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Canon SL-1 Fast Start

Lesson 8 of 10

Menus: Playback, Setup, and Custom


Canon SL-1 Fast Start

Lesson 8 of 10

Menus: Playback, Setup, and Custom


Lesson Info

Menus: Playback, Setup, and Custom

So what we need to do is get our camera back into the regular on mode and hit the menu button and go over to the playback tab and we're not going to spend a lot of time here there's a lot of goofy things in here that allow you to play around and do some other stuff that's really not about taking the best quote that's quality images it's about working with him after the fact first off we have protect images you can put a very week lock on your images so they can't be deleted by the garbage can button on the back of the camera you can still form at the memory card they can still be deleted in some other ways it's a very low level of protection but if you have your camera around other people that delete things accidentally it would be a safety precaution for it. Next up is something that allows you sure my keyboard is working here here we go allows you to rotate images for playback so if you have an image that sideways and you want to play it back in a tv, you can rotate the image. If you...

want to erase an image the fastest ways with the garbage can button on the back of the camera if you want to do it in camera, you can erase all the images at once I don't recommend that but you could do it that way. You can go through, and you can select individual images for deletion and then just press one to lead to get rid of several different images. Once again, the garbage can button on the back is usually a little bit faster for many people. Next up is print order, and this is where you could hook your camera up to a printer this's the goofy part and you can print pictures essentially straight from your camera in this is kind of convenient for somebody who doesn't have access to a computer, or they just want to bypass that be a little bit quicker there's a bunch of parameters in here about which print how big cropping and some other little issues about getting that printed. If you want to get the best quality prints, download your image to the computer and printed from the computer. Next up is his photo book set up. Okay, so this is another little goofy thing where you can create collections of images that would go into a photo book so that you could organize your images. This is a kind of in lieu of having a computer around have at it, have fun, creative filters. What happens here is you take an image that you have already taken. And you add a goofy effect to it we have grainy black and white soft focus fisheye art goldwater painting and a few other little goofy ones and what it does is it makes a new file so it doesn't damage the original picture whether it's raw or j peg it makes a new file with this funky look to it and I guess it's kind of fun to play around with that first it's just something that you can do better in a computer if you have the right program sometimes you do and sometimes you don't so enjoy using that one you can downsize images so if you shoot a large j peg you could make a smaller j peg that would be more suitable for email for instance, you can also crop an image if you want in the next playback tab and so you can go in and you could set cropping guidelines for how to crop in image you might do this if you were printing directly from the camera next one is one of the more important ones I guess of this tab the history graham display is the display of the graphic total range that you are recording in the camera I prefer to see the rgb one which is the red green and blue distribution I think it's just a little easier to see and so you can just turn that on by setting that two rgb when you're playing your images back, he recalled that the dial up on the top of the camera would jump ten forward or ten backwards well if you prefer to change by date folders, movies, still images or something else you can do that right here I think jumping ten is a pretty good number so I would just leave it right there that was pretty good if you want hook your camera to a tv you can establish a slide show so this is going toe allow you to go in and set which pictures and how long the transition is and some other things like that one of those little things in there another one that I thought was really goofy was raiding your images so if you want to go through and you wanna add stars to your image is one to five stars you can read all your images and I kind of fluff this office unnecessary and then I came across a situation where I was stuck with no place to go and nothing to dio and all I had was my camera with all its pictures on it and I did go through and I started rating pictures and it gave me a head start on the editing process when I got home, so if you're stuck in an airport rate all your pictures so that when you get home the editing process goes a little bit more quickly if you're gonna hook your camera to an hd tv, this allows you to control your camera from the tvs remote if you do that a lot, you can enable it, but most people don't do it very much so they would leave it on disable and so that's the playback menus and we're going to jump right on to the next group kind of the gold color set up tabs so set up number one and we're going to going through a lot of the general set ups on the camera most of the things in the set up we're going to get set right now and you won't ever need to come back here selecting folder this allows you to create and select different folders on the camera's memory card. For instance, if you had personal pictures in business pictures, you could create a separate folder and shoot pictures to separate cards that way when you did a slide show or you were showing a client images, they wouldn't be your family photographs he has you wanted to do this in another way you could just use a separate memory card, but if he only had one memory card you can create different folders on that one memory card most people don't do this at all file number and I would just keep it simple and leave it at continuous what it does here is it just adds up he was number and it adds up you can go in and manually reset the number if necessary. All right, I'm going to recommend a change here in auto rotate because this is what your camera normally wants to do with vertical images you can see it's rotated the image so that we can see it on the back of the camera. The problem is is that the image is not using up the full screen space it's better if we don't rotate the image because what we can do in this case in the field is we can rotate the camera, which is probably how we shot the image in the first place. So what do you want to have on this one is just on computer it will rotate it when you get to the computer but not on the camera itself, so you will need to move the camera around, but it will be a bigger image and bigger is better when it comes to images. Ok, we've talked about deleting images if you really want to get rid of everything on a memory card, what you want to do is you want a format the memory card, what formatting does is it gets rid of the pictures and the file directory explaining where all the pictures are on the cart and so it's basically a more secure way of deleting the pictures on the memory card one of the standard process is for a professional photographer before they go out on a really important shoot is to take their camera and check the memory card check their computer that they have downloaded those images and if they've downloaded him backed him up then they'll go to their camera and they will reform at the memory card it gets rid of all the images gets rid of the data directory ghost files establishes a clean line of communication between the camera and the card and is something that you just do on a regular basis and it maintains the life of the card is well so you probably use the card without any data corruption for a longer period of time so get in the practice of doing that on a regular basis you don't want to leave good pictures on a memory card in your camera needlessly long if the camera gets stolen or something happens to it you might lose all that data you want to get backed up on your computer and on sir a bit hard drives as soon as possible you may not see the setting in your camera unless you haven't I fight card which is related to wifi this enables your camera to hook up with a nearby computer for transmitting images straight from the camera to the computer one of the options you could do with a knife I is you could take a knife I card put it in your camera. Go out about shoot pictures. Come back. Put the camera near your computer and it would automatically start streaming those pictures to your computer automatically downloading. Now, the cards do cost more money, and they're not available in his many sizes and speeds. But they are available for somebody who would like that convenience. Ok, moving on to tool tab number two. Set up number two. How quickly do you want your camera to power down to save battery power? Thirty seconds is the normal time length. You could set it longer if you need to, but thirty seconds is pretty normal. The brightness of the screen on the back of the camera should normally be left in the middle of the range. You could bump it up or down if it drifts in its brightness down the road. But for the most part, you want to leave it in the middle because it's mimicking the exposure that you were going to get in the camera. Lcd, auto off. So if you recall just above the viewfinder that you look through, there was a little sensor. And what happens there is that when you put your eye up to the camera, it turns the sensor off. And usually this is a good thing, so I would leave it enabled if you want to leave it on all the time, you could disable this, but I think most people will want to leave this on enable all right date time zone. This is the date and time, and so I've always tried to estimate when I'm going to be delivering this class and exactly the time of day that I am in a I'm recently closely only about a half hour off right now, and so obviously get the right date and time in here and be aware that the it does not change when you change time zones or during daylight savings time. And so if you're jumping, springing forward or falling back, you need to go into your camera and adjust that by an hour. All right? If you see a language that looks like this year in problems because that is cling on and you'll want to, of course have the appropriate language that you like to speak, it might be english. The video system is ntsc here in north america, in the united states, in other parts of the world it's the pal system. And so you should know what system you're using in your country so that your camera can play back your videos on the right type of tvs uh, third till tab first option screen color oh, this is so critical here. What color is the screen of the lcd on the back of the camera? One is the standard color. If you wantto have fun with different colors, choose a different color feature guide okay, this is the helpful little tips that come up to explain what you are doing or trying to do on the camera. For the more advanced user, you're going to want to disable this because they're just going to drive you nuts for the new user to the camera you might want to leave it enabled to help learn about what the camera is doing. Once you get that figured out, you can come back to the feature guide and disable it. Touch control. This is for the touch screen on the back of the camera standard is fine. You could actually adjust this too sensitive, and that would work with certain types of gloves that you might want to use on the back right hand shoulder. The camera are the two focus buttons and the lock button if you would like to switch the operation of the buttons and the main reason you would do this is because if you want to use the a lock button, which is the ass trick, but more often you would make it more easy to get teo and so just a personal customization of the buttons there and for anyone who does want to do back button focusing, you may want to switch these along with the auto focus switch that you'll see a in a little minute in a minute here, we've talked about dust on the sensor in a couple different ways. The camera has an automatic sensor cleaning, and this is where we can turn that on or off. One of the other options we have in here is to manually clean the sensor, which is not something I recommend for most people with this camera, but the first step of it is pretty easy and I think everyone could do this. One is you get what's called a rocket blower or an air blower, and you take the lens off of the camera. You go to this setting in the camera and you go to manual cleaning clean manually and what it does is it pops the mere up, it opens the shutter and you can see the sensor for the camera in there and what you do is you blow air in there, you don't want to use canned air that's going to be a problem because it's got propellants in it, you blow this nice, clean, smooth air in there and hopefully it knocks off dust, what I do is I'll take my lens off. And I'll take a rocket blower and I'll hold the camera upside down trying to knock off the dust using gravity to help pull it out of the camera, and that usually does a pretty good job of cleaning the sensor if it doesn't work and you're careful with the way you hold things and you're going to fixing the repairing little things, you can use the swab and liquid method and there's a variety of these that are available out of the market, and the idea is that you're going to have to sweep the dust off the sensor, and so you put a couple drops of alcohol on the swab, swipe it across the sensor and clean off the dust. It's a careful process that not everyone enjoys dealing and so it's not for everyone, but it is an option, john. If people don't feel comfortable cleaning the censor themselves, can they take it into their local camera store? Their local camera store may not do it. You may have to go to a repair shop so they may have to send it out and may be gone for a week or so. And so I would definitely try the rocket blower era option, so just going on that will get most of this stuff off, and so if you're careful about the environments that you change lenses, so don't change lenses and really dusty bad environments. And so you're if you're in an australian dust storm, that's not the best time to be changing lenses get to know. All right. Next up is gps devices. Cannon makes a gps unit called gp two. You can hook this up to the camera and you can download gps information to your photographs as you take them. Now this device sells for about two hundred fifty dollars, and it will plug into the side of the camera and it will drain your batteries a bit quicker. And so it's going to bring your batteries even faster than all the other things eso it is. It is kind of a cool option, but you do need to have a reasonably good gps signal. It's a fairly large unit. So it's better than the in camera units that are now on some cameras. Okay, we're at our final tool tab. All right, here's, another one of those head scratchers for you, it's the certification logo. You get to see logos from companies that have done something for cannon that is certified not exactly real exciting in my book. Okay, we have stumbled upon yet another rabbit hole, so custom functions isn't just one little thing. It's a whole group of things so let's dive into custom functions and customize this camera all right? Number one on this list is the exposure level increments normally it's one third stops if you wanted to change it toe have stopped, you could most people don't, so I would just leave it at one third stop next up, I esso expansion all right, back at the beginning when we were talking about ice, so if you turn this on, it will allow you to go to twenty five thousand six hundred, which is terrible quality but minus will allow you to to do it. So I say turn this one on, I don't recommend shooting a twenty five thousand, but if you are ever in the need for turning it on, you don't have to dive here and turn it on, you know, enough when to go to it or not, and so I just I don't like those sorts of restrictions on setting the camera, so I'm going to turn that on the next one. Number three is called highlight tone priority and the intention here on the cameras. Very good, it's it's, an admirable effort on the cameras part what it's doing is it's trying to protect highlights, so in the example of a disabled versus enabled, the details in the highlight area are still there with the camera enabled, the downside of enabling this is that you can no longer shoot at aya's so one hundred which I think is a major detriment you have to shoot it two hundred or above if you are shooting in very contrast he scenes and you have a lot of highlights that air constantly getting blown out then this is something that I would advise to turn on but for general shooting I would leave this disabled next up number four auto focus assist being firing ok, so when you want to focus under low light conditions, your camera fires a siri's of short burst to help illuminate the scene so the camera can focus this is really annoying, so I highly recommend turning this off it may help some people in very low light situations I think if you get good with the focusing points and how and where to point the camera you won't need this and so I recommend for the more advanced users to turn this off next up is another more advanced mode that is called mere lockup and this is something that I don't envision somebody owning this camera using very often but I'm gonna give you a little bit of photographic education here. All right? So let me give you an example of what near lock that looks like so this is your diagram of the camera and you remember this from before, so when you press down on the shutter release, the mere goes up and it hits the top of the mir box so hard there is a slight vibration throughout the camera while the shutter is open and now closing. And so the camera is actually moving vibrating because of that mere coming up so fast. So if you enlist near lock up here's, what happens? Turn the turn on the mir lock up. And this would be a good case for using the cable release. The first thing you do is you press the shutter release, and what happens is the mere goes up and the vibrations happened the same as always. But you wait for them to settle out, and then you press the shutter release a second time and the picture is taken without any sort of vibration in the camera at all. So this is obviously on lee when you're working on a tripod, not handheld and it's only really important at a few different shutter speeds. And every once in a while I need mere lock up and I forget to put it in mere lockup. And so here is an example. I was down in yosemite national park and I was shooting this picture and I zoomed in on a small section of the tree and I realized my picture was not sharp at all. And then I thought about it for two seconds, and I realized I forgot to put my camera and near lock up. I turned near lock up on and I took another picture and there's a real world example of forgetting to turn it on and turning it on. I was shooting at one eighth of a second on a tripod I wasn't touching the camera, there was no vibrations except for the mere movie and with the shutter speeds, there is a vibration zone that ranges from around the thirtieth of a second toe about one second, and in that zone you're likely to have blurry pictures if you are shooting from a tripod and it's simply because the mirror is bouncing upwards and vibrating the camera a little bit and this is going to be and for anyone who does landscape architecture, macro or product photography where they're working off of a tripod at the's vibration zone, shutter speed so that's something that you may want to put if you do that type of photography into your mind menu, which we're going to get to in just a moment. And so it's not something I leave enabled all the time, it's just something I go into, turn it on for a few pictures and then I go back and I turn it off when I'm done with it, all right, continuing along number six is the shutter a lock button and what this is doing is it's controlling what controls auto focus and auto exposure the normal mode the normal setting on this is zero where your shutter release controls both the exposure and focus and that ass trick button in the back of the camera controls locking the exposure the more advanced mode the back button focusing that I've talked about is the third option here it's where the camera will do auto exposure with the front and will not focus with the fun you on ly the back button will focus and so if you want to do back button focusing, change it to number three for most everyone else you're going to probably want to leave it with the zero setting next menu item is determining what he set button does on the back of your camera. Normally it activates the quick control screen which I think is quite handy but you can have it jumped to do one of the other fee currently used settings that perhaps you use. I think for most people the quick control screen is going to be the best option there lcd display when the power is on and very simply that we just leave this on zero and basically when you turn off the lcd it's going to come back and do the same thing it was before but you could adjust it to do something different okay, this is gonna pop us back into customs setting for next one down copyright information. This is where you get to put your name on your camera so in this case you could type in your actual name you could type in your email information your website you don't have a lot of characters to work with here, but you can add in whatever information you want if you have totally not been paying attention for the last hour and you have screwed your camera up, you could clear all the settings in your camera back to the factory default by clearing the settings here so be careful you don't may not want to do that because we've just set your camera the way you want it to be so finally in this last item is firmware version your camera has software running it just like a computer has software running it and like computers have software updates in the camera it's called a firmware update which means that the software that is in the camera needs to be updated and you're not going to know about this unless you go to cannons website and there's a number of official cannon websites here in the united states we go to cannes in use a dot com and you go look up what camera you have and you look under firmware updates and right now there are no firmware updates on this camera we're in version one point, oh, point, oh, and occasionally from time to time, cannon finds a bug or an improvement, and they want to give free software to, and so what they do is they post the software at their website, you can download it to your computer, put it on a memory card, put it in the camera, go to firmware version here and update the firmware it's probably not a real critical thing that you need to do on this camera, but maybe they'll add some new features next year, and you get those features for free by just getting the software update and so something to check in the future. It's honestly, something you probably don't need check on, but if you really want the latest stuff, they may do it. They don't do a lot of firmware updates on cameras of this level, some of the professional level cameras, they'll put out an update every six months because they found a little tweak or something that they could do a little better, and that completes all the basic menu settings, and we'll goto some questions now before we get in to get to my menu. Excellent, thank you so much, john. All right, let's see another question from mango tango here in seattle again is their menu option to make small overall focus adjustments in body if my lenses are a little off right? Okay, so what they're asking about is a feature in other canon cameras called micro adjust and when you can adjust exactly where that focusing plane is the camera no, there is not in this camera. Okay, great. Another question from sam cox in colorado with mere lock up, how much time for the camera vibrations to dampen out? That is how much time between the first in the second shutter button presses right? The time between the first and the second depends on the tripod, the lens because lenses are big, and sometimes they're a little bit more wobbly because the wind is another factor as well, and that number needs to be somewhere between one and about eight seconds. In my opinion, if you're in a studio and you get your try good tripod on a good concrete floor, you could click it once weighed about a second and a half and you ready to go again? If you're sometimes out in the wind and you got a three hundred millimeter lens and that mere hits the top of the camera and the camera, you can just see it just barely moving, and after about five or six seconds it settles out, and so, as I say, you might need to wait eight seconds depends on conditions okay, great. Going back a few menu settings. Lens for me is asking if I use if I would that be one reason to shoot in raw and j pig, if I want to stream the smaller images to a computer like tethering to show a client might be the simplest answer. Yes. All right, there we go. And one more before we continue. Okay, great. Green tog asked, do you recommend changing that time in the quite camera when we go in and out of daylight savings time? Yeah, I think having the time in the camera is just simply a good log off where you were, what you were doing and it's, you know, a little bit of a pain twice a year to go in and change it by an hour, but I guess something else I'll mention. I am surprised at how much the clocks in this camera drift from real clocks, and so it might be a good time to just double check on your phone or your computer. Is it actually the right time? Because I've had him drift as much as five or ten minutes after a year's period of time. Or so so probably also change it if you're traveling to different time, different time zones and so for example, cuba. You want to go to cuba with us I think they're in the eastern time zones but different I'll be resetting my camera boy wouldn't that be embarrassing if I did it I don't know everybody found out about it all right let's continue on okay so this is the final tab in the menu settings is and this is called my menu because you get to choose what you put in there and so is you look in here one of the options you'll see his register to my menu and what you'll do is you'll go through a long laundry list of all the options of things that you can put in your menu now what you put in your menu is totally up to you it's your camera have fun here is some of the common settings that I've put in my camera formatting the memory card I do that on a regular basis so I want to have access to that I might change the image quality between ron j peg depending on the project I'm working on the battery info is kind of nice for checking battery information and mere lock up is something I do because I do a fair bit of landscape work in there and so those are some common ones now what you'll need to do beyond that is you'll need to go down to display from my menu which means that when you hit the menu button it doesn't start where you last left off, which would be the normal situation. It starts always at my menu. So the seven things that you fit in there are the ones is that you go to first. And then, if you want to get to the other ones, you can just tab left or tab to the right to go to the other menu settings.

Class Description

Join John Greengo for an in-depth step-by-step tour of the Canon® Sl-1. With a hands-on introduction to your camera's operations, detailed instructions on how all the menus work, and instruction on how to shoot great photos with this specific camera model.


  1. Introduction
  2. Buttons: Top Deck

    John Greengo provides a detailed guide to the buttons and functions found on the top deck of your camera.

  3. Buttons: Back Side
  4. Buttons: Sides, Front, Bottom
  5. Lenses
  6. Displays
  7. Menus: Shooting
  8. Menus: Playback, Setup, and Custom
  9. Camera Operation
  10. Next Steps



It's a great class for people that have a long attention span, tons of time and understand greek. I wish I'd bought a plain point and shoot camera as I apparently don't understand camera speak. I'm a get right down to it kind of person. It is a great class, it's just not for me because I don't understand any of it.


John is a great teacher and I learned so much more by taking the course as opposed to reading parts and pieces of the owner's manual. Thanks for teaching me about my camera.

Julia Ensign

Learned so much from this class and the photography beginners kit, now on to fundamentals! Can't wait!