here because it seems to be big enough to give me the information that's necessary with out covering up too much of the image area. Next up is focusing distance display, and so when you are focusing manually, you can have this display that shows you whether you're focusing near or far and exactly what distance could be very handy to use. If you do like to manually focus, and so you can choose when this is being displayed. Is it always in Displayed is just when you're in manual focus so you can select when it's most appropriate for you to see it, and then you can choose whether you prefer to have it in meters or in feet. Next up is display performance, and so if you want to go into a power saving mode here, you can get a slower refresh rate in the viewfinder. And so I think the numbers was 15 frames per second in 100 frames per second as to what slow and fast refresh rate made is, and the big difference on this is, how much are you moving the camera around from side to side? If you're tracking subjects back and forth moving, you definitely want to have it in the smooth display, because the camera re cycles and the view through the viewfinder is much better. If you're looking at static shots, it's not gonna make much difference when you are in the power in the power saving mode, that slow refresh rate. You're not going to see any difference, really, an image quality. And so it's mostly if you're panning and photographing action, you find her display format. The display to is a slightly smaller display intended for people with eyeglasses that need to have their eye a little bit further away from the viewfinder. So another little sub menu here for the display settings. We have our display control first, and this is gonna be the switching between the viewfinder and the LCD. And so most muralist cameras actually have a button on the side of the viewfinder that will allow you to switch between E V F LCD and an auto switch between these. So this when you actually have to dive in to the menu settings. And so if this is something you switch frequently, you might wanna look at setting this as one of the shortcut options. If you do want to manually choose where it is, you have two options. The electronic viewfinder or the LCD screen on the back. Next up is the help text size. If you want to have a larger size text, you can choose. So here might make it a little bit easier to read for those of you over 40 years old. Next up, fifth page on the Senate menu, the wireless communication. So there is a lot of different wireless options. We're not gonna spend too much time on most of them, but we will do, Ah, WiFi set up here. So diving in here, we do first have our WiFi settings. And in here we have a WiFi setting that we can enable or disable. Now, by default, you should probably leave this on disabled most of the time because it's gonna eat up a lot of battery power, sending out a WiFi signal that you may not be using on a regular basis. And so generally keep this on disable in a moment. We're going to go in here and turn it on and actually activate the whole system. You can have this with a password or not. You can show the connection history about what devices it's connected up with. You can have it automatically send images to a computer over a WiFi system, and so it's ah, a little bit slow because the WiFi system is gonna be slower than actually connecting up a card reader, but it could be done wirelessly if need be. So if you are going to be doing an auto sand first off, you'd probably want to disable this unless you really plan on using it. If you are going to use it, you have some sending options. You can choose a range of images or a type of images to send whether it's still or movie. And then, if you want to cancel the pairing, there'll be an option there. Next up, you can send a smartphone after the shot. So once again this is going to use battery power on your camera and on your phone, and it can be a little bit Ah, a bit of a gas guzzler, you might say when it comes to power consumption on this. And so it is not something you want inadvertently leave on. You only want to use this when you actually need to use it. And so, within the auto sin, you can choose to turn this on or off, so keep it disabled. Unless you're going to use it, you can choose what size of image to send It might be fun to send a full size image, but it's going to take a long time and use a lot of battery power. And so if you're planning to just use the image on your phone, if you're gonna email it up to AH Web account or email to somebody or post on a website, you can probably do fine with the smaller size image. I forget exactly what size but surround maybe a two megapixel image so that it's gonna be a lot easier toe deal with file size than a 30 megapixel image. If you want to see the address for the access control, most people don't need to, but it's there if you need it. All right. Next up is the WiFi functions, and this is how we're gonna connect up to our smartphone or other devices in here. And so we're going to choose tow hook up to a smartphone, and I'm going to show you the steps, and I am going to pre apologize for the next slide you're about to see. I did not design the instructions and have all the steps, but Canon did, and there's a lot of steps in the process. But let me take you through what you need to do. The first set up is you get camera and phone stuff with the phone. You need to download the cannon Connect. Excuse me. Canon camera connect. And that is their WiFi app for remote control and remote viewing on the phone. So get that downloaded on your phone. It's a free app. So it's easy to get at all the commonplaces. Now, as we go through this, there are some items that you will need to do the first time. And I'm gonna do this as if I'm hooking this up for the very first time. And there are other things that once you've already done it the first time and you've established the line of communication, it will be a little bit easier. It'll probably be a lot easier the second time around that you do it. All right. Next set of steps is gonna be with the camera itself. You're gonna go into the wire list communications and WiFi setting. You're gonna turn it on your going to note the password, and then you're gonna go back over to the phone. Open up your wife I enter the password for the most part, then you are going to approve the process on your camera, and then you're gonna go back to your phone, and you're going to use it. And so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna go through, and I'm gonna try to follow these instructions here and see if this actually hooks us up onto the WiFi system. So what I need to do on the phone first is put this in the menu system and we're gonna go to the wireless communications. And then we're gonna go to WiFi settings, and we're gonna enable our WiFi system. And then what do I need to know? I need to go to the WiFi function, connect to smartphone able there. Okay, that's enabled back Come down to the WiFi function on. I'm gonna register a name. So this camera is called Eos are There's no other ones in the room. So we're just gonna say menu OK on that one and give it an OK. And now we're gonna connect up with the phone, okay. And so registered device for a connection. Gonna set. Okay. Again, I'm going to say we don't need this. Do not display, and now it's giving me a password. Okay, so there's my password, folks. Don't worry. It's only for this one. All right? It is time to turn on the phone, and I need to go to the WiFi setting here and look at the WiFi and see what comes up. And hopefully this is sending out a signal that we're going to see and hear. It is the Eos are 57 cannon A. So I'm going to select that. All right, that's good. That's good. Now it's time to go in and open up the cannon WiFi app, which I have right here. And there we go. So we can see down here that I have the canon Eos are. And I'm just gonna tap that to select it. Who? This is good. The camera is sensing it. I'm going to select the okay, Connection established. That's good. That's good. Looking pretty good. All right, so now we are hooked up and we can do some different things on here. Ah, we can go into camera settings. I'm gonna hold this up. Maybe so you can see it a little bit easier. We could go into camera settings and we can take a look at some things in here, and we have the date and time and area, and that's just not very interesting, is it? Okay, so we'll go back out of that. We can look at location information, and that's a lot of very small text that we're not going to read right now. So we're gonna skip past that. Let's go into the good stuff, images on camera so we can review images that we've been taking all day in the class here. All right. And so here's all these images We could select him and we could download him to the camera, and we're not gonna bother with that right now. We're gonna go to remote live view shooting already. And so now you can see exactly what my camera is pointed at. And if I press the button here, the camera will focus and take a picture. And the idea is that you can use this so that you don't have to be at the camera. If I wanted to go over here and get in the photo myself, I can see. Am I in the photo perfectly. I'm just perfectly right? Just I'm glad I'm not any taller. Never wanted to be any dollar. And so now I don't want to look at this. So I'm gonna point this, And now I can get a photo and make sure that I was in the photo. And so Ah, pretty good little system. It is a bit of button pressing to get it hooked up, but hey, folks, it worked and there wasn't any major problems, so I'm actually pretty happy about that. And so you can just turn the camera off if you want to disconnect it. There is the option also of shooting video as well on the back of it. But I'm gonna go ahead and hit the disconnect button on the APP right now, and I'm gonna confirm that I want to disconnect. And I feel like I have accomplished showing you how to hook it up, at least in one way or another, and so that it's one of those things that looks really cool and it's fun to use. But you do have to be careful, because when you play around with it for 15 or minutes, you'll look down at your batteries and they're suddenly at 45%. Eso You have to be a little bit careful on the battery usage in that case. But as I say, it's the interesting things. And you can mount the camera and unusual places and see exactly what's going on. Alrighty, moving on. So that is our WiFi function. Come back in here. Once you've already connected, you can disconnect if need be. There is also the option of hooking up with Bluetooth to the camera. I'm not going to go through all of these functions but will quickly just take a look at what they are. Normally, of course, you'd leave this on disabled to save battery power. You can use it to hook up to the B R E one remote, and so, if you want a remote to trigger the camera wirelessly, you do a lot of tripod photography. This is a really handy, nice little remote, and it uses the Bluetooth to connect up. We have a pairing option. You can take a look on here. If you are doing the pairing, then that will get you paired up with the device. You can check your connections and then you can clear it if you're already engaged in a pairing process and you can see the Bluetooth address. If for some reason you would need to see that, do you want your camera to stay connected, even though you turn your camera off to save the battery power? So that's still gonna be using power on your phone? It would save a little bit of power in your camera being able to shut it down. But you do need to be very careful and wise about when you choose to do this next up. You could send a image to the smartphone. You can select an image if it is shown and hit send, and you can send that particular one once you are already connected up. So once you're connected up on Bluetooth, you can send selected images pretty easily at that point. If you want to change the name of your camera, you can. If you have multiple Eos ours you could give them 1234 designations or whatever is necessary so you can identify your camera, possibly among a larger group of them. And then if you've been messing around in these settings and you think you may have messed them all up. Well, you come in here and hit the clear settings, and it will take it back to the factory default settings. So there you go. That is your wireless communication settings. Next up is the GPS device setting. And so if you have the G p e two and plugging that in on the side of the camera, it will record GPS information straight to the metadata of the photographs you're taking shows you the location where you were at when you were shooting those photos. There's gonna be a sub menu that controls all the features of this. And so, if you are going to use that, you can turn it on here, or you can get the information from a smartphone. There is a set of procedure we're not gonna go through, but it will show up when you add that device to the camera. All right, final page on the set up men, you multi function locks. So the lock button on the top of the camera can lock down and prevent a lot of other dials and functions from being changed. And so you can choose all those items in red there and pick and choose which ones will be locked or not locked by pressing that. And so that's a really great system when you were working in a consistent lighting situation. And you really want to make sure that nothing changes on your camera, even though you may be picking it up and putting it down quite frequently. Customs Shooting mode In this case, there are many different ways that you can customize the camera and lock it into one of the C 12 or three settings in here. And so I want to do a little demo on what that would involve and what that would look like. So let's go ahead and set this camera up. All right, So let's say we like to use our camera in aperture priority, and one of the options we want to think about is setting an I S o of Let's change our S 02 3200. We're gonna make a bunch of specific settings. Let's make another one. Let's change the motor drive to continuous high and will change. What else will change are focusing from one shot to servo and our white balance to Sonny. Where? Sonny? There, sonny. Right there. Okay, so that's a very specific setting that we've set up for the cameras. So what we're gonna do is then go into the menu, come over to page six and custom shooting mode C one through C three, and we're gonna register these settings as C one, okay? And we're gonna hit. Okay. All right. So those features air locked in two C one. Now, what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna go back, and I have to change this kind of back to its default system. So I'm gonna go back to auto white balance, gonna go back toe one shot, single shot, and we'll change our eso down 800. Okay. And so let me go to a different screen so that you can see what's going on so you can see where these settings are. And if I hit the mode button, you'll see down here and see one. It says a V, and that's the one that we selected. And when I go ahead and select this one here, it's bumped. My I s o up to 30. 200. White balance is set at Sonny It's in the continuous high speed motor drive, and the idea is that you could set the camera up for a multitude of different types of scenario. Perhaps you have one for your portrait shooting, one for your landscape shooting and one for your action shooting. And you don't have to go change all these individual features. And I know when I go from one style of shooting to another, there's probably five or six different things that I'm going to need to change toe. Optimize the camera for that situation. If you can kind of figure that out ahead of time, you can program that end and be able to make those changes far quicker, because it's just one thing that you're changing your changing to C one C two or C three and then back to the other modes it's necessary, so it could be really handy as a shortcut toe. A lot of features, very good, very good feature to have in here. So a few more things concerning that if you want to clear those settings, you kind of want to start from scratch again. You can clear the settings of any of those 12 and three and the auto update setting this one's kind of interesting. So when you're in a mode and I've had some problems with these custom modes in the past because I put it in the custom mode and then I realize it's almost perfect, I just need to change one thing. I need a little higher I s O. And if you have this enabled what happens is in our particular example, we were setting the camera. I s 0 3200 Well, if we have the camera in the C one mode and we suddenly jump up Toso 6400 the camera will say, Okay, well, that's the new default setting for C one. Do you want it to automatically update any changes that you make? So for some people, that's gonna be good for other people. It's bad. It depends on how you're shooting and how you're going back and forth between the moats. But the update allows you to update those features as you're shooting, so that when you switch from one to the other, it's always got the latest generation of changes that you've made. All right, Next one is for anybody who has not been paying attention. For the last hour and 1/2 it's We've been going through all these functions. If you would like to clear your camera settings and get him back to the factory defaults here, you can simply do that right here by clicking. OK, copyright information is kind of interesting because you can actually put your name in the camera. And so this will go on the metadata of the photograph. So each photograph that you go out will have this attached in the metadata. And I think if your camera was ever lost and somebody wanted to try to find you, then they go through the menu system, they might find it in their May help with the camera is lost or stolen. Get it back to you. And so you can put your name in. You can put your copyright information in so you have a little keyboard into your name in here, and for your copyright information, you could put copyright information. You could also put contact information. So if somebody wanted to email you, they could say, Hey, I found your camera like to return it. Where can we meet on DSO That would be a handy thing if something bad happened and then the final one is to delete any copyright information that might be in there. So if you're going to sell your camera, I would probably get rid of all of that information. There is a queue are scan code in the menu of the system. So if you have a Q R reader in your camera, it will read this and automatically give you a PdF of the instruction manual. So if you forget how to use the camera, used the QR reader on your phone and get yourself a PdF version of the instruction manual. Maybe the most useless item in the menu is this logo display. To show you, I certification that the camera has been approved and then the firmware. So the firmware is thesis oft wear that runs the operation of the camera and the lens. So the camera currently has a software version of 1.10 it came. It was updated not too long ago A so far as the date of this recording. So they've added some new features and some new compatibility. In this. You download that software you put it on your memory card, Put the memory card into the camera and then come here and it will ask you, Do you want to upload the new firmware? And you say yes. And then it takes a couple of minutes and it loads in the new firm where the most recent firmware update, I believe it allowed I tracking and face tracking with the continuous servo focusing camera wasn't able to do that when it was first released, but now it is. And so you can update the camera to handle this new feature. It's for free. It just takes time to go to the website, download the information and uploaded into the camera. There is also firmware for the lenses, although at this time there is no firmware updates that I know of, at least in the recording of this class. But I imagine that there will be some updates. Either there's a bug, or there's a feature enhancement that a camera lens will need, and you'll need to have that lands on the camera, and you'll probably end up going through a the same or very similar process to update the firmware of the lens, and it will give you a number of that as well