Canon® T7i Fast Start

 

Canon® T7i Fast Start

 

Lesson Info

Shooting Menu Page 4-5

Long exposure noise reduction. So, when you take a long exposure, the camera, when this is turned on, is gonna wanna process that image and try to reduce the amount of noise. You'll get noise for two reason. One, if you use really high ISO's and the other reason, sometimes, when you do really long exposures. And so, I've wanted to see how much this helps out. Because, it's very annoying when you're out shooting a 30 second exposure, you have to wait another 30 seconds to shoot another photo while the camera is processing and you could be shooting a photo at that time. And so, I did my own little test with a 30 second exposure and just a single Watt bulb. And, I took a straight shot without any noise reduction and then I added noise reduction and I'm having a hard time seeing the difference, folks. I really don't see any significant difference at all, except that I just waited an extra 30 seconds for the camera to work. And so, whether you're waiting an extra 15 seconds or an extra 30 s...

econds, I just don't see it doing much good. It's just, kind of, eating up your time. And so, I would turn this off in most cases. If you wanna do your own testing, maybe it works better with the types of scenarios that you're shooting under, but I haven't seen it do much good. And so, I would just recommend turning it off. Now, high ISO's are gonna have their own noise reduction problem. And so, when you shoot at high ISO's you are gonna get noise and the camera, in this case, does do a much better job at reducing noise. So, let's take a look at shooting at a high ISO with some of the different options in this noise reduction setting. So, leaving it turned off you do get a fair bit of noise. And as that setting gets set higher and higher it's reducing the noise, but it's also losing some edge sharpness on the details. And so, there is a problem with using too much noise reduction. And so, I would be wary about going up to the high setting on this. Now there is also a multi-shot setting for scenarios where you're on a tripod shooting a static subject. The camera will shoot multiple exposures and use all of that information and access all of it to help reduce and figure out where the least amount of noise is. And so, that's a system that works very good but it's gonna be limited because you need to be on a tripod because it's shooting multiple shots and it can only be of a subject that is not moving. So even landscape photography, where trees are blowing in the wind, might be a bit of a problem on that. So, this is only gonna be done on JPEG images. And so, I would tend to leave it either on the low or the standard setting on that. And, there's many photographers who don't even want to use this because they're gonna use post-production software, which is gonna give them even more finite control over exactly how much each individual image has done on the noise reduction. And so, you could leave it totally off if you're willing to work it later yourself. But, at the most, I would probably leave it at standard. Dust on the sensor is a major problem, as I've mentioned before. If you have a lot of dust on your sensor, you're gonna get a lot of black spots on your photographs. One of the options, kind of a last resort option if you will, is to photograph a white sheet of paper so that the camera can map out where all the problems are. And then, using their software, from Canon, it will correct and clone over all of those spots with other areas and other pixels, and you'll get a nice clean image. Now, in order to do this, you need Canon's software. And so, you'll need their EOS Digital Solutions Disk and their Digital Photo Professional software in order to do this. And so, if you were out on safari, far away from any sort of cleaning supplies or camera shops, it is one option. Shoot a picture of a white piece of paper, and then deal with it later in the software. Moving on to page five, anti-flicker shooting. There is a number of different types of lights that flicker in order to provide brightness. And the problem with photography is is that you could be shooting photos at peak brightness or at the bottom of the brightness scale. A lot of times this will happen with fluorescent bulbs. And they'll cycle at 100 to 120 Hertz per second. And so, where is your photo gonna be? Is it gonna be at peak of the brightness or at the bottom of the brightness? Well, when you're shooting at six frames per second it just happens to be wherever it happens to be. And, what's gonna happen is that you're gonna end up with a collection of photographs that vary a little bit in the brightness levels even though you're camera may be in manual exposure, set to the same shutter speeds and apertures. And, even if you're camera is in one of the automated modes, this is happening to quick for you're camera to adjust for it through the standard exposure system. So there is an option for turning flicker reduction turned on. What it then does is it measures the light in it's up and down peaks of brightness. And what it does is it just slightly delays the shutter release so that the next picture is on the next level of peak brightness. So, not only are the photos consistent, they're all with the light at its peak brightness. Now, I found a good example of this in a tunnel here, bicycle tunnel here in Seattle, and it had this one light. And I took some photographs of it and you'll notice through images one, and two, three, and four, these varied in brightness a little bit. I'll go back through them. And, I set the exact same shutter speed, aperture, ISO setting, made no other changes in these images, and it's simply because the light was flickering while I took the images. I then turned flicker reduction on and you will see that the images are much much closer together. They're still not 100% perfect because it's possible that that light is doing an uneven flicker a little bit. But, it was much much easier and if you've ever shot a basketball game, for instance, under flickering lights, it is a royal pain in the you know what if you have to go through and adjust the brightness of all of your images, some of them up, some of them down, to get them all to equal brightness. And so, if you shoot any sort of indoor activity or anything under these flickering lights, trust me, it's gonna save you a lot of time and effort just leaving this enabled here. It's possible, the only downside is that rather than six frames per second you might get five and a half frames per second. But I think it's well worth it in most people's cases. So, I would leave this on enabled. The aspect ratio of the sensor is three by two and that's what you're gonna probably wanna shoot to get the most information off the sensor. If you do want to shoot in one of the other aspect ratios you can have that and it will show that to you in the LCD on the back of the camera or in the viewfinder itself. The Live View button on the camera will kick the camera into Live View so that you can see what's going on on the back of the camera. Some people bump that button accidentally and they don't like using the camera in Live View. So if you just kind of want to turn that button off this allows you to disable that button completely. Alright. So now, if you want, the Live View mode will allow you to get into some different menu options. And so, you won't see this unless you press Live View and then press the menu button. And so, let me show you on my camera, real quickly. I think that this is just kind of interesting. So, when I hit the menu button and I go to page five, what is the top item in the list? It says, anti-flicker shooting. Okay? Let's put the camera in Live View and press the menu button. And now, AF method is the top item in the Live View menu. And so, you can see the menu has changed a little bit simply because our camera is in the Live View mode. And so, it's going to be very important here and in the movie mode, coming up next. Okay, so back on the Keynote. So, when you are in Live View, how do you want your camera to focus? And so, as you saw, the camera does a very good job in face tracking if there is a person or subject to track on. But I like the 1-point where you can be very specific. Smooth zone is also a very easy one to work with. The Touch Shutter allows you to shoot photos at touching the shutter on the back of the camera. Some people prefer to just use the touch for focusing. Some people like to use it for shooting photos. How long do you want your camera to stay on? Eight seconds is a normal time. Longer or shorter according to your needs. You can turn on a grid display in the LCD. These can be nice for composition, or architectural work, or framing work. Normally, I like to leave that turned off unless I specifically need it.

Class Description

We know what it’s like to dive right into taking pictures with your new camera. But trying to understand the manual can be a frustrating experience. Get the most out of your new Canon T7i with this complete step-by-step walkthrough of the camera’s features.

Join expert photographer John Greengo for a fast-track introduction, and unlock your camera’s full potential. In this Fast Start class, you’ll learn:

  • Learn about the best settings for the new 45-point AF system including several customization options
  • Expanded new video options including "Time Lapse" and "Movie Digital Image Stabilization"
  • 15 custom setting options for personalizing your camera

John is a CreativeLive veteran instructor and an experienced photographer. He has extensive experience teaching the technical minutiae that makes any camera an effective tool: aperture, ISO, the Rule of Thirds, and the kinds of lenses you’ll need to suit your camera body. This Fast Start includes a complete breakdown of your camera’s exposure, focus, metering, video and more. John will also explain how to customize the Canon T7i settings to work for your style of photography.