Canon® Lenses: The Complete Guide

Lesson 56 of 58

Lens Maintenance

 

Canon® Lenses: The Complete Guide

Lesson 56 of 58

Lens Maintenance

 

Lesson Info

Lens Maintenance

So if you have all these lenses, the main maintenance of um a lot of questions that people have about this so let's get those answer cleaning your lands what do you need? Generally I just use a micro fiber cloth which are these really tightly woven cloth. There are papers and other little gadgets, but you know what? The micro fiber cloth does it for me in virtually all the situations you can use air, you do not use compressed air to clean the sensor of your camera, but I do use this to clean the outside of my lands and sometimes stuff on my lands. You do have to be careful about how you pointed you don't want to tilt it upside down because it can propel the frozen elements on your lens, which could damage so you do need to be careful and how you use this you can use lens cleaning fluid, although I really don't find it necessary. I just blow a little hot air under the front of the land so there's from moisture. So if there's a water droplet, you could get that off fairly easily. And fin...

ally I will sometimes clean the outside areas of the lands with a brush if I've been in a dusty or sandy environment trying to get out trying to get that sand out of the grooves of the mechanism of the zooming and focusing, focusing mechanisms for lens protection, who we're getting into a touchy issue here, very personal feelings for some people in this, how do you protect the front of your lands? We have three different options. Lens caps, hoods and filter so let's, look at each one of these lens caps. Okay, what's, good about these things. They protect your lens when you are not using your lands when they're in the camera bag. The downside is that they are a hassle to work with. I see people dangling these things around, losing them, it's, a great dust collector, and then you can put it right on the front of your lands. Were all that dust can get deposited right on the front of your lands. 00:01:47.59 --> 00:01:50. The filters there. Nice for protecting your lands 00:01:50.13 --> 00:01:52. at all times, whether you're using them or not, it 00:01:52.78 --> 00:01:55. completes that weather ceiling, a lot of those l lenses 00:01:55.83 --> 00:01:58. and doesn't hurt on a lot of the other lenses as well. 00:01:58.69 --> 00:02:01. Now, I'm not to say that this makes the lens worse, but it doesn't improve the image quality by adding on another filter. But if you do put on a good filter, you're not going to notice the difference in image quality. I've done tests, and I can't see the difference if I use a good quality filter. But you gotta buy the filters, so that's going to add in a little extra cost the lens hood. We've talked about that in the previous section. That is important and good for a lot of situations, for preventing flair and really getting the best image quality from a lands as possible also helps out in a rain environment, so that it's not landing on the front. The downside of this is that it does increase the lens size which means it's a little bit taking up more space in the camera bag or you make a reverse it so that it takes up less space but then you got to reverse it back on there and then we get people like jane from our cuba trip who refuses to turn it around even though they brought around because it's a hassle to attach to the camera and so it can also block the flash and in some very windy situations the wind can catch that and cost problems as well and so the question is which one two or three of these options are you going to go with very few serious photographers use all three they generally are going to decide one or two of these things that they're going to use and that is enough protection for the lands one of the most common combinations that I see with serious photographers is the hood and the lens cap it is always good well not always but it's almost always good to use a hood so that's kind of a default yes, you should be using your hood and then they use lens caps to protect the equipment while it's in the camera back I personally don't like this system the advantages to this is you do get the best image quality you're not shooting through a filter and there is the minor hassle of taking the lens cap on and off and potentially losing it I really dislike this minor 00:03:57.119 --> 00:04:00. hassle and part of my reasoning for this the reason 00:04:00.91 --> 00:04:04. my history is from a photo journalism background is 00:04:04.19 --> 00:04:06. you better be able to pick that camera out of your 00:04:06.38 --> 00:04:08. bag and shoot that photo right now and if there's 00:04:08.85 --> 00:04:12. a lens cap on it you may miss that shot and so I personally 00:04:12.84 --> 00:04:16. go with the filter and the hood philosophy and I don't 00:04:16.49 --> 00:04:19. use lens caps I have never in twenty five years of 00:04:19.33 --> 00:04:22. photography lost a lens cap because when I buy a lens 00:04:22.88 --> 00:04:24. I put it back in the box that I bought it and it goes 00:04:24.97 --> 00:04:28. in the closet so they're all in my closet and so in 00:04:28.17 --> 00:04:31. this situation you get good protection you get excellent 00:04:31.62 --> 00:04:34. image quality you could argue it's not as good as 00:04:34.18 --> 00:04:37. this but I could also argue that it's insignificantly 00:04:37.25 --> 00:04:39. different and there is virtually no house with the 00:04:39.63 --> 00:04:41. only household but I have to deal with is reversing 00:04:41.94 --> 00:04:43. lens hood's which is what most people are going to 00:04:43.64 --> 00:04:45. deal with. Some people don't like this system because 00:04:45.95 --> 00:04:48. they don't like the cost of the filters and they think 00:04:48.11 --> 00:04:50. the filters affect their images even though they've 00:04:50.05 --> 00:04:52. never tested it and proven it they just think that 00:04:53.64 --> 00:04:56. but it's, your choice is to which combinations you 00:04:56.18 --> 00:04:59. want to go with and one of the things that drives 00:04:59.34 --> 00:05:02. me nuts more than anything else is if you've ever 00:05:02.16 --> 00:05:04. seen the lens cap keepers it's, that little leash 00:05:04.73 --> 00:05:06. that you put on the strap of your lands, and then 00:05:06.79 --> 00:05:08. it hangs down here and it goes. Cling, clang, clang, 00:05:08.48 --> 00:05:10. clang, clang, clang, clang, clang, clang! And you 00:05:10.23 --> 00:05:11. walk down the streets. Got clank, clank, clank, clank, 00:05:11.64 --> 00:05:14. clank, clank. And it just makes a whole lot of noise, 00:05:14.08 --> 00:05:16. and it is really disturbing, especially if you're 00:05:16.42 --> 00:05:18. trying to shoot a portrait photograph where you're 00:05:18.66 --> 00:05:20. kind of hypnotizing. The person is there watching 00:05:20.9 --> 00:05:24. your lens cap. Go back and forth, and so please avoid 00:05:24.24 --> 00:05:25. those. They're terrible. All right folks are we ready to get into a demo here just a moment let's run through these slides okay so someone did you have very very high standards and you have very low tolerances and you expect that when you buy a thousand dollar lands or three thousand dollars lands that it is going to be one hundred percent perfect and I'm sorry that's not the case we saw some images of cameras lenses that were forty thousand dollars and those air not even perfect our lenses are designed within a reasonable tolerance to be very 00:05:58.737 --> 00:06:02. very very good and rk ears are as well and sometimes 00:06:02.01 --> 00:06:05. there's a slight discrepancy in these tolerances and 00:06:05.8 --> 00:06:08. our cameras don't focus exactly the way that we had 00:06:08.65 --> 00:06:12. want them to so we focus on a subject that's where 00:06:12.19 --> 00:06:15. we wanted to focus but this is an estimation the way 00:06:15.36 --> 00:06:18. these cellars work and sometimes the estimation is 00:06:18.32 --> 00:06:20. wrong in our camera will focus in front of where it 00:06:20.59 --> 00:06:23. is supposed to focus or it'll be slightly behind where 00:06:23.7 --> 00:06:27. we focus twenty years ago if your lens or camera did 00:06:27.65 --> 00:06:30. this you would need to send your camera all your lenses 00:06:30.65 --> 00:06:33. into cannon they would work on them for two or three 00:06:33.11 --> 00:06:35. weeks and then send him back to you and then when 00:06:35.65 --> 00:06:38. you replace that lens and got a new lens it was out 00:06:38.41 --> 00:06:40. of tolerances again and so they decided on the current 00:06:40.67 --> 00:06:43. cameras toe let you make the adjustment, if you want 00:06:43.84 --> 00:06:46. to. In order to do this, you need a focusing target, 00:06:46.89 --> 00:06:49. something to focus on. And then you need to measure 00:06:49.36 --> 00:06:52. as to whether you are focusing in front of or behind 00:06:52.2 --> 00:06:56. that subject. And so an angled yardstick like this 00:06:56.2 --> 00:06:58. will work quite well. If you want to spend a bit of 00:06:58.77 --> 00:07:01. money less than a hundred bucks, you can buy a focusing 00:07:01.85 --> 00:07:04. target that measures out what's in focus. Whether 00:07:04.87 --> 00:07:07. it's in front of or behind this is a really nice system 00:07:07.68 --> 00:07:10. for somebody who does this quite a bit. I tend to 00:07:10.46 --> 00:07:12. be a thrifty person, and so 00:07:13.76 --> 00:07:18. we would focus on our ruler here and then a yard stick 00:07:18.32 --> 00:07:22. like this. And so, in this case, we focus on the ruler, 00:07:22.81 --> 00:07:26. and we look to see what number is in focus. And if 00:07:26.5 --> 00:07:29. number nine is in focus, its front focused. If it's 00:07:29.25 --> 00:07:32. number eleven and focus, then that's back focus. And 00:07:32.42 --> 00:07:34. we would need to make an adjustment in the micro focus 00:07:35.0 --> 00:07:38. adjustment menu in our camera. And so if you want 00:07:38.53 --> 00:07:39. to do this. I did this and here is an example I set my camera I didn't know how far off my camera wass and so I just took five photos and the settings range in most cameras from minus twenty two plus twenty and you can see it minus twenty the camera is supposed to 00:07:59.013 --> 00:08:03. be focused on ten but focused in front in front a 00:08:03.44 --> 00:08:09. little in front behind and behind and so ten was too 00:08:09.1 --> 00:08:14. much zero was too little save me get that right yes 00:08:14.19 --> 00:08:17. and so I probably would need to set this at maybe 00:08:17.72 --> 00:08:21. plus three or plus four in order to get this properly 00:08:21.09 --> 00:08:23. set and so this is something that takes a little bit 00:08:23.37 --> 00:08:26. of thyme and a little bit of hassle but if you are 00:08:26.66 --> 00:08:30. not getting consistent focus this is what you need 00:08:30.77 --> 00:08:33. to do to adjust your lenses now it's not important 00:08:33.47 --> 00:08:36. that everybody needs to do this if you have a rebel 00:08:36.47 --> 00:08:39. within eighteen to fifty five lands don't bother it's 00:08:39.27 --> 00:08:41. not going to make a difference because your lens doesn't 00:08:41.12 --> 00:08:43. have a shallow enough depth of field that you're going 00:08:43.53 --> 00:08:47. to notice this micro adjustment off that your lens 00:08:47.21 --> 00:08:50. might possibly be this is for people who have eighty 00:08:50.34 --> 00:08:54. five one two one thirty five f twos seventy two, two 00:08:54.1 --> 00:08:56. hundred two eights three hundred two eights four hundred 00:08:56.38 --> 00:08:59. two eights bigger, faster, shallower depth of field 00:08:59.14 --> 00:09:01. lenses you need your camera, your lenses, your tripod 00:09:01.93 --> 00:09:04. you're going to need to shoot as sharp a picture as 00:09:04.2 --> 00:09:09. you can possibly get and using a target as a yardstick. 00:09:10.2 --> 00:09:13. Excuse me, a ruler and a yardstick. Just as an example, 00:09:13.67 --> 00:09:17. you could use something like this as a yardstick. 00:09:17.23 --> 00:09:19. To measure off what you're focusing on. You put a 00:09:19.81 --> 00:09:21. ruler right here, and you're going to be able to see 00:09:21.98 --> 00:09:24. if you're focused in front or behind it. 00:09:27.45 --> 00:09:30. You're going to set your camera up for maximum image 00:09:30.24 --> 00:09:32. quality and shallow a step the field you could use 00:09:32.8 --> 00:09:35. either aperture priority or emmanuel to do this you 00:09:35.5 --> 00:09:38. want to set your eyes so as low as possible and what 00:09:38.57 --> 00:09:39. you're going to be doing is you're going to be auto 00:09:39.99 --> 00:09:43. focusing doing single shot auto focus so that your 00:09:43.78 --> 00:09:47. camera focuses on the subject and then stops and then 00:09:47.43 --> 00:09:50. you're going to be shooting this in several ways you 00:09:50.35 --> 00:09:53. need to manually unfocused your image so that you're 00:09:53.1 --> 00:09:56. letting your camera focus on your subject and lock 00:09:56.46 --> 00:09:58. the mirror up so there's no vibrations so you get 00:09:58.25 --> 00:10:01. a nice sharp picture take the picture play it back 00:10:01.4 --> 00:10:05. magnified and see if you got a sharp picture if it's 00:10:05.33 --> 00:10:07. focused in front or focused behind you're going to 00:10:07.99 --> 00:10:10. have to kind of go back and re adjust where that micro 00:10:11.3 --> 00:10:14. focus setting is and this is something that cannon 00:10:14.33 --> 00:10:17. has added on to all of their intermediate and higher 00:10:17.88 --> 00:10:20. in camera so it's not going to be on the rebel siri's 00:10:20.45 --> 00:10:22. it's going to be on things like the seventy marks 00:10:22.45 --> 00:10:26. to the five day mark three and the one d x and so 00:10:26.08 --> 00:10:28. those are for the people who have the faster lenses 00:10:28.8 --> 00:10:32. when I need to do this for a couple of lenses it takes 00:10:32.4 --> 00:10:35. me about an hour between setting everything up getting 00:10:35.47 --> 00:10:38. it right shooting the photos, shooting a couple photos 00:10:38.17 --> 00:10:41. back and forth to see exactly what's going on. And 00:10:42.1 --> 00:10:45. it enables you to get the sharpest possible focus 00:10:45.43 --> 00:10:48. on a consistent basis. Now, you don't even necessarily 00:10:48.62 --> 00:10:52. need to do this unless there is a problem. And there 00:10:52.13 --> 00:10:55. is a problem if you are constantly focusing in front 00:10:55.6 --> 00:10:58. or behind your subject, and you really feel that your 00:10:58.54 --> 00:11:01. camera is at fault and it's, not your technique. And 00:11:01.0 --> 00:11:03. so that's. Knowing that technique of how your camera 00:11:03.5 --> 00:11:07. focus is is very important in this. And so good step 00:11:07.0 --> 00:11:09. to do for those of you with those higher end, shallower 00:11:09.56 --> 00:11:11. depths of field lenses.

Class Description


Working with interchangeable lenses can be both exciting and daunting to all levels of photographers. Canon® Lenses: The Complete Guide with John Greengo will prepare you to select the right lens and get the most out of all of your lens investments.

John Greengo is the master of making complex photography concepts easy to understand and in this class, he’ll bring all of your Canon® EOS DSLR lens options and operations into focus. You’ll learn about: 

  • Focal length and aperture
  • Canon® zoom lenses
  • Which lens accessories to buy
  • Third-party lenses
  • Maintaining a lens system
John will cover the full range of Canon® lenses, from ultra-wide to super-telephoto, zooms to primes, fisheye to perspective control. You’ll learn how to match the right lens to your needs and get insights on the best ways to use it.

Whether you are thinking about buying a new lens or just want to get the most out of what you already have, Canon® Lenses: The Complete Guide with John Greengo will help you out.

Lessons

  1. Class Introduction
  2. Canon® Lens Basics

    John Greengo gets you up-to-speed on the basics of working with interchangeable Canon® lenses.

  3. Focal Length: Angle of View
  4. Focal Length: Normal Lenses
  5. Focal Length: Wide Angle Lenses
  6. Focal Length: Telephoto Lens
  7. Focal Length Rule of Thumb
  8. Field of View
  9. Aperture Basics
  10. Aperture: Maximum Aperture
  11. Aperture: Equivalent Focal Length
  12. Aperture: Depth of Field
  13. Aperture: Maximum Sharpness
  14. Aperture: Starburst Effect
  15. Aperture: Flare
  16. Aperture: Hyperfocal Distance
  17. Camera Mount System
  18. Canon® Lens Compatibility
  19. Canon® Lens Design
  20. Canon® Lens Composition
  21. Canon® Lens Shape
  22. Canon® Lens Coating
  23. Canon® Lens Focusing
  24. Lens Autofocus
  25. Canon® Lens Image Stabilization
  26. Canon® L Lenses
  27. Image Quality
  28. Canon® Zoom Lenses: Standard
  29. Canon® Super Zooms
  30. Canon® Wide Zooms
  31. Canon® Telephoto Zooms
  32. Prime Lens: Normal Lenses
  33. Prime Lens: Moderate Wide
  34. Prime Lens: Wide Angle
  35. Prime Lens: Ultra-Wide
  36. Prime Lens: Short Telephoto
  37. Prime Lens: Medium Telephoto
  38. Prime Lens: Super Telephoto
  39. 3rd Party Lenses Overview
  40. 3rd Party Prime Lenses
  41. 3rd Party Zoom Lenses
  42. Lens Accessories: Filters
  43. Lens Accessories: Lens Hoods
  44. Lens Accessories: Tripod Mount
  45. Lens Accessories: Extension Tubes
  46. Lens Accessories: Extenders
  47. Macro Lens: Reproduction Ratio
  48. Macro Lens: Technique and Choices
  49. Fisheye: Technique and Choices
  50. Tilt Shift: Techniques and Choices
  51. Make a Lens System Choice
  52. Choosing A Portrait Lens
  53. Choosing A Sports Lens
  54. Choosing A Landscape Lens
  55. Best Lenses for You
  56. Lens Maintenance
  57. Buying and Selling Lens
  58. What is John Greengo's Favorite Lens?

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