So let's talk in depth about the mowed down so we're going to start off at the simplest most basic setting which is the a plus setting and so previous versions of the rebel just had a green camera or a green box and it was the auto setting and now it's the a plus setting and what that means is that your camera is actually going to try to understand what you're photographing and adjust the shutter speeds apertures meeting and some other features of the camera to fit that type of scenario and so if there's a person it might think you're shooting a portrait on so it's trying to guess what you're doing now the thing is is that you know what you're doing more than the camera does and so it would be better if you could just tell the camera and there's the next step which we will be able to do but this is a really good simple mode if you weren't a hand your camera to somebody that you didn't know and didn't have time to explain how it works here take my photo you know they can't get in and me...
ss things up because it does things very simply now I'm not a big fan of the auto mode for two reasons number one is it limits a lot of the other buttons and controls on the camera so let's say I want to get in and change the s o or I want to change my aperture setting or something in the menu setting there's a good chance that it's going to be blocked when it's in this a plus millet the other thing that I don't like and let me just show you this right here is that when I press this let's see if this happens actually we have enough light in here normally there's not enough light and what happens is that the flash will pop up if we don't have enough light and the flash is just gonna pop up whenever it gets too dark let's see if I can fake it into thinking there we go and so anytime it thinks it's dark it will pop the flash up and if you push the flash down which is just how you turn it off but it's dark it just keeps popping up and there are certain situations with flash is just not appropriate either it's not allowed the subjects or too far away or it's just going to break the mood 00:02:01.587 --> 00:02:04. of what you're trying to do right there and so flash 00:02:04.4 --> 00:02:06. is something I really think you need to be conscious 00:02:06.24 --> 00:02:09. about choosing whether you want to use that or not. 00:02:09.67 --> 00:02:13. So the next mode which is the flash off version of 00:02:13.81 --> 00:02:16. the scene intelligent auto mode it's exactly the same 00:02:16.94 --> 00:02:19. the only difference is is that the flash will not 00:02:19.69 --> 00:02:22. pop up and so it will allow you to shoot pictures 00:02:22.37 --> 00:02:25. no matter how dark it is but it won't pop the flash 00:02:25.38 --> 00:02:28. up so if you're in a museum that says no flash photography 00:02:29.27 --> 00:02:31. that would be one option is in the know flash mode 00:02:32.97 --> 00:02:36. now there is a creative auto mode on this camera and 00:02:36.07 --> 00:02:38. this is one of the few areas the camera that I'm not 00:02:38.49 --> 00:02:42. going to dive very far into this is a automated mode 00:02:43.37 --> 00:02:46. that gives you just a little bit of wiggle room for 00:02:46.61 --> 00:02:49. playing around with depth of field and faster shutter 00:02:49.93 --> 00:02:52. speeds it's kind of a learning mode and we're going 00:02:52.73 --> 00:02:54. to just kind of zoom right past it if you want to 00:02:54.89 --> 00:02:57. play around with it feel free to play around with 00:02:57.77 --> 00:03:02. it but just realize that it is limit it has serious 00:03:02.06 --> 00:03:04. limitations on how far you can take it you'll be able 00:03:04.2 --> 00:03:06. to go much further by just getting into some of the 00:03:06.54 --> 00:03:10. slightly more manual notes all right let's get into 00:03:10.25 --> 00:03:13. the other more dedicated seen modes and so this camera 00:03:13.21 --> 00:03:16. has four dedicated modes right on the top of the dial 00:03:17.37 --> 00:03:20. first one is portrait photography it assumes that 00:03:20.06 --> 00:03:21. you're taking a picture of somebody who might be moving 00:03:21.95 --> 00:03:24. around a little bit it gives you a little faster shutter 00:03:24.16 --> 00:03:26. speed and it's giving you a little bit shallower depth 00:03:26.79 --> 00:03:29. of field my problem with this mode is it doesn't give 00:03:29.47 --> 00:03:32. me enough shallow depth of field I could do more on 00:03:32.82 --> 00:03:35. my own and so I'm not a huge fan of this but it's 00:03:35.72 --> 00:03:39. slightly better than the a plus seen intelligent we 00:03:39.49 --> 00:03:41. have the landscape mode which is giving us a little 00:03:41.48 --> 00:03:44. bit more depth of field but not as much as I often 00:03:44.49 --> 00:03:47. like in my landscapes and so you khun doom or than 00:03:47.62 --> 00:03:50. this but it's a good quick way to kind of get to those 00:03:50.8 --> 00:03:54. general settings if you're not real sure about what 00:03:54.5 --> 00:03:57. to do manually or how to do it manually we do have 00:03:57.26 --> 00:03:59. a close up mode and one of the things I'll mention 00:03:59.03 --> 00:04:02. here is that it normally in a close up mode you need 00:04:02.26 --> 00:04:04. a lens that can focus up very close to the to the camera body and this close up mode has nothing to do with the lens it just has to do with camera settings assuming that you're shooting close up if you really want to shoot close up you need a lens that allows you to focus very close and there are some lenses that do that and some that don't we have a sports mode good for shooting any type of action where you need a little bit faster shutter speed and this gets you a little bit more in that field it doesn't go as far as I think it should or could but if you were going to be doing your local triathlon and you wanted a hand your camera to a friend to take photos for you and they didn't know how to work your camera that would be the best place to put it but if you really want to shoot sports yourself I think you're gonna be able to do better than the sports by the time we're done with this class and then we have the scene mode and the thing is here is that kanan wanted include a whole bunch more options for you but they didn't have a dial big enough to put everything on there and so there's all these different modes that you can have that you need to use thie screen at the back screen of the cameras so if we do a little camera demo here on the back of the camera, we've put our camera in the scene mode and now what we can do is we press this cuba and on the back which stands for quick menu and I can dial through at least on this camera or you could let's see what we could do the top dial if you don't have a back dial with an I and we can dial through choosing these different types of icons and we can see down here at the bottom night portrait handheld night scene and so just changing each of these and now in some of these we can go down and change the parameters a little bit, tweaking them ever so slightly and we're not going to do each of these individually in here, but there are additional scenes and so these are nice simple ways for getting the camera tweaked a little bit more one direction what I said before they limit the menu selections and a lot of the other controls on the camera and once you get to know this camera there's going to be way too many restrictions on these modes for most people and so you're going to wantto zoom past many of these but they're kind of handy if you don't have time and you just want to quickly get it set up in a general type of scenario for a particular type of situation so let's get over to the stuff that I am excited about the more manual options on the cameras and so we're going to go over to the p mode and once we get over to the p which stands for program it opens up the menus and all the controls for the rest of the camera now in the program of the camera is going to select shutter speeds and apertures for you the same as the scene intelligent note that a plus mode but now you have the option of going in and adjusting them by turning the shift I'll so let's do a little demo with our camera here and if we could see the back of our camera we can see that I have a shutter speed of one hundred twenty fifth of a second at f three point five and you'll see the same information if you look through the viewfinder yourself and with the sex asked you also see it on top but if I said you know what, those aren't quite the right shutter speeds for me I can turn the top dial and you can see how those numbers change if I said you know what I need more depth of field I can change them and so I'm going to change it to efs sixteen where sixteen oh I don't know I don't have sixteen right here fourteen all right now I'm gonna let the camera go to sleep there went to sleep now I come back to press the shutter release my camera has reset the numbers and this is sometimes nice but sometimes disturbing if I knew I wanted to shoot this at f twenty two and I waited for my six seconds to expire it resets and I have to keep resetting things over and over again and so it gets to be a little bit of a hassle if I let it go to sleep now if I press down lightly on the shutter release about every four seconds I can prevent it 00:08:02.234 --> 00:08:06. from going to sleep so if I'm actively shooting it's 00:08:06.4 --> 00:08:09. not a problem but as soon as I let it go to sleep 00:08:09.41 --> 00:08:10. it's going to reset 00:08:11.94 --> 00:08:15. back there back to its generic predefined starting 00:08:15.33 --> 00:08:19. point and so for quick one off shots one shot here 00:08:19.46 --> 00:08:22. one shot there it's a system that works pretty good 00:08:22.23 --> 00:08:25. but for any sort of repetitive shot it's not a great 00:08:25.56 --> 00:08:28. system to use all right back to the keynote 00:08:30.7 --> 00:08:31. so 00:08:32.6 --> 00:08:35. on the back of the camera with the s you have a dial 00:08:35.66 --> 00:08:38. that you khun turn and this will change the exposure 00:08:38.94 --> 00:08:42. compensation for those of you with the eye or previous 00:08:42.04 --> 00:08:44. rebels there's going to be a button on the back of 00:08:44.49 --> 00:08:47. the camera that says a v and has a plus and minus 00:08:47.57 --> 00:08:51. on it plus and minus is the symbol for exposure compensation 00:08:51.5 --> 00:08:54. and this is for making your picture lighter and darker 00:08:54.8 --> 00:08:56. now in the viewfinder you're going to see something 00:08:56.8 --> 00:09:00. that looks like this setup here and what it is is 00:09:00.15 --> 00:09:02. a viewfinder info it's going to show you from left 00:09:02.85 --> 00:09:06. to right your shutter speeds your apertures your light 00:09:06.15 --> 00:09:09. meter you're s o your birth steps which is how many 00:09:09.52 --> 00:09:11. pictures you can shoot real quickly and then a green 00:09:11.92 --> 00:09:14. dot for focusing and so what we're looking at is the 00:09:14.53 --> 00:09:16. first two numbers on the left are shutter speeds on 00:09:16.77 --> 00:09:19. rapture so if you put it in the programme mode you'll 00:09:19.44 --> 00:09:23. be able to use the program shift with the top dial 00:09:23.14 --> 00:09:25. and with the s you'll be able to shift the back dial 00:09:25.9 --> 00:09:28. and change your exposure compensation now the reason 00:09:28.94 --> 00:09:31. that you might want to do this is to make a picture 00:09:31.26 --> 00:09:34. that is normally exposed and then you're thinking 00:09:34.19 --> 00:09:36. well maybe this should be a little bit darker than 00:09:36.43 --> 00:09:39. average maybe by one stop as this example is or we 00:09:39.86 --> 00:09:42. want to make it brighter by one stop and so you could 00:09:42.56 --> 00:09:46. do a plus and a minus and so tell you what let's do 00:09:46.82 --> 00:09:50. a live demo shoot and I'm going to shoot just whatever 00:09:50.07 --> 00:09:52. scene that we have here and I'm going to do a normal 00:09:52.77 --> 00:09:55. exposure shot and then I'll do it under exposure shot 00:09:55.54 --> 00:09:58. so right now the camera is giving me a reading of 00:09:58.16 --> 00:10:00. one hundred twenty fifth of second at f three point 00:10:00.39 --> 00:10:03. five and I'm going to take one picture right here 00:10:03.6 --> 00:10:05. and we're not going to worry about looking at it for 00:10:05.14 --> 00:10:08. right now so I'm going to die elin a minus and you can see this moving over to the minus I'm going to take another shot and I'm going to go over here to the plus side and you'll notice as I go from the minus to the plus what the camera is doing is it's changing both shutter speeds and apertures and so now I'm going to take a plus one shot and so I'm going to play back these images and let's pull up a little bit of information here and I'm gonna go back to the first image so the first image was one twenty five and a three point five and then we did a minus one notice see how that's a little darker and then we're going to go to the next one, which is at one eightieth of a second of three point two, and this one was labeled as plus one so it's brighter than average by one stop. And so that was what we call a bracket siri's. Now the most important thing to know about this is to re set it back two zero because you don't want to leave your camera so we see my cameras on plus one, and I'm going to go ahead, tap lightly on the shutter, release tow, wake the camera up, and then I'm going to die a land that minus or back down to zero. So it's back at its normal position right there. So this is one of the great things about the six s is that we can quickly change this with the dial on the back of the camera. Now some people bump the cameras a lot. There is a lock switchback here that allows us to lock this so that it doesn't turn on us, so that is exposure compensation. Next up let's go to the time value mode this allows us to select a specific shutter speed and let the camera figure out the rest of the formula which would be the aperture and so in the case that we have right now I'm going to go ahead and let's do a little live demo here of our same shot if I said I want to shoot this at one sixteenth of a second the camera's going to say you need an aperture of somewhere between five and five six depending on exactly where it's pointed at and I could take that picture and it should come out looking pretty good now if I said you know what I want a faster shutter speed I could dial this up to say all the way up to five hundredth of a second and take that picture and we're going to have to pictures let me play these back now so we have this one at five hundredth of a second at two point oh and this other one looks exactly the same at a sixtieth that f five six it might look different we had action going on in front of here so we can choose different shutter speeds and get good quality results from it now there is a problem and that issa's if you dial in to faster shutter speed so let me dial in the top shutter speed on this camera which is for thousandth of a second and you'll notice on the back of the camera it is blinking one point eight that's the maximum aperture on this particular lens and the camera is warning me essentially telling me this is good but it's not good enough but let's take the photo because we can still take the photo and take a look at the picture and you'll notice the picture has come out very very dark on the camera and we need to dial this back on the shutter speed until we get to a number that is not blinking so we can shoot this at one eight hundredth of a second and there we can get a decent results again and so you do have to be careful and you can overrun your boundaries in time value and so I often times do not recommend that new and learning photographers use the time value mode because it is somewhat easy to outrun the camera's capabilities and so you do it it's not saying I don't recommend it you'd have to be very careful when using all right let's go to the next mode and this is one of my favorite modes the aperture priority mode let me go ahead and change this here so when aperture priority you get to change the aperture with the main dial on the camera and let's go ahead and do a little shooting demo of this and so actually I need to grab a prop in order to do this properly. So let me grab a nasal cameras, and we're going to shoot a little bit more real worlds here. So place this right here, and we're going to try to do a little shot, and I'm gonna flip it into a live you and we're going to talk more about live you here in a little bit, let's, see if I can get this framed up a little bit. So I'm going to shoot the first shot at very, very shallow depth of field, and I'm going to actually focus. They make sure I can get this that's, not what I wanted to dio. I want to get my focus set properly here, just a moment. And we're going to get all into this. Now. I still need to turn off the touch shutter. Okay, now I can focus. It does help to have the camera in auto focus, folks. That's, always an eye. I say. All right, so we're going to focus down here. And we have a product that is very close to us. And I'm going to shoot this picture in f one point eight. Simple there it isthe now I'm going to change the aperture by turning the top tile on the camera, and we're going to do the next one at f ate and we're not gonna worry about looking at that a little bit later, and then we're gonna go to the next one and go all the way to the end of the dial and go to twenty two. So we have three pictures we've taken take that and then we're gonna go back and we're going to play these. The first one was shot at one point eight. This gives us very shallow depth of field you can see what's in the background is extremely out of focus is we go to the next damage, which was shot at f eight notice the difference between these two images at one point eight in faa much more and focus on an f ate and f twenty two gives us the most amount of depth of field if we're trying to keep everything in focus now, these air pretty extreme ones, very close and the others very far away, so we just not able to do it from this position here, but any aperture you want to choose from the extreme of one point, eight properly exposed image to the other extreme f twenty two. We get a proper exposure and so we don't kind of outrun the boundaries of the camera and the reason is is because there's relatively few apertures that you can choose and there are tons of shutter speeds that the camera can work with in order to do this so this is a great mode for general photography because you could leave it at one setting that's fairly normal maybe around f for for just kind of average work and if you need shallow word up the field you can dial that in if you need more depth of field you can dial that in and you can just keep a close eye on the shutter speeds getting the shutter speeds that you might want to use and so I think that's a great mode for a lot of people who are getting into photography that one a little bit of automated help but still wantto have some manual control over what's going on and remember on these last three modes aperture value time value and programme mode you khun do exposure compensation by turning the back dial on the camera or in the case of the other rebels hitting the plus minus button you have to hold it down while you turn the main dial and that's where a lot of people make a mistake is they have to have two button two fingers on the camera in order to make that change all right manual mode all right this is where we're getting serious this is where you're taking control of your camera and so this is where you get to select shutter speeds and aperture so let's do a little live shooting demo here and I'm going to show you just this basic screen on the back of the camera so now we have shutter speeds controlled on the top of the camera and with the six s we have our apertures controlled in the back of the camera you can see our apertures changing as I turn this wheel on the top of my shutter speed here now this is where you need to press halfway down on the shutter release and notice where the light meter is and so the light meter says that I am about one and the third stops under exposed so I need to let in more light so I'm going to change my aperture toe let in more light and so this is a properly exposed photo so I can take a picture here and we get a properly exposed shot now if I said you know what, that isn't really the combination that I want I would prefer to have something more around f two point eight and now you can see the reading is way off to the right we're more than three stops off so I'm going change my shutter speeds and one of the things you'll know if you knew lotuses that I keep touching the shutter release and that's because I'm waking the camera up preventing it from go to sleep because I change now it's changing the shutter speeds but I don't see the meter reading changing and I've had numerous people in classes gold my camera's broken no just press lightly on the shutter release there's our light meter now I'm going to change my shutter speeds until I get to zero and right they're going to take another picture and there's our shot let's compare these two shots which should look identical to you the viewer at home but you'll notice in the bottom left of the screen are shutter speeds and apertures are very different and so is you get to learn photography more you will get two have very specific choices that you're going to want to make as to where your shutter speeds where your apertures are as well as your s o s well, we're going to talk about all of these features as we get a little bit more into the camera so that is the manual mode on the camera highly recommend using that when you wanna learn photography and when you were shooting situations that you know you're going to be shooting a lot of photos under a similar lighting situation. So for instance, let's say you're you're going to a basketball game and you knew you're going to photograph people out on the basketball court that are all illuminated by the lights there. Those lights are not going to change. The shutter speeds and apertures for that entire game are going to be exactly the same to get the same type of shots. If you were to go outside on a nice, sunny day and you're going to be shooting out in the sun. That's. Another good time to be shooting in the manual mode because you get to die. Elin, you're specific settings that you want tohave so highly recommend working with manual it's going to make you a better photographer. And so what you'll be doing in the viewfinder and its card to show you that because you got to get your eye right up to the viewfinder, is that you're going to be seen this. If you find her information, you'll have your shutter speed, your aperture, and then you'll have your light meter in. What you're trying to do is to trying to get that little green line lined up right in between the two ones, which is the zero setting for even exposure. Now, speaking from a more advanced perspective, it doesn't need to be exactly in the middle. Some cases are going to be a little bit to the left of the line, in some cases, a little bit to the right toe line. Sometimes you want to overexpose and some other cases under expose certain scenes. And so it doesn't have to be right in the middle. But it generally that's a good place to start with your first shocked.