Canon® Rebel T6s/T6i Fast Start

Lesson 10 of 33

Viewfinder Display

 

Canon® Rebel T6s/T6i Fast Start

Lesson 10 of 33

Viewfinder Display

 

Lesson Info

Viewfinder Display

And what we're going to doing now is moving on to the back side of the camera so obviously this is where we see our power switch we've got that turned on next big one is the menu button and this is where kind of all the features and onoff options for the camera lie and we're actually going to be saving this for the last third of the class and we're going to be going in concentrating on the rest of the buttons for the back of the camera all right? So we'll deal with that one later as you saw earlier this is the info button and as we press the info button it will cycle through different groups of information that we can take a look at and see how the camera is set and so let me do a little live devil real quickly on my camera here and we go ahead and wake my camera up and so we've been using this one because it really clearly shows us very clearly and easily what's going on with the cameras so that could be changed by pressing the info button turning it off we have this setting which I p...

retty much never used, but it does tell us how we have a number of settings on our camera currently situated and if we press this again at least in the six s model, we have this horizon level which allows us to see if we're tilted left or right some of the fancy cameras will go forward and backwards as well but this one we can get it tilted right where it says green and we can lock it in and there it is it's perfectly level in that regard and so that's all done through the info button on the back of the camera now we do also have a touch screen on this camera so that we can go through the camera and perform a lot of the functions on screen as supposed to using the actual buttons if you don't like the tux touch screen not a problem because there's pretty much a dedicated button or group of buttons for controlling everything on the camera the viewfinder is the best way of using this camera for most types of photography so if you're shooting standard photos you're going to use the viewfinder hold the camera up to your eye it's in a steadier position you'll have a great clear view of how good the focusing it yes on the cameras so that's how I prefer to use it for most situations there is a dis display sensor which will automatically turn off the sense or the display in the back of the camera if we want to go ahead and show the back of the camera let me do do a little demo here for you is this being on is a bit of a problem when you get your eye up to the camera so what happens on this camera as we get up closer to it it automatically turns off and it's just a proximity sensor that the six s has that the eye does not there is actually a button on the top of the six I which is going to be right up here that's going to turn that I think it says display that turns that display manually on and off but this is going to be normally in an automatic mode which is why you will occasionally see me in this class very carefully trying to move my hand in a way so as not to block that sensor on the camera so uh that is something that can be also turned off as we'll see later on in the menu system on both cameras there is a diop ter adjustment knob and this controls the focusing of the viewfinder as you look through the camera this is something that occasionally gets bumped on my camera from time to time and I looked through the camera and I'll think my eyes are getting really bad but actually what it is is it just got turned on what you want to do is you want to look through the viewfinder and turn this dial until the numbers and the display at the bottom of the screen are nice and sharp that means your eyes are focused on the screen which just in case you're wondering is theoretically it's one meter away so if you can focus at one meter away you can adjust this for your eyes we do have a removable I cup which camera replaced let me just do a quick little show you on that one here so the back of the camera if you squeeze both sides and it's a it's a very soft rubber so it's very nice to use with normal glasses or sunglasses and so they occasionally might wear out after after of quite a bit of use and you can get different types of ones and so that is a replaceable piece that you can put on the camera but let's talk about what you see in the viewfinder because that's what we're going to be looking at a lot of the time when we're using this camera first off the framing on this camera is ninety five percent accurate which means that you are going to get five percent more than you actually see in the framing of this camera it is designed that way for I think a couple of reasons number one to save money and number two so that when you get something in frame you know it's going to be in frame and so if you get a little bit more than you expected it's because this is actually capturing that five percent more than you see in the viewfinder next up we have are focusing points we talked about these in the previous section about how to select them and so forth, and you will see them in the viewfinder when you are working with the camera. But this camera has many different levels of customization, and so one of the things that you could do is you can go into the set menu in the custom functions under number seven a f point display, and you can describe exactly when you want those focusing points to show up. For instance, you may want to be there all the time, or you may not want him to be there any of the time, or you might want to be there just when you're focusing. And so we'll talk about this more as we get into the menu section of it. But just trust me for now that you can customize these to the ways that you liketo work on what you want to see in the screen, and with the different focusing modes that you choose, you can do this all with your eye at the camera level, simply pressing our focus mode button on the top of the camera, cycling through our three different modes, and you will see that symbol in the top part of the frame. Next up, we have our spot metering system. We haven't talked about our meeting systems yet, but one of them is a spot metering system, which uses that green circle in the middle of the frame for measuring light. And so, if we wanted to get a very pinpoint reading of 00:06:01.865 --> 00:06:04. light, we could use the spot metering. And that simply 00:06:05.06 --> 00:06:08. showing us where that area is in the viewfinder. 00:06:10.76 --> 00:06:14. Next up is a level system we saw earlier level system 00:06:14.89 --> 00:06:16. that's on the back the camera but there is a different 00:06:16.86 --> 00:06:19. level system that you can see actually in the viewfinder 00:06:19.96 --> 00:06:22. and this is something that you can elect to have turn 00:06:22.15 --> 00:06:24. on or off and you'll be able to do that in the setup 00:06:24.35 --> 00:06:28. menu number two under viewfinder display and so if 00:06:28.59 --> 00:06:30. you're constantly tilting the camera this is something 00:06:30.93 --> 00:06:34. that you may want to turn on to kinda keep you reminded 00:06:34.21 --> 00:06:37. about what is correctly level in the camera now I 00:06:37.37 --> 00:06:40. prefer to have my viewfinder as clutter free as possible 00:06:40.84 --> 00:06:44. so usually I leave things turned off unless I specifically 00:06:44.44 --> 00:06:44. need them 00:06:46.76 --> 00:06:50. okay moving on we have a grid screen some people like 00:06:50.4 --> 00:06:53. this for compositional work whether it's artistic 00:06:53.12 --> 00:06:56. or architectural reasons or keeping horizons level 00:06:56.59 --> 00:06:59. is just another tool that you can use for help composing 00:06:59.52 --> 00:07:01. a pure images this is something that could be turned 00:07:01.75 --> 00:07:04. on and off again once again in that setup menu 00:07:06.76 --> 00:07:09. there are a variety of other warnings one of the interesting 00:07:09.69 --> 00:07:13. things that this camera has is that it has a flicker 00:07:13.09 --> 00:07:16. warning warning us when we are getting a flicker in 00:07:17.05 --> 00:07:20. images now what happens is in some lighting situations 00:07:20.74 --> 00:07:23. there's certain types of fluorescent lighting that 00:07:23.78 --> 00:07:26. are not even in their power source they actually are 00:07:26.99 --> 00:07:29. up and down there more pulses but they happened so 00:07:29.36 --> 00:07:31. quickly that our eyes don't see them but sometimes 00:07:31.98 --> 00:07:35. our cameras are shooting pictures so fast we actually 00:07:35.1 --> 00:07:40. see this a cz uneven light sources. So the most common 00:07:40.16 --> 00:07:42. scenario one that I've actually encountered is in 00:07:42.72 --> 00:07:46. a gymnastics arena that is lit with a certain type 00:07:46.75 --> 00:07:49. of lighting that is not continuous lighting. It's, 00:07:49.77 --> 00:07:52. fluctuating my eyes, didn't notice it. But as I shot 00:07:52.75 --> 00:07:54. pictures at a five hundredth of a second 00:07:55.73 --> 00:07:58. manually, they looked different and it's because the 00:07:58.78 --> 00:08:00. light levels were slightly different. And so this 00:08:00.97 --> 00:08:04. camera has a warning, and it will let you know now beyond that there's, another setting that we'll get to that will automatically time the camera to the peaks of these lighting fluctuations so that you get consistent lighting with as much light as possible, which is a very interesting feature. That's, fairly new. And this is only the second camera in the world that does this now in order just to see the warning of it. That is going to be also in that setup menu as well. There is also the option of shooting in different aspect ratios. Now, this standard aspect is three by two, which is the native size of the sensor in this camera. But if you wanted a different aspect ratio because it was going to be printed and put in a frame, or it's going to be on a high definition monitor where you wanted to square image, you can change the aspect ratio. But I'm not a big fan of this, because you're cropping pixels from the image that you might want later on. And so I tend to leave this in three by two. But it will show you in the viewfinder. What these different crop marks are going to be if you have him set. Down at the bottom of the camera is our led information and so this is our most critical information about how the camera is being shot. So first up is the a auto exposure lock indicator we're going to show you this button here in a moment but this means that you have locked the exposure while you are moving the camera to a different position. There is a number of different symbols here. Lightning bolt is flash lets you know that the flash is going to fire or has popped up. There is an option with external flashes to do a high speed sync so that you can shoot at shutter speeds faster than the normal flash synchronization which is one two hundredth of a second that's the maximum shutter speed you can use with flash but there's a way to go over it when you have special equipment and finally there is a flash exposure lock that you can do where you do a test firing of the flash it figures out the exposure and then you take the photo I'll show you how to do that here in a moment when we get to that button on the camera flash exposure compensation we did talk about this a little bit earlier we were where we were powering the flash down so that it's not quite as powerful as it as it normally wants to be so just toning it down just for taste purposes and you will see this in the viewfinder. Next up, the first number of the most important numbers here, the shutter speed and the aperture, those air numbers that you're going to be looking at on a regular basis. Next up, we have our exposure level, so it shows us if we're over exposed, our underexposed will also be adding in our exposure. Compensation on this scale is well. Next up is highlight tone priority. I'm going to talk about this later as we go into it, it's, a special mode that we can put our cameras into to protect highlight tones in an image, right. The third critical number is our s o setting on our camera. The standard default setting is is a one hundred. We would use a higher eso for low light situations where we're needing faster shutter speeds. A couple of little warnings in here. How you might have the camera set up. One is, if you have done a an adjustment to the white balance system, which will be going into in the menu section. And then you can also shoot this camera in a black and white mode. So if you wanted to get straight black and white images out of the camera, it's going to let you know that you have that mode turned on. The next number is what is known as thie, maximum burst or the buffer number. This is how many pictures you can shoot right away right now, and that is going to depend on how you have your camera set up, whether it's in raw or j peg images. So let me do a real world example right now, and so on this camera, you can't see it. So I have to look through my camera, and my camera is on six, so what's gonna happen is I'm going to fire, and I'm gonna go to manual focus just so that this fires as quickly as possible, and we're going to see how many pictures it takes. Here we go, wait, I gotta put it in the motor drive mode. I kind of forgot about that one, so let's, just change this real quickly. All right, here we go again. I got I counted seven shots, and then there was an eighth, and so it counted seven, and so, officially it shoot six and what's trying to do is if I go longer than that. Let's go longer than that. Ok, the camera's memory buffer is full and it's trying to right information to the memory, and it slows down. Now. It'll go like this for pretty much forever now, if I was to go in and change it to, and actually I was in raw, plus large let's. Try this in straight, ross. See how many we get. I got about ten before it cut out, and if we go into j peg and just shoot a large j pick and we're going to get to these settings in a moment, folks, so don't worry about what is he doing, what's he doing? I'll do that later, so in large j peg, we're not gonna wait for the storm out, okay? Because this just these are all real pictures were taken, folks, and so in the j peg mode, there is an advantage because you can keep shooting continuously much, much longer than in those raw mouths, and so talk more about that as we get to it. But that's what? That number shows us over on that right hand side. And then finally, there is a green dot, which is a visual confirmation that the camera has achieved focus, and so this is gonna be kind of handy when you just want to look in the viewfinder for confirmation that did the camera actually focus on the subject the other way? The camera does. This is through an audible beeping sound, which I find a little annoying when you keep hearing the beeping sound and be be be beep all the time, and so I'm going to recommend turning that off a little bit later on so that's what we see in the viewfinder display

Class Description

Join John Greengo for a complete introduction to the Canon® Rebel T6s/T6i in this Fast Start. 


You’ll learn why the Canon® Rebel T6s/T6i is the go-to camera for all levels of photographers and how you can get the most out all of its features and functions. John will teach you how to: 

  • Ensure you come away with a high resolution image every time you shoot 
  • Take advantage of the 19-point autofocus system 
  • Harness the power of the camera’s impressive frame rates 

The Canon® Rebel T6s/T6i Fast Start will prepare you to take advantage of each and every one of your camera’s buttons, menus, and features.

Reviews

Jen Hubbenator
 

Feeling pretty good about my T6s purchase! John's teaching style was fabulous, and I am left feeling pretty confident and a lot less overwhelmed!

rodrigo andrade
 

Great Class! John Greengo is an amazing teacher. I have a t6i for like 6 months and this class helped me a lot. Totally worth the money!

a Creativelive Student
 

As a student of John's for the past 2 years with the Fundamentals of Photography, the Nikon D3300 and D5500, I recently traded my Nikon D3300 for the Canon EOS Rebel T6i. As always, the training was superb, easy to understand, and I feel better in being able to use a digital camera. The reason for the switch in manufacturers was because of the ease of use of the Canon. I look forward to referring back to the lessons if I need a refresher course. Thank you, John. Your teaching is starting to click, finally.