White Balance and Picture Styles

 

Canon® Rebel T6s/T6i Fast Start

 

Lesson Info

White Balance and Picture Styles

Let's talk about the lcd display. The lcd is a touch display, and so you can use it just like many people's smartphones as faras zooming in and looking at images and magnifying them so you can scroll around. Look at different parts of the image. You can use your pinch to zoom in, as well as zooming out you, khun. Scroll through your different images. Tap on an image. Double tap on an image will magnify that image so that you can look more closely at it. And so the touch screen will work in a in a number of different ways, whether it's reviewing images or shooting images. And so we'll play around with that as we continue to go through the camera. All right, so if you don't want the touch control, you can turn it off so that it doesn't accept any input from being touching the screen. And so this is something that could be controlled in the setup menu. Number three under touch control. So those are some of the primary things on the back of the camera. Let's, talk about a few more. Alright...

, so auto exposure lock, flash exposure lock so let's, do a little live demo here, let me put my camera in aperture value, and so I'm going to choose an aperture of f ate and you'll notice the shutter speed is one tenth of a second. But if I move the camera around, you'll see that that number changes according exactly to what's in the frame there. Okay? And so if I press the auto exposure lock, that number no longer changes, it stays exactly the same. And so, in fact, it locks it in until the camera goes to sleep. We'll let it go to sleep and we'll activate it again. And so now it's changing. And if I said, you know what I think a thirteenth is the right number. I can lock that in, and now it stays the same as I pan around the room. 00:02:01.42 --> 00:02:04. But once it goes to sleep it resets itself and so 00:02:04.06 --> 00:02:06. if you're going to do a focus lock and you say that's 00:02:06.37 --> 00:02:09. correct you can lock it in and that ass trick will 00:02:09.46 --> 00:02:11. show in the viewfinder we just talked about what we 00:02:11.39 --> 00:02:13. see in the viewfinder and that locks it in for just 00:02:13.8 --> 00:02:16. the moment and so we're going to lock it in right 00:02:16.49 --> 00:02:19. there and if I leave my finger halfway down on the 00:02:19.33 --> 00:02:24. shutter release and I just tapped down on it it keeps 00:02:24.07 --> 00:02:26. that locked in until I let it go to sleep 00:02:28.12 --> 00:02:31. and then it resets on itself so that is what's going 00:02:31.87 --> 00:02:34. on right there now the other way that this button 00:02:34.88 --> 00:02:37. can be used is in the flash exposure lock and what 00:02:37.77 --> 00:02:40. happens is if we pop up the flash let's go ahead and 00:02:40.16 --> 00:02:43. pop up the flash if we press this button what it does 00:02:43.63 --> 00:02:46. is that it actually fires the flash it's a little 00:02:46.07 --> 00:02:49. hard for you guys to see this but it's doing a test 00:02:49.84 --> 00:02:52. exposure with the flash and it's trying to measure 00:02:52.89 --> 00:02:56. out how far and how much reflectivity the subject 00:02:56.65 --> 00:03:00. is in front of us and we fire that it does a little 00:03:00.31 --> 00:03:02. flash exposure lock and then when we take a photo 00:03:03.08 --> 00:03:05. it will get a slightly better exposure because it 00:03:05.61 --> 00:03:08. knows more information about that subject it's not 00:03:08.55 --> 00:03:10. a feature. I think a lot of people are going to make 00:03:10.26 --> 00:03:13. use of on this camera but it is nice for somebody 00:03:13.27 --> 00:03:16. who does a lot of flash photography work to really 00:03:16.19 --> 00:03:18. nail the exposure correctly on the first shot of flash 00:03:20.12 --> 00:03:22. all right next up is the button on the far right hand 00:03:22.44 --> 00:03:24. side we kind of talked about this earlier it is an 00:03:24.64 --> 00:03:27. a f point selection where it kind of activates the 00:03:27.89 --> 00:03:31. mode it's essentially an on off switch but it is completely 00:03:31.36 --> 00:03:34. unnecessary because we do have the button on the top 00:03:34.08 --> 00:03:37. of the camera which duplicates that feature in its 00:03:37.22 --> 00:03:37. entirety 00:03:38.82 --> 00:03:41. on the back of the camera whether you have the six 00:03:41.05 --> 00:03:44. I or the six s there is going to be some direct controls 00:03:44.65 --> 00:03:47. for going in and changing a few of the most common 00:03:47.01 --> 00:03:49. features one of them is the white balance which is 00:03:49.72 --> 00:03:52. the color of the images that were shooting and so 00:03:52.72 --> 00:03:55. we'll have a number of different options in here so 00:03:55.23 --> 00:03:57. let's take a look at what white balances and so white 00:03:57.74 --> 00:04:00. balance is the color of light that we are recording now under a bright sunny day we're getting a very clean normalized light source that we would consider a nice white light but at different times of the day according with how much sun we see versus how much blue sky we see we're going to get a slightly different casting of color the most different type of lighting that most of us encounter is tungsten lighting which is what a lot of us have in our homes and so if you take photos in your home with your camera set to daylight everything's gonna look very orange that you take a photograph inside and so you would be advised to put in your camera into that tungsten lighting source so that it changes the color and gives you a more normalized color for that type of environment that you're in so beyond these natural and artificial light sources that we're likely to encounter there is also the option of doing a custom light source and this is where we would photograph something that does not have color to it so for instance a gray card or a white sheet of paper you could shoot those under the light source that you're going to be using and have the camera base it's coloring off of that I'm going to show you more about that in the menu setting that we actually make that selection with and finally there is auto white balance and this is where the camera takes a look at the highlight information in the image in tries to adjust the white balance for that particular scenario normally I'm a manual type guy I like doing things manually and adjusting them but this is one area where the camera does a fairly good job and I can recommend very easily just leaving your camera in auto white balance for most of the time from time to time you'll notice that the colors are not quite right and that's when you can jump in and make that adjustment yourself. And so let's. Go ahead and do a little quick live demo on this right here. So on the back of the camera, we're going to have our white balance button that we were going. We would press right there, and then what we're going to do is we're just going to simply navigate and we can either use the top dial because that's kind of good for almost everything, or we can use the back of the camera and select which one we want. And so, you know, in here in the studio, we have a lot of different types of lighting in here, and so I'm not sure what it is. So I'm going to just leave it on auto white balance right now because it seemed that's where it's been for our test shots so far and it seems to be doing a pretty good job. So that's, how you change it and when you would want to change. Next feature on the back of the camera is over on the right hand side auto focus but wait didn't we already talk about out of focus we did but we talked about where you focus this is how you focus there are three different types of focusing system so let me explain each of these three one shot is the standard mode when you press halfway down on the shutter release it will focus on a subject and it will stay locked in on that particular subject the other type of focusing is servo focusing where you are changing subjects where your subject is changing in its distance from you and you were trying to track that focus and your camera will do that pressed halfway down in the servo mode and then you can take as many pictures as you want by pressing the rest of the way down on the shutter now there is a third mode in between these two modes that automatically switches back and forth between these two and so I think this might be a good time for a little live demo so I'm going to have to grab another prop I want to set up for a prop for a subject that is near and something that is a bit further away and this cute little kodak camera is perfect for this and so I I'm going to do this in live you so I'm actually going to be faking things just a little bit folks but this is very much what it looks like in the viewfinder and so let's make sure that I have this in the correct amount so it always helps to have the camera in auto focus eye problem is I like to manually focus so I kind of I want to turn that off in some cases so let's make sure that I have this set one shot okay so and let me just move this back towards the center so you can see that I'm focusing on the camera in the foreground and when I press halfway down is when it focuses focus focus now if I said I want this off to the side I leave my finger halfway down when I pressed halfway down you see how it turns green well in the viewfinder it does something similar so it's locked on that subject that now as I move it over it doesn't change it holds that focus that I locked it and I could go the other way I can focus on the distance and hold that focus in and then come over here and take a photo and so that that's uh let's change this toe aperture priority let's make this very visible too look at the direction she said shallow depth of field I'm going to focus on the background locked in come over here take a photograph and the final photograph shows us the background is in focus in the foreground is out and so this is single and this is how most people are shooting because they're shooting subjects that are not moving the camera also has a continuous focusing system that we would normally when we're not in the live yuks would be changing it right here and we would go change it to servo because I'm demonstrating this in live you I need to do it in a different manner so ignore what I'm doing right now I'm just trying to show you the effectiveness and so now when I press down halfway on the shutter release it continually adjust and you'll notice that my finger is down on the front of the camera it's pressing down and we don't have that green it's a different it's a blue screen now and it's constantly trying to track our subject and so if I move closer to my subject or further away 00:10:00.492 --> 00:10:04. it's tracking that move in there going back and forth 00:10:05.1 --> 00:10:08. now this example that I show you in live you it's 00:10:08.39 --> 00:10:11. not as fast a zit would be when you were using it 00:10:11.45 --> 00:10:13. in the standard mode so I'm going to turn off live 00:10:13.51 --> 00:10:16. you here and so as you do it this direction it's going 00:10:16.97 --> 00:10:19. to be able to track that movement moving towards you 00:10:19.04 --> 00:10:22. and moving away from you much more quickly but that 00:10:22.43 --> 00:10:25. is the idea between servo and single now the auto 00:10:25.77 --> 00:10:31. mode I am not a fan of at all hi, because it switches 00:10:31.25 --> 00:10:33. on its own, and you never are one hundred percent 00:10:33.67 --> 00:10:36. certain what it's going to do, and it doesn't really 00:10:36.2 --> 00:10:39. indicate what it's doing when it's doing it on. So 00:10:39.91 --> 00:10:42. it's it's, not my favorite moment, it's something 00:10:42.21 --> 00:10:45. I dread. I avoid it. All cost for the most part, and 00:10:45.99 --> 00:10:49. so highly recommend one shot for most general photo 00:10:49.39 --> 00:10:52. taking for action photography. I go to a servo. 00:10:54.9 --> 00:10:58. Okay, so the next direct control we have on the back 00:10:58.43 --> 00:11:02. of the camera is picture styles now some of you who 00:11:02.5 --> 00:11:04. shot phil might remember the days that we had kodak 00:11:04.96 --> 00:11:08. film and fuji film an egg for film and each of these 00:11:08.28 --> 00:11:10. films had a slightly different look different color 00:11:10.9 --> 00:11:14. and contrast to them and we can emulate different 00:11:14.2 --> 00:11:17. types of looks with the picture styles in our cameras 00:11:18.3 --> 00:11:21. now the question is do you want to do this in camera 00:11:21.44 --> 00:11:24. or do you want to do this in your computer later on 00:11:24.42 --> 00:11:26. because if you're willing to take the time to do it 00:11:26.37 --> 00:11:31. in your computer you couldn't do it muchmore specifically 00:11:31.24 --> 00:11:34. than you can in camera there's a fair number of controls 00:11:34.22 --> 00:11:36. that we can have in the camera the other thing that 00:11:37.4 --> 00:11:40. needs to be noted here is if you are shooting raw 00:11:40.54 --> 00:11:44. this doesn't matter this is just what you see on the 00:11:44.05 --> 00:11:47. images off the back of the camera the final images 00:11:47.05 --> 00:11:49. you get in raw or the original information from the 00:11:49.99 --> 00:11:52. sensor itself and so this is mainly for people who 00:11:52.73 --> 00:11:55. shoot j pegs that just want them to look a little 00:11:55.17 --> 00:11:58. bit differently then the standard what it comes straight 00:11:58.63 --> 00:12:01. out of the camera so normally I'm going to recommend 00:12:01.54 --> 00:12:04. just simply leaving leon standard but there are some other ones like for instance landscape will give you a little bit more vivid colors but when you shoot portrait it's less vivid colors, because we don't want the skin to have too much color. You know, too many reds coming out of it's. Not gonna look good. Now. There is also a user to find one, two and three. So let me do a little menu demo here on the back of the camera and show you what's going on with this picture cities and so. What we do is we're going to press the picture settings down here at the bottom and then we can select anyone of the different we can use the top dial we can use the back buttons to dial through or find the ones that we want but one of the things you always need to keep aware of is the information down here at the bottom for instance this says info not say it's bring backup info deal detail set and said ok so if I wanted to choose portrait I would come over here and I would hit okay and it is now in the portrait mode and you'll see the little pea setting up there all right let's bring this whips wrong button here we go the other one is info detail set so for instance if we come down to number one and we go to info deed to detail set that's means hit the info button up here and we can go ahead and we can tweak any of these different settings so we have sharpness contrast saturation and color tone and so you might be saying well don't we want as much sharpness is possible well there is some unusual artifacts that you can create by having too much sharpness but you can adjust and say let's make this a couple steps on the more sharpened side we can take our contrast and we can have increased contrast or deaky decreased contrast now you khun do this in any of these different mode so you could take the landscape mode hit the info button dive into this and increase the saturation shin in this to make it even more vivid in colors now once again this is tweaking the care this is tweaking your photos this is photoshopped in the camera and this is not something that I think most people are gonna want to go through every time they take a photo is well do I want a little more contrast or a little less contrast and so for myself I would recommend just leaving this in standard it's a nice middle tone area if you found that the j pegs that you're getting out of the camera are not quite right you could go into the standard you could hit the info let's actually let's get thie bring this back up so everyone can see what's going on so we hit the button we go into info detail set we can go into the different parameters of standard and we could tweak it a little bit so all of the images are tweaked a little bit one way or the other with something that we're wanting to get but for the serious photographers we're going to want to shoot raw or you're just going to shoot standard as is and then you will adjust it later on in photoshopped light room or whatever program that you like to use and so standard is my preferred mode there? I prefer standard over auto because the difference is a standard. Does the same thing on all the shots. Auto will change it from one shot to the next, depending on the lighting and color conditions. And so I just like to get consistent results, and I don't want the camera changing things on me. So that's the picture styles. And once again, that on ly effects. J peg shooters, not the raw shooting.

Class Description

Join John Greengo for a complete introduction to the Canon® Rebel T6s/T6i in this Fast Start. 


You’ll learn why the Canon® Rebel T6s/T6i is the go-to camera for all levels of photographers and how you can get the most out all of its features and functions. John will teach you how to: 

  • Ensure you come away with a high resolution image every time you shoot 
  • Take advantage of the 19-point autofocus system 
  • Harness the power of the camera’s impressive frame rates 

The Canon® Rebel T6s/T6i Fast Start will prepare you to take advantage of each and every one of your camera’s buttons, menus, and features.

Reviews

Jen Hubbenator
 

Feeling pretty good about my T6s purchase! John's teaching style was fabulous, and I am left feeling pretty confident and a lot less overwhelmed!

rodrigo andrade
 

Great Class! John Greengo is an amazing teacher. I have a t6i for like 6 months and this class helped me a lot. Totally worth the money!

a Creativelive Student
 

As a student of John's for the past 2 years with the Fundamentals of Photography, the Nikon D3300 and D5500, I recently traded my Nikon D3300 for the Canon EOS Rebel T6i. As always, the training was superb, easy to understand, and I feel better in being able to use a digital camera. The reason for the switch in manufacturers was because of the ease of use of the Canon. I look forward to referring back to the lessons if I need a refresher course. Thank you, John. Your teaching is starting to click, finally.