Canon® Rebel T6s/T6i Fast Start

Lesson 31 of 33

Set-up 4 Menu

 

Canon® Rebel T6s/T6i Fast Start

Lesson 31 of 33

Set-up 4 Menu

 

Lesson Info

Set-up 4 Menu

00:00:02.18 --> 00:00:03. All right folks we're getting near the end this is 00:00:03.89 --> 00:00:08. the last big set up paige certification logo just 00:00:08.13 --> 00:00:11. shows you some of the logos of how the camera's been 00:00:11.2 --> 00:00:15. certified not really all that exciting next up custom 00:00:15.93 --> 00:00:18. functions just when you thought we were getting to 00:00:18.47 --> 00:00:21. the end we've hit another rabbit all and there's a 00:00:21.0 --> 00:00:25. whole menu within menus in here and so let's get into 00:00:25.1 --> 00:00:27. the custom functions and talk about some of these 00:00:27.57 --> 00:00:30. nitty gritty details that could be tailored for the 00:00:30.32 --> 00:00:33. way you like to work first up do you prefer to work 00:00:33.51 --> 00:00:37. in third stop or half stop increments and this is 00:00:37.21 --> 00:00:39. just the different shutter speeds that you get to 00:00:39.07 --> 00:00:41. choose everybody gets the whole stops the two f...

ifty 00:00:41.59 --> 00:00:44. one twenty five sixty eighth of a second but do you 00:00:44.46 --> 00:00:47. prefer to work in third stops or half stops most people 00:00:47.29 --> 00:00:49. prefer to keep it in the third stops because it's 00:00:49.14 --> 00:00:52. the finest increment that you can really notice with 00:00:52.12 --> 00:00:54. your eyes who this is just a tiny bit brighter than 00:00:54.81 --> 00:00:57. that one that's probably a third stop difference so 00:00:57.93 --> 00:01:00. I have ah an old light meter that's works in half 00:01:00.41 --> 00:01:02. stops which I could see if I use that light meter 00:01:02.86 --> 00:01:05. a lot it would match up with that other device 00:01:06.88 --> 00:01:09. so I would just keep this at third stops so as you 00:01:09.61 --> 00:01:11. can see along the bottom there are fourteen different 00:01:11.8 --> 00:01:14. items down here and as we change items it's going 00:01:14.67 --> 00:01:16. to change down on the bottom. So, for instance, in 00:01:16.63 --> 00:01:19. this case, I do want to be able to go up to that twenty 00:01:19.51 --> 00:01:22. five thousand if I should need it. And I would like 00:01:22.4 --> 00:01:25. to turn this on. And so when we turn this on down 00:01:25.87 --> 00:01:28. at the bottom, you can see the second item in custom 00:01:28.96 --> 00:01:32. functions has been changed from zero to one that's, 00:01:32.56 --> 00:01:35. our indication that we've made a change in this particular 00:01:35.47 --> 00:01:37. custom function. So that's one that I'm going to make 00:01:37.88 --> 00:01:42. a change in let's, go to number three, highlight tone 00:01:42.96 --> 00:01:47. priority. So, if you recall, this is the one, remember 00:01:47.0 --> 00:01:49. zords are images, there's, our images that would protect 00:01:49.72 --> 00:01:50. the highlights 00:01:51.78 --> 00:01:54. in images. But the problem is, is that no longer allows 00:01:54.74 --> 00:01:58. us to shoot at s o one hundred, and so, I think that's, 00:01:58.16 --> 00:02:00. a major disadvantage, and so I'm not going to use 00:02:00.66 --> 00:02:03. this for most types of photos. Don't recommend it. The auto focus. Assist beam firing so there's, a way of illuminating the subject by firing the flash very brightly. And this is very disturbing, both on your subject. And I was working in it with a photo group, and I had one person that was firing off this light. And when I was shooting a picture, I was shooting a picture of all their light firing off. And so it was very disruptive to the other photographers in the group that this was going on. And so it doesn't work for a very long distance. So I think you're probably better off just disabling it. If you do add on an additional cannon flash, you can use an infrared being. But once again, that may be distracting to your subject that you're photographing. No control, so turning that one off is another change. Okay, so how do we change our focusing points? Remember, we pressed the area button on the top of the camera repeatedly to change where things were. If you want to, you could use the main dial. Some people prefer working with the main dial it's, not the normal system, but it's, a perfectly logical system. But I think pressing that button is very easy to do, so I'm not recommending to change here at all. Auto focus point selection color tracking so this is this is this is a little fancy mogul okay so this is a little little juju that the camera's throwing in on things so what the camera is doing is it's looking for skin tones and it's trying to use that information along with other focusing information in order to track your subjects and this only works in the one shot mode so when you're trying to get just one shot off of your subject and it seems like okay if you're smarter than I am and how to focus I'm gonna let you do it there is that philosophy but the problem is is that sometimes it actually slows the whole process down and so you can give this a try and see if this works for you and make your own decision on it but I think is a default kind of a simple nice plain setting I'm going to leave it disabled on the camera and so we should have meant to disable that made a mistake okay I would I would disable them next up is thie f point display during focus all right so there's a lot of options here as to how and when you see the focusing points on your camera so the first selection is the zero selected and so whatever points you have selected you get to see and this makes perfectly logical sense option number one is you look at all the points all the time and that's way too much information going on in the screen, number two shows them to you on lee when you're focusing and when they've locked in. The problem is, is that when you're not focusing, you're not sure which focusing points are active, and so I'm not a big fan of those. Unless you were really dialed into your camera, the third one's will on ly show you the focus points briefly when you're focusing, and so they're only visible on ly for the faintest amount of time. And then the final one doesn't ever show them to you at all. And so, it's, how often do you want to see your focusing points in your camera? The zero setting is the normal standard setting. I would just leave it there. Viewfinder display illumination. Okay, so the focusing points as they become active, and as you work with them, they will be dark in bright situations, and they will be bright in dark situations. And so the question is, do you want himto automatically switch back and forth? Do you prefer them in black all the time, or read all the time? I think they are easiest to see left in their auto mode. It's. Why we keep that here unless you really don't like the black or the red showing up all the time. Number nine mere lockup so there is an option for locking the mirror up and let me explain a little bit about what's going on what about what's what this is for so when the camera takes a photo and the mere goes up it causes a vibration in the camera because it's moving out of the way very quickly that vibration occurs right when the shutter is happening and it may cause a blurriness in some photos when you use taking a normal photo typically this is going to be on a tripod where you would have this vibration so the way that you eliminate this problem is you use the mere lockup mode on the camera and here's how the camera now works the first press of the shutter release will lock up the mere so let's lock up the mere with a shadow press we pressed down on the shutter the mere goes up there's the same vibration there always is but we wait for a moment tow let it settle out now we press the shutter release a second time so that we can fire the shutter now of course you're going to want to be using a cable release so that you're not actually touching the camera when you do this press the shutter again it's going to lock the mirror up and then again it's going to actually fire a photo now this slight vibration that happens when you get that near up and out of the way seems like it's a little nit picky that isn't really that much of a problem well, here's a re a world example I was shooting photos of these trees and I looked at the results and I was thinking this is not very sharp in its resolution and I went, oh, I'm at one eighth of a second I don't have mere lockup on let's try mere lock up and see how much sharper it is and he's so here is the actual we're all real world difference of how much sharpness difference there wass and I was using a very expensive tripod getting this shot and it was still blurry simply because of this mere slap vibration now what you'll find is that you don't need to use mere lock up in every scenario it's when you're on a tripod in the vibrations own shutter speeds in and around one eighth of a second so anywhere from maybe a thirtieth of a second down to a full second is where this mere lockup would reduce and eliminate any of that vibration when you're taking your photo now rather than having to jump into mere lock up and turn this on another quick and easy way to do essentially the same thing is to simply put your camera in the live view mode because when it's in the live you mowed that near is up and out of the way and using a decent quality tripod and using the cable release and you're not going to get vibrations and blurriness in your photos and so that is something that would only need to be turned on in very special situations. All right number ten in the custom functions is control over the way our camera focuses and meters now the way our cameras normally come from the factory is with the shutter release button controlling exposure and focus and then there's this lock button on the back of the camera where we can lock the exposure now if you select option number one in here which is commonly referred to is back button focusing it allows you to not focus with the shutter release that's right not focusing with the shutter release if you want to focus you press the star button in the back of the camera your camera will focus and then once your camera's focus you can choose when and where you want to shoot a photo and then press the exposure and take put and take a photo at that point or just take a light meter reading and the reason that this has done is to separate the exposure and focus process so that once you focus on something you don't have to worry about going back and re focusing it if that distance hasn't changed. So for instance if I was going to photograph a subject a person and I'm going to do a portrait I focus on them. Let's assume they're standing still and I'm standing still I can focus on them and then I can reposition the camera and compose it however I want and take pictures as much as I want because I already set my focus at the beginning of the whole set up now if I moved to a different position that I might refocus slightly and then taken more another series of photos and so this tends to work out really well when you want to do a variety of composition but you don't want to do the focus hold and lock technique that you normally have to do by focusing on a subject leaving your finger halfway down and re composing it's something that takes a little getting used to so I don't recommend it for a beginner this is their first week with the camera it's going to seem a little awkward but if you've got a little bit of time in the camera and you're looking to kind of take your technique to the next level this is a great way to go because I have heard from so many professional and serious photographers that this is the on ly system that they would use and they would never go back and I don't know that I've ever heard of someone who's used back button focusing gotten good at it and then reverted back to the original system once you figure it out, you start seeing the light and realizing it how good it is. But it does take a little bit of transition time. Its not something easy to pick up on. And I absolutely do not recommend this. If you're ever going to give your camera to someone else to shoot photos, because they are not going to be able to understand it and get it, it takes a little bit of practice. And so this is. This is something to build up to, folks. There's a couple of other options but that's the main one is going to the back button focusing all right he set button on the back of your camera if you've just taken your camera out of the box the set button on its own does nothing it's only once you have something else selected so you can go in and you can customize what it does and you can choose whatever you want you know changing the esso setting would be nice but there's a button on the top of that turning the menu on would be kind of nice because that way you don't have to use your left hand to reach around to turn the menu on and so I think maybe the menu display might be one of the better options but there's a few other options in there for whatever you you like to do ok item number twelve lcd display win power on and so what type of display does the back of the camera show you display on let me check my notes on this one it basically is goingto so when you power the camera on now where my lost lime lost on this so the previous display obviously displays whatever was last on the display the display on kind of goes back to its normal set up every time you turn the camera off and back on so let's say you leave the level you like that level on the back of the camera. You like that on all the time. This is where you would leave it on previous display status. If you kind of want it just to revert back to its normal status. That's, when he would leave it just in the standard display on mode, which is my recommendation. Oh, I didn't say that previous display status, whatever you had, is probably what you liked, that that was my philosophy. I changed my mind. Okay, number thirteen, multifunction lock. So this is for the t six s users. Only when you flip the little lock on the back of the camera, do you want it? Toe lock the quick control dial or the main dial on the camera so that little walk normally it's just going to lock the quick control dial because that's, the one that's usually more accidentally bumped as you carry the camera, say, by a shoulder strap in that rubs past your belt, for instance. But you can have it lock the main dial as well. And our final item in the custom functions number fourteen, which for you t six I users, is number thirteen, is retract lens. When power off. So can. It has a number of new lenses, and this is one of them here. This is an s t m linz, and I don't know that we're going to really be able to see much of this work and let's, see if I can get this to work. Okay, so you can see the lands. As I turned the focusing ring, it zooms in and out. And so when I turn the camera off. The camera retracts the lens for me because that's its normal state of position and so these s t m lenses are just kind of unusual we go ahead and turn this back on I'm going to manually focus and you can see that it's a manual focus it's what's known as fly by wire it's not a direct control because you can see there's a little bit of leg between when I move my finger and where the lens moves and so sometimes if you leave it out here and then we were to do something drastic like remove the lens okay so the lenses removed too now and this is stuck in the outward position and I can't I can't retract it in anyway and so it's I can't even go in here to manual focus and I can't turn the ring because it's not a direct control it's an electronic control and so I have to put it back on the camera I didn't harm anything by doing that and it still works is normal but with this mode turned on when I turn the camera off it automatically just as part of the cycle retracts lends to its standard position so I think that's a good mode so I'd leave that enabled so there's a few things that I would change in the custom functions you might find some others that work for the type of photography and the way that you like to interact with the camera. All right, copyright information. This one is a cool little secret mode. This is where you get to enter your name into your camera. Now, this is going to go into the metadata the photos of you that you take. So if you take a photo with your camera with your name on it, you posted on your website and somebody takes it off your website. It's gonna have your name in the metadata. So if they wanted to get a hold of you, they could at least find out who you are. You could also put in your address, or at least your website or other email information. Also, if your camera got stolen, the person who stole your camera may not know much about cameras. And they may not know that this is even in the camera. And so if it does ever end up showing up at the police station, you can prove that. It's your camera it's got your name right into the camera details. It's not absolute proof that it's your camera. But it's a least one indication. And so can you give me your camera. I'm gonna enter my name into your camera without you knowing about it. Great trick to play on your friends. All right. Finally, if you've been playing around the camera for the last hour in the class and you think and you know, I think I got everything messed up. Let's, just go back to the factory settings. You can clear all the settings in here, on the camera, you can clear all the settings, and then you can also go in and clear all the custom settings as well, which are two different clearings that you could do. Firmware version firmware is the software that runs this cameron. From time to time, cannon finds that they made a mistake, and there is an improvement or something that they want to change about the software in the camera, and they will post at their website new information that you can download and put on your camera. And so right now I checked last night, we were it still version one point. Oh, point o on this camera, they don't tend to make a lot of software adjustments on the rebel cameras, but from time to time, there is a little problem. And so they posted on their web site. You can go to their website and follow their instructions for downloading it and putting it on your camera. And that'll give you the latest software. The latest upgrades that may be available.

Class Description

Join John Greengo for a complete introduction to the Canon® Rebel T6s/T6i in this Fast Start. 


You’ll learn why the Canon® Rebel T6s/T6i is the go-to camera for all levels of photographers and how you can get the most out all of its features and functions. John will teach you how to: 

  • Ensure you come away with a high resolution image every time you shoot 
  • Take advantage of the 19-point autofocus system 
  • Harness the power of the camera’s impressive frame rates 

The Canon® Rebel T6s/T6i Fast Start will prepare you to take advantage of each and every one of your camera’s buttons, menus, and features.

Reviews

Jen Hubbenator
 

Feeling pretty good about my T6s purchase! John's teaching style was fabulous, and I am left feeling pretty confident and a lot less overwhelmed!

rodrigo andrade
 

Great Class! John Greengo is an amazing teacher. I have a t6i for like 6 months and this class helped me a lot. Totally worth the money!

a Creativelive Student
 

As a student of John's for the past 2 years with the Fundamentals of Photography, the Nikon D3300 and D5500, I recently traded my Nikon D3300 for the Canon EOS Rebel T6i. As always, the training was superb, easy to understand, and I feel better in being able to use a digital camera. The reason for the switch in manufacturers was because of the ease of use of the Canon. I look forward to referring back to the lessons if I need a refresher course. Thank you, John. Your teaching is starting to click, finally.